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I tried the CC method of just putting something stinky and tasty on top of his food this morning and it seemed to work pretty well, thanks MrFurious!
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May 3, 2013 18:08
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Is getting a terrier in a house with a cat a really terrible idea, or would their prey drive be manageable for first time owners with proper training?
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May 3, 2013 19:19
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What makes you want a terrier rather than another breed?
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May 3, 2013 19:21
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notsowelp posted:What makes you want a terrier rather than another breed? I'm just looking at options, there's nothing that would make me prefer another breed over a terrier right now for instance. Westies and Scottys specifically are breeds that my family all have in common as loving pets (growing up), and the only outstanding reason against them is that I've no instances of them living with cats. The owners I know either have no other pets, or more Westies.
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May 3, 2013 19:42
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Captain Diarrhoea posted:Is getting a terrier in a house with a cat a really terrible idea, or would their prey drive be manageable for first time owners with proper training? What kind of terrier? Breed-wise there's a lot of variation between working terriers like Patterdales or JRTs and companion/toy terriers like Yorkies, Bostons or Rat terriers, with other breeds in between. If you just like a scruffy terrier mix look, go to a rescue and get a young adult who's cat-tested. E: Just saw your response. I have a (likely) Westie x Maltese shelter mutt who adores my cat.
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May 3, 2013 19:43
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MrFurious posted:Dogs come pre-wired to search for food on the ground. The definition of "food" is extremely loose. Cat poop -- food. Vegetables -- garbage. Dog logic 
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May 3, 2013 22:49
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Cross-posting from Post Your Pet:Clockwork Gadget posted:So, it's been almost a month since we became puppy parents.
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May 3, 2013 23:21
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Fraction posted:I've tried; she won't drink it when I'm holding her, and I can't put her down.
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May 3, 2013 23:51
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I took a dog first aid class about a year ago and one of the things they taught us was that if you need to cool a dog off quickly due to heat stroke or something, get that cool towel (not too cold) and place it on the inside of their shoulder joint at their back legs. Big arteries run close to the skin there so you can cool the blood off quickly which will help a lot.
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May 4, 2013 13:32
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Hey all - I've lurked this thread for a while in preparation for my new puppy that I got this past Thursday evening. I want to say this thread and the reading material have been incredibly informative. Duke is an 8 week old lab/terrier mix who is super adorable (will post photos when I get home), but I am having real issues with what I believe to be separation anxiety. If I leave him in his ex-pen and try to walk more than a few feet, he will start whining and eventually barking if I move far enough away. I turn my back to him and don't go back to him until he stops whining for 10 secs or so, but I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions. I am hoping its just the transition process of a new house/owner, but its kind of wearing me out. I've tried to make his crate/pen super fun and playful, but it just isn't settling in at the moment. Any thoughts? This is my first time owning a puppy and I really enjoy him, and I guess I thought I was prepared for everything, but the little guy is just exhausting at times.
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May 4, 2013 15:36
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MrFurious posted:I took a dog first aid class about a year ago and one of the things they taught us was that if you need to cool a dog off quickly due to heat stroke or something, get that cool towel (not too cold) and place it on the inside of their shoulder joint at their back legs. Big arteries run close to the skin there so you can cool the blood off quickly which will help a lot. That's a good tip, thanks. I have a feeling it's going to be a hot summer.
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May 4, 2013 16:22
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Is there a page here in the thread or somewhere else on the site discussing the merits of getting a puppy or an adult dog? I get out of the Navy next month and I have two months of paid time off before I start school. I feel that with that amount of time, it's appropriate to get a puppy, but I want to read more about the pros and cons. I'm sure this has been discussed before so if I could be pointed in the direction of some info that would be great, thanks.
blue squares fucked around with this message at 17:45 on May 4, 2013 |
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May 4, 2013 17:43
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Hammid posted:Hey all - I've lurked this thread for a while in preparation for my new puppy that I got this past Thursday evening. I want to say this thread and the reading material have been incredibly informative. Try to make the ex-pen a super nice place and give the pup cool things to do when he's there that he doesn't get otherwise. Feed him in there, give him extra special long-lasting treats when he's there (meaty bones, frozen kongs etc).
