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Budget Monty posted:Finally found time to install all my new air valves so I can get full FBSS, and not just front/back control. Plus with no more "T'd" bags, I don't get "Reverse swaybar syndrome" while cornering now. Do you have a thread concerning this beast? I always loved old school low riders.
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Jun 2, 2013 19:34
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Fucknag posted:That powder coat finish looks slick. I wish it was a powder coat finish or anything close. Its Flowmaster, so I guess their "thing" is making stainless mufflers, but putting something resembling shake can spray paint on them. Scratches off really easy. But from behind the car it looks cool with just the tip visible and the muffler blacked out.
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Jun 2, 2013 19:36
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Discovered a cracked plug on the Blazer. Maybe that's why it was running on 7? Off to the store. And yeah, Monty, please feel free to do a thread about your ride, it's beautiful
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Jun 2, 2013 19:55
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Bumming Your Scene posted:
You are spraying down the hangers with PB Blaster, correct? I've found it actually works pretty well on them.
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Jun 2, 2013 21:26
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White lithium works pretty good too.
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Jun 2, 2013 21:50
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Yeah I let some lube soak in there, finally got the job done, with a bonus: Behold, the Extra Bolt.
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Jun 2, 2013 23:00
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God loving dammit. 
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Jun 3, 2013 00:52
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trouser chili posted:You are spraying down the hangers with PB Blaster, correct? I've found it actually works pretty well on them. Exactly what I was going to say, PB-blaster works wonders on getting exhaust hangar bushings to slide over the steel pegs they go on.
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Jun 3, 2013 00:56
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kastein posted:Exactly what I was going to say, PB-blaster works wonders on getting exhaust hangar bushings to slide over the steel pegs they go on. So am I doing a bad thing by using petroleum jelly on bushings etc. to cram them in / over things? Also this reminds me I've been failing at my duty to spray some exhaust clamps with inox. gently caress welding the silencer thing in position. I don't like upside down welding. I always end up on fire and / or with holes burned through my skin and flesh.
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Jun 3, 2013 01:28
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Did the oil change on the TSX. Last time it was done at a shop since it was winter and snowing out. Today would have been MUCH quicker if they hadn't hired a lowland gorilla to install the filter. Fun times.
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Jun 3, 2013 01:29
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Endless Mike posted:God loving dammit. Oh man, that sucks. Looks like it's just the fender though; hopefully you didn't catch the wheel too.
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Jun 3, 2013 01:42
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Endless Mike posted:God loving dammit. That sucks. Did you dorifto at full opposite lock into something or did somebody just hit you?
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Jun 3, 2013 02:00
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Nah, I was parked in an awkward compact car spot in a parking garage. I was backing out trying to avoid a monster SUV that was sticking too far out and ended up hitting its bumper. The owner came out as I was trying to deal with the police on the phone, looked at it, and said "Don't worry about it" and left. His bumper is pretty much the definition of "it'll buff out" while I got that. I would very, very surprised if the wheel was touched at all.
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Jun 3, 2013 02:04
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Endless Mike posted:Nah, I was parked in an awkward compact car spot in a parking garage. I was backing out trying to avoid a monster SUV that was sticking too far out and ended up hitting its bumper. The owner came out as I was trying to deal with the police on the phone, looked at it, and said "Don't worry about it" and left. His bumper is pretty much the definition of "it'll buff out" while I got that. I would very, very surprised if the wheel was touched at all. Reminds me of when I got rear-ended in my old Tahoe. His headlight and everything around it was basically toast, along with good bits of the grill, hood, and front fender. I had a small dent in my stainless-steel bumper. But then I had to chase him down because he tried to bolt on me. Might've let it slide otherwise, because that bumper was already beat to poo poo anyway and I was planning on replacing it.
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Jun 3, 2013 02:11
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General_Failure posted:So am I doing a bad thing by using petroleum jelly on bushings etc. to cram them in / over things? Sounds good to me. I also use vaseline on my windshield wipers to rejuvenate the rubber, on the MB-Tex dashboard and seats of the 240d, and to hold gaskets in place when working at awkward angles and stuff.
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Jun 3, 2013 02:20
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N is for Nipples posted:Reminds me of when I got rear-ended in my old Tahoe. His headlight and everything around it was basically toast, along with good bits of the grill, hood, and front fender. I had a small dent in my stainless-steel bumper.
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Jun 3, 2013 02:48
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I just hit the interior with the wet-dry vac. It looks much better cleaned up but it still needs a few bits refreshed for it's twelfth birthday in November.
