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Bad Munki posted:poo poo just got real, I ordered a new bandsaw. Yeah, that thing is no joke. You better have some projects lined up.
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Apr 19, 2013 02:30
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What's a good 11" or 12" chop-saw that has a slide cut capability, but won't jiggle all over the place after a few months and will cut a nice 90 degree? Right now I have two options when cutting 12" and 14" boards. Use my dad's 10" Delta without a slide feature and flip it over and do two cuts, or use the 12" sliding Rona saw that would suck a dick...if it wasn't so freaking wobbly. I'm looking for something Sub $500 (if possible) that will give me a perfect 90 degree cut on a slab of 1x14" oak, and won't be making my life miserable a year from now because those 90 degree cuts have turned into 87 degree cuts, or look like waves. I've been reading reviews on the net, but the only saws that don't have 50/50 reviews are ones that cost $700 and up. p.s. I'm in Canada, so US goons can add another $50-100 on all tool costs.
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Apr 21, 2013 01:42
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Crossposting this from woodworking... Strobe tach results, low speed is just below 240 RPM, high speed is a little above 3,600. Initially I got up to around 2,800 RPM but I took some pressure off the bearings and gained a little more.  
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Apr 21, 2013 04:45
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Any recommendations for a good caulk gun? I have an elcheapo delux manual gun already but i loving hate that thing, it works good enough for basic sink caulking and poo poo like that. Need to caulk some cracks in some hardy plank siding. Lots of ladder time on this project so something that is easy to handle, comfortable, and smooth to work would be preferable. Would like to keep the tool cost below $150.
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Apr 24, 2013 18:47
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I would recommend another manual gun, but one of the good contractor ones. A well designed caulk gun will give you a nice full grip with proper finger notches, real leverage on the trigger for fine and hard pressure work. I used to use a cheap $3 china caulk gun and it gave me hand cramps, when I switched to a much nicer model with built-in cutter and poking pin, I found caulking a lot less onerous.
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Apr 24, 2013 23:41
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There are the battery powered caulk guns. I know Dewalt makes one and I think I saw Makita has one. No experience with these, but maybe someone else can chime in who has used them.
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Apr 25, 2013 00:08
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Doublethink posted:Any recommendations for a good caulk gun? I have an elcheapo delux manual gun already but i loving hate that thing, it works good enough for basic sink caulking and poo poo like that. Need to caulk some cracks in some hardy plank siding. Lots of ladder time on this project so something that is easy to handle, comfortable, and smooth to work would be preferable. Would like to keep the tool cost below $150. http://www.amazon.com/Newborn-Brothers-930-GTD-Trigger-Drip-Free/dp/B000BQS5GO/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top This one in particular is great, but most of the "dripless" guns are absolutely bitchin. They're progressive instead of having a ratchet, which largely keeps the drip/slowly tapering spooge problem from happening. Definitely qualifies as smooth and comfy. I personally can't really stand the electric caulk guns, I need the feel from the good manual ones. e: any good caulk gun should have a way to hang it on a ladder/pants to get your hands free, and a tip cutter/seal poker. Those things alone usually make life a lot nicer. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Apr 25, 2013 |
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Apr 25, 2013 00:57
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Just a safety reminder for people about how easy it is to hurt yourself with power tools. Today at work I was drilling a 1/4 hole in a bracket and the drill bit caught my glove just as the bit broke through the other side of the bracket and pulled my finger into the path of the bit. The drill bit cut all the way to the bone and shredded flesh and skin. Gloves are mandatory on this job site at all times otherwise I wouldn't have been wearing them. Be careful around power tools, it is very easy to become complacent around them, but they can still gently caress your day up quick. Be safe!
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Apr 26, 2013 01:10
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So I managed to finally pull the trigger on a 78 (113.298) craftsman table saw. Original owner, along with the original manual for 70 bucks. It has the stamped extensions not cast iron. Looks like they are about 50 bucks a side shipped on ebay, is that worth it? Also any suggestions on fences, belts, or plans for a dust collection / rolling stand would be appreciated.
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Apr 26, 2013 01:58
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iForge posted:Just a safety reminder for people about how easy it is to hurt yourself with power tools. Today at work I was drilling a 1/4 hole in a bracket and the drill bit caught my glove just as the bit broke through the other side of the bracket and pulled my finger into the path of the bit. The drill bit cut all the way to the bone and shredded flesh and skin. Gloves are mandatory on this job site at all times otherwise I wouldn't have been wearing them. You should maybe talk to your supervisor or foreman or OSHA if you're being required to wear gloves while working with sharp, spinning power tools. That's incredibly unsafe, because of exactly what happened to you today.