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May 4, 2013 19:41
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Hammid posted:Duke is an 8 week old lab/terrier mix who is super adorable (will post photos when I get home), but I am having real issues with what I believe to be separation anxiety. If I leave him in his ex-pen and try to walk more than a few feet, he will start whining and eventually barking if I move far enough away. I turn my back to him and don't go back to him until he stops whining for 10 secs or so, but I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions. I am hoping its just the transition process of a new house/owner, but its kind of wearing me out. I've tried to make his crate/pen super fun and playful, but it just isn't settling in at the moment. Any thoughts? My nine week old border collie pup will still shriek and bite the bars in a rage if I leave her crated to shower/walk my other dog. She sleeps in her crate without more than a moment or two of fussing now though. It's not SA, just a puppy not understanding what's going on and trying to make a big noise to bring you back.
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May 4, 2013 19:53
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blue squares posted:Is there a page here in the thread or somewhere else on the site discussing the merits of getting a puppy or an adult dog? I get out of the Navy next month and I have two months of paid time off before I start school. I feel that with that amount of time, it's appropriate to get a puppy, but I want to read more about the pros and cons. I'm sure this has been discussed before so if I could be pointed in the direction of some info that would be great, thanks. It could potentially be a good time, but puppies are pretty needy for longer than two months. I'd say until they're at least 6-8 months old, you'd need to have someone who can take them out to potty in the middle of the day, in addition to taking them out at night as well. If you can handle that when you go back to school, it should be fine. That said, you will need to get your puppy used to you not being around all the time. If he spends his first two months with you nearly constantly, when you go back to school he may experience separation anxiety. Setting up a structure during those two months where you're out of the house for several hours a day would be good to help prepare him for this.
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May 4, 2013 20:40
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blue squares posted:Is there a page here in the thread or somewhere else on the site discussing the merits of getting a puppy or an adult dog? I get out of the Navy next month and I have two months of paid time off before I start school. I feel that with that amount of time, it's appropriate to get a puppy, but I want to read more about the pros and cons. I'm sure this has been discussed before so if I could be pointed in the direction of some info that would be great, thanks. To echo Serella, my personal advice would be to get an adult dog. While those two months might be fine, the next months won't be the same. This discussion is lined out in the OP, you should be able to find the relevant sections using the outline.
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May 4, 2013 22:55
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I live in a house with s back yard and another great dog so taking him out won't be an issue. edit: I found the most amazing dog and will be welcoming him into my home soon! blue squares fucked around with this message at 17:43 on May 6, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 01:36
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How do I get my puppy to play nice with other dogs? He's a 14 week old Black Lab + German Shepherd/Akita so right now hes bigger than a few full grown breeds. When he wants to play with a dog he kind of barks and growls(but not an angry growl) which if you're a little shitzuh it might be a little scary, especially to the owner. (He also does this to our cat who is terrified of him still) And sometimes when he does play with another dog he kind of mouths them, but if they're in a chase he'll actually like grab their tail/fur which as you can imagine doesn't come across well to the other owner. When I play with him he still mouths occasionally but its very soft and gentle, even with his sharp teething teeth. Occasionally he will paw other dogs as well. This is all with smaller dogs; against any bigger dogs he usually sits his butt down and lets the other dog smell him and kind of looks intimidated. The few times hes tried the mouthing/pawing a bigger dog who didn't like it he quickly got the idea that he can't do that.
