|
With an accessport you can have the car automatically cut throttle for you at a certain rpm (or just at redline) so that you can keep your foot to the floor while shifting. Still might not be good for the syncros or transmission in some cases but not the same as just letting the engine bang off the limiter between shifts. I can really only see it being useful at the drag strip.
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 00:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 23:09 |
|
|
jamal posted:With an accessport you can have the car automatically cut throttle for you at a certain rpm (or just at redline) so that you can keep your foot to the floor while shifting. Still might not be good for the syncros or transmission in some cases but not the same as just letting the engine bang off the limiter between shifts. I can really only see it being useful at the drag strip. I should have mentioned that I was using an AP. I had always thought that the gearbox could not be under load in order for proper synchro mesh, and doing so was taking years of life out of the transmission. Thanks for the info, I'll leave it for my non-existent drag races!
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 01:22
|
|
|
On the topic of manual shifting and boost is it possible to shift fast enough with a manual to maintain boost? A co-worker with a WRX was saying that it wasn't (or at least not safe on the car to try and do) which was an advantage to automatic transmission cars with respect to having a turbo.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 01:42
|
|
|
il serpente cosmico posted:As in, keeping the accelerator pushed in while shifting? Not a good idea--it's going to cause a lot of wear and tear on your drivetrain. My buddy had it on his 07 WRX wagon and it maintained boost extremely well. Launching and then using FFS was a hell of a lot more insane than just pulling off and going WOT and letting off the gas each shift.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 01:52
|
|
|
Totally TWISTED posted:On the topic of manual shifting and boost is it possible to shift fast enough with a manual to maintain boost? A co-worker with a WRX was saying that it wasn't (or at least not safe on the car to try and do) which was an advantage to automatic transmission cars with respect to having a turbo.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 01:55
|
|
|
Totally TWISTED posted:On the topic of manual shifting and boost is it possible to shift fast enough with a manual to maintain boost? A co-worker with a WRX was saying that it wasn't (or at least not safe on the car to try and do) which was an advantage to automatic transmission cars with respect to having a turbo. Yes it is and it's also possible to do that without slamming the poo poo out of the gearbox. To answer the flatshift question - it's strictly for racing. STRICTLY. And only if your ECU is programmed to know you are doing it so you dont blow the poo poo out of gearboxes, cluthces, diffs and oooooooh man I can just imagine the damage -_- Flatshift is also NOT good for synchros - you are basically going against them, you will break one or more likely most of them. Flatshift is best for dog boxes where it's built for it and even designed to be explicitly easier to shift if you keep the pedal nailed and you go for the next gear s fast as humanly possible. Which is also why dog boxes work better with sequential or hydro-pnumatic paddle actuation, you can really hustle the gear change. Synchros dont like that. Thence leave flat change for racing and for a dog box.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 01:59
|
|
|
This weekend I took my STi along with two friends (06 STi and a Type-R) to Gingerman and Gratten raceways for some lapping days. It performed flawlessly even including the 6 hour drives to the tracks from home. I put over 1,000 miles in 4 days and I got over 3 hours of track time. My new whiteline com-c's that I ordered from Jamal performed great. Here have a picture. 
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 02:13
|
|
|
DrakeriderCa posted:Isn't one of our resident Subaru guru's from Alberta? If so, could you give me a recommendation on a good mechanic to work on my Forester in the Edmonton area (preferably the west side or spruce/stony)? My friend with a turbo Scooby wagon has nothing but good things to say about these guys: http://apexspecialized.ca/ They unfortunately aren't on the west end.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 02:19
|
|
|
How are we defining FFS? Are we defining it as flooring the car, clutch in, shift, clutch out? I know that the Cobb OTS FFS only works if the clutch is in.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 02:25
|
|
|
Yakattak posted:How are we defining FFS? Are we defining it as flooring the car, clutch in, shift, clutch out? I know that the Cobb OTS FFS only works if the clutch is in. Either with or without clutch, dont matter. On a dog box the change is best done without the clutch being touched
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 02:35
|
|
|
With syncros you need to use the clutch. Trying to float gears, especially at full throttle is just asking to blow up a syncro or destroy the engagement teeth.G-Mach posted:This weekend I took my STi along with two friends (06 STi and a Type-R) to Gingerman and Gratten raceways for some lapping days. It performed flawlessly even including the 6 hour drives to the tracks from home. I put over 1,000 miles in 4 days and I got over 3 hours of track time. My new whiteline com-c's that I ordered from Jamal performed great. Sweet. Steering feel a little better now?