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Apr 26, 2013 02:20
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Sagebrush posted:You should maybe talk to your supervisor or foreman or OSHA if you're being required to wear gloves while working with sharp, spinning power tools. That's incredibly unsafe, because of exactly what happened to you today. I asked about that and was told that the only times you are allowed to take your gloves off are if you are working with adhesive tape or very small screws/hardware that you otherwise couldn't grip. From now on I am taking my gloves off when drilling, etc and show them a pic of the cut on my phone if they bitch at me.
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Apr 26, 2013 02:25
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http://www.osha.gov/Publications/woodworking_hazards/osha3157.html "Protective gloves are the primary means available for direct hand protection. Extra-long gauntlets or sleeves attached to the gloves can extend protection up the arm. However, the appropriateness of glove use in the woodworking workplace should be carefully reviewed on a task-by-task basis. Gloves should not be worn when operating woodworking equipment due to the potential for getting caught in moving parts. Heavy leather, metal mesh, or gloves may provide protection against cuts, abrasions, and lacerations, but they can also greatly reduce dexterity, possibly leading to a higher frequency of the mishaps they are intended to protect against. Furthermore, no glove will stand up to direct contact with the cutting surfaces of most of your power equipment. For these reasons, engineering and work-practice controls will be your best bet for addressing the hand and arm hazards posed by cutting and shaping equipment." And right here is exactly your injury: http://www.osha.gov/Publications/OSHA3170/3170-02R-2007-English.html#Hazards28 "Amputations typically occur when the operator's gloves, loose-fitting clothing, or jewelry become entangled in the rotating drill bit. A machinist amputated his left index finger at the first joint while drilling holes in a machined part. As he moved the part to begin drilling another hole, his gloved hand got caught in the drill bit." Don't let them get away with this, please.
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Apr 26, 2013 02:35
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Daggerpants posted:So I managed to finally pull the trigger on a 78 (113.298) craftsman table saw. Original owner, along with the original manual for 70 bucks. It has the stamped extensions not cast iron. Looks like they are about 50 bucks a side shipped on ebay, is that worth it? Also any suggestions on fences, belts, or plans for a dust collection / rolling stand would be appreciated. Congrats on finally getting a saw. Whether it's worth it is really up to you. I'd use the saw a little while before spending any significant money on it. Post pics.
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Apr 26, 2013 03:03
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Daggerpants posted:So I managed to finally pull the trigger on a 78 (113.298) craftsman table saw. Original owner, along with the original manual for 70 bucks. It has the stamped extensions not cast iron. Looks like they are about 50 bucks a side shipped on ebay, is that worth it? Also any suggestions on fences, belts, or plans for a dust collection / rolling stand would be appreciated. Had the exact saw for a time (before the motor died). I'd recommend keeping the stamped wings; works just fine IMO
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Apr 26, 2013 03:04
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Sagebrush posted:http://www.osha.gov/Publications/woodworking_hazards/osha3157.html It is the GC's rule not my company's... Thanks for posting that, I will be printing some of that out and will put a copy in my tool bag. If I get yelled at for not wearing the gloves, I will pull out the paperwork.
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Apr 27, 2013 03:21
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Speaking of drill press accidents... I was using a self feeding forstner bit in the drill press and yeah I know you're not supposed to do that but I drilled a pilot hole so the screw wouldn't catch but apparently didn't drill it quite big enough and it was spectacular for about 1 millisecond. The dp fence went flying across the shop, the dp table moved about 1/4 turn, some scraps I had underneath went flying and my thumb got caught between the walnut I was drilling and a hole in the table. Luckily I had forgotten to tighten the table and it was able to spin freely so I got off with a black and blue thumb. Although the table being free is probably why everything went flying in the first place.
wormil fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Apr 27, 2013 |
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Apr 27, 2013 04:56
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wormil posted:Speaking of drill press accidents... I was using a self feeding forstner bit in the drill press and yeah I know you're not supposed to do that but I drilled a pilot hole so the screw wouldn't catch but apparently didn't drill it quite big enough and it was spectacular for about 1 millisecond. The dp fence went flying across the shop, the dp table moved about 1/4 turn, some scraps I had underneath went flying and my thumb got caught between the walnut I was drilling and a hole in the table. Luckily I had forgotten to tighten the table and it was able to spin freely so I got off with a black and blue thumb. Although the table being free is probably why everything went flying in the first place. To be honest I don't understand the need for self feeding bits at all. I've almost broken my wrist drilling free handed about 600 times using regular (often above 1/2'') bits and it seems they would just amplify that risk. They also seem to be specifically designed to crack wood.
