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Still haven't come up with a wheel idea, but otherwise declaring: SUCCESSFUL PROJECT.  I'd show the hood open but its not currently attached because my drill is too big  Luckily my dad has a small one he'll bring to the party and we can pop it on there.
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May 17, 2013 22:01
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Alaan posted:With the point I'm at not strictly speaking a woodworking question but seemed a good place to ask. I'm making a toybox for my nephew that is an SUV as seen below! Why not make up wooden wheels and a dowel for an axel? A big hole saw will make up some wheels quick. Casters is cheating. It's like when you bring home the toy tank and find out that there are wheels hidden behind the treads instead of real working treads. Maybe other people didn't care but that was a always a disappointment for me. But so far that looks fantastic.
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May 18, 2013 01:12
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Alaan posted:Still haven't come up with a wheel idea, but otherwise declaring: SUCCESSFUL PROJECT. I would have loved that as a kid, nice project. If you don't have the tools to make wood wheels, try a farm store if you have one, they will have more types of wheels than you knew existed. If nothing else, you can cut wheels with a jig saw and make a sanding jig to make them perfectly round. http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=A0oG7n6ayZZRi0kAZjdXNyoA?p=circle+sanding+jig&fr=crmas&fr2=piv-web
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May 18, 2013 01:22
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Clearly the only answer is to restore a stanley #20
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May 18, 2013 03:51
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Pine, baked and unbaked. Guess it's not just the surface but goes all the way through. Interesting ukulele build here: http://www.ukuleleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?80281-Repeat-Performance
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May 19, 2013 06:56
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I'm getting an old Craftsman drill press this weekend. Are the v-link belts worth it for drill presses, or is that excessive?
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May 20, 2013 22:30
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I've got a regular belt on my (craftsman) drill press and it seems fine. I have some extra power twist I could slap on to find out, but for that particular case, if you don't have it handy, I probably wouldn't bother.
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May 20, 2013 23:30
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Hello SA Woodworkers (and SA in general, I guess.) To get right to it, I'm making a prop axe, and I'm making it out of wood! I have some woodworking experience, and a variety of tools, but I'm looking for some advice on exactly how to make it. Specifically, I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to attach the head to the haft. I have a 1-1/4" x 48" dowel for the haft (which will be 40" long at the end), some 1-1/2" dowel for the endcaps (can't really call it a pommel...), some 3/4" x 12" x 48" pine for the 2 heads, and some small dowels to affix stuff together. My main question is: do you think a few dowels will be enough to hold a head of that size (about 11" tall and 24" long) onto the haft, even with the head being fairly light? From my experience, the small head should be fine with dowels and glue, but I'm worried about the large head. Thanks in advance. Reference photo: 
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May 21, 2013 02:36
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Rodenthar Drothman posted:My main question is: do you think a few dowels will be enough to hold a head of that size Yes it could work, but the devil is in the details.
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May 21, 2013 05:00
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My coffee table is starting to take shape. The end of the frame is in sight, more bars and arches on the long apron. Then it's time for the top or the shelf, not too sure what to expect on the top. I've never done any mitres before and these are going to be in plain sight. I've got a mitre box, so I guess I'll see how it goes. Any tips for tight fitting mitre joints? The bars are held in place with dowels and there's shallow mortise and tenons holding the aprons and legs in place. I'm going to put in corner brackets for more support, wood ones hopefully but if it's too much of a pain in the rear end then I'll get some metal ones. 
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May 22, 2013 01:50
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Meow Meow Meow posted:My coffee table is starting to take shape. The end of the frame is in sight, more bars and arches on the long apron. Then it's time for the top or the shelf, not too sure what to expect on the top. I've never done any mitres before and these are going to be in plain sight. I've got a mitre box, so I guess I'll see how it goes. Any tips for tight fitting mitre joints? Coming along nicely. How is the top built that it will have miters? Plywood with edging? If so, you don't have to miter them. Another technique is glue on the side edging and cut the ends off flush, then glue on a thicker end edging for a faux breadboard look. To answer the question, the only real tricks with miters is accurate cutting and/or accurate shooting with a hand plane (or miter trimmer but few people have those).
