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kastein posted:So you're going to want a differential case spreader unless you like trying to pound 5-thou thick round metal shims with a giant hole punched through the middle in between two pieces of metal that are pressed together, edgewise. That sounds like a recipe for bent shims, cursing, and thrown tools to me. Bent shims? Oh no, it's worse than that. They don't bend; they're brittle, and will shatter spectacularly at the drop of a hat. Got to see this happen no less than 5 times at work recently. I thought the dude was going to cry, but it was his fault for trying to bull through the job without a spreader. What's funny, though, is after three days of fighting with it, it turned out Parts had given him the wrong bearings (slightly too big). 
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May 5, 2013 17:21
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I had a feeling it was something best left to a shop, the main thing I was worrying about was setting up the lash and whatnot. Would it be a bit more feasible to simply swap the entire axle? I know with swapping the whole axle the vics pre 99 used a different suspension setup in the rear, how about newer? With this '00 am I stuck with 99-02(03?) axles or how late did they use the same housing? Theres a 09 cvpi I was going to see what it was running for gears (hoping for 3.73 with lock), I know itll be a 31 spline but hell if Im swapping the whole axle may as well upgrade while im at it. EDIT: Well google is my friend, looks like im stuck with 89-02 axles and the only pick it your self style yard around here has either bad info on their cars list or some weird vics, http://www.nordstromsauto.com/upullit/ewe-pullet-vehicle-list.pdf . For a direct axle swap (guts and housing) is it only the 89-02 vics and Grand Marquis that will work? ExtremeODD fucked around with this message at 19:58 on May 5, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 19:43
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kastein posted:drat that's nifty! Thanks a ton for the info, I'll definitely buy a set of those if I do an 8.8 in the future. After thinking back, I guess I used those style on a Ford 10.25 (or it was a 10.5, converted to 10.25 with the r&p swap) and they worked quite well. That was without a case spreader, and they stood up to pounding in and out a few times while I had to play with the pinion shims to get the pattern right. Shims under the cones are kind of a pain, but a hydraulic press and a good bearing splitter make short work of them. Nothing beats beats the Toy/9"/14-bolt/etc side adjuster though. quote:I had a feeling it was something best left to a shop, the main thing I was worrying about was setting up the lash and whatnot. Would it be a bit more feasible to simply swap the entire axle?
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May 6, 2013 06:48
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Glad I called around, got a quote for right around $150 if I bring in everything needed. Are there any complete bearing and shim kits that I could get or do I have to part everything together? Im planning on getting a parts yard 28 spline locker, rebuild kit and all the shims and bearings I need. Anything Im missing?
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May 6, 2013 16:44
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Sounds quite reasonable, especially if that's in-car price, not bare axle dropped off at the shop price. I think you have it covered there - make sure new ring gear bolts and possibly new carrier bearings are included in whatever kit you get, or buy them separately on rockauto. Not sure if the shop will want those nifty split shims or not... e: also, I might recommend buying a new cross shaft retention bolt. I've had them round off and break on me before, and they're cheap, like 6 bucks for a bag of 3, it's better safe than sorry on something like that. IIRC the part number is D8BZ-4241-B but verify that before ordering. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:53 on May 6, 2013 |
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May 6, 2013 16:48
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Talked to a coworker and he had a 8.8 28spline locker lying around from when he had a p71, $20 woot. The carrier has a bit of surface rust but Im sure I can get it hot tanked rather cheap. With the clutch rebuild kit Ive read that your supposed to keep the same thickness as it was before but thats all in reference to a locker thats been in the car already, should I not pack the clutches in and let the shop handle that too? Im going to order: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-8-Ford-Ri...190821421637%26 and Im debating between this http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...CFQFp4Aodfl8AQw or this http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M4700C/Mustang-88-Traction-Lok-Rebuild-Kit-with-Carbon-Discs Not sure which I should go for, Im leaning towards the 2nd one. Between those two Im pretty much set for parts right? EDIT: Is this carrier too far gone rust wise? The gears are untouched and theres only the tiniest spot of rust inside its the outside thats a bit haggard. If I get all the rust off, is it fine to use? The local machine shop is a bit overloaded right now to touch it, was thinking of naval jelly but not entirely sure on all of my options. Also since the gears are good and 28 spline, would it be simpler to find the easiest ford truck to pull a 31 spline housing and throw the guts I have in? 
