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but this is more amber honey liquid with a rooty, earthy finish :/ I have 90% of the stuff on hand still, maybe trying a 1 gal batch to get the ratios right is best..
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Jun 4, 2013 17:47
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Huh, I had no idea the aromas could be cooked off. Definitely going to change that the next time I do a batch. Thanks! Yup, I've made my last 4 or 5 batches of mead using the "no heat method". This is where you just sanitize your pot, add your water, dissolve the honey, add it to your fermenter and pitch your yeast. Micheal, owner / meadmaker at Moonlight Meadery, heats his honey to around 80 degrees just to get it to flow better through the pumps.
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Jun 4, 2013 17:57
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Yup, I've made my last 4 or 5 batches of mead using the "no heat method". This is where you just sanitize your pot, add your water, dissolve the honey, add it to your fermenter and pitch your yeast. Micheal, owner / meadmaker at Moonlight Meadery, heats his honey to around 80 degrees just to get it to flow better through the pumps. You boil the water first I imagine? I wouldn't think one would need to boil honey, the only reason I can think is so it dissolves better (maybe). I really need to make a mead. Augh.
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Jun 4, 2013 18:08
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Yup, I've made my last 4 or 5 batches of mead using the "no heat method". This is where you just sanitize your pot, add your water, dissolve the honey, add it to your fermenter and pitch your yeast. Micheal, owner / meadmaker at Moonlight Meadery, heats his honey to around 80 degrees just to get it to flow better through the pumps. At that point why not just mix it in the fermenter? I guess it wouldn't be viable in a carboy. Looking forward to cider more and more.
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Jun 4, 2013 18:08
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Dead Inside Darwin posted:You boil the water first I imagine? I wouldn't think one would need to boil honey, the only reason I can think is so it dissolves better (maybe). When I did my mead, I did not bother to boil the water first because I used municipal water which is pretty close to sanitary already. I did crush and dissolve a single Campden tab in it - not to sanitize, but just to strip chlorine/chloramine. I used warmish water straight from the faucet, and stirred warmed honey into it, then added yeast and nutrients.
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Jun 4, 2013 18:17
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@Dead inside Darwin : I guess if you were using tap water, I've been using the pre-packaged Gallon jugs of water as my source, I've only sanitized the pot and mixing tools. yup, the warmer the Solvent (I think that's the one) the easier it is for the Solute (reverse if necessary) to dissolve. If you're ever making a bochet (where you do boil the honey for a period of time, to caramelize the honey), you'll notice the honey get very watery right before it starts to foam up like a sea monster. @Beer for the Beer god : You can mix everything in the fermenter. It's harder to do for a carboy than a bucket. But you may end up with honey sitting at the bottom. This is actually a type of mead process that you can do and it has its own long process name (I cant remember it). But it makes gravity readings impossible to take as the gravity is not consistent throughout the batch.
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Jun 4, 2013 18:21
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That reminds me, I've got some honey I've been meaning to make into a few small batches of mead. One of them, I'd like to lightly hop. Just the barest hint of bitterness, and a stronger citrusy aroma/flavor. Any recommendations for hop selection with that goal in mind?
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Jun 4, 2013 18:27
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I had a bottle of mead explode on me overnight. Must mean it's ready to drink!
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Jun 4, 2013 18:30
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Not a master of hops, but isn't that just a matter of not boiling it for very long? For the citrusy-ness you can zest a lemon and an orange and use that in the mead. That should help out big time in that department. Edit: @ Wiggles, just check the rest of the bottles that they aren't also carbonated / over-carbed. It's one of the dangers of bottling mead too early.
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Jun 4, 2013 18:31
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Not a master of hops, but isn't that just a matter of not boiling it for very long? For the citrusy-ness you can zest a lemon and an orange and use that in the mead. That should help out big time in that department. Right, that's how you get the various characteristics, but different hops have different aromas/flavors, and I was looking for advice on which ones might better accentuate those values. 
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Jun 4, 2013 18:35
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Bad Munki posted:That reminds me, I've got some honey I've been meaning to make into a few small batches of mead. One of them, I'd like to lightly hop. Just the barest hint of bitterness, and a stronger citrusy aroma/flavor. Any recommendations for hop selection with that goal in mind? I love Summit for it's grapefruit flavors, and it's fairly high alpha acids, a late addition of that should do the trick
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Jun 4, 2013 18:42
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Edit: @ Wiggles, just check the rest of the bottles that they aren't also carbonated / over-carbed. It's one of the dangers of bottling mead too early. It was kind of a crap shoot on this batch (it's the one I did with the ale yeast) and it got pretty warm in the house yesterday so it's not completely surprising. I was hoping that it would get pretty sparkly.
