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So, my dad changed the bulbs on the Citroën today. He had a screw left over afterwards, obviously 
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Apr 16, 2013 18:49
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| # ? May 28, 2024 15:23 |
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MATLAB 1988 posted:I found that clean Mercedes W124 coupe I've been looking for, just not in the right place... Speedway Auto Salvage? Did you see if there is still a 240d there? One that looks like it's got a new injection pump on it.
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Apr 16, 2013 18:55
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trouser chili posted:Speedway Auto Salvage? Did you see if there is still a 240d there? One that looks like it's got a new injection pump on it. Yeah, and there aren't any W123's there now unfortunately. One of the owners said they'd try to get another one. Someone also pulled the M110 engine from the 70's 280se in that yard, I'm thinking it'll end up on eBay. All the parts shared with SL's were near mint on that car and vanished pretty quickly. That stuff sells for prices like $250 for a cluster, $100 for a steering wheel and $150 for a becker mexico.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Becker-Mexi...17d2530&vxp=mtr
MATLAB 1988 fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 16, 2013 19:47
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MATLAB 1988 posted:Yeah, and there aren't any W123's there now unfortunately. One of the owners said they'd try to get another one. drat, I've got a small shopping list of stuff. Need to hit Pick N' Pull and Riverside maybe. I've had good Mercedes luck at Taylors on St. Chuck too. In the meantime, I've ordered basically everything to redo the front brakes on the 240d. New discs, calipers, pads, bearings, hoses, you name it. Also, it's getting upgraded to W126 brakes just cause. Been down that road with the vintage Beckers. My W114 Europa Stereo mostly just doesn't work, so I thought no biggie I'll just pop on ebay and OH MY GOD ARE THESE PEOPLE SERIOUS? So now the unit is on it's way to Becker Autosound for a refurb and installation of a female 3.5mm TRS in the faceplate. trouser chili fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 16, 2013 20:04
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Nothing. Mornings are starting to get cool, plus I have a decent number of cuts on my hands that have been getting infected. They need some time to heal. There's more appointments too, and I think I'm pulling the TC on the explorer on Friday with help from my father in law. Really I don't directly need help it's just it's too hard to do things like that and supervise my son properly at the same time.
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Apr 16, 2013 22:51
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Changed out some wheel studs: Also repaired my reversing camera, rerouted antenna cables, repaired damage to the mounts for the rear spoiler, fitted new headlights and tail lights, cleaned out all door seals (nasty) and wire wheeled/painted a large number of rusty brackets and fastners. All in all, a productive day  . Just 3 more sets of wheel studs to change. Grrr.
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Apr 17, 2013 19:48
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Ended up finishing washing the Niva along with laying down the first coat of wax. It no longer has the colour of dust. Also put the driving lights on it but didn't connect them. Went through and collected up as many parts of the horn button as I could. I came up pretty short. Missing a weird contact thing, a couple of springs and possibly ball bearings and machine screws.
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Apr 17, 2013 21:29
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Fucknag posted:I think the Miata thing is probably due to the MZR family being designed primarily for FWD applications, so that spot would be relatively easy to get to. Do those motors use a cartridge filter like the 2.3 does? No, it so horrifically doesn't. There is about a 8 inch wide gap between the subframes where you can get your hand in and twist it off, where it proceeds to evacuate it's fluids onto the subframe, which then of course runs the entire length of the subframe. It's sadistic and you really need to homebrew your own tricks to make it less messy. Here I took pictures because I love you guys; Attack it from the driver's side -  Find a good spot where you can leverage your forearm and that's about it through this little entrance -  Cry. A lot. - 
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Apr 17, 2013 22:19
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Could be worse. The oil filter on my Focus's Zetec is horizontally mounted and is up above the passenger-side half shaft. You're pretty much guaranteed to get oil on something, its just a question of how good are you at getting it off the block and upright before the filter spews its contents everywhere.
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Apr 17, 2013 23:12
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I finally got around to bolting my amp down after years of sliding around loose. It looks a lot nicer now. I also reattached that dangling loom above the goomba after this pic. Edit: Checked the air in my spare tire while I was digging around in the trunk. 10 psi out of the recommended 60. Yikes. I filled that then checked my girlfriends spare. 30 of 60. We're drat lucky we haven't had any flats lately. The moral of the story is check your spare regularly. Those things don't stay inflated forever. Grumbletron 4000 fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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Apr 18, 2013 01:40
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What am I about to do - I did buy a welder today - sooooooooo like so many things. Like mount the spare tire properly in the bed. Probably add some bitchin' tow hooks. Maybe even lighting on the side.