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May 22, 2013 07:28
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wormil posted:Coming along nicely. How is the top built that it will have miters? Plywood with edging? If so, you don't have to miter them. Another technique is glue on the side edging and cut the ends off flush, then glue on a thicker end edging for a faux breadboard look. To answer the question, the only real tricks with miters is accurate cutting and/or accurate shooting with a hand plane (or miter trimmer but few people have those). Thanks, that's exactly what I'm doing, plywood with a border, thinking of doing an inlay border of maple between the plywood and the solid wood. Thanks for the tips, I'll try my hand at a couple mitres then if that fails I'll go for the breadboard look.
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May 23, 2013 03:44
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wormil posted:Pine, baked and unbaked. Guess it's not just the surface but goes all the way through. What do you mean by "baked"? Physically in the oven? The pieces look a bit large for that.
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May 23, 2013 04:37
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jvick posted:What do you mean by "baked"? Physically in the oven? The pieces look a bit large for that. yep. the thread is a neat, weird read, check it out
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May 23, 2013 04:50
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jvick posted:What do you mean by "baked"? Physically in the oven? The pieces look a bit large for that. They are ukulele fretboards so probably about 14" long. Baked in an oven at 225f for an hour.
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May 23, 2013 07:21
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I want to make something similar to this. What would be the most ideal way of fixing the state boarder pieces to the back panel?
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May 27, 2013 20:28
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Daggerpants posted:I want to make something similar to this. What would be the most ideal way of fixing the state boarder pieces to the back panel? How big will it be? Looks larger than a single 4x8 sheet of ply. Were you planning on cutting out each state individually? If so, it'd be easy to route a 3/8" rabbet on the perimeter of each state. If you were just going to attach the state boarder pieces atop a solid single sheet, glues and brads would probably suffice as each state would be reinforcing each other nicely.
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May 27, 2013 22:49
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kafkasgoldfish posted:How big will it be? Looks larger than a single 4x8 sheet of ply. Were you planning on cutting out each state individually? If so, it'd be easy to route a 3/8" rabbet on the perimeter of each state. Well the space I have to fill is about 5x9, so 4x8 might be best for the sake of simplicity. I was hoping to keep a single solid back piece and then attach all the boarders to that. I'd be concerned shooting brads blindly from the rear for fear of blowing out the sidewall of the boarder piece. My concern with shrinking it down is that actual books still fit in the majority of the states. Daggerpants fucked around with this message at 02:00 on May 28, 2013 |
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May 28, 2013 01:51
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wormil posted:They are ukulele fretboards so probably about 14" long. Baked in an oven at 225f for an hour. Crazy, never heard of it. Sounds really interesting. Here's a project I completed this weekend for the fiance. A potting table made from an old porch that I tore out of a friend's rental property. The frame of the table I just made from redwood 2x4's, and 4x4's. It's 47" wide, 32" high, 24" deep. Scored a lot of brownie points with this thing!  Potting Bench by jvick125, on Flickr  Potting Bench from reclaimed wood by jvick125, on Flickr  Potting Bench from reclaimed wood by jvick125, on Flickr
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May 28, 2013 03:27
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So, the axe is starting to take shape:  I have to take the end caps in (the ... pommel and top cap? It's an axe, so my normal sword logic doesn't seem to apply here.) to work and turn them on a belt sander, and I'll take an electric sander to the heads to get them to size / give them an 'edge'. I think I'll drill through the haft and screw the larger head in, and use the smaller head to cover it up (while using the dowels for it.) Now it looks like the hard part will be sanding down the holes in the heads.