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May 6, 2013 17:36
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I'm looking for advice on what sort of breeds to look out for in the dog I want to adopt sometime in the next couple of months, and this seems like the right thread to ask. I tried the breed selector things in the OP, but only one of them seemed to give me answers, and that one gave me high-energy breeds despite me choosing low-energy as a requirement so  I'd like a dog with relatively low energy requirements, such as a half hour walk/jog/run a day, with up to an hour or so of active play and training at home. The house I'll be moving to is a fairly small bungalow with a decent-sized enclosed garden. The dog would need to be able to deal with being on its own for extended periods of time, as I work full-time. I have the option of coming home during my lunchtime as I don't live far from work, however it would likely only be for twenty minutes, some of which I will have to spend on my own lunch, not interacting with the dog. In the case of me not coming home at lunch time the time spent alone would be around eight and a half hours maximum, if I came home then maybe four hours. I've lived with dogs most of my life, but this would be the first dog I'd be solely responsible for. I currently have three small caged birds; I am prepared to seperate the dog from them in a seperate room initially, however I would need to eventually have them all coexisting in the same room while the birds are caged, preferably while the birds are loose under supervision. I realise this is much more dependant on the individual dog than the breed, however it does rule out excessively prey-driven breeds. I'm very intested in dog training and would love to spend time teaching the new dog all sorts of tricks. Previously I have lived with a spaniel mix, pomeranian, generic terrier mix, and a westie terrier. I've also had a lot of interaction with larger dogs, as I have spent a lot of time with a German Shepherd owned by my grandparents. I especially loved the pomeranian when we had her, as she was the sweetest little thing. Overall I'd prefer a smaller size of dog just for ease of handling and concerns about the space available inside the house; the garden is big enough for all but the largest of dogs to have a bit of a romp in. Finally, I am not planning to get a puppy, or even planning on a purebred, and am aware that the disposition will be something of a mystery in that case. I am looking to adopt from a local shelter and will be limited by what they have at the time, but would like to have some ideas of what kind of dog would work for my situation so I can at least ask the right questions when the time comes. Apologies if this is the wrong place for this, but it was the best fitting thread I could find.
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May 8, 2013 11:23
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Trauma Tank posted:I'd like a dog with relatively low energy requirements, such as a half hour walk/jog/run a day, with up to an hour or so of active play and training at home. The house I'll be moving to is a fairly small bungalow with a decent-sized enclosed garden. The dog would need to be able to deal with being on its own for extended periods of time, as I work full-time. I have the option of coming home during my lunchtime as I don't live far from work, however it would likely only be for twenty minutes, some of which I will have to spend on my own lunch, not interacting with the dog. In the case of me not coming home at lunch time the time spent alone would be around eight and a half hours maximum, if I came home then maybe four hours.
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May 8, 2013 11:50
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Trauma Tank posted:I'm very intested in dog training and would love to spend time teaching the new dog all sorts of tricks. Previously I have lived with a spaniel mix, pomeranian, generic terrier mix, and a westie terrier. I've also had a lot of interaction with larger dogs, as I have spent a lot of time with a German Shepherd owned by my grandparents. I especially loved the pomeranian when we had her, as she was the sweetest little thing. Overall I'd prefer a smaller size of dog just for ease of handling and concerns about the space available inside the house; the garden is big enough for all but the largest of dogs to have a bit of a romp in. If you go with a greyhound, ask a lot of questions about prey drive. Otherwise, I think an older (3+) small poodle mutt could work out, if you find one with lower energy. The designer breed fad means they show up in shelters reasonably often, and they tend to be smarter and more biddable than a lot of other small dogs. You may have to decide between trainability, activity level and age - many dogs who are low-energy from a young age are harder to train.
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May 8, 2013 17:22
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Trauma Tank posted:Finally, I am not planning to get a puppy, or even planning on a purebred, and am aware that the disposition will be something of a mystery in that case. I am looking to adopt from a local shelter and will be limited by what they have at the time, but would like to have some ideas of what kind of dog would work for my situation so I can at least ask the right questions when the time comes. A retired greyhound or a mellow older dog of any sort would probably fit you just fine. I would make a list of all your requirements (energy level, grooming requirements, size, etc), things you like but are flexible about, and things you can not deal with (high energy, separation anxiety, etc). Take that to a shelter or rescue that does thorough evaluations and have them show you dogs that might fit. A rescue that uses foster homes would probably be your best bet for an accurate evaluation of how the dog will fit your lifestyle.
