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Don't write any product reviews under your own callsign or name though, if you want to stay as a TenTec customer.  I'd like to order your new product kind sirs. OK Oh sorry, we found that you wrote a product review online with a lower than top score on one of our other products, so we canceled your order. What?
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May 21, 2013 23:16
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Jonny 290 posted:The Chinese HF rigs are coming, and coming fast. Speaking of... [X1M QRP Tranceiver](http://www.wouxun.us/item.php?item_id=302&category_id=65) There's a 20W version in the works but machine translated chinese forums is pretty much gibberish.
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May 21, 2013 23:23
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Vir posted:Don't write any product reviews under your own callsign or name though, if you want to stay as a TenTec customer. gently caress them, I was actually thinking about a big upgrade soon but gently caress that noise.
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May 21, 2013 23:28
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I went to a local ham club, and spoke to a dude, so I will be doing a foundation licence thingy in July. I'm pretty excited by that. Since I live in a valley I assume an HF radio will be of most use to me? I'm in the UK and was wondering where I can get some wire suitable for a Random Wire Antenna, I forgot to ask at the club. They said it should be multi strand so it won't snap as it moves, and 12 gauge?
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May 21, 2013 23:42
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Vir posted:Don't write any product reviews under your own callsign or name though, if you want to stay as a TenTec customer. Wow, Good things to know. Some of those guys sounds almost like bitcoiners in how they defend the company. http://www.eham.net/ehamforum/smf/index.php?ehamsid=qp1ckdj65hatk4q3bg7iufmvg4&topic=6030.0
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May 21, 2013 23:45
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blugu64 posted:Wow, Good things to know. Some of those guys sounds almost like bitcoiners in how they defend the company. The replies on that forum are absolutely priceless. Yeah, a business can probably refuse to sell for that reason, sure, but it screams "scummy" to me, rather than "integrity". What would these guys do if Liberty Medical decided to stop sending them insulin, because one day they complained about a late delivery?
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May 21, 2013 23:54
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Pham Nuwen posted:The replies on that forum are absolutely priceless. Yeah, a business can probably refuse to sell for that reason, sure, but it screams "scummy" to me, rather than "integrity". What would these guys do if Liberty Medical decided to stop sending them insulin, because one day they complained about a late delivery? I'm starting to understand why I see so many tripointed hats at hamfests.
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May 22, 2013 01:19
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Not exactly a HAM thing but looking for antenna suggestions for my scanner/weather radio. Unfortunately the antenna I have is terrible at picking up either Boston or Worcester weather radio (I live roughly halfway between the two) but it does pick up the local police/fire (460MHz band) and state police (800MHz band, trunked) like a charm (mainly because I am <2mi from local police and fire HQs and <1mi from a SP repeater). I'm looking for a decent antenna that can pick up all 3 (150MHz weather radio, 460MHz police band and 800MHz police band), only real issue is I live on the first floor of an apartment building and can't have anything sticking out of the 10'Lx8'Hx4'W box that is my "balcony", and I must be able to secure it without it being attached to the railing or walls (5 gallon bucket filled with concrete is best)
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May 22, 2013 15:01
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Do you have vinyl siding you could tuck some wire into the seams of? Rain gutters you can discretely sink a sheet metal screw into? If your railings are wooden, can you staple some wire underneath them? Receive-only antennas are easy to hide and you don't have to worry as much about tuning them or about safety. Get some thin magnet wire and hide it somewhere outside.
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May 22, 2013 15:14
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Crankit posted:I'm in the UK and was wondering where I can get some wire suitable for a Random Wire Antenna, I forgot to ask at the club. They said it should be multi strand so it won't snap as it moves, and 12 gauge? The best wire for wire transmitting antennas is probably multistrand copperweld (copper coated steel wire) since it tends to not stretch as much as copper, and is cheaper. Copper is about 50 times more expensive than steel, so some hams with big antenna farms actually have a legitimate concern about copper thieves. Also RF current tends to flow on the skin of a conductor, so the higher resistance of the steel core isn't as much of a factor as it would be for low frequency current. As for the gauge it depends on power handling capability mainly, and a little bit for bandwidth. But just for a temporary installation, you could just throw up some used electrical wire, insulated or uninsulated, or whatever. My wire antenna is made of 16 AWG untinned stranded copper wire, fed with solid core 450 ohm "window line" connected to a tuner. I run QRP though, so I could probably get away with thinner wire if wanted to be more "stealth". The ladder line will probably not last as long as it would if it was stranded, but solid core was what the local store had, so that's what I have. Thanks to the tuner, I haven't had to re-trim the antenna as the copper stretches, but that would probably be a concern for those using resonant antennas. Rather than an amplifier or a 100 watt radio, my next big ham purchases are likely to be an HT and an MFJ antenna analyzer. Sure both my radio and tuner have SWR readouts, but those readouts won't show me the difference between a truly resonant antenna and a dummy load, or an antenna where the stray reactance fails to be picked up by the simple SWR bridge. (I'm not quite sure on that last point.) Vir fucked around with this message at 01:40 on May 23, 2013 |
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May 23, 2013 00:52
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I don't think a reactive load would cause a problem with SWR readings, but the antenna analyzer would let you measure at the antenna instead of at the transmitter where return power will have been attenuated and you wouldn't have to fire up the transmitter to test. I think the antenna analyzer would tell you if the load is reactive or capacitive? That would help in designing matching networks as well.
