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Ambrose Burnside posted:It sounds like you're describing anodizing titanium/niobium- you need to dye aluminium if you want a particular colour, no? Maybe it was the electrolyte we were using, but we got color in our aluminum, too. I know the electrolyte smelled positively evil, and was a light greenish-blue. We did titanium, niobium, and aluminum in the same tank with the same electrolyte; the tank stayed pretty much full. Who knows, we may have been plating titanium onto our aluminum somehow.
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Apr 21, 2013 04:34
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| # ? May 25, 2024 15:58 |
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Anodizing can produce yellowish integral colors without dyes if it is carried out in weak acids with high voltages, high current densities, and strong refrigeration.[6] Shades of color are restricted to a range which includes pale yellow, gold, deep bronze, brown, grey, and black. Some advanced variations can produce a white coating with 80% reflectivity. The shade of color produced is sensitive to variations in the metallurgy of the underlying alloy and cannot be reproduced consistently.[2] Integral color anodizing is generally done with organic acids, but the same effect has been produced in laboratory with very dilute sulfuric acid. Integral color anodizing was originally performed with oxalic acid, but sulfonated aromatic compounds containing oxygen, particularly sulfosalicylic acid, have been more common since the 1960s.[2] Thicknesses up to 50μm can be achieved. Organic acid anodizing is called Type IC by MIL-A-8625. Well, what do you know.
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Apr 21, 2013 20:45
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A lady goes into a hardware store and tells the clerk she wants to buy a file. The clerk points to the display on the wall and says "Like that big bastard right there?" She says "No, the little mother fucker right next to it."
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Apr 23, 2013 05:19
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BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
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Apr 23, 2013 06:55
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Apr 23, 2013 14:50
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:A lady goes into a hardware store and tells the clerk she wants to buy a file. The clerk points to the display on the wall and says "Like that big bastard right there?" She says "No, the little mother fucker right next to it." May slag land in your hair.
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Apr 23, 2013 18:24
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Just wanted to post this in here and see if anyone thinks this might be a decent deal. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/tls/3727186599.html I'm currently looking for a beginners anvil and this has piqued my interest.
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Apr 23, 2013 21:03
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Rasta_Al posted:Just wanted to post this in here and see if anyone thinks this might be a decent deal. It is a good deal and while it has seen better days, it is perfectly useable as-is. If you can afford it, I would buy it. Normally you can expect to pay $2-$3 per pound for an anvil and sometimes more if it is a rare or big one.
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Apr 23, 2013 21:27
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Rasta_Al posted:Just wanted to post this in here and see if anyone thinks this might be a decent deal. That looks like a nice anvil, this one looks pretty good to me too and is in a similar price range. http://smd.craigslist.org/atq/3685452162.html
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Apr 23, 2013 22:23
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I appreciate both of y'all's advice. Picking it up on Friday!
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Apr 23, 2013 23:17
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Rasta_Al posted:I appreciate both of y'all's advice. Picking it up on Friday! That peter wright is beautiful. I'd LOVE to own it..
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Apr 24, 2013 02:14
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I had a shop teacher who was an old French biker with a Wild Bill mustache, name was Robert Leroux which is the perfect Quebecois biker/welder name. Really cool guy, but his english was not very good. One day, in class, he's instructing us on our project, and he says 'go to the store, get a lime, get the softest lime you can find. take the lime, and rub it against your piece until it's smooth.' Everyone in class sat there dumb silent, not knowing what the gently caress he was talking about. Turns out a file in french is un lime (pronounced lih-m). He had forgotten the word 'file' and went with the closest english translation of un lime.
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Apr 24, 2013 03:24
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I laughed way too hard at the bastard file joke. So I've been trolling craigslist for
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Apr 24, 2013 13:47
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Yes. MIG if youre doing car poo poo, TIG if youre fabricating stuff that you can clamp or have room to work in without needing two hands.
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Apr 24, 2013 14:10
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As far as stick welders go, save your beans and get a used Lincoln Idealarc or Miller Dialarc. The AC/DC Hobart Stickmate or Miller Thunderbolt would be a hefty compromise. Anything AC only or tapped transformer is unacceptable. OK, maybe if I was on a deserted island and trying to build a boat to get off I might be interested in using a buzzbox.
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Apr 24, 2013 15:52
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I'm pleased I was able to remove the gearbox index plate without any damage or use of a dremel tool. Three of the pins I was able to punch out from the backside. The fourth had a blind hole, and using some flat head screw drivers starting really small and going progressivly bigger I was able to wedge it out. I got most of the paint on the apron and gearbox off with a wire wheel in an angle grinder. I didn't want to mess up the oilers, however so I stayed clear and am using citristrip in those areas. There are also some nooks and crannies the wheel won't make it in. This is the 2nd coat of citirstip I just put on before work. I expect I may need a third.  Had to make a special tool to remove the nuts for the cross feed and compound tool rest. I don't have pics of them, but the cross feed and compound rest are just about ready for paint. Been using a combination of wire wheel and citristip for them too.  It might be tight to get this done before the end of the month. I plan to take a day or two off next week for a long weekend in the beginning of May, so perhaps then! AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 17:43
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I have a chance to buy a South Bend 9" model C lathe. It looks like it's in good condition (used, not abuse) *but* instead of a 3 jaw chuck it comes with a 4 jaw and it's possibly missing some of the gears. The guy is asking $300 CAD. Good? Bad? Yes? No? Anyone have a 3 jaw chuck that they'll sell me for some magical beans?
