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Mr. Apollo posted:I picked up an Asus RT-N66U to replace my WRT54G. I put Tomato (Shibby) on the RT-N66U. I ran into this very same problem when I upgraded to the RT-N16. The only way I got it to work was call my cable provider(Cox) and have them send a reset signal through to my cable modem. That seem to fix it and it worked great after that.
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May 19, 2013 04:02
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z06ck posted:Can you post a screenshot of your configuration page? HolyCarp posted:I ran into this very same problem when I upgraded to the RT-N16. The only way I got it to work was call my cable provider(Cox) and have them send a reset signal through to my cable modem. That seem to fix it and it worked great after that. It ended up being a simple solution. I had to release the WAN MAC address from old router before I connected the new router. Once I did that, everything worked as it should.
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May 19, 2013 04:46
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VorpalFish posted:So I'm slowly going insane. I have an asus RT-N56u and I'm getting intermittent wireless disconnects across all clients. If I have a continuous ping to the router going, I'll see spikes between 1 and 3 seconds of latency, packet loss, and pings will drop entirely sometimes. In the router logs, I'm getting the following message: Did you do a factory reset after upgrading to Padavans firmware? I saw people complaining about that error when using stock firmware but never on Padawan firmware.
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May 19, 2013 12:14
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FISHMANPET posted:Any half decent DHCP implementation should be smart enough to exclude statically assigned entries from the larger pool. LCD Deathpanel posted:edit: Agreed, but since their router doesn't seem to be doing that consistently it's better to change one setting and then never have to worry about it again.
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May 19, 2013 16:20
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My NIC would keep showing errors in event viewer when set to auto-negotiate for 1gbps, video streams would buffer occasionally as well. At 100full duplex it would be fine but the router showed a connecting at 100half. Since this only started when I moved the PC to a new room. Naturally, seven years ago when I punched down the RJ45 jack in this room I set it to 568a. The rest of the house is 568b. Durrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. 
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May 19, 2013 16:43
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Machismo posted:How old are the apartments? Not brand new, but not that old? No idea really. Can the neighbors cause interference or is it more of a security issue?
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May 19, 2013 23:41
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Mr. Apollo posted:When I plug in the RT-N66U to the cable modem the modem shows that the router is connected at 1Gps as the light on the front of he modem is green. However, there's just no internet access. At least this was the case with cable modems I've had and that relatives have had in various cities.
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May 20, 2013 02:45
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LooKMaN posted:Did you do a factory reset after upgrading to Padavans firmware? I saw people complaining about that error when using stock firmware but never on Padawan firmware. I should clarify, I wasn't seeing those errors in the logfile with Padavan's firmware, but I WAS seeing the same symptoms - short drops in wireless connectivity across multiple clients which coincided with massive latency spikes and packet loss to the router. I didn't factory reset after the firmware change, though, it set itself to default settings so I assumed it was good. I'll reload the firmware and try a reset. Thanks!
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May 20, 2013 03:25
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Having recently realized that my trusty 7+ year old WRT54GL is hindering full utilization of available resources by way of its 30mbit WAN port, I've decided it's probably a decent time to upgrade. I've pretty much decided on the RT-N66U as it seems to be popular around here and elsewhere. The Tomato support certainly doesn't hurt, since that's what I've been using on the ol' Linksys and I'm quite comfy with it. What about switches, though? I've got a couple 100mbit switches that I'd also like to replace with gigabit models, am I asking for trouble if I just pick up a couple cheap Rosewill or TP-Link models? Honestly, judging by newegg reviews it seems pretty tough to gently caress up a switch, but I thought I'd ask anyway.
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May 21, 2013 02:43
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Fly posted:It has often been the case that the cable modem remembers the MAC address of the router to which it is connected. Rebooting the cable modem is a typical way to resolve this. You might just be able to unplug the cable modem momentarily.
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May 21, 2013 05:26
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Mr. Apollo posted:I tried that. I ended up having to release the MAC address from the old router before plugging in the new one. Just to be clear, did you release the DHCP lease (releasing the IP address from being bound to the MAC address, which is hardcoded on each Ethernet WAN port)? Or does releasing the MAC address mean something else?
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May 21, 2013 23:23
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Fly posted:Just to be clear, did you release the DHCP lease (releasing the IP address from being bound to the MAC address, which is hardcoded on each Ethernet WAN port)?
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May 21, 2013 23:32
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Mr. Apollo posted:Yes, that is what I did. I had to manually release the lease. Thank you for satisfying my curiosity.  I haven't had a modem like that in a while.