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Apr 27, 2013 09:33
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Neighbor has a shop smith mk7 for $200 obo. Seems mostly intact and functions. Worth it?
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Apr 27, 2013 13:59
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Archives posted:To be honest I don't understand the need for self feeding bits at all. I've almost broken my wrist drilling free handed about 600 times using regular (often above 1/2'') bits and it seems they would just amplify that risk. They also seem to be specifically designed to crack wood. They're great for putting holes through joists/studs when you can't put a lot of axial force on the drill.
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Apr 27, 2013 18:57
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dyne posted:They're great for putting holes through joists/studs when you can't put a lot of axial force on the drill. Hell yes they are. I love my self feeding 3/4" ship augur, it's got hardened cutting edges and is advertised as being capable of drilling right through embedded nails. It's true, I put a hole straight through a 6" oak beam with a couple nails into it in one spot, neither it nor my 1/2" milwaukee drill even paused.
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Apr 29, 2013 12:37
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wormil posted:Congrats on finally getting a saw. Whether it's worth it is really up to you. I'd use the saw a little while before spending any significant money on it. Post pics. Here are a few pictures after I cleaned up a little bit of surface rust.    You can see on the third image half of the pulley has been shredded off somehow and the previous owner reattached it backward so the saw will still run. Guess that will be the first thing to be replaced.
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May 1, 2013 22:44
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Looks great. Also, the pulley is all kinds of  and obviously needs to be replaced as you said, but while you're at it, throw a power link belt on there. It really does make a difference.
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May 1, 2013 23:48
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dyne posted:They're great for putting holes through joists/studs when you can't put a lot of axial force on the drill. I use a couple with square shanks in a brace Mercury Ballistic posted:Neighbor has a shop smith mk7 for $200 obo. Seems mostly intact and functions. Worth it? $200 is not a lot, it can do a lot, but can't do anything very well. Cmdr. Chompernuts fucked around with this message at 01:14 on May 2, 2013 |
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May 2, 2013 01:12
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Bad Munki posted:Looks great. Also, the pulley is all kinds of Going to second this. I have a 70's Craftsman table saw just like yours but with the cast iron table extensions and I put a link belt on it and never looked back. Totally worth it.
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May 2, 2013 01:31
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I shudder to think how quickly that thing goes through belts with that pulley.
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May 2, 2013 01:39
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Wow, I wasn't expecting a $70 saw to look that good. Score! Also, umpteenth'n the recommendation on a link belt. They are $24 at Harbor Freight. I just put one on my saw and the improvement was notable but change that pulley first. And if you can afford it, buy a machined pulley.
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May 2, 2013 02:14
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wormil posted:Wow, I wasn't expecting a $70 saw to look that good. Score! Speaking of, I might like to change the pulley on mine. Anything in particular I need to consider beyond the right diameter, axle size, and groove width/shape?
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May 2, 2013 02:17
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stubblyhead posted:I shudder to think how quickly that thing goes through belts with that pulley. "Welll... I'd say this is probably a 3-belt project, maybe a 4-belter if we get fancy."
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May 2, 2013 02:18
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Bad Munki posted:Speaking of, I might like to change the pulley on mine. Anything in particular I need to consider beyond the right diameter, axle size, and groove width/shape? Luckily my saw came with machined pulleys so I've never had to change one. I can't think of anything other than what you've listed.
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May 2, 2013 17:31
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Be careful with the fence on that saw it is crazy innaccurate. The screw down locking mechanism does not lock to a single position, can lock it crooked. Best to take a square to it every time you adjust it and re-lock it until it's correct. More long term solution is to replace the fence but it is rather pricey
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May 2, 2013 20:48
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Broke down and bought a dial indicator so of course last night I was checking everything in my shop. The saw arbor flange was less than .001; and the tiny movement was a speck of rust. The drill press had about .004 runout one inch down from the chuck. Two inches down it was about .006; seems like it should have been double. Lathe arbor had about .002 runout right at the headstock. I don't really know what any of them should be but it's better than I expected. I need to make a jig for my tablesaw miter slot. http://youtu.be/UZkho7kPD4w
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May 3, 2013 16:06
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dwoloz posted:Be careful with the fence on that saw it is crazy innaccurate. The screw down locking mechanism does not lock to a single position, can lock it crooked. Best to take a square to it every time you adjust it and re-lock it until it's correct. More long term solution is to replace the fence but it is rather pricey Yeah the fence on it is pretty crap. I'm going to order a link belt and some machined pulleys then make a solid cross-cut sled, should help me delay the decision on buying a new fence. I'd like to build a rolling dust collecting enclosure for the saw but haven't really been able to find any plans. Most people just get the little rolling frame setup that bolts on to the existing stand but that won't do anything for dust.