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Jun 4, 2013 18:46
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Bad Munki posted:That reminds me, I've got some honey I've been meaning to make into a few small batches of mead. One of them, I'd like to lightly hop. Just the barest hint of bitterness, and a stronger citrusy aroma/flavor. Any recommendations for hop selection with that goal in mind? If you're counting on bitterness I'd double check honey will actually isomerise alpha acids since I think its an acid catalyzed thing.
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Jun 4, 2013 20:35
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Since we are on mead chat, I've got a few pounds of honey that have completely crystallized for some reason (wasn't refrigerated). I wouldn't use it for mead but it's probably still fine for a beer addition right? Also why does it do that.
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Jun 4, 2013 20:37
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zedprime posted:If you're counting on bitterness I'd double check honey will actually isomerise alpha acids since I think its an acid catalyzed thing. I'm not, I'm trying to keep the bitterness very low. If the isometric catalytic conversion acid dropping thing you're talking about means no alpha acids will actually be extracted, well, I imagine I could make some sort of malt-based hop tincture something or other, I don't know, it's all experimental anyhow.
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Jun 4, 2013 20:40
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fullroundaction posted:Since we are on mead chat, I've got a few pounds of honey that have completely crystallized for some reason (wasn't refrigerated). I wouldn't use it for mead but it's probably still fine for a beer addition right? It's perfectly fine, the taste won't be affected or anything. Honey crystallizes because that's what happens when you have a ton of sugar molecules in an environment with relatively low levels of water.
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Jun 4, 2013 20:42
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Jmcrofts posted:It's perfectly fine, the taste won't be affected or anything. Honey crystallizes because that's what happens when you have a ton of sugar molecules in an environment with relatively low levels of water. Yup, and if you warm it up some, it should mostly de-crystallize. Mead quality shouldn't be effected by crystallized honey (just harder to get out of the container).
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Jun 4, 2013 21:02
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I never, ever do this sort of thing (post chat logs) but I couldn't help but share this lovely conversation I had with Midwest customer support a moment ago... Midwest Support: How may I help you today? Me: mind looking into order [number] for me? Me: ordered on 5/21 Me: still in the 'Processing' phase Midwest Support: That item is on my backorder list, actually. Me: I literally forgot I ordered it until I got an email a minute ago from Midwest asking me to rate my experience on the package I received in the past few days Me: that's funny, because it wasn't on the backorder list when I ordered it and it's not showing backordered right now on that product page Midwest Support: I also see that. Let me run to the warehouse and look on the shelf to be sure. Midwest Support: Yeah. The shelf is completely empty. I will have to let the IT department know to take those off of the webstie. Midwest Support: *website Midwest Support: I'm sorry about the confusion and the lack of communication about this. Midwest Support: Normally, we sent phone calls or emails for backordered items. Me: here's my problem...I kinda locked myself into the Brew Logic line of parts Midwest Support: That you were not notified is a serious error on our part. Me: and now it seems I'm unable to buy a replacement for a part that broke Me: are there parts which are compatible with the brew logic line of adapters (male/female connector sizes seem to be what makes it different than generic parts)? Midwest Support: I'm sure there are parts that would fit, but we don't sell them. Midwest Support: Which isn't much help to you... Midwest Support: If I were you, I would consider some of the other homebrew supply stores. Midwest Support: Like Northern Brewer or Austin Midwest Support: They might have some in stock. Midwest Support: That way, you're not left waiting for this long. Me: it seems midwest is the only place which sells the brew logic equipment, which is frustrating... on that product page, it explicitly says "This is NOT compatible with Cornelius Double CO2 Regulators. It may only be used with Brew Logic Regulators." Me: that was one in a chain of 4 regulators Me: so i'm fairly well-invested in these parts as it is Midwest Support: Which makes this backorder situation a greater problem for you. Me: heh, pretty much. Midwest Support: I wish there was more I could do for you, but until the supplier sends them, I don't have anything to give to you. I'm not sure which emotion is stronger, my shock at his blunt honesty or my frustration that they can't keep in stock a part which is kinda proprietary and as far as I can tell prevents me from using alternative fittings to replace. On the plus side, I got another $10 added to my gift card I was planning on using on this order, which was from a previously lovely experience with Midwest. "If I were you, I would consider some of the other homebrew supply stores. Like Northern Brewer or Austin" - yes, truer words cannot be spoken.
