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Seat Safety Switch posted:I wouldn't worry about it in neutral. High pressure sprays will do that. If you don't mind swirls, touch car washes are so much better than touchless. Especially if your car is as dirty as mine usually are when I take them to a car wash. I've never had a touchless car wash get all the dirt off the car.
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May 4, 2013 17:45
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Finished the Stage 2 upgrade on my Forester just before lunch. Went pretty good except for the oxygen sensor. I hit everything with PB Blaster last night when I got home and when I went out a little later, I was curious so I put a breaker bar on the turbo bolts and was able to get them all loose. I hadn't planned on starting it last night, but I pulled out the downpipe and went after the oxygen sensor. It was seriously stuck and I ended up having to heat it up with the torch to get it loose. I've got another one on order in case I somehow damaged it getting it out. The new downpipe went in easily and I flashed it to Stage 2. So far so good, definitely an improvement.
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May 4, 2013 18:24
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 Lowered a tiny bit.
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May 4, 2013 18:54
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Finally had a chance to wash the GC8. I couldn't be happier with it, just need to re-black a piece of trim on the rear passenger side (not visible in this pic) and the exterior will be nearly perfect.
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May 5, 2013 00:22
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Larrymer posted:
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May 5, 2013 04:30
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Larrymer posted:
Looks good, although... VelociBacon posted:Finally had a chance to wash the GC8. I couldn't be happier with it, just need to re-black a piece of trim on the rear passenger side (not visible in this pic) and the exterior will be nearly perfect. I love this 
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May 5, 2013 05:21
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Anyone have recommendations on driveline fluid? The DCCD and the rear LSD are I believe plated LSD's and the front is helical. I'm paranoid about putting in the wrong fluid. Googling around I find what I've come to expect as standard for gc8 info - all totally contradictory and mostly opinion based. The car is used as a daily driver with some autox/rallyX in the future and maybe the rare track day. Sockington posted:
Thanks! Once I borrow a dslr I'll take some better pics of the commemorative badges etc.
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May 5, 2013 08:13
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I think subaru has some fancy LSD additive you add to extra-S for the few years they put in a clutch type LSD.
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May 5, 2013 08:49
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I gave her a good wash and wax, and Rain-X'd all the windows. I've got some Rally Armor mudflaps I'll be putting on this week as well. 
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May 5, 2013 17:43
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For whatever reason, the fog light area of you car looks almost digital in this picture. Also, check out awdpirates.net for local deals/news/etc.
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May 5, 2013 23:30
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Meat Mitts posted:I gave her a good wash and wax, and Rain-X'd all the windows. I've got some Rally Armor mudflaps I'll be putting on this week as well. What color flaps did you get? Your car is identical style and color as mine.
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May 5, 2013 23:30
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Two questions: a) I'm considering heat wrapping the downpipe and/or putting a turbo blanket on, does this affect life of the turbo at all? I'm using a factory VF24 turbo, 80xxx km on it and I have no plans to upgrade. I've read that you can increase your mean oil temperature by doing this and thats something I'd like to avoid if possible. I also live in Vancouver where it rains nearly every day and have heard the wrap can hold moisture against the surface they're wrapped on - there any benefit to a blanket without wrapping the downpipe? b) My sound deadening/heat dampening under the hood is very haggard. I'd like to replace it but I think I'm super unlikely to find some for my car (GC STi). Has anyone used another material for the same purpose? Is it totally alright for the paint to just remove it?
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May 6, 2013 01:57
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:For whatever reason, the fog light area of you car looks almost digital in this picture. Also, check out awdpirates.net for local deals/news/etc. I used mspaint to shrink the picture down...it seemed to pixelate everything in the process. Maybe that's why. Farking Bastage posted:What color flaps did you get? Your car is identical style and color as mine. I went with the urethane/black with red logo mudflaps. I'll post pictures once I install them.
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May 6, 2013 02:29
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VelociBacon posted:Two questions: a) I'm considering heat wrapping the downpipe and/or putting a turbo blanket on, does this affect life of the turbo at all? I'm using a factory VF24 turbo, 80xxx km on it and I have no plans to upgrade. I've read that you can increase your mean oil temperature by doing this and thats something I'd like to avoid if possible. I also live in Vancouver where it rains nearly every day and have heard the wrap can hold moisture against the surface they're wrapped on - there any benefit to a blanket without wrapping the downpipe?