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May 21, 2013 23:50
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Alright, more favors for family friends that have me running into brick walls and trying not to look totally incompetent. Goal: Create a VPN that can be accessed by anybody from anywhere at anytime if they have proper credentials. So my first attempt was to create a windows VPN setup on one of the computers. I went->Network and Sharing Center->Change Adapter Settings->New Incoming Connection In the dialogue: I select a user "Guest"-> Check the box "through the internet"-> Check IPv4(IPv4 automatically assigns IP and allows caller to set their own IP), QOS and File Sharing. UN-check IPv6->Allow Access-> Computer name is "Home" and that's the end of the VPN setup dialogue giving me a new "incoming connections/no clients connected" icon in my network connections folder. From there I go to the router and set port forwarding like so:  According to the HELP page for the router; Port 1723 is supposed to be the windows VPN. 192.168.1.69 is the internal IP of the "Home" computer that I configured the VPN on. From here I boot up my laptop and using the wi-fi nextdoor try to use the "Create a VPN Connection" and punch in the external IP of the router for the network, destination name is "Home" because of that computer. I punch in the "Guest" and the password... and nothing. Error 800. I'm assuming I'm doing something stupid with the port forwarding because its the only step that's not hand-holdy. Any help would be appreciated, thank you very much.
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May 22, 2013 00:09
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So I have an Arris from TWC and an Apple Airport Express. I've just learned the hard way that the Apple Express cannot extend the signal from the Arris. Apparently the AE can only extend networks generated by other Apple products. In any case, is there any workaround? What CAN I do with these two that might help with the range? Ugh... I guess I can join the AE to the network generated by the Arris, which should help streaming to the media center in the living room. e: Actually, would it be advisable to put the Arriss into Bridge mode, then route everything through the AE, which would be in a more central location? abelwingnut fucked around with this message at 00:33 on May 22, 2013 |
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May 22, 2013 00:28
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My new network with that netgear n900 I bought it stellar: I get wifi everywhere, even out at my firepit, it's fast and snappy, the reserved IP for the one computer works great, everything's peachy. Except one thing: I can't seem to access vmc/smb shares on my PC (on the LAN) from my laptop (on the WLAN.) I can't find anything in the admin UI that allows separating or joining those two parts of the network, or anything about a firewall that might be blocking said traffic. I previously had no problem at all doing exactly what I'm attempting when I was using my wrt54g. Any ideas?
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May 22, 2013 00:34
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Bad Munki posted:My new network with that netgear n900 I bought it stellar: I get wifi everywhere, even out at my firepit, it's fast and snappy, the reserved IP for the one computer works great, everything's peachy. Except one thing: I can't seem to access vmc/smb shares on my PC (on the LAN) from my laptop (on the WLAN.) I can't find anything in the admin UI that allows separating or joining those two parts of the network, or anything about a firewall that might be blocking said traffic. I previously had no problem at all doing exactly what I'm attempting when I was using my wrt54g. Any ideas?
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May 22, 2013 04:38
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Fly posted:Is "Enable Wireless Isolation" checked on the wireless configuration? Nope:  It's confusing me because I have a game server running on that computer for a few friends, and for that I have an external port forwarded to the IP in question (192.168.1.200:7777) that works just great, so I know for certain that I'm not doing something stupid like trying to connect to the wrong IP. The services (VNC/SMB) are both running, and the computer hasn't changed in any way that I am aware of since the new router was installed beyond a simple reboot here and there. e: I guess I haven't tried connecting my laptop to the wired LAN and connecting via that, that would be the obvious first troubleshooting step that I completely ignored. I'll give that a try and post a trip report. ee: That was also a no-go. The problem must be at the PC, I guess. :/ Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 14:19 on May 22, 2013 |
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May 22, 2013 14:16
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Just throwing it out there, have you connected the wireless device with a network cable and see if you can access your share then?
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May 22, 2013 14:25
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Parlett316 posted:Just throwing it out there, have you connected the wireless device with a network cable and see if you can access your share then? Yep: Bad Munki posted:e: I guess I haven't tried connecting my laptop to the wired LAN and connecting via that, that would be the obvious first troubleshooting step that I completely ignored. I'll give that a try and post a trip report.
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May 22, 2013 14:31
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Ha, must have missed that one. It might be the fault of Norton or one of those crazy personal firewalls. I've had to go to the network map on some of those apps and trust the network.