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May 8, 2013 17:47
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Trauma Tank posted:I'm very intested in dog training and would love to spend time teaching the new dog all sorts of tricks. While a retired greyhound would otherwise make a great match, sighthounds tend not to be the most trainable of dogs. You might luck out with a grey who has the attention span for trick training, but honestly I wouldn't count on it. An older, mellow lab/shepherd mutt from the shelter might be your best bet  .
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May 8, 2013 18:12
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Have a new puppy pug. We got her probably about 10-12 weeks old (we got her from some lady on Craigslist who bought her as a present for her 1 year old, was not happy when the puppy was play aggressive and pretty much threw her up on Craigslist the very next day) she has been with us for about 3 weeks or so. So far we have been pretty hit or miss on her potty training some days she'll be doing really really well cut down to just about 1 mess a day, or she'll mess when we give her water but get distracted. We know that ones on us, and we really are trying to cut down on those mistakes, and I have set up an actual schedule for her to be taken out coinciding with her feeding/sleeping schedule. (Rather than what I did before which was oh she hasn't gone in a while I'll take her out now.) I just sometimes notice she'll potty with out any warning at all, she won't even squat in any noticeable way but they'll be a puddle. Usually when she actually uses the restroom it'll be along drawn out ordeal, she'll sit down squat bow her legs and pee, then turn around and sniff it and then go about her business, but sometimes she'll just mess not even notice it herself even then go on about her way. I am hoping this is a behavior she is going to grow out of, and that hopefully (or sadly) she was much younger than the people we got her from told us, and that the muscles that let her hold it in just haven't formed completely yet. 90% of the time she will poop outside, especially if I am being diligent with the schedule it's just the peeing that's the problem. Every time she pee's I clean it up with Natures Miracle, if that helps at all. Edit: Also, any advice on eating her own poop? I am chalking it up to her having worms. ( We are treating her, the lady we got her from told us she was treated and was perfectly fine, then just 2 days ago she uses the restroom and her feces are worm central, so we are hoping right on getting the treatment.) But is there any better advice other than deterring her and distracting her from it. JimsonTheBetrayer fucked around with this message at 18:46 on May 8, 2013 |
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May 8, 2013 18:42
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Oh dear. It sounds like your puppy has had a pretty rough start to life. Unfortunately sometimes coprophagia never goes away, but with any luck it will with her. For peeing, it's possible she has a UTI and that's why you're not seeing any signs. Have you taken her to the vet? When my dog was a pup I brought her to the vet and he prescribed antibiotics despite not being able to examine any urine, and they ended up clearing it right up. For random accidents, you should really confine the dog in an area where it will endeavor to keep it clean. (Some dogs bought from pet stores, etc never had the option to keep an area clean, and will routinely soil crates with urine and feces. Some of these dogs eat their poo due to poor nutrition or in an effort to clean the area of filth.) Are you crate training the puppy? Will she keep the crate clean, assuming she gets plenty of opportunities to relieve herself outside? Keep her confined when you're not able to give her 100% of your attention, and provide breaks every hour or two. Keep track of her voiding routines each day so you can better predict when she'll need to go. Puppies normally need to go first thing in the morning, after waking up, after eating and after playing. As she grows and proves herself reliable in a crate, begin to expand the confinement area via the use of an ex-pen or baby gates. Follow the housebreaking guide in the OP of this thread. With proper training and management she'll likely learn to control herself well. I tend to say that the more you restrict a puppy's freedom the more freedom you can provide as the dog grows. It's a pain at first, but it really pays off in the long run. For the poo eating (coprophagia) your best bet is to always pick it up right away. Make sure she is on a high quality food and that there's nothing medically wrong with her like worms. There are some supplements that you can add to the food to make the poop less tasty to a dog, but those can be hit or miss. I would be ultra vigilant for the next 3-4 months to see if you can break the habit by simply not affording her the opportunity to eat poop, and if that doesn't work begin looking at products specifically designed for your issue.