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Jun 3, 2013 02:51
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N is for Nipples posted:Reminds me of when I got rear-ended in my old Tahoe. His headlight and everything around it was basically toast, along with good bits of the grill, hood, and front fender. I had a small dent in my stainless-steel bumper. That's a blessing in disguise, instead of you replacing it, his insurance company replaces it. Sucks that he was a dick and tried to run.
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Jun 3, 2013 03:27
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My car's thirst for oil has been increasingly insatiable the past couple of weeks so I cracked it open  It's a little grimy (24 years of neglect)  Don't ask me why the exhaust manifold outlet is like half the size of block. Also hilariously dirty pistons  Head gasket was blown through in two places. Some slight (cough) buildup on the valves. Head is unfortunately wonkier than a mogul slope and will have to be skimmed.
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Jun 4, 2013 13:16
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Your valve guide seals are also bad and have been so for quite some time (specifically on the exhaust side). That was probably the bulk of your oil consumption before the head gasket issue. Whenever you see that kind of buildup under the valve cover you can be pretty sure there's some blow-by exhaust baking it on.
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Jun 4, 2013 14:58
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Yeah it's a recognised problem on this engine (Toyota 3E-E). At this point there's more things that need replacing than things that looked ok. Had to cut a ring spanner in half at one point to remove a bolt in a cramped spot. I can't decide if I've destroyed a tool or gained two new ones.
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Jun 4, 2013 15:09
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Drove the Fairlane a couple of hundred km. There were a couple of things I wanted to do before going home but it was running really weird so I aborted. I don't even know how to describe it. It sounded and acted like it was dropping multiple cylinders especially when cold in random bursts, throttle response was all over the place, exhaust note sounded off somehow and there were various noises that may or may not have just been imagined. Serpentine belt was chirping too. Something about the sound of the wheels on the ground and the revs seemed off too. I didn't like it at all. On the bright side there was an Autobarn that I dropped in to. Picked up a relay, a four blade fuse holder and a couple of relay mount blocks because they are made from rendered down unicorn farts. It means I can finish the wiring on the thermo fans and driving lights for the Niva.
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Jun 4, 2013 23:15
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It's been nothing but terrible rain and lovely weather out here for the past 8 days so I was happy as a pig in mud to get outside and finally wash my Focus ST: Ewwww brake dust and road crap  Solved that!  And solved the car dirtiness!  The next step now is to add on some mudflaps, and I've been eying the RokBlokz: 
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Jun 5, 2013 00:16
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some texas redneck posted:I really really really really hope it's the master cylinder (which is a known issue on this car) and not the slave (internal slave, gently caress you). Definitely the master - I can smell brake fluid inside the car now, and it's damp around where the clutch goes through the firewall. But after pricing a new master, I suddenly wish it was something else. Turns out it's made of unobtanium - $301 from Rockauto (special order only), and all of the aftermarket replacements I've scared up are discontinued. Anyone know if the same year Cobalt part will work? It's supposedly the same car aside from the body and interior.  I've also dug up something suggesting a 98-04 Cavalier replacement will work, but no confirmation beyond some interchange listings for a Sachs part. 06 Saturn Ion, it's a Delta platform car using the same transmission as the Cobalt.
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Jun 5, 2013 07:27
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I can't imagine that a same-era Cobalt master wouldn't work, although GM could have a had a Manic Monday and decided to use a single model part for whatever reason. I guess they have done that from time to time. Did you price remans from NAPA or anything? I got one for $70 for my Integra that's been working well for about two years now.
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Jun 5, 2013 09:51
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I've had luck with those sort of things on other sites that are cheaper than Rockauto by finding the manufacturer and then googling the part number.
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Jun 5, 2013 13:44
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I looked at NAPA and nope - no master cylinders. eBay turned up a few results that are supposedly GM OE parts although all the sellers have very generic names and relatively low total feedback but the prices are right. How lucky are ya feelin, STR?  http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=2006%20saturn%20ion%20clutch%20master%20cylinder&clk_rvr_id=487554545375
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Jun 5, 2013 13:57
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The Cavalier and the Cobalt family use the same transmission so I would be surprised if the master cylinders aren't interchangeable. Out of pure curiosity, what's a dealer want for it?
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Jun 5, 2013 15:46
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They may use the same transmission and slave cylinder, but the master typically depends on the chassis design not the transmission in use, except for bore diameter and stroke. Pushrod length and end style, mounting bolt pattern, reservoir size/shape, and hydraulic line connection method all depend on who happened to design the pedal box and firewall for the chassis the MC is going in.
