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I got a few rolls of 120 Agfa 200x in a batch of old film I bought the other day. It's B&W slide film, and there are a couple of places that will still develop it, but they're expensive and apparently turn around us very slow. Can I get the chemicals to do it myself? I'm guessing that if I use a standard B&W neg developer I'll probably still get something out of it but it'd be cool to have actual positives. While I was Googling around I also read a bit about reverse processing normal B&W film into slides, anyone tried that?
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May 10, 2013 21:34
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big scary monsters posted:I got a few rolls of 120 Agfa 200x in a batch of old film I bought the other day. It's B&W slide film, and there are a couple of places that will still develop it, but they're expensive and apparently turn around us very slow. Can I get the chemicals to do it myself? I'm guessing that if I use a standard B&W neg developer I'll probably still get something out of it but it'd be cool to have actual positives. You will get a negative out of it. Probably a really low-contrast one I'd think, since they probably washed something else in to bind to the unreduced silver (assuming it's analogous to the coupler-dye process of E-6). Here's Ilford's procedure for B+W reversal processing: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20061291034093.pdf Good luck, if you try it please report back because I've always wanted to try it as well.
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May 10, 2013 21:38
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big scary monsters posted:I got a few rolls of 120 Agfa 200x in a batch of old film I bought the other day. It's B&W slide film, and there are a couple of places that will still develop it, but they're expensive and apparently turn around us very slow. Can I get the chemicals to do it myself? I'm guessing that if I use a standard B&W neg developer I'll probably still get something out of it but it'd be cool to have actual positives. I have an ancient (probably early or mid 90's) B/W reversal chemistry kit from Tetenal, unopened. I'm not sure if the developers in it are still good, but the other chemicals probably are. I got it for free myself, and doubt I'll ever get to use it, so you can have it for the shipping cost. It's located in Copenhagen, which isn't where I live currently, but will be visiting next week.
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May 10, 2013 21:58
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That would be really awesome, thank you! Do you have PMs?
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May 10, 2013 22:01
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Paul MaudDib posted:You will get a negative out of it. Probably a really low-contrast one I'd think, since they probably washed something else in to bind to the unreduced silver (assuming it's analogous to the coupler-dye process of E-6). In my experience, actually, processing Scala/200x as a negative gives you pretty high contrast and very sharp acutance; it's been a while but I remember thinking it looked something like other films processed in D-19. Word is that all the positive magic is in the process; the film itself is pretty much a standard black and white emulsion with about 30% more silver and a sturdier-than-usual backing (to help it survive the bleach steps).
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May 10, 2013 22:03
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Zenostein posted:This'll sound like a silly question, but what's the point of pushing something like HP5?  Transition by atomicthumbs, on Flickr  Turbine Mast by atomicthumbs, on Flickr  Sea by atomicthumbs, on Flickr
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May 10, 2013 22:04
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big scary monsters posted:That would be really awesome, thank you! Do you have PMs? Yeah. Taking it there.
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May 10, 2013 22:06
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How do you guys store your negatives? I bought some plastic holders that go in a binder, but it looks like they all got scratched, and one strip of five shots that I left out got ruined, and it had one of my favorite shots on it. The sheets that negatives come back from the lab in seem to be pliable enough to get the negs in without scratching, but I haven't seen those in the local shops at all.
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May 10, 2013 23:53
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Mr. Powers posted:How do you guys store your negatives? I bought some plastic holders that go in a binder, but it looks like they all got scratched, and one strip of five shots that I left out got ruined, and it had one of my favorite shots on it. Your local shops don't carry Printfile pages? I'd either ask them to order some for you, or just shop online a little (they're a little less than $20 for a 100-pack on B&H, a little more than that on Amazon usually). If you're shooting 35mm and doing contact sheets you may have to look around for the right arrangement to fit 36+ exposures,, but other than that I've never had any reason to complain.
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May 11, 2013 00:12
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I use Printfile as well. No complaints, except when I cut the negs a bit crookedly and they snag going into the sleeve. I haven't had any scratches like you describe.
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May 11, 2013 00:16
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I use PrintFile sleeves as well, although getting an extra frame on a roll leads to all kinds of  I've got a big archival binder that came with a dust sleeve I really like. Can't remember the name of it, pretty sure it's PrintFile also though.
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May 11, 2013 00:55
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 Birthday, 1978 by atomicthumbs, on Flickr Apparently disposable cameras have secret film in them. The rebate on this one says "Kodak GT 800-5".
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May 11, 2013 02:38
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atomicthumbs posted:Apparently disposable cameras have secret film in them. The rebate on this one says "Kodak GT 800-5". That's just Kodak Max Zoom 800.