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Apr 18, 2013 02:10
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:Edit: Checked the air in my spare tire while I was digging around in the trunk. 10 psi out of the recommended 60. Yikes. I filled that then checked my girlfriends spare. 30 of 60. We're drat lucky we haven't had any flats lately. The moral of the story is check your spare regularly. Those things don't stay inflated forever. What the hell kind of tyres take 60 psi? I overinflate to 45 myself and the sidewall says not to do anything above 50.
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Apr 18, 2013 04:26
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~Coxy posted:What the hell kind of tyres take 60 psi? They arent full size spares. They're the little space saver "donut" spares most cars have under the trunk floor. Both my GTP and the girlfriends Focus called for 60 psi right on the sidewall. Mine has never been used. Hers appears to have been used way too long at low pressure. The tread is poo poo and the sidewall is all scuffed up. Either way I feel a bit safer knowing they are both inflated properly now.
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Apr 18, 2013 04:36
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Bought a knockoff Mugen lip today for $50 (had a $40 paypal balance, said gently caress it). I'm just going to plasti-dip it flat black since it's going to get scraped up anyway and I've got a can left from doing my wheels. 
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Apr 18, 2013 05:56
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Cleaned and cleaned some more. Degreased. Attempted to figure out what the mysterious vacuum devices are (99% sure they're EGR). Failed to start the quad. Its carburettor is dumping fuel everywhere. Damnit.
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Apr 18, 2013 07:29
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KozmoNaut posted:So, my dad changed the bulbs on the Citroën today. My V35 Skyline is the same way. I still blame the French though, pretty sure none of the pre-Renault models required anything like that
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Apr 18, 2013 08:01
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We use dealer license plate place holders as a slide. I can only image the pain of not having a proper lift.
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Apr 19, 2013 01:54
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Finally found some reasonably-priced wheels for the E55. They're replicas, but for $120 I'm not complaining. The front tires are even at about half tread. 19x8.5 ET35, 19x9.5, but they're both ET 35. I think I'm going to need some 5mm spacers to clear the brakes. Gonna refinish them gold or bronze, I think. Haven't decided. 
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Apr 19, 2013 03:18
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Bought a pile of parts to fix up some post trip damage... New front axle shaft, new RH front diff seal, new upper radiator hose, 4x T-bolt camps for radiator hoses, loctite to repair all my bilstiens, new thermostat and gasket, new coolant, new front diff oil etc etc etc. Now im just waiting for the bastard to cool off before I can do any work on it. I dont particuarly enjoy dumping hot coolant or diff oil on my face! 
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Apr 19, 2013 05:10
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wallaka posted:The front tires are even at about half tread. Rear tyres look pretty thin though. 
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Apr 19, 2013 11:44
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Not much. Sprayed inox on some bolts on the Niva. Also shifted it because I've been slack and still haven't attacked the footwell with a hair dryer. Put together the horn button out of the parts I found. I need to get more parts. No way it'll work right with what I got. Pumped up a tyre on the Fairlane. My son left some interior lights on in it a couple of times today so the battery is probably below cranking. Started and failed at removing the Explorer's TC because I need a triplesquare socket. Also pumped up one of its tyres. Pumped up three of the tyres on my in-laws Fairmont. They were waaay down. Couldn't do the 4th. The cap was jammed solid. Sent my father in law to the tyre place to get them to do it because I didn't want to be responsible for accidentally ripping a tyre valve stem off. Also tried reseating one of the transmission position sensor plugs. Their car is reading all sorts of weird codes.
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Apr 19, 2013 14:10
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ARP extended studs, 12mm hubcentric spacers and Kics R26 lugnuts installed.
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Apr 19, 2013 20:21
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Paul Boz_ posted:Bought a knockoff Mugen lip today for $50 (had a $40 paypal balance, said gently caress it). I'm just going to plasti-dip it flat black since it's going to get scraped up anyway and I've got a can left from doing my wheels. I feel like there are no good AP1 lips available so I am going to have to spend money getting a new bumper + lip just to have something, and then I need it painted too  e: how do you like your rad cooling plate thing? I am considering getting one since they are not really that expensive. I feel like I should get a better radio first though..