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May 23, 2013 09:53
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Vir posted:Yeah solid core copper blowing around in the wind might get fatigue failure, like bending a spoon back and forth will eventually break it, and multi stranded wire will hold up better to flexing. The same goes for coax - the cheap braided shield and stranded center coax can be used where it will flex and move, while lower loss and more expensive Heliax hardline doesn't take flexing well. Thus the niche for braid-and-foil low loss flexible LMR coax from Times Microwave. Thanks for all this, one thing I was wondering is when it comes to buying ham stuff are there specific stores for that, or is it stuff you can get at a hardware store? When I get a foundation licence I'll be allowed 10W transmit power, is that enough to contact a satellite/space station/moonbounce? If it's not would 50W be enough for those?
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May 25, 2013 00:16
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Crankit posted:Thanks for all this, one thing I was wondering is when it comes to buying ham stuff are there specific stores for that, or is it stuff you can get at a hardware store?
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May 25, 2013 00:22
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Crankit posted:Thanks for all this, one thing I was wondering is when it comes to buying ham stuff are there specific stores for that, or is it stuff you can get at a hardware store? Crankit posted:When I get a foundation licence I'll be allowed 10W transmit power, is that enough to contact a satellite/space station/moonbounce? If it's not would 50W be enough for those? Even 5 watts on an HT and a long whip should be enough for APRS'ing via the ISS, even better with an Arrow satellite antenna; if nobody else are transmitting then that should also be enough for talking on polar satellites too. It's a lot easier with 50 watts or a big array though, especially on lower passes. A cheap scanner or second radio could help you by letting you listen to the satellite full duplex so you can hear yourself when you transmit. There are inverting SSB/CW satellites too, which have more "room" for simultaneous QSO's but I haven't gotten around to using those. Moonbounce though? One of the clubs I'm a member of has a special license to exceed normal power limits for moonbounce, so that's quite a step up from just working satellites. When somebody puts a repeater on the moon, you can think about HT moonbounce. Or you could go for microwave operation, since it's easier to do lower power moonbounce with microwave than 2m/70cm. Vir fucked around with this message at 01:31 on May 25, 2013 |
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May 25, 2013 01:09
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So apparently the DDS in the upcoming Ten Tec rig is an AD9834 which supports PSK. 
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May 25, 2013 02:03
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I don't love my FT897D. I bought it thinking it'd be great to have an all-band, all-mode radio, but it's just kind of clunky to navigate and use. It's not nearly as portable as I expected, and if I'm going to sit on a repeater, I'd rather it be on a separate radio so I can tune around on HF at the same time. Part of the problem probably comes my sub-optimal operating space and antenna situation. All factors together, I rarely turn the radio on. I'm playing with the idea of selling my 897, autotuner and external meter to trade for a KX3 and a homebrew buddipole-like antenna, making a full station I can quickly setup on the back deck. I'm a little worried that its just gadget-itch, especially the idea of having an IF-out to get a panadapter view on my laptop. I'm also worried about the QRP frustration I often hear about. Also, if I ever decide to try 2m SSB, I'd have to buy the Elecraft 2m module with an unannounced price. Kind of rambling here. Thoughts?
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May 26, 2013 20:03
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Thanks to everyone for answering my questions so far, now I have a bunch more. I've not yet got my licence, but when I have what's the cheapest way to get into HF? Used gear on ebay, kits, homebrew? That question applies individually to the transceiver, ATU, SWR Meter too (and I guess anything I haven't thought of yet). I've seen SDRs that use the soundcard to do ADC and they say the bandwidth you can cover in a band is dependant on your soundcards sample rate, if I have an ADC which can sample at 8MSPS does that mean I can connect that and cover more bandwidth or is there something I'm overlooking? I've already got a receiver kit that I haven't built yet, it's HF but when I make it I have to decide what bands I want it to work on my options are 160m, 80m/40m, 40m/30m/20m, 30m/20m/17m, 15m/12m/10m. I'm in the UK but I don't know which of those see the most use?
