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My poo poo heap wasn't running very well and I ended up taking down the carbs and found a home made diaphragm complete with a tear. I replaced the diaphragm, decided I hated the stock airbox, and bought a pod filter. I bought the Factory Pro needle jet kit for it and got it all tuned up. I started with 108 jets but ended up at 110 and 4th needle slot down. Runs great now. I also got some beat up old fairings and installed them. This bike looks like a screaming pile of turds but it really is fun to ride. Before: After: I do have new front turn signals ordered and I intend on doing /something/ about the colors.
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# ? May 14, 2013 01:44 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 18:33 |
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vs Dinosaurs posted:I'm going to be in that area in the very near future and am interested in buying it. I would much rather buy from a goon than a totally random dude. Sure, just let me know. I'm not in any rush to get rid of it. Glad to see I'm not too off the mark price wise.
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# ? May 14, 2013 02:25 |
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Shoot me an email at ck.fancher@google's service dot com so we can talk specifics!
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# ? May 14, 2013 03:35 |
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Looking for a first bike. Not particularly mechanically inclined. This (http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/3793659576.html) came across my view, and I need the opinion of the thread: 1. I'm going to want the fairing back on. Is this something that someone who is mostly thumbs should worry about? 2. Guy has removed the turn signals and mirrors, as well. Same question. 3. What am I missing? Or should I just run from a person who forgets to include the year of the bike, and cannot spell "ninja"?
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# ? May 14, 2013 07:27 |
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I'd say he's just streetfightered it, has two nice cars in the background that look fairly good condition - I wouldn't be too worried. Definitely worth having a look at it.
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# ? May 14, 2013 08:08 |
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If he has all of the parts and he really did "streetfighter" it then it should be good. Usually bikes that are 'streetfighter'ed out by only removing body parts are crashed bikes but this one seems to be okay. Do you have any friends who know bikes who could take a look at it with you? Putting on the cowling and fairings are easy provided he still has all of the parts and fasteners. The mirrors and turn signals are attached, you should only need to reconnect the wires to the signal lights. You have to be careful not to over tighten well nuts if it has them(ask me how I know) but for the most part it's simple tools and easy parts to fit together. If you run from people who misspell listings you'll lose out on a lot of good bikes. I intentionally search typical/ easy misspellings on craigslist to try to find people that mess up but Not everyone can spell or cares. Ditto on them not listing the year, it's a ninja250 so they're pretty much unchanged for 20 years. The individual bike's condition is more important than the year in general. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_remove_the_fairing,_fuel_tank,_etc%3F nsaP fucked around with this message at 15:53 on May 14, 2013 |
# ? May 14, 2013 15:47 |
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Be careful with the screws that go into the sides of the tank- depending on the year, the top and bottom screws may be different lengths and you'll puncture the tank if you mix them up. Don't do that. It's worth mentioning that I have zero mechanical experience but I was able to remove and reinstall the fairings with very little effort. Assuming they or my frame hadn't been warped, of course. Other than that, what nsaP said.
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# ? May 14, 2013 15:53 |
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Cool. In email contact with the guy, he seems all right and says he has all of the stuff he took off. I did see the rundown on ninja250.org, but basically wanted some reassurance. That misspelling is probably the reason it's still available; I assume everyone is doing just what I was and just putting "ninja" into the search bar. So, huzzah for late-night insomnia-boredom. Thanks, fellas.
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# ? May 14, 2013 16:18 |
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Ha, it's funny how the two cars in the back changed the guy from "tard" to "looks what he might know what he's doing". For that price though I'd definitely go out to look at it. Look for scuffing on the handlebars or levers, that oughta tell you if he dropped it. Though if it was a bad crash he might have replaced them, and a drop where he didn't might not be a big deal.
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# ? May 14, 2013 17:12 |
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Fifty Three posted:Be careful with the screws that go into the sides of the tank- depending on the year, the top and bottom screws may be different lengths and you'll puncture the tank if you mix them up. Don't do that. It's worth mentioning that I have zero mechanical experience but I was able to remove and reinstall the fairings with very little effort. Assuming they or my frame hadn't been warped, of course. I did this and punctured my tank. It's really easy to do!