ExtremeODD fucked around with this message at 17:13 on May 7, 2013 |
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May 6, 2013 22:41
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Nah, that looks mostly like surface rust. You're fine as long as there no major pitting on machined surfaces, I bet. Try electrolytic rust removal (all you nee is a car battery charger, a bucket, some sodium carbonate (NOT bicarbonate) and some sacrificial steel. Google it - it's amazing!) or one of the rust dissolver solutions. either can be done at home and are fairly cheap.
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May 8, 2013 00:32
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ExtremeODD posted:Talked to a coworker and he had a 8.8 28spline locker lying around from when he had a p71, $20 woot. The carrier has a bit of surface rust but Im sure I can get it hot tanked rather cheap. With the clutch rebuild kit Ive read that your supposed to keep the same thickness as it was before but thats all in reference to a locker thats been in the car already, should I not pack the clutches in and let the shop handle that too? I have never heard of a carrier failing on an 8.8 but if one ever was going to it would be this one. Still if the spiders have absolutely positively no rust then youre ok. Gears are typically case hardened, so rust on a gear surface is begging for stress corrosion cracking. Make sure all that rust has gotten off before you install it. Considering most 28-spline posi carriers can be had for $80-100 used I would be surprised if you came out much ahead on this purchase.
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May 8, 2013 00:44
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I hit it a little with a dremel wire wheel on the worst of the spots and theres no pitting. There is a bit of raised spots but I called the gear shop and they said thats never an issue for them. Just went by the junkyard and got the front split bench from a grand marquis with 8 way drivers seat. Had to kinda make the wiring work but the seat works great, is way more comfortable and as a bonus the car always thinks Im buckled in! Planning on grabbing the backseat next week or this weekend.
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May 8, 2013 00:49
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ARGGH, I'm on day 3 of the stereo and alarm install. It's a 2008 and apparently my car has a blend of 3 types of harnesses. It has the stereo plug of the 90's, ignition of a 2008 and most of the body more matches the 2009. The colors don't match poo poo so I have been tracing everything with my multimeter and then it took a poo poo. So pissed. Just have to finish the wiring to the door switches, trunk release, and parking lights.
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May 8, 2013 01:21
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ExtremeODD posted:I hit it a little with a dremel wire wheel on the worst of the spots and theres no pitting. There is a bit of raised spots but I called the gear shop and they said thats never an issue for them. Just went by the junkyard and got the front split bench from a grand marquis with 8 way drivers seat. Had to kinda make the wiring work but the seat works great, is way more comfortable and as a bonus the car always thinks Im buckled in! Planning on grabbing the backseat next week or this weekend. Make sure there is absolutely no rust on the machined surfaces for the spider and side gears, the cross shaft, and the machined face where the ring gear sits. Other than that, shouldn't be an issue. if there is any significant patterning (not even pitting, just patterning is probably bad here) on the ring gear mounting surface it's junk, IMO. The ring gear bolts don't actually handle any of the rotational forces, just the clamping of the ring gear machined back face onto the machined mounting flange on the differential carrier. So if that surface is etched, pitted, or otherwise affected by the rust, you may not get enough clamping force to keep it in place. If it's just a light powdery rust you should probably be fine. Definitely replace those carrier bearings, though. They're junk, I guarantee it.