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May 30, 2013 05:52
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Find the greyest beard around and befriend him, he will most likely offer you lots of cheap old gear, it's how I've ended up with an Azden PCS-4000 mobile, the FDK Multi-2700 base station and the FT-747GX HF before even getting my license. Also I'd definitely make sure I had the 20 meters band, I think 40 meters is used a fair amount too but someone else will have to comment on that. --- I've now received confirmation that I've passed the license test (all or nothing in Norway), so my callsign will be official in a few days. I am interested in advice on what kind of antenna tuner to get for the FT-747 though, there's the LDG models that seem to be brand agnostic automatic tuners, or should I just get a manual tuner? Will probably be using either a G5RV or a long-wire with a 9:1 balun. longview fucked around with this message at 08:00 on May 30, 2013 |
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May 30, 2013 07:57
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Manual tuner to be sure. They have wider range, are infinitely tunable (versus just having stepped values on autos) and are generally built tougher. You don't need to band-hop at lightning speed just yet, which is auto tuners' main benefit. You can often snag them dirt cheap from people who just excitedly 'upgraded' to auto tuners. Yes, i'm biased.
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May 30, 2013 16:52
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eddiewalker posted:Kind of rambling here. Thoughts? Keep the 897 and just buy another radio. You can never have too many radios... OK so that may not be true, but you get the idea.
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May 30, 2013 17:16
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Jonny 290 posted:Manual tuner to be sure. They have wider range, are infinitely tunable (versus just having stepped values on autos) and are generally built tougher. You don't need to band-hop at lightning speed just yet, which is auto tuners' main benefit. I didn't know auto-tuners had a more limited range, that's good to know, thanks. It looks like the 20 meter band is the most actively used in Europe anyway (or maybe my antenna is just too lovely to hear the lower bands) so except for the QST-LA transmissions on 80 meters I would probably stay on one or two bands yeah. We have a pretty active local group here so I don't think finding a used tuner from a local ham shouldn't be too hard. One had an anecdote about window shopping for a new HT and finding a nice Kenwood that looked familiar, turned out he had one on the shelf behind him collecting dust. Speaking of HTs, I think the Icom T70E dual band 5W IP54 HT looks like a decent FM radio, I refuse to buy anything that can't use a Li-Ion battery (T70 comes with nickel but it supports lithium), any comments? I know it lacks D-Star, but I'm not looking at that price range now (I will in the future though!). My current HT is a Wouxun KG-UV6D and I think the input filters are a little poor (better than the Baofeng though), seems like it picks up noise from mirror frequencies and probably other noise that radios like the FT-270 don't even read a signal for, let alone breaking the squelch.
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May 30, 2013 20:06
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If you are running power the manual tuner is the way to go, but for 100 W or less, I prefer the auto tuner. I've used both a z11 pro II and an SGC-237. I haven't met anything they couldn't tune. When I was using a manual tuner, I was less likely to operate HF as tuning can be a PITA every time you want to switch bands, or even move around in the same band. If I was running a linear, however, I'd use a manual tuner, mostly for cost effectiveness.