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# ? May 14, 2013 17:39 |
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Resource posted:I did this and punctured my tank. It's really easy to do!
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# ? May 14, 2013 18:22 |
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:Ha, it's funny how the two cars in the back changed the guy from "tard" to "looks what he might know what he's doing". For that price though I'd definitely go out to look at it. Look for scuffing on the handlebars or levers, that oughta tell you if he dropped it. Though if it was a bad crash he might have replaced them, and a drop where he didn't might not be a big deal. I'll definitely keep an eye open. The last one I looked at had been dropped hard enough to bend the front wheel out of alignment. Fifty Three posted:What year is yours? I suspect the PO of my bike bought new hardware, because my screws seem nearly identical in length aside from manufacturing variances. Curious about this. ninja250 says "early models" and then doesn't define what that means. What's a new tank run, anyway?
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# ? May 14, 2013 19:21 |
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Fifty Three posted:What year is yours? I suspect the PO of my bike bought new hardware, because my screws seem nearly identical in length aside from manufacturing variances. It's the previous gen, 2006 I think. I wasn't really worth replacing the tank, so I just fixed it myself. I did not even realize there was a length difference when I made the mistake, but I believe the PO of my bike had replaced the hardware as well.
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# ? May 14, 2013 19:42 |
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TheNothingNew posted:Looking for a first bike. Not particularly mechanically inclined. Update: Just took a look, and going to buy this on Thursday. Issues I'll need guidance on: 1. Lower fairing is partially melted. I'm guessing it just sat too long while running. 2. The throttle doesn't snap back to home as quickly as I'd like. Not sure if this is an actual issue or just me being touchy. 3. Mild rust speckles on the front of the exhaust, just where they come out of the engine. This is just me being persnickety, but I'm curious if there's a way to stop it getting worse. Thanks again.
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# ? May 14, 2013 22:51 |
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Updating so you can all laugh. Bought the bike, got the paperwork all taken care of, seller even put the fairings on for me. Missing some of the connectors, but still solid, and what's missing is fixable with zip ties. We conclude, seller takes off for work, I steel myself for riding for the first time on anything other than a chained-off MSF course while the bike warms. I straighten the wheel, and the bike dies. Then it won't start. I try neutral, first, nothing. I remember the choke exists: coughs, then nothing. Starter cranks, but it isn't catching. Tank's three-fourths full, that isn't it. I keep loving with it for so long that the starter begins to die - I'm clearly killing the battery. One last try to bump-start the drat thing - nothing. So I go for a walk, before I do anything stupid or overheat anymore. Meantime, my wife (who gave me a ride here, and is caught between laughing at me and crying with me), calls her dad, who rides. I'm contemplating suicide or a tow service, whichever is easier. Her dad runs me through everything I've already tried; nothing. Finally he asks about the fuel cutoff - on, petcock, or off? I'm thinking this is stupid, I already know there's fuel, and why the hell would there be a fuel cutoff anyholyshitit'soff. Set it to "on," let everything sit for a couple of minutes, then work on remembering my MSF poo poo from six months ago. Then ride the bike home. 35 miles, half of that freeway. In rush-hour traffic. The wife said my body english was so tense that it was making her nervous. My ankles hurt, my right hand aches from my death-grip on the throttle, and I desperately wish I'd remembered to go shopping for ear-plugs. I am exhilarated, and want to go again. And I'm going to, just as soon as the adrenaline wears off. And after I move the shifter so I can wear the motorcycle boots - couldn't get the drat toe in there. Thank you all.
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# ? May 17, 2013 01:02 |
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Hahaha, I went for a short ride on my ninja 250 pregen a month ago, two blocks later the bike dies and I kill the battery trying to start it. Turns out I had the same "problem".
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# ? May 17, 2013 01:10 |
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TheNothingNew posted:petcockblocked A nice stoner couple saw my predicament and gave me a ride to the gas station, and the gas station owner gave me a ride back to my bike.