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May 8, 2013 04:00
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Red_October_7000 posted:Just for the sake of argument, what else fits in the 4.6's place? 460 Big-block? 10cyl. from a van? I bet if the 10cyl. fit it'd go like stink. I've always had the idea kicking around my head to combine the frame and suspension from a P71 with the body of an old square Town Car, the 10-cylinder motor from a commercial truck, and some kind of stick-shift. Is that just a pipe-dream, or something do-able? People have swapped in pretty much everything in the Modular family, but in general the community position seems to be that it's not worth the trouble to do anything but build up 2V 4.6s. The DOHC engines have clearance problems with the valvetrain, IIRC the V10 had accessory mounting issues, and the 5.4L 2V doesn't breathe well at high RPMs and is thus more suited for truck use. There's such an aftermarket available for the plain old 2V that it's just not worth the trouble. edit: forgot the second part. Stick shift however is perfectly doable on the other hand and is rather simple, as far as swapping a manual in where one never was can be. From memory it's mostly cut a hole in the floor and bolt in Mustang bits. You'll need a custom length driveshaft and I think the Mustang pedal assembly needs slight modification (it was either the Panther or the MN12 T-Bird I remember this from). The ECU will complain about the lack of a transmission, but if the auto shifter is in neutral it'll run fine (in park it limits RPM). EEC-IV and EEC-V systems are well known, so any tuning shop that does Ford ECUs can make it happy and I think even a few of the handheld programmers might do it. ExtremeODD posted:For a direct axle swap (guts and housing) is it only the 89-02 vics and Grand Marquis that will work? The reason it cuts off at '02 is the '03 models got a new chassis which also moved the hubs further out up front, I assume the rear axle was likewise widened. If you see a '98-02 parked next to an '03+ the difference in wheel offset is pretty obvious. wolrah fucked around with this message at 04:38 on May 9, 2013 |
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May 8, 2013 17:52
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Makes perfect sense, holding off for now on the swap due to life stuff . However the junkyard has a plethora of random interior bits to mix and match a decent setup. How possible is it to swap in the keypad locking system? (obviously door swapping involved) I really liked it on my old 90 mark vii, so very useful.
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May 8, 2013 23:47
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ExtremeODD posted:On these cars how hard would it be to install a trac lock unit? It's pretty awesome, though. Last time it snowed here in East Texas, P71s were pretty much the only cars on the road (between the cops and my low-man-on-the-totem-pole-at-the-newspaper rear end), so I took the scenic route through downtown to the office, drifting through every intersection. ExtremeODD posted:Makes perfect sense, holding off for now on the swap due to life stuff . However the junkyard has a plethora of random interior bits to mix and match a decent setup. How possible is it to swap in the keypad locking system? (obviously door swapping involved) I really liked it on my old 90 mark vii, so very useful. Anybody ever seen a CNG-powered Crown Vic, or do they only exist to waste another five seconds of my life at the parts store when the guy asks what engine I have? On the other hand, you don't have to know the stock tire size, just tell the guy at the tire shop "I need cop car tires, [model year]" and he knows the numbers to look up.
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May 10, 2013 05:20
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:Anybody ever seen a CNG-powered Crown Vic, or do they only exist to waste another five seconds of my life at the parts store when the guy asks what engine I have? On the other hand, you don't have to know the stock tire size, just tell the guy at the tire shop "I need cop car tires, [model year]" and he knows the numbers to look up. I've seen a number of CNG-badged public service Crown Vics here in the DFW area. DART, county inspectors, that sort of thing.
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May 10, 2013 05:48
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There are several Vics for sale up in phoenix that are CNG. And other news $115 for the ford dealer to plug in their IDS tool for 10min and turn on my cruise control and dome light. What a rip, but whatever I want to drive it all over CA next week and that will be nice to have CC for future road tripping too.
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May 10, 2013 06:28
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Delivery McGee posted:It was a factory option, so it shouldn't be any more difficult than any other rearend swap; buy the center unit, throw it in. Though I've heard rearend swaps are second only to automatic transmissions in having to get it exactly right. I probably should replace the clutches in mine, but I'm scared to crack it open. Swapping the whole rearend as a unit including the housing is an afternoon job and any competent shadetree mechanic should be able to do it, at least if it's anywhere near as easy as Explorers are. I can have an explorer rear out in under 45 minutes if I cut a few of the more obstinate bolts. The crown vic has a more complicated suspension (AKA not leaf spring) but still, it should not be hard. Swapping just the ring gear carrier or a ring/pinion set is a very careful, precision task - it's fun, but definitely not something you can do without precision measuring tools. I've spent around $100 on just measuring tools for it and that is all harbor freight prices (they aren't the best tools, but it got the job done.) Replacing clutches isn't that bad, all you need is something to get the cover off, a small propane or butane torch to heat the carrier right where the cross shaft retention bolt goes through, a 5/16 6-point box wrench (damnit, buy a 6 point one, trust me on this) and the usual assortment of prying tools, small picks, poking sticks, etc. I've never put an LSD one back together, getting the S-shaped preload spring back in looks like it might be a pain in the rear end, but everything else about it is pretty easy and the worst part will be covering yourself up to the elbows in used diff lube in the process. You shouldn't even have to pull the bearing caps or remove the ring gear+carrier, so it's all fairly non precise work.