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 03:30
|
|
|
DrakeriderCa posted:Isn't one of our resident Subaru guru's from Alberta? If so, could you give me a recommendation on a good mechanic to work on my Forester in the Edmonton area (preferably the west side or spruce/stony)? Usually I get work done in Calgary by Vex Performance; Allmakes is awful and should be fled from as much as possible. For dealership work or parts travel to Red Deer to get Scott Subaru involved - they are by far the best Western Canadian Subaru dealership. In Edmonton I have heard good things about Apex Specialized but I have also been told that they gouge on some jobs. Most of the time someone in the local Subaru club (Western Subaru Club) will either direct you to a good shop for it or help you do it in your own garage.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 03:38
|
|
|
jamal posted:With syncros you need to use the clutch. Trying to float gears, especially at full throttle is just asking to blow up a syncro or destroy the engagement teeth. It's like a night and day difference. My RS3's managed to survive the ordeal and surprisingly have a lot of life left in them as well. I managed to get some clean laps during both lapping days and ran some pretty decent times according to my free timing app. Gingerman: 1.46.01 Gratten: 1.29.80 Gratten has a bunch of blind corners with elevation changes in them. I'd whole heartily recommend a track day there. Here is a trip report from my friend with the type-r: quote:GingerMan - Been a while since I've been back there. They extended the track and it's awesome coming out of the combination 7,8,9 turns full throttle into 10 which starts as a downhill turn then exits uphill. The Type R was pretty slow compared to the STi's at this track trailing them by over 10 seconds. I normally three wheel a lot, but I have never two wheeled a car before.  My friend in the 06 STi took some video while at Gratten as well. Since it was both our first times at both tracks there is a lot of time left in our laps for improvement. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAa6gLvWYAs
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 03:44
|
|
|
What is the normal procedure for researching a particular vehicle that happens to be 6 hours away? Wife and I are looking for a 07 WRX wagon (drat near impossible to find any anywhere) and found one in Ohio. We are not sure how to proceed with vetting the car. I assume we should find a mechanic, have him give it the once over and proceed from there. Can anyone recommend a mechanic who knows subarus near Cleveland? Is this a bad idea and should I just keep looking closer to home?
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2013 22:52
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAYjiwq01MA Had a good race Memorial Day at Lime Rock Park. Held down the Subaru cred against Nissan. Was a great race against the Nissan 240SX which was in my class. Had a nice offroad excursion at 19:17 but was able to get going before he caught back up.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2013 01:14
|
|
|
Hey guys, If I crack open my rear differential or completely remove the cover - will I run into complications if I don't replace the gasket? I'm fixing to change my fluid, fill plug came out nicely but the drain plug is very stubborn. Tried heating it up, breaker bar and even using a jack for leverage. Only thing that came from all of that was the plug starting to strip. I thought about taking it to a muffler shop and have an extension weld onto it but figured if I could just pop off the cover then i'd do that. It's for a 99RS.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2013 02:57
|
|
|
Saerjin posted:Hey guys, You can't just pop the cover... You have to remove the diff from the car to do that. And if you remove the diff, just tip it on its back to drain the oil out the fill hole. About the gasket, though. I just reuse them with some ultra grey permatex. Are you using a 13mm square drive socket to remove the plugs? Because they're actually 13mm, not 1/2". 1/2" is only 12.7mm, so if it's really stuck you're gonna round it out just using a 1/2" socket extension. chrisgt fucked around with this message at 03:10 on May 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2013 03:05