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Apr 19, 2013 22:53
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_adam posted:ARP extended studs, 12mm hubcentric spacers and Kics R26 lugnuts installed. Those nuts are pretty. Me, not a whole lot. It's still kind of cold out and I'm waiting for the sun to come up enough to hit the ground in the yard. It's not for me. I grew up in the mountains. Cold doesn't bother me. It's just my kid/s will come out if I go out. I still have to attack the drivers footwell in the Niva with a hairdryer. I finally dug it out this morning. Suppose I could to a tentative first attempt at loosening the EGR nuts on the exhaust manifold.
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Apr 19, 2013 22:54
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Nodoze posted:I feel like there are no good AP1 lips available so I am going to have to spend money getting a new bumper + lip just to have something, and then I need it painted too A lot of the AP1 guys on s2ki say that :/. I don't know how you feel about the Mugen style lip like the one I bought but that one is definitely installable on an AP1 with a very marginal amount of work.  I'd say that the radiator plate is aesthetic as gently caress but doubt that it does anything functional. I only bought it because it was a cost-effective way to significantly improve my engine bay . On a side note I love how much room there is to clean! I also painted the radiator stays gold to match the AP2 valve cover. 
Paul Boz_ fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Apr 20, 2013 |
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Apr 20, 2013 02:08
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Paul Boz_ posted:A lot of the AP1 guys on s2ki say that :/. I don't know how you feel about the Mugen style lip like the one I bought but that one is definitely installable on an AP1 with a very marginal amount of work. I really like the CR lip but then I need a CR bumper
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Apr 20, 2013 06:14
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Pretty sure you can install a CR lip on any AP2 bumper so shouldn't be too tough if you have the cash to get a new bumper. Maybe the APR fiberglass bumper-lip one piece? It's the lip I've got on my car now but it fits like poo poo (poor counterfeit from eBay).  However, hardware not withstanding you can get AP2 bumpers at the dealership for under $350 and according to one of the mods at s2ki they come painted in your body color. CR bumpers are cheaper elsewhere (like hardtopguy) but CR bumpers only come in three colors. Either way the CR lip is $550 with hardware and gently caress that. Lips are too volatile to spend that much money on. I'd get a nice exhaust with that much cash. http://www.hardtopguy.com/store/home.php?cat=193
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Apr 20, 2013 06:38
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Summer tires on and aired up, I forgot how squiggily winter tires are by comparison. It's a whole new car! Also replaced one of my rear rotors that I suspected was out of round, and it was. Had to sand the pads a bit as they were a bit mangled, and they're working fine now. No more squeak, squeak, squeak as the rotor was skimming the pad in certain points.
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Apr 20, 2013 19:09
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wallaka posted:Finally found some reasonably-priced wheels for the E55. They're replicas, but for $120 I'm not complaining. The front tires are even at about half tread. 19x8.5 ET35, 19x9.5, but they're both ET 35. I think I'm going to need some 5mm spacers to clear the brakes. drat, that's a good price. What is the bolt pattern for these?
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Apr 20, 2013 20:47
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Got my replacement lower control arm bushings for my Integra from RockAuto today. Opened the box to find they actually include replacement bolts as well. This is not mentioned anywhere on RockAuto or KYB's site. Why am I not excited? Well, I have already purchased two non-returnable bolts from Honda at 14 dollars a whack. I tried finding cheaper replacements at Fastenal and the like and no one carries Grade 8 metric bolts. So I went to Honda just to be sure I was getting the right stuff when all along I could have had EVERYTHING I needed for $23 shipped. My life will never not be a farce.
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Apr 20, 2013 20:54
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XCPuff posted:drat, that's a good price. What is the bolt pattern for these? They're 5x112. Of course they gotta be different than everybody else.