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May 22, 2013 15:12
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Has anyone here using an Asus rt-n66u run into an issue with the wired connections acting like they are disabled after a device goes to sleep? I recently swapped out a dir-655 for the n66u and didn't change any settings on the computer. Every time I go back to the computer after its gone to sleep it reports the cable is disconnected. If I access the internet or the network it gives the error you'd expect if you weren't connected. After attempting that once, it will connect a few seconds later and everything works normally. This never happened with the 655. Am i missing a setting somewhere in the router that's causing this behavior?
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May 22, 2013 21:15
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My Asus RT-N66U came in last night  , but came to realization that Dell's Wireless WLAN 1501 Half Mini-Card doesn't support 5GHz.  What's the general go to wireless network card/adapter that's most suggested? I have been eyeballing this network card at work all day. Do you guys think it's overkill in comparison to some of the available usb adapters online? Should I just stick with 2.4GHz? I just want to come home and play some mobas or cs without any hiccups. 
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May 23, 2013 03:57
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Unless you have a lot of interference on 2.4ghz in your area that's causing problems, 5ghz tends not to get as good a signal unless you are sitting pretty close to it. Shorter range and worse at penetrating walls etc. I like it for stationary applications like bridging where I know the signal strength is always going to be the same and things can run at N speeds since there aren't generally any legacy devices on a 5ghz network.
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May 23, 2013 15:13
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Mitsune posted:What's the general go to wireless network card/adapter that's most suggested? I have been eyeballing this network card at work all day. Do you guys think it's overkill in comparison to some of the available usb adapters online? Should I just stick with 2.4GHz? I have that wireless card and it's great. I don't do any multiplayer PC gaming but in my web browsing I have not noticed any drop outs. I have it connected to a Netgear WNDR4000 at 5GHZ 3 channel mode (450Mbps) and can hit 100mbit (my connections speed) on speedtests and usenet which is why I spent so much money in the first place .According to Google Maps I'm about 5m (16ft) away from the router with the signal passing between 2 interior house walls. It also worked straight away in Windows 8 without installing any drivers which was nice.
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May 23, 2013 18:54
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Chick3n posted:I have that wireless card and it's great. I don't do any multiplayer PC gaming but in my web browsing I have not noticed any drop outs. I have it connected to a Netgear WNDR4000 at 5GHZ 3 channel mode (450Mbps) and can hit 100mbit (my connections speed) on speedtests and usenet which is why I spent so much money in the first place That said, I'd get a dual-band Centrino for desktops kit if I was buying new, since it wasn't available last year when I bought this card. I haven't used one personally so I couldn't comment on performance, but Intel wireless chipsets are generally high-quality parts. future ghost fucked around with this message at 20:25 on May 23, 2013 |
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May 23, 2013 20:11
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Bad Munki posted:My new network with that netgear n900 I bought it stellar: I get wifi everywhere, even out at my firepit, it's fast and snappy, the reserved IP for the one computer works great, everything's peachy. Except one thing: I can't seem to access vmc/smb shares on my PC (on the LAN) from my laptop (on the WLAN.) I can't find anything in the admin UI that allows separating or joining those two parts of the network, or anything about a firewall that might be blocking said traffic. I previously had no problem at all doing exactly what I'm attempting when I was using my wrt54g. Any ideas? Figured this out, it was pretty silly: when I brought the new hardware in, windows didn't ask about it, it just assumed it was a public network and clammed up to all the various services. I marked it as a home network and everything works great now.
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May 23, 2013 20:14
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Yes, Intel Centrino Advanced-N 6205 for Desktop all day long. Unless you have a pressing need for 3x3 MIMO. (You don't.) As stated, you'll probably find the 2.4 GHz band your best bet depending on range/interference, but even then the Adv-N 6205 will poo poo all over Dell's card.
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May 24, 2013 00:06
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Tapedump posted:Yes, Intel Centrino Advanced-N 6205 for Desktop all day long. Unless you have a pressing need for 3x3 MIMO. (You don't.) I just picked up the 6235 for my laptop since the included Atheros 9485 would crap on itself every time I tried to transfer more than a gigabyte or two wirelessly. So far I'm loving it. Even better that it has bluetooth 4.0 built in so I could get rid of the Asus mini bluetooth dongle that liked to quit working randomly.
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May 24, 2013 03:44
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Thanks for the recommendations. I have a lot to learn from the Asus RT-N66U. I think it's a little to early to dive into custom firmware and I need to stop fiddling around with the antennas. I get little-to-no reception across the room if they're off by 1 cm. Talk about finicky.