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:You can't just pop the cover... You have to remove the diff from the car to do that. And if you remove the diff, just tip it on its back to drain the oil out the fill hole. Nope I was using bare end of a 1/2", I don't have a 13mm square socket and the 1/2 worked well for the fill plug so I tried my luck on the drain. Something tells me completely removing the diff is a whole lot of work just to drain and refill. I suppose i'll go get a 13mm socket tomorrow at the ol harbor freight and give it a shot. I did read about someone removing 2 bolts to crack it open though and drain it that way, but wouldn't that not be so good considering if you do that you aren't removing any metal shavings or fully inspecting any metal coming out just as a sign of major damages? I think there's still some hope for a 13mm square socket. it's somewhat rounded on 2 corners but with a correct fit it might be golden. edit: Part of the reason why I think the filler plug worked so well was the angle it was on, I used the jack to break it loose. Drain plug is positioned where I can only have the wrench dead 90 degrees, no angle for real leverage or room on the side to jack it up to break it.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2013 03:15
|
|
|
Couldn't you just use a transfer pump with some flex hose till it runs dry? I don't know if this seems sacrilegious in the world of maintenance, but it seems like a world's difference between dropping the entire assembly and just sticking in some hose and pumping away.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2013 03:24
|
|
|
To drain diffs, we heat both plugs with oxy/ace and then pop them with a 1/2 inch breaker bar. I've done 5+ diffs this way and never had an issue. It isn't hard to remove them from the car at all really. You can do it with a jack and hand tools. I like to take them out, knock all the rust off, drain them completely with the fill holes facing the ground, then reinstall and fill them.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2013 13:41
|
|
|
I just use a electric rattle gun. Then again Australia doesn't have corrosion issues so nothing other than a loving big hammer Ive ever used used outside of that.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2013 14:20
|
|
|
My 02 Outback H6 started acting funny. When under a bit of load or trying to settle at a speed there's a little surging, like it can't make up it's mind what RPM to stay at. When slowing down it takes a while to downshift. The CEL came on. Checked it out and got P0171. It also started idling funny. When coming to stop or going to neutral, it jumps to about 2000 RPM for maybe 10 seconds then drops to like 300 then settles up to 500, where it usually idles. As soon as I put it in gear or drive again I can feel the high RPM as it really wants to start pulling. I'm thinking maybe something to do with the MAF? Going to try to troubleshoot some more. I'm just curious if the weird idling and CEL code have been seen together before.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 00:24
|
|
|
AzureSkys posted:My 02 Outback H6 started acting funny. When under a bit of load or trying to settle at a speed there's a little surging, like it can't make up it's mind what RPM to stay at. When slowing down it takes a while to downshift. The CEL came on. Checked it out and got P0171. I found this for ya Some Ford dude posted:Very common symptoms we all have at one time or another with our 5.4L is a rough idle where we will have high idle for a few seconds when slowing or coming to a stop followed by a drop off to a very low rough idle after stopped for a few seconds sometimes even to the point of stalling out. Source: http://www.expeditionforum.com/f48/rough-idle-cel-p0171-p0174-some-simple-things-check-first-10745/
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 00:31
|
|
|
Probably a vacuum leak after the MAF. I had similar problems but not that code from a failing MAF (mine was instead too rich). MAF failure is rare and expensive.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 00:42
|
|
|
Soarer posted:I found this for ya Seat Safety Switch posted:Probably a vacuum leak after the MAF. Awesome, thank you. I'll start poking around to see what I can find. Really hope it's as simple as that.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 01:05
|
|
|
AzureSkys posted:Awesome, thank you. I'll start poking around to see what I can find. Really hope it's as simple as that. I'd take off the rubber hosing after the MAF, especially anything that looks like  Bend the hose and look for cracks or rips between the rubber ribs. In fact bend it all, because leaking cracks can hide in a rubber hose, but when bent open right up. Another method is to apply soap and water to areas and look for bubbles.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 01:41
|
|
|
You can also spray MAF cleaner at the hose in various spots while the car idles. If the RPM starts to race after fogging one location it's probably got a leak.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 02:07
|
|
|
Soarer posted:Another method is to apply soap and water to areas and look for bubbles. Isn't that only for pressurized systems? The intake is under vacuum and wouldn't be pushing air out (unlike a leaking bike tire or BBQ fitting which would bubble from bleeding air).