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Apr 27, 2013 21:41
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Missing gears is a huge red flag. Missing gears are very difficult and expensive to get.
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Apr 27, 2013 22:34
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so I got around to lathing that 12L14 steel. does anyone know if it has the tendency to self-feed that brass does? I'm seeing some weird shjt when I try to face it off.
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Apr 28, 2013 01:29
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rotor posted:so I got around to lathing that 12L14 steel. does anyone know if it has the tendency to self-feed that brass does? I'm seeing some weird shjt when I try to face it off. This bothers me, you turn things in a lathe. The lathe is the machine, not the action. Now, what do you mean about self feeding, pulling itself into the tool, and what exactly is weird poo poo?
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Apr 28, 2013 01:38
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Random Number posted:This bothers me, you turn things in a lathe. The lathe is the machine, not the action. Now, what do you mean about self feeding, pulling itself into the tool, and what exactly is weird poo poo? oop,ok yeah, it seems to be. sometimes when I face it, it'll be crowned, sometimes it'll be dished, depending on the tool.. I didn't seem to have this behavior with aluminum.
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Apr 28, 2013 01:48
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rotor posted:oop,ok Check your bolts on your tool-post and compound rest, and that the steel is held well enough in the chuck/collet. Steel is way stronger than brass and will move your compound rest or tool-post out of its way if your poo poo isn't secure enough. It sounds like your compound rest is getting pushed around or the steel isn't held tightly enough, just play around with your setup. E: It could be your tool getting pulled around in the tool-holder too, especially if you use hand ground HSS tools.
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Apr 28, 2013 03:47
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apatite posted:Hey cool stuff! I fart around with artsy stuff sometimes and then sell it to people for a massive profit. It's pretty fun. I was inspired by this post and would like to try my hand at making a lamp out of an old trumpet I have sitting in my attic. What would be the best way to affix the bulb socket to the neck of the trumpet? It is pretty thin material.
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Apr 28, 2013 15:51
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I started to experiment with some Naval Jelly yesterday. The handles and graduation dials were in my brass tumbler along with some walnut hulls. The walnuts did well but not as much as I wanted. I've only done one coat of Naval Jelly so far, but the results are promising, A few more coats should yield some very clean metal. I kind of wish I had used this stuff on the lathe bed before I painting it! This pic was taken yesterday after the Naval Jelly experiment. The previous citirstrip coats got all the paint off, but I was left with a nasty residue. I put another coat of citistrip on, then I let it soak.  While it was soaking, I decided to have a couple cold ones with a buddy and grill some food. After the festivities, I went back outside, and then hosed off the parts with a garden hose. The copious amounts of water did a great job at getting every last bit clean. I sprayed the parts down with some WD-40 to sit over night so they wouldn't rust.  This morning I sprayed the inside and outside of the apron and gearbox castings down with engine degreaser, and hosed it off. I repeated this a few times. All that was needed afterwards was a few shots of break cleaner in a few spots and the castings were totally degreased. First time I was able to handle them without nitrile gloves! I then gave them a good rub down with acetone. All the surfaces and bearing holes that aren't getting painted then got a film of Marvel's Mystery Oil applied to them to protect against rust. I then gave the castings a final rub down with acetone in preparation for paint. I took this pic just before I brought them down to the basement.  The apron and gearbox now have their first coat of paint. It took a whole lot more pre-pwork to get these two parts to this point then I had anticipated. I'm happy with the results, however. This evening I plan to finish cleaning up some of the levers, handles, and get the cross feed and compound rest a final cleaning and paint. 
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Apr 28, 2013 20:17
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It turns out the guy was moving and just wanted to get the thing out of his house. When I mentioned the problems with the chuck and gears he said "How about I just give it to you." Well, gently caress. I couldn't not give him something so we eventually settled on $20 and a bottle of wine. So now I have a lathe. Edit: and it turns out it's a Model 5 from the 1930's. ductonius fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Apr 28, 2013 |
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Apr 28, 2013 21:42
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ductonius posted:It turns out the guy was moving and just wanted to get the thing out of his house. When I mentioned the problems with the chuck and gears he said "How about I just give it to you." Well, gently caress. I couldn't not give him something so we eventually settled on $20 and a bottle of wine. Well, you can't really beat that price. Does it work at all? Do you have any pictures?
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Apr 29, 2013 00:11
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Uncle Enzo posted:Well, you can't really beat that price. Does it work at all? Do you have any pictures? Yeah, it runs and the guy has turned things on it, as evidenced by the pile of stuff. I have three pictures I took in the guy's basement. The lathe is in my car right now and my the camera on my phone sucks so bad.   