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May 10, 2013 08:06
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Went to the yard again yesterday to grab the matching backseat, now I have a matching blue leather seat set from a 92-5 (forgot the year) grand marq. Sadly that was about the best of what they had available but its a nice step up from the stock copfart seats. I got to checking a few things and what I thought was simply a few noisy pulleys turned out to be a bit more severe. First I have the wonderful timing chain eating its guides deal (TSB 03-15-7) and I noticed my ac pulley is locking up randomly when the ac isnt on. Since my funds are always short Ill probably do the ac bypass route for now, which leads me to a simple question: Can one simply remove the compressor and cap off the lines for later fixing? I dont want to trash the rest of the system by being exposed to open air for a while. Also anyone know roughly what a shop charges for the timing chain tsb? I know I can do it, but I really dont want to gently caress anything up and I dont have a good way to get the crank bolt back on. Some pics of the car:   Visible proof of no LSD, only on the passenger side.      And finally a sample of that wonderful sewing machine thats under the hood. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EMnuFZSrbU
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May 12, 2013 18:46
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Why not pull the plug to the AC compressor? Or is it just spinning with out the ac on?
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May 13, 2013 04:49
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There's always a belt running around the a/c pulley. Turning the a/c on just operates an electric clutch which engages the a/c compressor. So if the a/c pulley bearing is stuffed, it's going to be noisy (and eventually seize up and chew the ancillary/main 'v'/'serpentine' belt up and leave you stranded somewhere).
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May 13, 2013 18:54
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So I made this post a while ago:alternate.eago posted:I have the opportunity to buy an older generation Mercury Marquee (it may be older than 1993), with a new 302, and rebuilt transmission (all documented) for $1800. I also know it was a one owner car, and all work that had ever been done to it has supporting documentation. Should I do this? I was met with this: InitialDave posted:I believe he may be referring to the perceived wisdom, as indeed borne out in every 14 INCH PSYLOCIBE DICK DETECTIVE MD thread up until this one, that the purchase price of an older car should be considered nothing more than a downpayment. And that it shall poo poo spiders and disappointment over all that you love and cherish. Fucknag posted:Even the good 302s have issues above 400HP or so with the blocks splitting, don't they? I bought it.  It actually turned out to be an 89 Crown Vic LTD. The guy I bought it from was a huge GM guy, and this was his spouse's car, and because this was a Ford, he didn't care to keep it. It has the 5.0. It has had a bunch of work done to it recently. The exhaust leak it has will help me justify headers and glasspacks.  That picture makes the paint look a lot better than it is. Making a velour living room set do burnouts is awesome.
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May 13, 2013 19:08
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So what are the main differences a Crown Vic sport and a Police Interceptor? Besides the nicer interior and floor shifter, are there many big differences? I only ask cause I found this.... Crown Victoria Sport all black 2001 - $2500 (Seattle)
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May 13, 2013 20:32
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Off the top of my head, 1" lower ride height from CVPI, and I don't know if it includes the engine oil cooler or upgraded transmission cooler. Idle will be set for 50rpm lower, and the shocks/suspension might not be heavy duty. But realistically, not many differences.
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May 13, 2013 21:48
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Fo3 posted:There's always a belt running around the a/c pulley. Turning the a/c on just operates an electric clutch which engages the a/c compressor. For what it's worth, if this starts to happen and you don't want to replace the unit for whatever reason, you can get a dummy pulley that's literally just a pulley mounted on a bracket that bolts in where the AC should be.
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May 13, 2013 22:24
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 This happened today. Only 10k to go until I hit the 200k mark 
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May 14, 2013 03:51
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:Off the top of my head, 1" lower ride height from CVPI, and I don't know if it includes the engine oil cooler or upgraded transmission cooler. Idle will be set for 50rpm lower, and the shocks/suspension might not be heavy duty. But realistically, not many differences. All Sports have air ride in the rear and basically come fully loaded from the factory. But they do not have the heavy duty upgrades that the P71's have like silicone hoses, bigger alternator, front springs, etc. That's a pretty good price for a sport, too bad they swapped the 17" alloys for steelies 
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May 14, 2013 06:38
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leica posted:All Sports have air ride in the rear and basically come fully loaded from the factory. I prefer the black steelies from the CVPI personally, so I would have probably done the same thing. So it it already has the rear air ride, i would just have to remove the auto leveling part and make it manually controlled, then figure out how to bag the front......