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# ? May 17, 2013 01:33 |
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So my bike has developed a problem and I'm running out of things to check. I took the bike out a week ago and I got about 2 miles from my house before it died while i was slowing down at a stop sign. It won't restart and it seems like its not getting gas. After a few minutes it will start and run only for a minute or so. I decided it must be the petcock, so I replaced that. A few shenanigans during the process of replacing the petcock and some fresh gas later, I have the same problem today. I did discover today that it will stay running if the gas cap is open and I am giving it gas. If I let it idle it just dies eventually. I feel like this is carb related but if I have to take them out I'm going to have quite a problem on my hands.
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# ? May 17, 2013 01:43 |
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i have been "petcockblocked" (I like the word) so many times there should be an idiot light on the dash telling you the petcock is set to off...
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# ? May 17, 2013 01:45 |
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M42 posted:Hahaha, I went for a short ride on my ninja 250 pregen a month ago, two blocks later the bike dies and I kill the battery trying to start it. Turns out I had the same "problem". After taking a breath and thinking about it, I'm really glad that it happened in a driveway, and not on the inaugural ride, because that would have scared the hell out of me.
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# ? May 17, 2013 02:00 |
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This might be a stupid question, but is it necessary to ever turn the petcock to off? Is it just for long term storage?
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# ? May 17, 2013 04:22 |
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Hog Obituary posted:This might be a stupid question, but is it necessary to ever turn the petcock to off? I had to ask someone, but yeah, that's it. Father-in-law's storage method is Sta-Bil in the tank with gas, run it for a bit, petcock to "off," let carbs run dry, shut off and leave until spring.
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# ? May 17, 2013 04:33 |
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The cool part about a petcock is switching it to reserve while riding as the motor is dying. The not so cool part is finding out you've crossed the feeder tubes the last time you lifted the tank...
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# ? May 17, 2013 09:59 |
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thechdster posted:So my bike has developed a problem and I'm running out of things to check. I took the bike out a week ago and I got about 2 miles from my house before it died while i was slowing down at a stop sign. It won't restart and it seems like its not getting gas. After a few minutes it will start and run only for a minute or so. This felt familiar, like I'd read about it recently. If so, I cannot find what I was reading, but here's something to get you started: http://forums.ninja250.org/posting.php?mode=topicreview&t=87367&tro=1 Sounds like you have a more serious version of this guy's problem. If air cannot get into the tank as it drains, a vacuum forms in the tank and then fuel doesn't flow anymore. The gasket is built into the filler cap, so opening that fixes the problem briefly. All supposition, anyway. Like I have any idea what I'm talking about. Question for the thread: Can anyone tell me what size clamp #92037A is? It holds the tube breather in place, mine's missing the clamp and it doesn't feel terribly secure. Diagram: Online parts stores have it, but don't say what size. Given that they want $5 apiece, I'm guessing I can get one at an auto parts for 50 cents. TheNothingNew fucked around with this message at 15:53 on May 17, 2013 |
# ? May 17, 2013 15:50 |
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TheNothingNew posted:Question for the thread:
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# ? May 17, 2013 18:40 |
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Fifty Three posted:I hate those things so much. The ones on the petcock/vacuum/carb lines are the worst part of tearing my bike down, by far. Just easy to lose, or what? I've not dealt with them before.
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# ? May 18, 2013 04:00 |
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TheNothingNew posted:Just easy to lose, or what? I've not dealt with them before.
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# ? May 18, 2013 04:07 |
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Fifty Three posted:I personally find them damned near impossible to slide up far enough on the line to remove it. The tiny ones are difficult to get a pair of pliers or whatever to and they hurt my delicate nerd fingers. Hmm. Sounds like a pain. How bad of an idea is using a twist-tie there, instead? Serious question.