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May 24, 2013 06:34
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It might be time to try custom firmware, or better yet perhaps a RMA. That sounds rather awful and has been far from my experience with N66Us. At least check for Asus firmware updates, if nothing else. What kind of area/building do you live in, and can we get a screenshot of you running Inssider from your environment? Tapedump fucked around with this message at 06:45 on May 24, 2013 |
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May 24, 2013 06:41
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I'll definately try it out when I get home from work. This morning I've been hearing nothing but complaints from the family that the signal drops or hangs while just web browsing. I have the Newest firmware through Asus and been stumbling on which third-party firmware to install. Is it really possible to brick the router? FYI: it's on sale on Amazon for $135.99 right now.
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May 24, 2013 17:40
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I just moved into an apartment above a dentist office that wants to let me use their guest wifi, but can't get a decent signal. anyone have any experience with one of these guys? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...words%29&Page=1 I get 2 bars wifi right now, and can stream Hulu plus with massive buffering, will that make it faster? Steam user as well, but I expect my speeds to be slower with that anyways got a smart tv, ps3, 360, desktop, macbook pro, 2 ipads an iphone and a blackberry to connect Wow I feel like a piece of poo poo typing that John Romero fucked around with this message at 17:53 on May 24, 2013 |
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May 24, 2013 17:48
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I'm trying to fragment my network right now so that only PCs physically wired to it can access shared files/the server, while wireless clients only get internet. My setup so far had been as follows. Modem -> Linksys WRT54G2 -> various devices (wired and wireless) What I've done right now is turn off wireless access on the WRT54G and plugged in a separate router into one of the WRT54Gs ports (using the second router's WAN port), set it on a different subnet (eg: the WRT54G is 192.168.1.1, and the new router is 192.168.2.1), and let that second router hand out IPs on its own subnet. So now it goes: Modem -> Linksys WRT54G2 -> wired devices -> generic router on different subnet -> wireless devices. This apparently works. I get internet on all wireless devices but they don't see any of the wired devices (at least from Windows). Is this enough, or will someone with a minimum of networking skills be able to bypass that limitation? Is there any "correct" way of doing this?
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May 24, 2013 22:07
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Two ways I have done this: 1) with broadband where I have more than one public IP, just put the wireless network on its own public IP/different router and enable ap isolation if I don't even want the wireless clients to talk to each other. Run the wired/private wireless network on another router/IP. 2) with the 'guest network' feature on newer apple routers I think your way is kind of hacky and will lead to double NAT problems (which might not matter) on the wireless network, but maybe it works?
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May 24, 2013 22:26
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Ur Getting Fatter posted:I'm trying to fragment my network right now so that only PCs physically wired to it can access shared files/the server, while wireless clients only get internet. This won't block IP traffic to the wired devices network unless you add some IP tables rules such that the "generic router" doesn't allow it's devices to talk to any of the local (RFC 1918) networks. In a setup like that, you could be able to ping a wired device from one of your wireless devices unless there is something on the generic router blocking the packets.
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May 24, 2013 23:21
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Fly posted:This won't block IP traffic to the wired devices network unless you add some IP tables rules such that the "generic router" doesn't allow it's devices to talk to any of the local (RFC 1918) networks. Is there any way to do this via protocol blocking? The router has a few options regarding that. Worst comes to worst, I don't have much of a problem with getting a better router that could do this. In fact, I originally was going to buy a Linksys E900 and set it on Bridge-Repeater mode, but just as I was to buy it I found the old generic router (it's an Encore ENHWI-G3, in case anyone was wondering) and decided to see if I could save myself a few bucks.
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May 25, 2013 01:07
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I recently purchased an ASUS RT-N66R (same as the N66U) to replace my current router which has had DD-WRT on it for the last few years. After some research I can't seem to find any concrete guides for installing builds of DD-WRT onto the N66 without it breaking something/bricking it. Tomato seems to lack information as well. It seems like the best option is the ASUS-Merlin firmware. Does anyone have any recommendations/advice/experience on which third-party firmware works well with this router? Should I avoid DD-WRT or Tomato entirely?
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May 25, 2013 01:11
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Is the extra $40 for the N66U worth it over the N56U? $135 vs. $95 on amazon. Edit: Ugh, and it's back to $150. Waltzing Along fucked around with this message at 05:15 on May 25, 2013 |
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May 25, 2013 04:24
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A Lag Cloud posted:Does anyone have any recommendations/advice/experience on which third-party firmware works well with this router? Note to Ur Getting Fatter: The last half of this procedure was to get a guest wireless network with total isolation from anything except internet access. You might find something helpful in using iptables rather than a two router solution, for the reasons Dogen listed. quote:Following guide http://charleswilkinson.co.uk/2012/12/22/dd-wrt-on-the-asus-rt-n66u-with-64k-cfe/
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May 25, 2013 04:59
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