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May 28, 2013 03:44
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Daggerpants posted:I want to make something similar to this. What would be the most ideal way of fixing the state boarder pieces to the back panel? It looks to me like they cut out each state then attached the 'shelves'; each state being an independent shelf as I can see white between them. I can't think of anything better than glue and screws, doing it that way. Another way would be to cut out each state allowing for a 3/4" gap between which will become a dado for the 'shelves'. That allows you to run pocket screws from each state into adjoining shelves, tying the whole thing together.
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May 28, 2013 04:19
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I've got one of those solid oak frame-and-panel doors with a carved center panel. The finish and existing stain is totally shot and I'm stuck with sanding it back to bare wood. Is there some mercifully easy way to get this...  ...back to raw wood without ending up with raw, bloody stumps for fingers? I've entertained doing the ground properly and then just scuff sanding the relief, but (a) I can't decide if the different color from the patina and old stain would look stupid, and (b) there's so little stain penetration I may blow through it anyway trying to scuff it up. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 18:39 on May 31, 2013 |
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May 31, 2013 18:34
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Hi, I'm looking to make a few things, starting with a basic workbench. I also want to make some bedroom wall shelves (simple ones first) and a patio table (farm style) and benches. I haven't done any woodworking before. I'm looking at these three books on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Woodwork-Step...rds=woodworking http://www.amazon.com/Tauntons-Complete-Illustrated-Guide-Woodworking/dp/B003NHR66I http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Manual-Woodworking-Albert-Jackson/dp/0679766111/ref=pd_sim_b_6 Besides books, I was thinking of picking up a circular saw. Should I just go for the cheapest one I can find? I imagine for now I'll only use it for straight cutting and notch cutting. What features should I look for and how big of a blade should I be looking at? I already have a drill that I think is good enough for drilling and screwing. Is it a good idea to buy used power tools to save money?
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May 31, 2013 19:38
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TO UNDERAGE GYMNASTS
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Dudebro posted:Hi, I'm looking to make a few things, starting with a basic workbench. I also want to make some bedroom wall shelves (simple ones first) and a patio table (farm style) and benches. I haven't done any woodworking before. I'm looking at these three books on Amazon: I love the enthusiasm of a new hobbyist. Generally you should never 'buy the cheapest' when it comes to tools. There are several sayings that go along with this, "The most expensive tools are those you buy twice," and "You feel the pain of buying a good tool only once but you feel the pain of buying a cheap tool every time you use it." That said, there are some tools that you can get away with buying 'inexpensive' (not necessarily the cheapest). A cheap bandsaw is better than no bandsaw, ditto for a drill press; but a very good version of either is far less frustrating. I've used cheap circular saws and expensive ones and the difference isn't too significant. Unless you plan on doing a lot of construction just buy something mid-range. I like used tools but I look for stuff that a homeowner bought and used a couple times, or buying from another woodworker. I never buy from construction guys because they work the hell out of their equipment. I'm not familiar with those particular books although the first one looks promising. Here are some I recommended way back in the beginning of the thread. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?action=showpost&postid=342729921
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May 31, 2013 21:32
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I'm wary of the books that were published over 10 years ago, but it's a fairly static subject except for the advancement of power tools. The photos would get a lot better though. That first one I linked does seem good. It's modern and has all 5-star reviews. I'll get into that and come back here. I don't want to fill my head with too much information before actually doing some stuff.
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May 31, 2013 22:21
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Dudebro posted:I'm wary of the books that were published over 10 years ago, but it's a fairly static subject ... I don't think much has changed in the last 10 years except the Domino replaced the biscuit joiner as the next big thing that will change woodworking forever; and the French style bench (Roubo) dethroned the Scandinavian as most popular workbench.  I can post this now, the marking gauge I made for the LJ swap. Poplar & padauk, max depth of cut is about 2.5".  
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Jun 1, 2013 06:21
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wormil posted:I don't think much has changed in the last 10 years except the Domino replaced the biscuit joiner as the next big thing that will change woodworking forever; and the French style bench (Roubo) dethroned the Scandinavian as most popular workbench. That's really cool, is that an allen key? Do you have a method to keep the sharp edge pointing in the right ditrection?? I'm going to try to build a marking knife, then I want to try a marking gauge.