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Jun 5, 2013 15:51
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Yeah, it probably gets more complicated since the Cavalier/Cobalt use the same reservoir for both clutch and brake master cylinders. It's probably too much of a gamble.
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Jun 5, 2013 16:31
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The Ion uses the same reservoir for both as well. I haven't checked the dealer yet. Astroman posted:I've had luck with those sort of things on other sites that are cheaper than Rockauto by finding the manufacturer and then googling the part number. The only part listed on Rockauto is AC Delco. Googling the p/n lead me to Amazon, where it could be had for the low, low price of $221. Detroit Q. Spider posted:Did you price remans from NAPA or anything? I got one for $70 for my Integra that's been working well for about two years now. Remans don't exist - the whole thing is plastic.  GM! It probably cost a whole $1 to make..Thanks for the ebay link though  You know you've found a good seller when they show a picture of the slave when they're selling a master cylinder, right?
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Jun 5, 2013 18:33
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Hey I think I communicated my misgivings about the sellers pretty well  I got pretty lucky with a replacement distributor from eBay. The cheapest reman I found was still about 250 but I found a new (probable Chinese knockoff) for 90. It's worked quite well for the year I've had it other than some wonky tach signaling. I don't even know that that's the cause but it did coincide with the installation. Either way it runs fine so I'm not too bent out of shape about it. OTOH the seller page was a lot more confidence inspiring so, yeah... http://myworld.ebay.com/chandlermotorsportsinc
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Jun 5, 2013 20:22
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 Just had these delivered. I'll take a pic after I get them on tonight. Enkei Lusso and RE760s. A bit lighter than stock, and 20mm wider rubber. Going on the Speed3.
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Jun 5, 2013 20:30
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:Hey I think I communicated my misgivings about the sellers pretty well  That's the same seller that I got a new knock sensor from for my Altima.Wound up pulling timing like crazy with it, but it wound up pulling timing because the engine was actually pinging like mad, I just couldn't hear it unless I turned off the stereo/climate control. The tach signal is usually pulled from the cam position sensor, so I'd say your new distributor is acting up (since the cam position sensor is usually part of the dis).
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Jun 5, 2013 21:11
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Put different seats in the the Cherokee over the weekend. Cobbled together later ZJ Grand Cherokee seats with the proper 2-door Cherokee hinges (allows flip-forward), and now I have comfy seats that let me reach the back seat. Cleaned up and treated a leather steering wheel I found in a ZJ that happens to use the same style airbag as my regular Cherokee. Leather is damned near perfect on it. From the fain marks, I think it had a cover on it most of it's life. It's not even dried out a little at the top, which is what I saw on most of the other decent ones. Next: wire up the overhead console I got on the bench to see if the compass/temp thingy works. Ditto for the digital clock upgrade.
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Jun 5, 2013 22:37
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Here they are installed. Please excuse the cell phone camera.  
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Jun 6, 2013 00:56
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Swapped out my interior lighting for LEDs. Crappy cell phone pics:   The dome light is a 30x40mm panel (and I need to figure out a better way to mount it).  Typical cool white you expect from white LEDs, and much much brighter than the original bulbs, though they don't match perfectly. Only downside: they stay slightly (and I mean just barely noticeable) lit all the time.  e: took a photo from outside the car. Holy poo poo that dome light is loving painful to look at   randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 01:26
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some texas redneck posted:
Makes sense but as I said - it's running fine, the tach just jumps around. Not gonna mess with it.
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Jun 6, 2013 01:29
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some texas redneck posted:Swapped out my interior lighting for LEDs. I did that in my '90 RX-7 - two 10-LED panels replacing a pathetic little 9mm bulb - and I love how it now lights up thae whole car. So much so I did the same with a bigger panel in the rear dome light in my Jeep Cherokee (didn't do the front because I'm putting in an overhead console that has four separate dome/reading lights. Going to use either 194 replacements, or smaller panels for those, once I measure them.) Bonus is that the dome light also will no longer burn you accidentally (or on purpose, for that matter.)
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Jun 6, 2013 19:44
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Cut off the bottom of the rear suspension adjustment bolts rubber bushing to even out the ride height front to rear on my car Before:  After:   I think the front will settle a bit more I also evened out the exhaust tips a bit better and tightened down all the bolts again. Still not perfectly straight though, just need to tweak the right pair which i'll do tomorrow.  With the car looking as it does and sounding like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyUTKL5e3R0 I am so happy with this car. Next things up will probably be painting the calipers red, an MGW shifter, and Pfadt "Johnny O" sway bars.
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Jun 6, 2013 20:30
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