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Apr 20, 2013 21:02
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:Got my replacement lower control arm bushings for my Integra from RockAuto today. Opened the box to find they actually include replacement bolts as well. This is not mentioned anywhere on RockAuto or KYB's site. Why am I not excited? Well, I have already purchased two non-returnable bolts from Honda at 14 dollars a whack. I tried finding cheaper replacements at Fastenal and the like and no one carries Grade 8 metric bolts. So I went to Honda just to be sure I was getting the right stuff when all along I could have had EVERYTHING I needed for $23 shipped. There's no such thing as grade 8 metric, that's why  ISO Property classes: 4.8: basically the equivalent of imperial threaded non graded hardware, maybe grade 2 or 3. Not to be used for anything important. 8.8: roughly equivalent to SAE grade 5. 10.9: roughly equivalent to SAE grade 8. 12.9: hella hard. Sometimes considered equivalent to SAE grade 8. Commonly used in driveline and suspension components. Using hardware graded lower than OEM is scary-common among auto enthusiasts, mostly because no one understands the differences between ISO Property Class graded bolts and SAE graded bolts. People thinking 8.8s are equivalent to a grade 8 is very common, and it scares the hell out of me because a lot of those bolts are very important. I've had people tell me I should be fine replacing a track bar bolt (factory M10x1.5 ISO PC 12.9) with 8.8 hardware, which is quite literally advise that can kill.
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Apr 20, 2013 21:14
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Well he said he didn't have 10.9 either so there Mr. Pedantry  edit: and the bolts included with the bushings say 10.9 as well
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Apr 20, 2013 21:30
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Sorry, I get worked up about that because I see so many people put weaker bolts in their suspensions than they should, and the potential failures aren't really pleasant. 10.9's fine, given the fact that they came with an OEM-equivalent replacement part. (you ever see what happens when someone's track bar/panhard rod bolt breaks? They lose the ability to steer their vehicle rather abruptly and completely unexpectedly. I've seen some really ugly accidents result from that kind of a failure, so it really bugs me when I see people put 8.8s in instead of a grade 8 or ISO PC 10/12.9.)
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Apr 20, 2013 21:47
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Oh yeah, that's why I ultimately bought the Honda bolts. I'm not about to jeopardize my safety over a few dollars. The very fact that KYB includes appropriate bolts (and says nothing about them) is a real kick in the teeth though.
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Apr 21, 2013 00:34
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kastein posted:There's no such thing as grade 8 metric, that's why Interestingly, sometimes BMW allows the use of 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9 bolts. The old front subframe bolts on my M3 were 8.8, the new ones are 10.9. Of course the torque specs are always adjusted depending on the class. What gets confusing is ISO nuts are commonly class 5,8,12 etc.
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Apr 21, 2013 01:27
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I think that's more confusing because of what the numbers actually mean. For example: ISO PC 10.9 = 1GPa ultimate strength (10 * 100MPa) and 900MPa yield strength (ultimate strength * 0.9) An 8.8 has 800MPa ultimate strength (8 * 100MPa) and 640MPa yield strength (ultimate strength * 0.8). This also handily explains why the whole "you should use grade 5 bolts because they stretch instead of breaking!" argument is wrong - an 8.8/g5 fastener has an ultimate strength of 800MPa, which is 100MPa below where a 10.9/g8 fastener even starts to yield. So sure, it'll bend/stretch instead of breaking, but it'll still reach total failure point well before the harder fastener even starts to yield. Nuts don't really have a "yield", if the threads start yielding you've already gone way too far. So they just have the first spec, the ultimate strength. e: note - I don't know the part about nuts for a fact, just drawing my own conclusions, but I think it makes sense. Especially given that I've always seen ISO 10 nuts used with 10.9 hardware, 12s used with 12.9, 8s with 8.8 etc. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Apr 21, 2013 |
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Apr 21, 2013 02:02
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Actually, nuts are sometimes yielded. Softer nuts are used to cause yielding on the first thread so threads further on can share the load. Otherwise you only load the first thread on the nut. A grade 8 nut is softer than a grade 8 bolt.
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Apr 21, 2013 02:14
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Good to know. This is why I'm an EE not an ME, guys
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Apr 21, 2013 02:30
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Apolgies for horrible night/flash picture, sometimes things just dont go as smoothly as planned and take longer than expected Before!  After! (added a 3" turbo snout and metal intake pipe to replace the factory rubber thing, and an air filter cover because apparently an exposed, oil-free filter is a SERIOUS DANGER worth a $400 fine. not pictured: air diversion panel on top of the radiator, oil change and a magnetic sump plug.) 
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Apr 21, 2013 12:01
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