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Apr 29, 2013 02:03
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ductonius, Awesome find! Time to get her cleaned up and lubed. Congratulations! Took a wire wheel to a good portion of this stuff but it still need some stripper for the knooks and crannies as well as to remove residues. I've found even if the wire wheel makes it look clean, it still needs some stripper. Water really does make cleaning the citistrip up easier!  The handwheel and the knurling on the power feed selector are being stubborn. They get to soak overnight. It just started raining out as I put this on... humidity will keep the gel from drying out too fast   Lots of parts ready for acetone and paint. They are all have a liberal WD-40 coating to keep from rusting till I get to them tomorrow. 
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Apr 29, 2013 06:22
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I made a little scraper knife out of a broken turbine blade today Even at bright yellow the stuff was too hard to work so I had to grind it out, holds an edge pretty well though
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May 1, 2013 07:20
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coldpudding, nice work!! On today's episode of Cooking with AbsentMindedWelder we will be making Gearbox ala South Bend. Ingredients: 1 gearbox 1 can of paint 2 paint brushes, one small, one medium 1 baking sheet lined with tin foil Preheat your oven to 200 F. Set your gearbox on some supports sitting in the cookie sheet with tin foil. Paint the gearbox. The nice part about the cookie sheet while painting is that you can spin it around to get at all angles without moving yourself!  Bake for two hours.  It seemed to have turned out good. This was inspired by the fact it was raining yesterday and I've read about baking enamel before to speed up the curing process and make for a tough finish. We'll see what it's like when it cools down. After I took the gearbox out of the oven, I was about to go to bed, but I got the itch to paint the apron too. It didn't rain at all today so it's pretty dry. I'll let this cure normally because I'm going to bed. 
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May 1, 2013 07:46
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Crazyeyes posted:I was inspired by this post and would like to try my hand at making a lamp out of an old trumpet I have sitting in my attic. What would be the best way to affix the bulb socket to the neck of the trumpet? It is pretty thin material. Before you ruin the trumpet, can you post what brand/model it is. I restore brass instruments for a living, and it would be horrible if you made a lamp out of a collector's item, like so many idiots on eBay do.
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May 4, 2013 06:38
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I wen't out yesterday and picked up a 12 ton shop press. Made easy work of taking apart the reverse gear assembly. I wish I had bought one of these years ago. At this point the apron, gear box, compound rest, cross feed, all the levers, hand wheel, etc all have two coats of paint and are either fully cured or still drying. Their internal parts still need a good cleaning before assembly. Rather then show you pics of what I just did, I'm going to show you a picture of the only parts left that have to be disassembled and paint stripped. 
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May 4, 2013 17:36
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Brekelefuw posted:Before you ruin the trumpet, can you post what brand/model it is. I can understand your concern. This was my dad's from high school. While i doubt it is valuable, I'll look into it.
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May 4, 2013 19:06
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I've been looking at the lathe bed for a while knowing it was going to take alot of work to clean properly and have been dreading the task since. My recent experiences with naval jelly gave me some hope however. On Friday, for some unknown reason, I decided to attack my welding table with a wire wheel in an angle grinder and a few rounds of naval jelly. What I got left was this, with a good film of Marvel's Mystery Oil worked in. This table used to be highly corroded and rusted and had been outdoors for who knows long before I got to it. Now you can touch it with your bare hands and not get anything on your fingers!  So after I finished painting earlier today, I made the decision that I was really going to have to take the lathe bed out in the driveway so I can hose it down after using the naval jelly. An engine hoist made quick work of this job. So here we have it, using a combination of naval jelly, water, scothbrite, paper towels, rags, kerosene, acetone, and MMO, I was left with a very clean lathe bed without using any steel wool or sandpaper. I also used some citistrip in some pesky painted areas with a plastic scraper. It's so clean, I challenge anyone to visit my shop and show me how to get it cleaner.  
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May 5, 2013 00:22
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I can do it without even visiting your shop: abrasive blasting. Your choice of soda, walnut shells or glass beads. Goddamn is it amazing. Looks great though.
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May 5, 2013 02:37
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Abrasive blasting on the ways? I don't think so! The whole idea is to clean it out with removing any metal at all.
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May 5, 2013 03:02
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Soda blasting won't touch aluminum, let alone steel like those ways. It won't remove deep rust but it does a phenomenal job with paint and grease
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May 5, 2013 03:11
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Don't listen to anybody telling you to blast ways. Just put a gently caress load of way oil and assemble after painting.
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May 5, 2013 03:15
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Random Number posted:Don't listen to anybody telling you to blast ways. Just put a gently caress load of way oil and assemble after painting. Trust me, I had no intention of doing such a silly thing. I got a corner of the garage all cleaned up and vacuumed.  And the lathe bed is back where it belongs, with a coating of MMO to keep it from rusting. I'll wash it off with some alcohol and put way oil on before I install the saddle. 
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May 5, 2013 04:32
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I am really surprised that Absentmindedwelder isn't getting more responses on here from his lathe updates. I can't be the only one that cares about this restoration, and I don't post my comments because I talk to him via phone/text/in person atleast once a day. Good job, Absentminded welder! Keep us posted!
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May 5, 2013 07:24
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