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May 6, 2013 09:39
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Any tips on applying tail light overlays? I have a '13 hatch, and the ALTEZZA JDM LITE YO tails kind of bother me, and I'm thinking of getting some vinyl overlays from bluebatoverlays.com.
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May 6, 2013 14:55
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You should be able to just get the part number for the underhood blanket and order a new one. There were some GC/GFs here with hood scoops so the blanket already fits them - I would actually be surprised if it's a special WRX/STI part.
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May 6, 2013 15:18
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You should be able to just get the part number for the underhood blanket and order a new one. There were some GC/GFs here with hood scoops so the blanket already fits them - I would actually be surprised if it's a special WRX/STI part. Those hood scoops were blocked though, so I'd look at them to see if they actually have a cut out.
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May 6, 2013 16:01
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They do, I have one (and the covers are just bolted on). I can take a picture of the underside of mine later today and see if the measurements match up, though.
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May 6, 2013 17:28
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BoyBlunder posted:Any tips on applying tail light overlays? I have a '13 hatch, and the ALTEZZA JDM LITE YO tails kind of bother me, and I'm thinking of getting some vinyl overlays from bluebatoverlays.com. Grab a cheap heat gun for stretching and have plenty of patience. Mine started to peel and crack less than six months after applying, so I said gently caress it, and painted them maserati style. 
McSpatula fucked around with this message at 21:10 on May 6, 2013 |
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May 6, 2013 21:05
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Seat Safety Switch posted:They do, I have one (and the covers are just bolted on). I can take a picture of the underside of mine later today and see if the measurements match up, though. That would be great! Even just a general photo would be enough without measurements, where it's molded up into the hood seems specific enough that I should be able to tell. I'll also call my local dealership.
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May 6, 2013 21:36
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The Saabaru is driving me nuts. Had door replaced after someone hit it while parked. Made wind noise afterwards at freeway speeds here: Went back to body shop, had window adjusted. Didn't fix it. Had weather stripping on chassis side replaced today. Didn't fix it. I'm hoping it's the weather stripping on the door side, but if it's not, I'm guessing the used door they chose as a replacement is hosed somehow. They keep telling me they don't hear the noise. I have good hearing, but not great, and it's pretty evident to me. I'm going to sound like the perfectionist customer from hell. I wish I had chosen a body shop with staff that can hear. Edit: here's audio of the noise, you have to turn your volume way up to hear it (crackling noise) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJmZJqMU5gY blk fucked around with this message at 03:06 on May 7, 2013 |
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May 7, 2013 02:58
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Frameless? If you push on the window, how much does it move? If it is any more that very little, there is a clip in there that needs to be replaced. Had something similar on my pass side.
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May 7, 2013 03:04
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VelociBacon posted:That would be great! Even just a general photo would be enough without measurements, where it's molded up into the hood seems specific enough that I should be able to tell. 
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May 7, 2013 04:16
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nm posted:Frameless? If you push on the window, how much does it move? If it is any more that very little, there is a clip in there that needs to be replaced. Had something similar on my pass side. Frameless. Window doesn't really move. However, I measured the panel gap on the original passenger door and the replacement driver door. The replacement door somehow has 7 mm gap between it and the B pillar. The passenger door only has 5. I'm wondering if they used a Subaru door and if it isn't exactly the same size as the Saabaru door.
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May 7, 2013 04:20
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It should be the same size. If doors are like fenders you can sometimes 'walk' the hinge around on the bolts a bit to make more/less clearance, or (for the door only) adjust/shim the striker.
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May 7, 2013 04:22
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Thank you for this pic. I'll go take a look at mine and see if they're similar.
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May 7, 2013 05:45
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So on my first long drive after upgrading to Stage 2 on my Forester, I hooked up my AP as a boost gauge since I don't have a mechanical gauge. Pretty sure I have a boost leak, I'm not even hitting 11 psi, the Cobb map is supposed to be 14.5 psi. I did some datalogging, here is a good segment:  Where should I start looking? I had a leak between the turbo and the up-pipe earlier this year, but I had that fixed several months ago.
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May 7, 2013 11:02
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 Such good taste in cars, such bad taste in beer.