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May 14, 2013 20:52
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alternate.eago posted:So I made this post a while ago: I was driving this beast today after some tooling around town and getting some things done and i started backing down my driveway and as i press the brake pedal and absolutely nothing happens. Well i say nothing but it just goes straight to the floor, and i just roll down hill into the street. Not fun. its sitting in the driveway and i now need to figure out what happened. Seems to be fluid in the master. no obv. leaks under the car that i can see, i haven't tried pumping the brakes and checking again but im assuming its either the master is toast or a hole in a line. What size is the brake line on these?
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May 15, 2013 04:54
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Negromancer posted:I prefer the black steelies from the CVPI personally, so I would have probably done the same thing. Pretty much. But keep in mind with those miles if the rear air springs are the originals I guarantee they will need to be replaced. My car has 140K and here's what happens after it sits for a day:   I have a replacement kit, just waiting for time to install it.
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May 15, 2013 06:52
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Does the '91 Colony Park have a dimmer switch? The dash lights on mine are having problems and I want to confirm I'm not just a massive idiot before I look into fixing it.
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May 15, 2013 15:43
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ajcz posted:I was driving this beast today after some tooling around town and getting some things done and i started backing down my driveway and as i press the brake pedal and absolutely nothing happens. Well i say nothing but it just goes straight to the floor, and i just roll down hill into the street. Not fun. its sitting in the driveway and i now need to figure out what happened. Could just be the seals in the master poo poo the bed. Or a blown rear wheel cylinder seal, if your drum is watertight or caked enough with brake dust. 
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May 15, 2013 16:19
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leica posted:Pretty much. But keep in mind with those miles if the rear air springs are the originals I guarantee they will need to be replaced. For some reason.... if the front was the same as the rear.... that looks really good.
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May 15, 2013 20:47
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leica posted:Pretty much. But keep in mind with those miles if the rear air springs are the originals I guarantee they will need to be replaced. Yeah my Lincoln continental does the same. I found a Ford tech in the LA area who apparently freelances going around replacing bags on your Mercury/Lincoln/Ford for a flat rate. I'm thinking of using him because..  Is there hard to find small trim parts and the like people are looking for their CV's or Towncars? Something I can grab for you guys? I'm heading back down there this weekend to get some misc items for my Lincoln. I went parts crawling for my Lincoln in Long Beach at 3 pick and pulls, probably saw over 100 Panthers in various states but exactly one Continental in that entire day 
Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 03:49 on May 16, 2013 |
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May 16, 2013 03:42
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This was a fun trip to 711 
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May 16, 2013 23:40
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They were all probably jealous of the tint on yours......
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May 16, 2013 23:45
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I came out of the 711 andthe and they were both checking out my car so I joked that theirs were a lot shinier than mine. So they began asking me questions about how much I got it for, SPECIFICALLY said the tint looked good, asked if it was just a security Vic but I pointed out where all the service equipment was removed. Talked to them for ten minutes or so, all in all these guys were pretty chill.
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May 17, 2013 00:08
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So you haven't mentioned 14", how are you liking the car overall so far?
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May 17, 2013 04:17
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It's like driving a giant squeaky fold out bed that scares people. I love it.
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May 17, 2013 04:22
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Oh, yeah...I almost forgot to start doing "before" pic dumps to this thread of cop cars. I think this is the impala (sorry) but I'll get the CV at some point. Just as soon as one of the idiots un-cop-proofs the radio or laptop in it (which will be soon, as it's a pool car). Just to give you guys some whacker inspiration.
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May 17, 2013 04:32
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Motronic posted:Oh, yeah...I almost forgot to start doing "before" pic dumps to this thread of cop cars. Wow... a Motorola Radio. We used to have those on the railroad both engine and portables. They couldn't upgrade the old Motorolas to the new digital poo poo, so they bought these god awful JEM engine radios and Kenwood handsets. I hear lots of "what" and "I can't hear you". I hear them loud and clear..... because my Motorola Handset was upgradable. 
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May 17, 2013 05:41
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