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May 11, 2013 05:42
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Was in the city the other day on my way to Adorama. As I was walking up 6th Ave, who do I bump into but the famed Louis Mendes, there, resting casually up against the wall with his infamous 4x5 Graphlex. I say "hey!" and after exchanging some basic pleasantries I asked if I could take his picture. He was cool about it, but right at the moment my Hasselblad jammed. It needs a CLA, I don't think it's a major problem, but we both stood there for about 5 minutes trying to diagnose it and realized it was not fixable by us. He directed me to somebody in Adorama who knew a lot about Hasselblads and maybe he could fix it if it was something simple. (He couldn't fix it). So that was my first run-in with Louis Mendes a little over a week ago. Then, by chance, I was in Adorama earlier this week and saw him again! This time I had my Pentax with me, as my Hasselblad is still out of commission and I have yet to get it repaired. I got my picture of Louis, we'll see how it turns out. I actually took two. Okay, so big deal, I took a picture of Louis Mendes. But he's such a staple of NY that taking his photo isn't a whole lot different than taking a picture of the Statue of Liberty or the Empire State Building. He's just an icon, really. But then he offered to take my picture with his Crown Graphic. I said "sure!" He was shooting Polaroid at the time but hey, a picture from Louis Mendes? Cool! I guess he's going through a phase of 'dragging the shutter' as they say: shooting at a very slow shutter speed so that passersby and cars are blurry, but using flash to isolate the subject, keeping them steady and in focus while everything else is blurry. (If you're not familiar with the technique, and I know a lot of you are and I'm just beating a dead horse, you see it a lot in wedding reception photos.) So he takes my picture, and as we wait for the Polaroid to develop we start talking about photography. Things are going cool, the conversation is going smoothly, and after a few minutes the the Polaroid finally comes into view. But before he hands it to me he says "that'll be $20 please." I was a little taken aback. I didn't know he was going to ask me for money and I only had a few singles on me at the time, and I told him such. He said "well there's an ATM across the street. I'll wait here." So I crossed the street, drew money out of the machine (wasn't my bank so that will cost me $5 in charges), all the while knowing there was something very wrong about this. I was also kind-of broke at the moment so it was a lot of money to me. I crossed back over and gave him the cash. He put the Polaroid in a card and signed it Louis Mendes 2013. While I was handing him the money it dawned on me: this is his scam. He asks unsuspecting people if he can take a photo of them without telling them that he's going to want money for it. He's recognizable and most people say yes. And then, while the Polaroid is developing he starts chatting to them and being very friendly. And when he asks you you for payment it comes as a surprise. But for me, and I would imagine for a lot of people, I somehow felt obligated (cornered, maybe?) to pay him for it. And so that's it, that's his scam. He waits outside Adorama, (where many a photographer visits), just opposite the Chase bank, waiting for unsuspecting customers to come his way. And the funny thing is, if you do a Google Image Search for him you'll find lots of pictures that were taken of him by other photographers; and in many of the photos he's in his same corner - right outside Adorama opposite the bank. What a loving hack! For your viewing pleasure, here is Louis Mendes' photograph of me, for $20.  It looks pretty awful in person, I think my photo makes it look better than it really is. Edit: He also does this outside B&H and other iconic places. Mannequin fucked around with this message at 08:48 on May 11, 2013 |
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May 11, 2013 05:56
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Yond Cassius posted:Your local shops don't carry Printfile pages? I'd either ask them to order some for you, or just shop online a little (they're a little less than $20 for a 100-pack on B&H, a little more than that on Amazon usually). If you're shooting 35mm and doing contact sheets you may have to look around for the right arrangement to fit 36+ exposures,, but other than that I've never had any reason to complain. So, I went and checked and this is exactly what I have, the 7x5 35mm sheets. I had a heck of a time getting the negatives in. Is there a technique to it or did I just hamfist it?
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May 11, 2013 07:27
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Mannequin posted:What a loving hack!
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May 11, 2013 07:41
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Saint Fu posted:Send someone from your NY photo group to take a picture of him with a mini instax then charge him $40 see what he does and report back. Send people with increasingly silly cameras that ask for larger amounts of money, ending in the grand finale of making an oil painting of him then demanding $1000.
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May 11, 2013 07:49
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He won't pay for it, which is always an option. No one can force you to buy something.
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May 11, 2013 07:55
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Should have charged him $30 for your hip-hop CD.
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May 11, 2013 10:06
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dukeku posted:He won't pay for it, which is always an option. No one can force you to buy something. Don't try to ruin our cunning plan with your fancy logic.
