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Stock twin turbo 13b on my FD ate it around 89k km (55,300 miles, roughly)
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Apr 25, 2013 08:16
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clutchpuck posted:My '83 GSL had 180k when I sold it running. My '84 GSL-SE had 225k mi before it started mixing its oil and coolant. You were running a glycol injection rig, eh?
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Apr 25, 2013 09:02
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I don't even know what that is. I bought it with brown-looking coolant and paid almost nothing because of it, assuming it was a time bomb. Gave me some fun miles before I got to have fun figuring out how to swap a S4 13b into a S3.
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Apr 25, 2013 20:51
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clutchpuck posted:I don't even know what that is. I bought it with brown-looking coolant and paid almost nothing because of it, assuming it was a time bomb. Gave me some fun miles before I got to have fun figuring out how to swap a S4 13b into a S3. It's a joke about RX7s being oil-burners (by design, to preserve the apex seals), getting ethylene glycol in the oil.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:09
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EightBit posted:It's a joke about RX7s being oil-burners (by design, to preserve the apex seals), getting ethylene glycol in the oil. Glad you got it.
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Apr 25, 2013 22:53
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clutchpuck posted:I don't even know what that is. I bought it with brown-looking coolant and paid almost nothing because of it, assuming it was a time bomb. Gave me some fun miles before I got to have fun figuring out how to swap a S4 13b into a S3. It's possible this is evans coolant. http://www.evanscooling.com/products/coolants/ Was it clear or milky?
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Apr 26, 2013 00:00
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parid posted:It's possible this is evans coolant. http://www.evanscooling.com/products/coolants/ It's been like 10 years but I remember seeing little globs of oil floating in foamy brown coolant when I popped the radiator cap. It was a horror show.
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Apr 26, 2013 17:56
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If I ever buy a brand new car, first thing I'm going to do is take off all the wheels and remove all the disk brake retaining screws and throw them out. The ABS on the S5 TII has been acting up at autocross lately. I or my co-driver will come in after a run and find that the ABS light is on. Turning off and on the car makes it go off until it glitches again. Once it went into "ice mode" and I blew a tight corner pretty bad. I went to an empty parking lot with my street tires on, and tried triggering a failure, but couldn't. So, I went to go check and clean the sensors on each corner. Of course, the rear disks still have the assemble retaining screws. For some reason there is two per side. Turns out the screws have fused with the hubs because the head smapped off on the first one when trying to use a screw extractor. I also ruined the jaws of one of my vice grips on that screw. The screw extractor broke on the second screw, so I just drilled out the remaining three. The sensors weren't terribly dirty, but they did need a cleaning. They did gap within spec (0.556 - 0.8mm depending on the corner, spec is 0.4 - 1.0mm), but the right side sensors were at a slight angle compared to the tone rings, and the rear tone rings have a nice coat of surface rust. Hopefully the glitches disappear, I've got another event this Sunday where I'll find out. Tonight I'm putting on the summer tires since its been 50-60 F every day except for when its snowed, and the snow days have been tapering off lately. I'm also going to try testing the oil level sensor to see if it might be related to the warning buzzer going off in high G right hand turns in autocross. I've at least been able to reproduce that in an empty parking lot, but the low oil light doesn't go on (lights up when starting the car, so I'm not sure if the warning light cluster is glitching, or the buzzer is something else).
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Apr 26, 2013 18:27
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I was very close to buying a 2005 shinka with 70k miles on it for a good price but I just ran across a pair of rx7's with 130 and 120k miles on them both with engine rebuilds within 10k miles for almost the same price. Buy the shinka and have one cool car or do I buy 2 cars and do something really silly with one/have a backup around?
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Apr 26, 2013 18:55
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DD one and track the other one
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Apr 26, 2013 19:48
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Eh, I'd say the Shinka, but maybe that's because I want one to replace the old rusted over crap I'm dealing with on my current RX7. Getting the two 7s probably means months of tearing them apart and getting everything right. I dunno, what do you really want to do with this purchase? Track? Weekend driving?
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Apr 26, 2013 21:45
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Brigdh posted:Eh, I'd say the Shinka, but maybe that's because I want one to replace the old rusted over crap I'm dealing with on my current RX7. Getting the two 7s probably means months of tearing them apart and getting everything right. I dunno, what do you really want to do with this purchase? Track? Weekend driving? I wanted a second car to be an occasional commuter and weekends fun car. Getting 2 more cars wasn't really thought about, but it's an interesting possibility.