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Jun 4, 2013 21:38
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I'm telling you guys, Label peelers is the bees knees. They might not have a ton of keg stuff, But they have great shipping options and tons of everything else. And they're always havign sales and discount codes and what not.
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Jun 4, 2013 21:43
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poo poo, I was just googling for BrewLogic regulators, and I found them on Amazon. For a minute, I was all excited, but then I noticed that they are sold by Midwest - and still showing as in stock.
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Jun 4, 2013 22:42
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Thanks for the honey advice. I love homebrew shop customer service. NB and Austin and Hop Shack have always been amazing/quick to respond or replace anything I've had a problem with, no questions asked. I think the Midwest dude handled the conversation as best as he could considering the circumstance. I mean I'd rather hear that than be fed a bunch of bullshit.
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Jun 4, 2013 23:01
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Jo3sh posted:poo poo, I was just googling for BrewLogic regulators, and I found them on Amazon. For a minute, I was all excited, but then I noticed that they are sold by Midwest - and still showing as in stock. Yeah, I didn't include it in the chatlog but I asked the guy "hypothetically, what would happen if I bought this off your Amazon or eBay page?" His response: "Sometimes, other people will re-sell or buy and re-sell products from us through ebay. But if it's from our warehouse, then it would still be backordered." I'm trolling around various forums in hopes someone is looking to unload a unit. Next step will be to take one of my working regulators into my local homebrew shops and Home Depot and see if I can't just make something work with adapters. If all that fails, expect a For Sale post coming from me in this thread for 3 fully functional dual regulators.
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Jun 4, 2013 23:07
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I'm not sure I believe the mantra that boiling honey removed all the flavor. I had three pounds boiling for 45 min and the resulting products after its all done very strongly remains honey flavored
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Jun 4, 2013 23:11
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fullroundaction posted:Thanks for the honey advice. Nah, exactly, it was shockingly frank and honest, and I *did* appreciate that. At the same time, not updating me on something being out of stock is a failure on their part and pretty poor business practices (which, again, he bluntly acknowledges). Midwest's customer service for people who have problems is quite good - I believe I've expounded on that exact nature of their business not long ago in this thread - but the links in the chain leading up to those moments their customers need support have issues they must improve upon. Plus side, if I can find anything I need to buy from them (that's in stock), I'm up to a solid $20 in gift codes to blow there.
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Jun 4, 2013 23:11
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So . . . It looks like my brew buddy traded 1/2 of our solera Gueuze for some sketchy Flanders Red. The beer smells quite acetic. I haven't brewed a Flanders Red so I'm not quite sure how to deal with this problem. Dilution + time, I suppose but if you have any other suggestions I'm all ears. It is in a 15.5 gal keg with an oak chair leg in the top, if that helps. Does anyone know if Brett production of esterase is oxygen-dependent? If so, cutting off the O2 might help. Anyway, figured someone might have some suggestions.
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Jun 4, 2013 23:44
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, the great thing about a blowoff tube is that it's no WORSE than an airlock, so you can just use that exclusively, and count your blessings when it proves important. I've also done the thing with a hose on the end of an airlock (a racking hose fits almost perfectly on the center cylinder of your typical 3-piece airlock) but the problem there is that the crud still has to get up into the hose, and the bottom of those airlocks is usually only built with a series of tiny holes. Not to mention that for a proper blowoff tube, a hose that size really isn't big enough. Hopefully 5/8" ID will do, but if I need to make it bigger, I can always go back and upgrade at minimal cost. That's why I Dremeled off that bit at the bottom, so that there was less restriction for airflow (and potential yeastflow).
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Jun 5, 2013 01:09
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http://bit.ly/13DVck5 24-gallon AND 17.5-gallon stainless steel pots, sold as a pair, with lids, for under $70 shipped for me. This is almost one of those "I don't need it now, but maybe I'll need it in the future?" sorts of things.
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Jun 5, 2013 01:27
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Roundboy posted:I'm not sure I believe the mantra that boiling honey removed all the flavor. Sure, it's going to taste like honey. The no-boil stance is for the more volatile and subtle aromatics and flavors. You'd want to compare high end honey that's raw and that's been boiled.