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May 8, 2013 19:18
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My wife and I recently adopted a Shiba Inu puppy to our family. We got him from a reputable breeder in Concord, CA when he was 7.5 weeks. Everything seemed to be swimming along just fine as we were trying to socialize him to many new experiences. We may have gone a little bit too far as he began vomiting on Saturday. It started with just his food, and then it became a yellowish filmy liquid. We rushed him to the emergency room fearing that it might be Parvo or Distemper. A Parvo test came up negative and we were told it was probably just a really upset stomach. We were sent home w/ some meds that would settle his stomach so that hopefully he would eat or drink. After a night of not eating or drinking we took him back to the ER where it was later determined he had Giardia. He stayed overnight at the vet on Sunday so that they could monitor his progress. On Monday we got a call that he had lost his vision and that they would switch from using Metronidazole to Panacur for the Giardia. We waited it out to see if his vision would return, but I am very sad to report that it has not. He was discharged from the hospital yesterday as he was eating and drinking just fine, he just could not really see. My wife is currently taking him to the Ophthalmologist in hopes of some answers about his vision. I have tried reading everywhere about what might cause this sudden vision loss in a 13 week old puppy but I am at a loss. Any help would be appreciated. Here are some pics of the little guy   
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May 8, 2013 22:14
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a life less posted:Unfortunately sometimes coprophagia never goes away, Yeah, tell me about it  Tater's coprophagia is so wired into his brain that when we're at the dog park (and we spend a lot of time at the dog park) if he's not actively wrestling a dog he'll enter Poop Patrol Mode where he'll stalk dogs as they come in since he knows they'll be doing business in short order. I try to keep an eye on things but there's still several times a day when I'll be talking to someone, turn my head and yup there he is acting out his canine caterpillar fantasy. Ugh.Now he's starting to eat his own again too, so he's back on pumpkin for now. Little fucker, you're lucky you're cute.
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May 8, 2013 22:23
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I wish I had something to offer besides condolences, but I'm afraid that's all I have. I'm very interested to hear more about this though, and maybe some of our resident vet posters can offer something as well.
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May 9, 2013 00:40
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Link to breeder please. I don't really care enough to judge but I'm in the bay area and plan on getting a shiba in the future.
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May 9, 2013 01:18
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wackoclwn posted:I have tried reading everywhere about what might cause this sudden vision loss in a 13 week old puppy but I am at a loss. Any help would be appreciated. Unfortunately the best thing to do is wait for the Ophthalmologist, as otherwise it's just complete random guessing and the prognosis varies from "likely to recover fully in 2-3 days with no treatment" to "will always be blind." You may freak yourself out by latching onto something that it doesn't end up being, or you'll go in expecting one thing and not believing when it's another. This is a strange case. For the technical side of things... There are several locations in the nerve routes and processing of the eyes where the problem could be - in the retina (where visual information is taken in), the optic nerve (takes information from eyeball towards the brain), the tracts that carry the nerve bundles, the areas of the brain for visual processing, or the connections between the visual center of the brain and the rest of the brain. There are a lot of physical exam findings that can help narrow that down, but sometimes you'll need all the way to an MRI or surgical sampling to determine what's going on. That may not be the information you're looking for, but I think it would be a good idea to just hold off, take a breather, and get your pooch to the specialist and wait. Edit: I see it all the time of people doing their own research or being told what the diagnosis is from other people. Sometimes I'll get the "oh that's exactly what the Internet said!" Sometimes I get the "are you sure it's not this one thing I read about on the Internet (pulls out scary article on something not related)?" Or even the "but the Internet said it would be this very nice happy thing!" when it's not. I know it's probably hard, but just hold on. Watch a movie or something. Just don't drink, you might need to process information. HelloSailorSign fucked around with this message at 02:28 on May 9, 2013 |
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May 9, 2013 02:24
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wackoclwn posted:We got him from a reputable breeder ... when he was 7.5 weeks See, the things is, these two things don't jive in my mind. I can't think of many reasons to send a puppy off to a new home at less than weeks, and 10-12 is optimal by most reputable breeders' standards. In many places, taking a puppy away from it's mother at under 8 weeks is actually illegal, so who would do it? I don't know, maybe it's just a fluke and they did proper health testing and such, but it really stands out as a bad practice. Anyway, your puppy is cute and I hope he gets better. Hopefully it's just a weird bug and he makes a full recovery, but there are a lot of resources for the best ways to help make life easier for disabled pets in case his vision doesn't return. Keep us posted!