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Apr 26, 2013 22:24
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:I wanted a second car to be an occasional commuter and weekends fun car. Getting 2 more cars wasn't really thought about, but it's an interesting possibility. I'd still recommend the 2005 then. I'd say you'd rather be driving the car than working on it, and a little bit of a performance hit probably isn't going to ruin the deal for you. You'll save time, headaches, and money by going with the newer vehicle. Of course, if there is some other factor that I'm not considering (like looks are the primary concern, and you like the RX7 look better), then feel free to disagree. Its your money.
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Apr 26, 2013 23:35
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Rotor screws can never resist the power of the air hammer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxQk7Pz_vfc He demonstrates the air hammer at about 3:30 into the video.
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Apr 27, 2013 12:49
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PBCrunch posted:Rotor screws can never resist the power of the air hammer. That sort of requires a (decent) air compressor, which I sadly do not have. The one car garage I'm renting only has a single 120v outlet, and pretty much no free floor space after I filled it with a trailer, some work benches, storage racks, and a two post lift. I did confirm that the oil level sensor is the cause for the warning buzzer. I unplugged the sensor, then grounded it out and started the car. The buzzer was sounding even before the car started, but the low oil light was not on. So the wiring is likely screwed up in the warning cluster which is no real surprise. I also left the sensor unplugged and not grounded, and took the car for a test drive in an empty parking lot near by and was unable to trigger the buzzer. Looks like I'm going to have to prioritize a Banzai oil pan brace and a Racing Beat baffle plate.
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Apr 27, 2013 20:03
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Oh cool, I ran into this problem the other day. They were hex cap screws instead of phillips. I got the replacements and I hope they're bett- oh   
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Apr 28, 2013 00:17
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rcman50166 posted:Oh cool, I ran into this problem the other day. They were hex cap screws instead of phillips. I got the replacements and I hope they're bett- oh Seriously? They actually sell replacement ones in parts stores? Is it supposed to be a prank gift like cross drilled brake lines?
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Apr 28, 2013 02:04
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rcman50166 posted:Oh cool, I ran into this problem the other day. They were hex cap screws instead of phillips. I got the replacements and I hope they're bett- oh Got a buddy that's an rear end in a top hat? Offer to help with his brakes and put those back in and wait for them to rust on 
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Apr 28, 2013 03:58
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Brigdh posted:The ABS on the S5 TII has been acting up at autocross lately. I or my co-driver will come in after a run and find that the ABS light is on. Turning off and on the car makes it go off until it glitches again. Once it went into "ice mode" and I blew a tight corner pretty bad. The light is still showing up, and I'm even more puzzled now. The first half of the course was very fast and flowed well, so it needed minimal braking (quick taps to shave a bit of speed for some minor setup) and I had some chances to quickly glance at the warning lights. The light came on every time in that area, even though I'm rather sure I never actual engaged the ABS. Gonna try hunting down the electrical connections between the sensors and the wiring harness and see if those need cleaning. I might also check the pump wiring according to the FSM procedures. I'm wondering if borrowing the ABS tester tool (assuming one of the two local dealerships has one) will help at all. If anyone has any bright ideas (besides remove and bypass the system), I'd be interested to hear them. Edit: dammit, now I feel stupid. On a hunch, I double checked the diameter of my stock RS3s (205/55/16) vs my R1-S race tires (225/50/16), and the race tires are .4" shorter in overall diameter. That most likely accounts for whatever glitchy data the computer is seeing and causing the light to trigger. I'll have to keep this in mind when I go to wider tires. Brigdh fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Apr 29, 2013 |
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Apr 29, 2013 20:45
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This morning, my TII's clutch felt a step softer than usual, and maybe engaging lower than it used to. It seemed to firm up a bit a few minutes into the drive. My brake felt fine -- is it a cable clutch? Hydraulic clutch on a separate circuit? I'd be more concerned, but the way it was, it was actually much easier to use. The only situational difference I can think of is that I usually drive the car at night, after the car has had a day's hot/cold cycle.