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May 11, 2013 10:27
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Quantum of Phallus posted:Should have charged him $30 for your hip-hop CD. Hahahaha very good. Or next time I'll just walk around with a bunch of fliers and force him to take one.
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May 11, 2013 17:05
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Mr. Powers posted:So, I went and checked and this is exactly what I have, the 7x5 35mm sheets. I had a heck of a time getting the negatives in. Is there a technique to it or did I just hamfist it? Interesting... for 35mm, I always "tip" them in from the three-hole side (set one corner on the little bonded line inside the page, then bring the strip up in-line, so the top corner pulls into the channel) and then shimmy them in from there. Once in a while if a particular channel is being stubborn, I may have to push a chopstick through it or something. Patience is a virtue, but I've never had any real trouble. What seems to be your problem, exactly?
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May 11, 2013 18:16
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Yond Cassius posted:Interesting... for 35mm, I always "tip" them in from the three-hole side (set one corner on the little bonded line inside the page, then bring the strip up in-line, so the top corner pulls into the channel) and then shimmy them in from there. Once in a while if a particular channel is being stubborn, I may have to push a chopstick through it or something. Patience is a virtue, but I've never had any real trouble. The film was sticking in the sleeve. The chopstick idea probably would have done the trick.
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May 11, 2013 19:14
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My experience is that when film sticks to anything, but sleeves and the like in particular, it's because it isn't completely dry. Make sure your negatives are bone dry before you try to archive them. The only trouble I have ever had inserting negatives into sleeves has been with damp film.
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May 11, 2013 19:22
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nielsm posted:My experience is that when film sticks to anything, but sleeves and the like in particular, it's because it isn't completely dry. It could have just been humidity. It was back in the height of the summer mugginess when I was doing this. carticket fucked around with this message at 06:12 on May 12, 2013 |
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May 11, 2013 20:54
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E: too much effort
bobmarleysghost fucked around with this message at 21:10 on May 11, 2013 |
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May 11, 2013 21:06
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nielsm posted:The only trouble I have ever had inserting negatives into sleeves has been with damp film.
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May 11, 2013 21:48
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Paul MaudDib posted:You will get a negative out of it. Probably a really low-contrast one I'd think, since they probably washed something else in to bind to the unreduced silver (assuming it's analogous to the coupler-dye process of E-6). I actually have 8 rolls of Pan F+ that arrived on the mail today and i'm planning on adapting the ilford method (use D-76 stock and kodak fixer, can't get ilford chemicals around here) to try and get some positives out of them... Will also be reporting on my findings 
Primo Itch fucked around with this message at 05:36 on May 13, 2013 |
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May 13, 2013 03:58
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I have an Electro 35 GX that needs a CLA. Anyone know a good tech? Mark Hama is the obvious, but he's a bit dodgy from what I can tell. It's easier to find options for the bigger Electro's (GSN and ilk) but the small ones not so much.
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May 13, 2013 04:28
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I got myself the sexiest camera in existence... Unfortunately, it is selenium cell based, so I can only use it in 1/30th with manual aperture control.
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May 14, 2013 04:41
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Reichstag posted:I got myself the sexiest camera in existence... is that a realtree shirt
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May 14, 2013 06:45
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atomicthumbs posted:is that a realtree shirt Nah, some lame '3d' knockoff.
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May 14, 2013 07:02
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Zenostein posted:I think what I might be asking is something along the lines of: can you remove yourself from the equilateral triangle of exposure? It sounds like you need neutral density filters.
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May 14, 2013 10:38
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Reichstag posted:I got myself the sexiest camera in existence... I was not aware that they made FED-2 so small that could be hidden behind that box with a hole in it!