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May 9, 2013 03:27
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Serella posted:See, the things is, these two things don't jive in my mind. I can't think of many reasons to send a puppy off to a new home at less than weeks, and 10-12 is optimal by most reputable breeders' standards. In many places, taking a puppy away from it's mother at under 8 weeks is actually illegal, so who would do it? I don't know, maybe it's just a fluke and they did proper health testing and such, but it really stands out as a bad practice. wackoclown, I'm sorry for what you've been through. I hope the ophthalmologist has good news for you.
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May 9, 2013 13:15
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Rixatrix posted:I've brought all my three puppies home on the day they turned seven weeks, all from three reputable breeders who health test and all that. While I wouldn't have minded waiting a week longer, I fully understand why you might not want a litter of highly active, not house broken puppies running around your home for any longer than necessary (and seven weeks is the legal limit here). I might have had to work a bit harder on teaching bite inhibition, but that's pretty much the only issue we've had that I can tell. Yeah we brought Moses home early (like 7ish weeks) because most of the puppies were starting to fight each other.
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May 9, 2013 14:06
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wackoclwn posted:My wife and I recently adopted a Shiba Inu puppy to our family. We got him from a reputable breeder in Concord, CA when he was 7.5 weeks. Just so you know, this is called purchasing a puppy, not adopting. Regardless though, I'm sorry to hear about his troubles and hope he is able to regain some of his vision.
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May 9, 2013 14:50
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rivals posted:Link to breeder please. I don't really care enough to judge but I'm in the bay area and plan on getting a shiba in the future. I got my shiba from a breeder in Concord as well; I don't know of more than one, so I would be willing to bet it is: http://myshibas.com/ In my admittedly limited experience/understanding, she's a very responsible/reputable breeder.
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May 9, 2013 18:57
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I adopted a lab on tuesday. He is 8 months old, but is occasionally very timid and he is still getting comfortable with me and my house. His foster family had him for three weeks and became very attached. They would like to have a play date with them and their other dogs. I am all for this, but I am slightly concerned that seeing them again so soon will delay the process of him getting used to me and knowing he is my dog. Any thoughts?
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May 10, 2013 02:49
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You're overthinking it. Just stuff his face with treats and do fun things with him so he creates a positive association with you. Don't worry about him knowing he belongs to you, just make him think you're awesome. Awesome owners take their labs on playdates with other dogs.
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May 10, 2013 04:14
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Away all Goats posted:How do I get my puppy to play nice with other dogs? He's a 14 week old Black Lab + German Shepherd/Akita so right now hes bigger than a few full grown breeds. When he wants to play with a dog he kind of barks and growls(but not an angry growl) which if you're a little shitzuh it might be a little scary, especially to the owner. (He also does this to our cat who is terrified of him still) Since no one responded, here's a TL;DR: I think my dog is a bully. Is there something I can do or should I just live with it? Today he was chasing around a 5 month old and an older/bigger golden retriever was actually stepping in to keep them separated.
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May 10, 2013 05:26
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Away all Goats posted:Is there something I can do or should I just live with it? But no matter what you should prevent the bullying. For the sake of other dogs.
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May 10, 2013 06:23
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Away all Goats posted:Since no one responded, here's a TL;DR: I think my dog is a bully. Is there something I can do or should I just live with it? My GSD is an rear end in a top hat bully so I don't really let him play with strange dogs (though your dog sounds much less douchey than mine). You might consider organizing play dates with dogs who won't allow him to bully them instead of taking him to the dog park where he can practice being a jerk. I look for high energy "fun police" type dogs who like to play rough because they won't let my boy get away with being a shithead and won't get irritated by his energy level.
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May 10, 2013 22:09
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