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May 3, 2013 15:35
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kimbo305 posted:This morning, my TII's clutch felt a step softer than usual, and maybe engaging lower than it used to. It seemed to firm up a bit a few minutes into the drive. My brake felt fine -- is it a cable clutch? Hydraulic clutch on a separate circuit? It's hydraulic with its own reservoir. Check to see if your slave cylinder is leaking (it's bolted onto the bellhousing on the driver's side, right after the engine ends and the transmission begins). If it or its surroundings aren't visibly wet, then follow the hose up to the master cylinder and do the same thing, as well as making sure the fluid level is correct and not any horrible color. Basically, I had a similar symptom a few months back, and it turned out my slave cylinder had actually split open at the lip where the rubber boot attaches. I replaced both cylinders just to be safe; it's a relatively easy procedure, except for removing and installing the master through the firewall in the driver's side footwell.
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May 3, 2013 17:17
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kimbo305 posted:This morning, my TII's clutch felt a step softer than usual, and maybe engaging lower than it used to. It seemed to firm up a bit a few minutes into the drive. My brake felt fine -- is it a cable clutch? Hydraulic clutch on a separate circuit? I haven't noticed this. Its not a cable clutch. Not sure what you mean by the clutch is on a separate circuit. The clutch pedal has a rod that goes through the firewall to the clutch master cylinder. The master outlet follows the firewall though a half hardline half rubber hose to the transmission then drops down to the slave. The only two things I can think of are some kind of fluid temp thing like you mentioned, or the fluid hasn't been flushed in a while and is maybe on its way out.
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May 3, 2013 17:20
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Gambled and drove 90mi from home. After highway stretches with no shifting, the clutch is really low and the syncros are balking a lot. If I pump up the clutch a few times, seems to help. Using the clutch seems to help. Gonna gamble again and try to drive it home  I never saw any fluid below, and couldn't spot anything behind the engine. e: inoperative clutch trip report: upon starting out for home, I knew I was screwed. Clutch pedal was very light. It was starting to sink to the floor on its own, despite pump-up attempts. The time and the route were such that I managed to get onto the interstate with only a few stops. And multiple embarassing stalls at an uphill light in the middle of some New England liberal arts college, where I could only get the shifter into 4th. Miraculously, traffic was fine and I drove it for the next 1.5hrs in 4th all the way to my trusted shop with only 2 more shifts -- I got off the final highway leg, revmatched into 3rd, revmatched into 2nd, and rolled through the last few green lights. Good thing the shop is a lightly settled industrial area. Muffinpox gave me a ride 30min back into town. I never once saw any fluid on the ground. e: 4k on the highway is just so smooth. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 06:16 on May 6, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 18:37
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So I went ahead and got my dream car. Ten years in the hunt of owning one. Bought it this morning, reg, tags and insurance done, some good miles in it already. '87 FC TII. 74xxx Seller/rebuilder's awesome photoshoot   
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May 11, 2013 20:33
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God  that thing is clean. Please keep it as stock as possible.
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May 12, 2013 00:28
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It looks cooler with the black bump strips than with body-color .
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May 12, 2013 12:06
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re: slumped clutch -- it was the slave cylinder. No surprises. The shop didn't recommend that I replace the MC while I was in there. Since it was in the shop already, I gave them that Momo wheel someone in here was selling to throw on: Even though it's kinda ugly, it makes a huge difference, which surprised me. The smaller diameter makes the car feel more responsive. The steering is still pretty light.
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May 13, 2013 00:14
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kimbo305 posted:re: slumped clutch -- it was the slave cylinder. No surprises. The shop didn't recommend that I replace the MC while I was in there. Since it was in the shop already, I gave them that Momo wheel someone in here was selling to throw on: Wheel looks nice. Glad you got the clutch thing figured out. My tach started acting up again. A while ago, it would sort of "lose signal" for a half second and drop to 0, or not display anything unless the car was warmed up. Then the problem went away. Yesterday after autocrossing when I went to go home, the tach decided it wanted to stay at 0, for the entire hour trip home. I guess I go digging into the wiring again this week
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May 13, 2013 00:36
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FC clutch hydraulics are super cheap on rock auto if you want to replace more later.