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May 14, 2013 10:42
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Developed my second batch of C-41 last night, using my crappy non-waterproof digital thermometers (the stem is fine, but if the bulb gets splashed it's pretty much lights out for 12ish hours). Worked pretty well, I keep the chems in a pair of 1L glass bottles I picked up at IKEA (I forget the name for the integrated stoppered tops, think Grolsch), which seem pretty good at transferring heat and I like the way they sink to the bottom of the temperature bath. I use a small plastic trashcan with pretty hot water (~50-60C) to bring them up to around 37 quickly, then drop them in a small cooler that's around 38-40 to finish the job, also where I put the tank while stuff is developing. I feel like the temperature baths are borderline unnecessary now that summer is beginning, as the development stage is only 3:15 (plus or minus .2C from 38C), and blix is 5 minutes with plus or minus 2C. Even so, still do them. I know I'm not the first person in the thread to say this, but it's really not difficult to do C-41 at home at all... I see a lot of poo poo talked about how precise you need to be and how it should be left to a minilab, but I think most if not all of those people have never actually done it themselves, and are just parroting something they heard/read. Having to save up 10ish rolls to do at once is a little bit of a PITA though. Unfortunately, it looks like the Naniwa kit I used has been discontinued, and I can't find it in stock anywhere. Some Japanese people online mentioned using a Kodak Ektar RA kit instead, which I think is for paper? Thinking my best option may be to order from the USA... I think 2-3 kits at $20 apiece would probably cover me for the rest of my time here. Is there anything nasty in the Tetenal or Unicolor C-41 (powder) kits that would likely raise eyebrows at Customs (Japan, in this case)? When I checked shipping to Japan at B&H it didn't give me any special warnings or anything, at least. On the other hand, they can be kinda strict about stuff we don't get much poo poo for in the USA... I was trying to get my hands on some silver nitrate last year and apparently you need a license? My freedom  Also, recommendations on some hardier (with regard to waterproofing) and not-terribly-expensive digital thermometers would be great. My friend is either going to lend or sell me his PID (used it for sous vide) which should make things a *lot* easier, although I'd want completely separate vessels/temperature probes to avoid any contamination while cooking.
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May 15, 2013 01:18
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Unfortunately, it looks like the Naniwa kit I used has been discontinued, and I can't find it in stock anywhere. Some Japanese people online mentioned using a Kodak Ektar RA kit instead, which I think is for paper? I ordered the Rollei Digibase (Liquid, 5 Step) kit from Maco in Germany twice and hadn't had any problems with customs either time. For a thermometer, I ended up building my own using an Arduino, That way I could have a very long lead to the actual temperature sensor and stand the unit next to my darkroom timer. It uses an LED 8-segment display that adjust brightness according to ambient conditions, so it's always readable in my darkroom without searing my eyes. Accuracy is +/-0.05 degree Celsius in a -10 - 50C temperature range. I dunno how handy you are with a soldering iron, but I'd be willing to share the sources / DIY steps. Edit: Also gonna echo, Home developing C41 is easy. Saving up rolls is a pain. I use a hacked aquarium heater (Hacked to do 38.0C on the spot) and a cheap ($15) aquarium pump to circulate the water in my kitchen sink. Works very very well, indistinguishable from my lab. Cost is minimal, besides chems. VomitOnLino fucked around with this message at 04:15 on May 15, 2013 |
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May 15, 2013 04:10
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VomitOnLino posted:I ordered the Rollei Digibase (Liquid, 5 Step) kit from Maco in Germany twice and hadn't had any problems with customs either time. Instructions would be awesome!
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May 15, 2013 04:39
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Also, recommendations on some hardier (with regard to waterproofing) and not-terribly-expensive digital thermometers would be great. My friend is either going to lend or sell me his PID (used it for sous vide) which should make things a *lot* easier, although I'd want completely separate vessels/temperature probes to avoid any contamination while cooking. I used my sous vizzle to maintain temp in a laundry basin (maybe 50 litres?), and that combined with the thermal mass was more than enough to keep temp within half a degree over the couple hours. Didnt bother with the aeration connection, since I figure swishing it around with the tank every 30 seconds is going to do the job well enough. And either refilled my ghetto chem storage (tinfoil-wrapped cola bottles with the air pushed out) or dumped things like rinse water into the bathroom sink, so no contamination. Also stuck my cheap ebay digital thermometer with long lead thermocouple in there (looks the same as this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-...6d04ee14&_uhb=1) to give a backup monitor. And just for paranoia, compared them both against my Thermapen before I started. BrosephofArimathea fucked around with this message at 06:37 on May 15, 2013 |
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May 15, 2013 06:35
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As I mentioned upthread, I had previously I bought some very expired (Produced in 1991, Expired 1997) Kodak Ektachrome 64T. Well the results are in... Here it is on my light table, reminder this is slide film and the magenta-y stuff should be jet black.  I guess I will shoot it anyway and then soup it in C41. For now I'll see how it scans.
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May 15, 2013 11:50
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So I am attending a wedding as a guest soon and I thought about shooting a few rolls with a cheap film point and shoot sort of as a gift to the couple of some pictures that look dramatically different from the Jasmine Star wannabee they're hiring. Can any one recommend some good films. I think I might just get a five pack of Tri-x but the wedding is on a Greek Island so it might be nice to get some color. I have some rolls of Portra 400
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May 15, 2013 17:25
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