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# ? May 18, 2013 04:23 |
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KARMA! posted:The cool part about a petcock is switching it to reserve while riding as the motor is dying. The not so cool part is finding out you've crossed the feeder tubes the last time you lifted the tank... It's a good thing the pregen only has one feeder tube, or I'm sure I would have screwed that up a few times. TheNothingNew posted:Question for the thread: If that's the vacuum line, I never bothered with a clamp and it was fine for the 30k miles I had the bike. The on/off function of a vacuum petcock doesn't need a whole lot of force to operate, so a little leakage from the hose not being clamped down isn't a big deal. If it's the fuel line, just get one of those screw adjusters. They work better and they can be used on more than one size hose, so you can just go buy a small one without needing to know any silly measurements. edit: And they're not a total pain in the dick to move around like the squeeze clamps are. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 16:35 on May 18, 2013 |
# ? May 18, 2013 16:29 |
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I'm finally getting around to replacing the chain and tires on an '09. Well, if I don't sell it first. Any recommendations for a chain or should I just go with w/e decent O-ring or X-ring chain I can find?
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# ? May 22, 2013 20:14 |
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nsaP posted:I should just go with w/e decent O-ring or X-ring chain I can find. This.
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# ? May 22, 2013 21:36 |
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I'd go with an RK XSO chain. Basically, the cheapest X-ring chain they make, as o-ring chains are kinda poo poo (although worlds above the non-oring kind).
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# ? May 22, 2013 22:15 |
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I had an RK XSO last 25k miles on my 250. They're worth the extra 15 bucks or whatever over an o-ring one.
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# ? May 22, 2013 22:19 |
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So I have these flush mount turn signals that were installed by the PO: But sadly, I broke one of the lenses. I did some searching on the forums and I think that they are from the now-defunct AsianCycle.com: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Installing_AsianCycle_flush-mounts Supposedly AsianCycle was just buying them from somewhere else and painting them, so I'm wondering if these exact ones are still available. All I need is one replacement lens. Anybody know the story? Alternatively I can just replace them both with some other eBay ones. I frequently see these on eBay for about $15. It doesn't look like the lens will be a direct replacement so I'd probably have to replace both entire signals. :/
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# ? May 23, 2013 03:25 |
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http://www.madhornets.com/front-indicators-flush-mount-led-turn-signals-for-kawasaki-ninja-ex250-1988-2007-smoke-or-clear/ I have a set of these and they look identical.
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# ? May 23, 2013 07:20 |
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EX250 Type R posted:http://www.madhornets.com/front-indicators-flush-mount-led-turn-signals-for-kawasaki-ninja-ex250-1988-2007-smoke-or-clear/ Oh awesome - those might be the ones!
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# ? May 23, 2013 07:41 |
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If you didn't/don't order more, I think I may have a couple flushies lying around that are identical to those. If they still have the lenses, I can ship one to you for the cost of postage.
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# ? May 23, 2013 20:23 |
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Not sure if this is the right thread, but let's give it a shot. I'm having issues with my 250 at low RPM. The throttle is super responsive at high rpms, but as soon as it reaches around 3-4 thousand, it becomes really slow to idle. I have fiddled with the idle screw a little to see if I was just running a little lean/rich, but it hasn't helped. I took a look at the throttle assembly at the carbs, and noticed that it didn't snap back to its stop as soon as the throttle was let go, it slowed down near the end. I'm assuming that this is most likely a cable that needs lubing, but I'm no mechanic. Also,I recently had my carbs cleaned at my local shop.I figured maybe they didn't adjust something properly. I called them and they said to bring the bike by on tuesday and they'd take a look. I just want a second opinion from my favorite group of internet bikers. Cheers
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# ? May 23, 2013 21:00 |
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AncientTV posted:If you didn't/don't order more, I think I may have a couple flushies lying around that are identical to those. If they still have the lenses, I can ship one to you for the cost of postage.
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# ? May 23, 2013 21:03 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 18:33 |
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Liopleurodon posted:Not sure if this is the right thread, but let's give it a shot. They could have routed it wrong, or they could need to be lubed.
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# ? May 23, 2013 21:07 |