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May 3, 2013 19:53
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Daggerpants posted:then make a solid cross-cut sled, should help me delay the decision on buying a new fence Ehh, the situations where you'd use the fence and the situations where you'd use a crosscut sled are largely non-intersecting. Daggerpants posted:Most people just get the little rolling frame setup that bolts on to the existing stand but that won't do anything for dust. In a pinch, you could do what my dad did to his craftsman for 20 some-odd years: just fix a hefty bag to the underside.
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May 3, 2013 19:59
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I have a 1960's craftsman that has the original 1960's fence. It has to be checked with a square every single time I move and clamp it. It's a little time consuming when doing a large job with lots of different cuts, but once you get into the swing of things, you'll find it becomes second nature and you are doing it within seconds. Hold off on the fence if money is tight and take care of the pulley and belt first. As long as you can lock the fence tight, it will not stop you from being able to do anything you'd normally be able to do on a tablesaw.
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May 3, 2013 20:23
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Bad Munki posted:Ehh, the situations where you'd use the fence and the situations where you'd use a crosscut sled are largely non-intersecting. For smaller cuts I don't see how they are particularly different. Care to elaborate?
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May 3, 2013 20:26
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Daggerpants posted:For smaller cuts I don't see how they are particularly different. Care to elaborate? The rip fence is used for ripping and a cross cut sled is used for cross cutting. Two different operations completely. If you do rips on the sled there is not much support at all for the workpiece. There is a good chance it will want to move. If you do cross cuts up against your fence you will probably have a kickback. Ask me how I know.
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May 3, 2013 20:30
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e: ^^^ Much more succinct. A fence is used for ripping. A crosscut sled is used for crosscutting. If you're using your fence to position a board for crosscutting, you should have a spacer block on there so that the board isn't actually touching the fence as it passes the blade, so the quality of the fence at that point wouldn't matter. If your board is wider (the direction perpendicular to the plane of the blade) than it is long (the direction parallel to the blade/fence) then you shouldn't be using the fence, because you're asking for kickback. That's just a general rule of thumb, but it has served me well. For really small cuts, like little 1/2" blocks or whatever, you simply shouldn't be using the fence at all, because there's no way to get any good purchase on the workpiece. That's one place where crosscut sleds are awesome, you can just set up a few stops and drop your piece in and go, so much safer. Check that same(?) wood whisperer video for some good examples of that. I subscribe to the school of: if you're not ripping and can reasonably use the crosscut sled, do so. Crosscut sleds naturally add a level of safety to tablesaw operations. And since we're talking about kickback, and you asked about smaller cuts, I just want to say one last thing: "mid-size" boards (say anything from 4" to 16") are prime kickback territory. e: I got my threads mixed up, here's the wood whisperer crosscut sled video I was referencing: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/the-cross-cut-sled/ Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:39 on May 3, 2013 |
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May 3, 2013 20:31
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In my case I was using my miter gauge on the left side of the blade. The off cut was on the right side and I was using the fence as a stop. The offcut, a 12"x12"x1" piece of hard maple, got wedged between the fence and the blade, right when I was thinking "I shouldnt be doing this, this way.". It took off and missed my face by about an inch, flew about 100 feet across the street and hit my neighbor's truck HARD. A table saw is no joke. You need to learn what NOT to do. Here is a great video of what not to do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4 mds2 fucked around with this message at 20:42 on May 3, 2013 |
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May 3, 2013 20:39
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My 1965 Rockwell table saw has a right-tilt blade. I was cutting a bevel on a piece of 3/4" poplar, about 6"x10". Of COURSE it caught and with that blade tilted towards the fence like that, it REALLY got a good grip on it. Hit me just off-center, an inch or two down from my nip-line. The part I'd already cut is what tagged me, so I had this really interesting welt, here's an artist's rendition:code:Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:56 on May 3, 2013 |
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May 3, 2013 20:45
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I was making a jewelry box with keyed mitered corners. I made a jig to cut the key slots out of the corners. I saw someone coming to talk to me and put the jig aside, but did not turn off the saw. When I realized they were not coming to talk to me I accidentally knocked the jig into the blade, it hit my thigh, the bruise was black the next day.
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May 3, 2013 20:53
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