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May 13, 2013 01:42
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Brigdh posted:My tach started acting up again. A while ago, it would sort of "lose signal" for a half second and drop to 0, or not display anything unless the car was warmed up. Then the problem went away. Yesterday after autocrossing when I went to go home, the tach decided it wanted to stay at 0, for the entire hour trip home. I guess I go digging into the wiring again this week Looked at the tach issue tonight, and I'm puzzled. I started up the car, since its been sitting for around 48 hours and I want to make sure it still exhibits the problem. Sure enough, tach still reads 0. So I pull the codes from the ECU to see if maybe there is anything its detected, but decided not to trigger a CEL for. Nada. So, I figure there's three things I need to check. The trailing coil (generates the tach signal), the tach itself, or the wiring in-between. Apparently a quick check to eliminate the coil is to jump the "diagnostic" bullet connectors of the leading and trailing coils together so that the leading coil becomes the tach source. I start up the car again, and the tach works. Now that part that has me puzzled is the following. To double check things, I removed the jumper wire, and started the car again. I expected the tach to be dead, thus confirming the trailing coil was bad, but it continued to work. I turned the car off, let it sit a minute, and started it again. Tach continues to work. So, I dunno, did I jump start the trailing coil, like how you jump start a car battery?
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May 14, 2013 03:44
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Who knows with the electrics on these cars (FBs and FCs, dunno about FDs). About a month after I bought mine, my headlights would sometimes get stuck popped-up. I thought it might have been one of the fusible links, but I never did anything about it, and the problem went away and never came back. I actually did have my tach die on me once, too, but that turned out to be the trailing ignitor frying itself, so I had actually driven home on one rotor. Now I have DLIDFS.
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May 14, 2013 06:48
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FDs are just as bad, maybe even worse.
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May 15, 2013 01:46
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S5 FC is by far the worse.
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May 15, 2013 04:47
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the spyder posted:S5 FC is by far the worse. Ugh, Thanks
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May 15, 2013 04:49
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Did a removal, upgrade, reinstall in 15 hours on Saturday. My body is still sore.    Rob @ Pineapple and a few friends.  And then at 1am on the way home this POS lost a primary fuel injector. We thought it might be the pump, so we changed it on the side of the highway with a spare FD pump I had just been given by Rob. No luck. Limped it home on one rotor and chased down the fuel injector the next morning. 65k and just cleaned. No idea what killed it. 
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May 15, 2013 04:53
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the spyder posted:S5 FC is by far the worse. I want to go "NO IT ISN'T" but mine already proves your experience accurate. - tach that doesn't come on til several minutes into the drive sometimes - dead boost gauge - broken wiper speed dial - mystery moisture-related alarm sounding A (when I bought the car) - mystery moisture-related alarm sounding B
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May 15, 2013 04:54
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kimbo305 posted:I want to go "NO IT ISN'T" but mine already proves your experience accurate. Tach - Could be that the trailing plugs are somewhat fouled and need a few minutes of running to unfoul. If the plugs don't fire, the tach signal isn't generated. Boost gauge - Yeah, mine works, but not all the time. Supposedly the MAP sensors are kinda crappy. Doesn't help that there are 4 versions of it. Single speed wipers - What loving bright idea Mazda, using unsealed relays in an automotive environment. You can get a rebuilt switch for $50-$75, but you are just about guaranteed to break some of the plastic in the dash. No idea what the alarm thing is. Good luck with that 
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May 15, 2013 05:04
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kimbo305 posted:re: slumped clutch -- it was the slave cylinder. No surprises. The shop didn't recommend that I replace the MC while I was in there. Replace it. They are built practically the same, and have the same fluid running through them. The chances of it failing soon are pretty high. Also learn to drive without a clutch in case this happens again.
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May 15, 2013 05:19
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mafoose posted:Also learn to drive without a clutch in case this happens again. I had to when it it busted the first time. See a few posts previous. I asked the shop that and trusted their assessment of the MC. One of the techs races an FC, so I'm ok with their call. Also I rarely keep cars long enough for that kind of preventative maintenance to really shine through.
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May 15, 2013 06:05
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MiniFoo posted:Who knows with the electrics on these cars (FBs and FCs, dunno about FDs). About a month after I bought mine, my headlights would sometimes get stuck popped-up. I thought it might have been one of the fusible links, but I never did anything about it, and the problem went away and never came back. I'm sorry, what? You didn't limp home on one rotor, you limped home on one ignition system. Trust me, you will KNOW when you've only got one rotor. Leading and trailing both fire on both rotors, just earlier and later in the cycle, respectively. But you probably know that, and that was just a typo.
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May 15, 2013 18:21
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