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May 7, 2013 19:24
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Looks like I'm getting a new WRX later this month. I had to basically take what they could find and the one I put a deposit down on has the side body molding. Only problem is I'm not a huge fan of how the car looks with the side molding. Are these so functional that I'd be crazy to remove/get the dealer to remove them? Is it possible to remove/have the dealer remove them without damage?
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May 7, 2013 20:54
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LordOfThePants posted:So on my first long drive after upgrading to Stage 2 on my Forester, I hooked up my AP as a boost gauge since I don't have a mechanical gauge. Pretty sure I have a boost leak, I'm not even hitting 11 psi, the Cobb map is supposed to be 14.5 psi. I did some datalogging, here is a good segment: Try the High Wastegate map first just to see if that fixes it. Also, go WOT through a whole gear. Yakattak fucked around with this message at 03:44 on May 8, 2013 |
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May 8, 2013 03:04
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blk posted:
I also drive a Subaru and like Rolling Rock. 
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May 8, 2013 03:08
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Braggo posted:Looks like I'm getting a new WRX later this month. I had to basically take what they could find and the one I put a deposit down on has the side body molding. Only problem is I'm not a huge fan of how the car looks with the side molding. Are these so functional that I'd be crazy to remove/get the dealer to remove them? Is it possible to remove/have the dealer remove them without damage? Which side moulding are you talking about? I can't find any pics of one with any.
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May 8, 2013 08:18
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Yakattak posted:Try the High Wastegate map first just to see if that fixes it. Also, go WOT through a whole gear. There isn't a High Wastegate map for the Forester. It looks like the options are a professional tune or adjust the wastegate actuator arm. I might try adjusting the arm tonight to see if that fixes it.
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May 8, 2013 11:12
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VelociBacon posted:Which side moulding are you talking about? I can't find any pics of one with any. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/wrxsti/wrxsti2012photos1.html has a few pictures of it. It looks like they just attach with an adhesive so a heat gun may work. I was just hoping someone had some experience with them.
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May 8, 2013 12:44
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I wouldn't mess with it. Too risky.
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May 8, 2013 13:20
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Braggo posted:http://www.cars101.com/subaru/wrxsti/wrxsti2012photos1.html has a few pictures of it. It looks like they just attach with an adhesive so a heat gun may work. I was just hoping someone had some experience with them. Those side moldings are almost certainly held on with double sided 3m automotive tape. The safest way I have found to remove this stuff is to get some "spiderwire" braided fishing line. Clip off a length of about a foot and a half and "saw" through the adhesive kind of like you would if you were flossing your teeth. If you are careful with the angle you hold the ends at, the only thing you will touch is the tape. Once you've done that, the part still attached to the car will come off slowly without a heat gun, or quickly with one. This way there is zero chance of damaging the moldings so you can save them in case you ever sell the car and the buyer wants them. Or you could just put them up on eBay. With the contour of the doors they are pretty useless for preventing many door dings anyway.
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May 8, 2013 14:43
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Going to pull the motor this weekend on my friends '04 Impreza 2.5TS wagon, SOHC. Has a blown headgasket. Any tips? We are going to rent an engine hoist for the weekend and power it oout. Neither of us have ever removed an engine before but we have done a decent amount of work on the car so it should hopefully go smoothly, but rusty bolts are our main concern. I will take a ton of pictures for the sake of putting it back together and as something to post.
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May 8, 2013 15:18
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Ezrem posted:Those side moldings are almost certainly held on with double sided 3m automotive tape. This is what I was hoping for, awesome news. Thanks!
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May 8, 2013 15:59
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Voltage posted:Going to pull the motor this weekend on my friends '04 Impreza 2.5TS wagon, SOHC. Has a blown headgasket. Any tips? We are going to rent an engine hoist for the weekend and power it oout. Neither of us have ever removed an engine before but we have done a decent amount of work on the car so it should hopefully go smoothly, but rusty bolts are our main concern. Here you go: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t63237-diy-engine-removal.html Single cam engine removal. It's for a GC, but a GD is close enough. Don't take the exhaust apart, take it off as one big piece. Use the good gaskets. Part numbers are in the OP. If you get stuck ask on here and we should have a quick answer.
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May 8, 2013 16:28
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Ezrem posted:Those side moldings are almost certainly held on with double sided 3m automotive tape. Are you sure? When I did my 99 RS side molding removal, I had to weld in the holes the clips left behind.
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May 8, 2013 16:32
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