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Jun 5, 2013 01:49
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wattershed posted:http://bit.ly/13DVck5 I looked at those, and I'm strongly tempted, but they look so thin/cheaply made I don't think they'll stand up to repeated abuse.
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Jun 5, 2013 01:52
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Ubik posted:That's why I Dremeled off that bit at the bottom, so that there was less restriction for airflow (and potential yeastflow). Which is a good start, but still nothing compared to the 3/4" of blowoff capacity I have now! 
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Jun 5, 2013 02:13
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nmfree posted:Just to clarify, it looks like the deal includes 4 pots in total. those rivets holding the handles on is something i would NOT look forward to using to pick up 90 quarts of hot liquid. unless at that size you are just drilling for a valve.
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Jun 5, 2013 02:44
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Roundboy posted:those rivets holding the handles on is something i would NOT look forward to using to pick up 90 quarts of hot liquid.
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Jun 5, 2013 02:49
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baquerd posted:Sure, it's going to taste like honey. The no-boil stance is for the more volatile and subtle aromatics and flavors. You'd want to compare high end honey that's raw and that's been boiled. You got it. My first mead tasted just fine, really sweet because it stalled, but just right. But it didn't smell like anything. I treated it like a beer and boiled it in water for 15 minutes, and didnt have a wort chiller for it. There's no real reason to boil beyond not having to spritz your pot and utensils with sanitizer. There's definitely arguments on both sides, so I don't want to start anything, but if your only cooking your honey to be clean the point is kinda moot. A couple reasons to boil, would be a bochet, where you caramelize the honey for a period of time. That process changes the characteristics of the honey completely. Or if you wanted to neutralize the aroma to allow other additions to stand out, like vanilla or berries or flowers etc.
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Jun 5, 2013 03:13
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Oak Cubes question: how long until all of the flavor is leeched out of them? I have 2 oz of French Oak that were sitting in a beer for 6 months, and that one is pretty drat Oakey. I want the bugs that were in that last beer, which I have heard infect oak really well and are a good way to transfer bugs, but I do not want a lot of oak in this beer. Any worries?
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Jun 5, 2013 05:53
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Okay I finally got my first brew on the way. My saison is in the primary fermenter and this is day two. Should I be worried if I don't see the airlock glug-glug glugging? I cracked the lid a little to peek in and it's got a bit of frothy scummy yeast stuff I guess around the ring at the top and it smells a little winey. There's no massive obnoxious krausen though so I'm not sure if I should be freaking out or going to my brew shop to get another vial to re-pitch or what. Am I freaking out too much? 
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Jun 5, 2013 05:55
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Yup, but that's normal for a first brew. Relax, have a beer. The glug, glug is a pretty piss-poop indicator of activity. The foam means it's working. It's going to be fine.
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Jun 5, 2013 05:57
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My pots and such are generally 50 litres (13.2 US gallon/10.9 UK gallon) and mashtun 55litres / (14.5 US gallon/12.1 UK gallon), not really done a full 10UK gallon batch yet and was wondering before I have a go, the headroom for the boil wouldn't go past the 10.9 UK gallon mark if I kept poo poo together / under controll? Never had boil over before in smaller batches in smaller pots but generally is there anything to watch out for with bigger batches and is the set up right? (Normally do single infusion/continuous sparge).Jo3sh posted:Yup, but that's normal for a first brew. Relax, have a beer. 
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Jun 5, 2013 09:30
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From what I understand, temperature control on an ale is most important during the first week of fermentation. I've kept ice in my swamp cooler for a week now, keeping the wort/beer around 62*, and I think it will be ok to bring it up to ambient temperature (~73*) for the next two weeks. How wrong am I?
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Jun 5, 2013 09:38
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RagingBoner posted:From what I understand, temperature control on an ale is most important during the first week of fermentation. I've kept ice in my swamp cooler for a week now, keeping the wort/beer around 62*, and I think it will be ok to bring it up to ambient temperature (~73*) for the next two weeks. How wrong am I? 62 is pretty low for most ale strains that I've seen for the wort to be at.
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Jun 5, 2013 13:40
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My kegerator died a while ago and I don't really want to replace it until I move out of this apartment and have more space to build a keezer. I figure a jockey box would be a decent temporary replacement since I could use one anyway. Does anyone know of anywhere with reasonably priced parts kits or at least a parts list and where I should buy them from?
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Jun 5, 2013 13:41
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