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Jun 3, 2013 00:34
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Meow Meow Meow posted:That's really cool, is that an allen key? Do you have a method to keep the sharp edge pointing in the right ditrection?? If I'm not mistaken, I think the flat edge of the hex key against the set screw keeps it oriented in the right direction. It's a really clever execution. I can't wait to get my garage transitioned into a small shop. I just picked up a nice brace and a roll of bits for $20. I've been building up a small collection of hand tools but I'd like to make some of my own like that.
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Jun 3, 2013 03:31
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Meow Meow Meow posted:That's really cool, is that an allen key? Do you have a method to keep the sharp edge pointing in the right ditrection?? Magnus is correct, the flat of the hex key helps keep it in place + friction. Marking knives and gauges are easy and there are a ton of gauge designs to choose from.
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Jun 3, 2013 17:35
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Anyone have any good resources for boat plans?
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Jun 3, 2013 22:53
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Pufflekins posted:Anyone have any good resources for boat plans? Check your local library for books. When I was researching canoe plans I found the best resources were books from my library. I still haven't built a canoe, but I want to once I get a bigger place.
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Jun 4, 2013 02:40
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Check your local library for books. When I was researching canoe plans I found the best resources were books from my library. I still haven't built a canoe, but I want to once I get a bigger place. I'd like to build a canoe as well, hard not to after my dad built his -  Quite an endeavor, especially if you've never done any fiberglass work.
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Jun 4, 2013 02:52
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How long did it take him? I'd love to build a kayak. Seconding the library. I read the entire woodworking section at mine.
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Jun 4, 2013 03:20
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mds2 posted:Seconding the library. I read the entire woodworking section at mine. That'd be 674 and/or 694 in the dewey decimal system, I believe, if anyone wants to easily see what their local library has.  e: Although another source claims 684 so you might have to just poke around the upper 600's. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Jun 4, 2013 |
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Jun 4, 2013 03:40
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Nick Offerman (aka Ron Swanson) endorses a book called "Canoecraft" for building canoes if that helps any: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7qiXZqrvfI
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Jun 4, 2013 06:18
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I have limited space to do projects so I can't really have any stationary power tools, so I'm trying to use hand tools and more portable power tools. I have a random orbit sander, jigsaw, and bench top drill press. I saw this small bench top band saw and I was wondering if it was worth it for small stuff. 9" benchtop band saw The reviews seem to indicate that it is decent for small stuff but might require some tune up. It's basically 100 bucks, would it be worth it for making small cuts? If I have a good blade is it likely to hold a line and cut straight? Would it be able to make decent curved cuts? I think I just want to start getting in to making some small boxes so it's small capacity wouldn't be a big deal, as long as it cuts decently.
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Jun 4, 2013 10:49
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nosleep posted:I have limited space to do projects so I can't really have any stationary power tools, so I'm trying to use hand tools and more portable power tools. I have a random orbit sander, jigsaw, and bench top drill press. I saw this small bench top band saw and I was wondering if it was worth it for small stuff.
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Jun 4, 2013 11:45
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I had a 9" delta bandsaw. Biggest piece of crap ever. Worthless if you had to cut anything thicker than 1/4" balsa wood.
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Jun 4, 2013 14:16
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Pufflekins posted:Anyone have any good resources for boat plans? There are tons of plans on the internet, free and $$, from mouse boats (built from a single sheet of plywood) up to 15 footers and probably bigger. What type of boat are you looking to build? Re: 9" bandsaws - they are pretty much all the same. You can build one better than you buy in those price ranges.
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Jun 4, 2013 20:28
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I'm looking to go about 20' with a little lounge under the front. I'll definitely check out the local library. The thing has to be ocean faring though. Where should I look on the Internet for free plans? I can only find plans that cost money.
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Jun 4, 2013 21:45
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