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 02:54
|
|
|
There is no MAF on an '02 H6; it's MAP based.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 03:14
|
|
|
dyne posted:There is no MAF on an '02 H6; it's MAP based. Having unmetered air is not really great for MAP sensors either.  But thanks, that makes sense.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 03:52
|
|
|
Sockington posted:Isn't that only for pressurized systems? The intake is under vacuum and wouldn't be pushing air out (unlike a leaking bike tire or BBQ fitting which would bubble from bleeding air). It works on vacuum systems too. The air pulling on it will cause bubbles to form and pop.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 06:05
|
|
|
It was late and raining so I couldn't get too in depth to see. My Air Intake Chamber thing is a bit beat up. Not sure what the previous owner did or if it's cracked. I'll have time this weekend to check it in depth. I also came across this: http://www.furi-dorifto.com/tech/Subaru_dox/ISCSpring04.pdf and it says "If you encounter a driveability concern such as idle surges or whistling, it may be caused by carbon buildup on the idle speed control (ISC) valve." There's always been a whistle/whine sound from the intake area. I got a gasket and will maybe pull the IACV off to clean it well according to this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781242
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 14:26
|
|
|
I need to replace the upper radiator reservoir on my 03 wrx because it's leaking from the welds on the neck, where it joins the tank. I can only get the new style plastic ones and the whole unit, mine is the original aluminum. So.. can I just undo the five odd bolts on top and replace with the new top plate and gasket? Have an aluminum tank with a plastic top? e: newer style is a completely sealed unit so I clearly cannot do this, whoops, ignore. Synonamess Botch fucked around with this message at 15:32 on May 31, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 14:35
|
|
|
Synonamess Botch posted:I need to replace the upper radiator reservoir on my 03 wrx because it's leaking from the welds on the neck, where it joins the tank. I can only get the new style plastic ones and the whole unit, mine is the original aluminum. So.. can I just undo the five odd bolts on top and replace with the new top plate and gasket? Have an aluminum tank with a plastic top? Couldn't you just get the aluminum welds touched up?
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 16:29
|
|
|
So I'm looking at an '03 Impreza TS hopefully sometime this weekend - I can't seem to find any pictures of what an MLS vs. regular gasket looks like when you're looking at the top of the engine in the engine bay. Almost guaranteed it's going to be a regular gasket from the sound of the OP though. 
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 16:43
|
|
|
You'll be able to tell just looking at the gasket where it sticks out between the block and heads. The layers of MLS gaskets separate a little there because they are being squeezed together. The non mls gasket is just one layer of steel with a coating.Synonamess Botch posted:I need to replace the upper radiator reservoir on my 03 wrx because it's leaking from the welds on the neck, where it joins the tank. I can only get the new style plastic ones and the whole unit, mine is the original aluminum. So.. can I just undo the five odd bolts on top and replace with the new top plate and gasket? Have an aluminum tank with a plastic top? There are a couple of aftermarket aluminum tanks out there. Crawford and Moroso make them and there are probably a couple others if you want to go that way. They're about $150 though.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 17:45
|
|
|
jamal posted:You'll be able to tell just looking at the gasket where it sticks out between the block and heads. The layers of MLS gaskets separate a little there because they are being squeezed together. The non mls gasket is just one layer of steel with a coating. Don't worry, Jamal. Sent him a 1.75mb photo of my gaskets from the requested angle (MLS).
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 22:22
|
|
|
This is it:
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2013 22:23
|
|
|
I cleaned the IACV as best as I could. All the vacuum hoses look fine. The chamber air-intake is a mess, though. For some reason it's got epoxy all over the back and bottom. I sealed it up and put light compressed air in and sprayed with soapy water. Bubbles everywhere. It's Part # 14435AA074. Looks to be around $110 new. I'll check some wrecking yards in the morning, too. I really hope this is all that's causing the issues. Also, the Duct Air Intake PN 46012AE06B is missing. Is that important? AzureSkys fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Jun 1, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2013 02:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 23:09 |
|
|
The snorkel (46012AE06B) isn't a huge deal, but the other you definitely need sealed. Without the snorkel, you'll just get hotter air in your intake. I'd still recommend getting it though. If it's the same as a WRX one, people throw them away all the time so it should be cheap. If the other piece is leaking, then your air meter isn't really doing it job of reporting how much air is going into your engine. If you strike out at the junkyard, post a WTB on a forum for your specific car and I'm sure somebody can help you out that's parting out a car.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2013 05:51
|
|