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May 30, 2013 20:37
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Vir posted:Don't write any product reviews under your own callsign or name though, if you want to stay as a TenTec customer. I suspect it might have something to do with the "previous RMA's" plural which cost them actual money more than the reviews part. But yeah, not exactly the greatest of behaviors by a company (although not actually shocking in the ham world) edit: just noticed the thread is from 2005. Not sure I'd let something that happened to one person 8 years ago bug me. fordan fucked around with this message at 04:02 on May 31, 2013 |
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May 31, 2013 03:48
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longview posted:Thanks for the advice, yes it's a GDT made by Littelfuse, hence my confusion about what to call it I've just gotten around to mounting these on the FDK and the Azden: Azden 25W: It doesn't trigger at all at 25W with a resonant antenna, when I substituted it with a lovely dummy load giving about 15W return power it activated and clamped the output as designed, no damage to the transmitter. A nice aspect is that when it's engaged the PO meter reads far less than normal, which will let me see that there's something wrong pretty easily. The tube glows a nice orange when it's lit. I put the tube right at the antenna socket and used the other half of the tube to protect the 13.8V in against transients. On the FDK (10W) it didn't light at all, because the APC system shuts down the output if the SWR goes above a certain adjustable level (it actually drops the output to zero, and won't reengage until you re-key the transmitter). So over all I'd say that 90V GDTs are a good way of protecting at least up to 25W transmitters, unless you need to run at a very high SWR it won't be a problem at all, and the devices I used (PMT8 series) are designed to provide fast protection. E: I'm positive now that the tube did not trigger during the Azden test, but it was glowing. Has anyone here tried using a coaxial quarter wave stub arrestor? It's an interesting concept for mono-band antennas and the Wikipedia article claims it's one of the most rugged ways of protecting a RF transmission line... Basically a T-joint with a quarter wave shorted stub that will present a DC short, I'm a little unsure if how effective it will be against lightning since lightning would be like sending an extremely high energy pulse, not a DC signal. longview fucked around with this message at 09:26 on Jun 2, 2013 |
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Jun 1, 2013 17:58
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The stub will pass the part of the lightning pulse that matches your working frequency, but that's why you'd have a gas discharge tube behind the quarter wave stub to deal with the rest of that transient. As for automatic tuners, I agree with AbsentMindedWelder. Below 100 watts, it gets really tedius having to re-tune on every band change, especially if you're going to be using computer control. When I'm DX chasing, I could be switching between two DX stations on two different bands every second and be ready to jump in with my callsign without having to re-tune. If you're worried that the automatic tuner has a lower tuning range, you're probably trying to tune an end-fed or vertical antenna with a tuner made for a balanced antenna system. In that case, a 4:1 unun, 9:1 unun or even 49:1 unun between the tuner and the antenna might be called for; some tuners have an unun or balun built in.
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Jun 2, 2013 09:49
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Thanks for the advice, if I buy new I'll get an automatic tuner, but I'll keep my eye open for a cheap manual. Now, for mounting a mobile VHF in my car, I've got a temporary setup which uses an external mount mobile antenna, there's 5 meters of RG-174 that goes through one of the doors (RG-174's thin enough that it passes without issue). I calculate that I have about 2 dB of loss there. I probably only need around 3 meters of cable at the very most, but to further reduce loss I was thinking I might just do a 0.5m RG-174 run out to the antenna, then run normal RG-58/RG8X inside the car to the radio. What sort of connectors should I be using for the splice from RG-174 to RG-58? I could get BNCs, N-connectors, PL-259/SO-239 or some specialized splice-connector? Obviously the insertion loss in the splice needs to be lower than what I'll lose by keeping the RG-174.
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Jun 5, 2013 09:56
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Out of those? BNCs for sure. PL-259's will be big, heavy and lossy, N's are big, heavy and overkill. And you'll be able to find proper (meaning, no reducers or adapters needed) BNC connectors for both RG-174 size and RG-58 size. Might also consider SMA connectors - they have good loss specs, for mobile power levels they can handle it, and you won't encounter their main weak point, which is a low number of connect/disconnect cycles. By the way if you're going to run RG-58, go ahead and spend a few more dollars for LMR-200 or LMR-240 if you can get it. Since you're doing it right, might as well do it Right. I will make one final note that if you're reusing the 174 run already on the antenna, to try to cut it off before where you had it going through the door or body. Even though it may look fine, you compressed the insulation there a bit, causing an impedance bump, and it'd help a bit to get that out of the line.
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Jun 5, 2013 17:17
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I was considering maybe trying to run RG-214 I'll look around for SMA connectors then, since I'd like to keep the joint small. It's temporary since I'm moving in a month or two and the car won't be going with me, otherwise I'd be punching a hole in the middle of the roof for a SO-239/NMO, so I think some RG-58 will be fine for now (RG-174 is actually working just fine). Unfortunately using a mast mount on the roof rails isn't providing a big enough ground plane for the 1/4 wave whip antenna I have on now though and I'm getting a SWR of 2:1 unless I put my hand on the base of the antenna. I tried mounting one of those in-line ground-plane things with the three rods, but it made no difference. Not sure what else to do, the rail is bare metal and I've put it as close to where it joins the roof as feasible. Running with 2:1 seems to work but it's not great and I can't really move the antenna to where it has a better ground plane anyway. If the height allows it I'll try putting a 1/2 wave antenna on there, I tested one and it was pretty much dead on resonant on the same mount. Slightly related I actually had my first QSOs today on 2m, first on the local repeater then later SSB which was pretty fun (SSB is more radio-like with the noise and my stereo acting as monitors even at 1W with the antenna outside.) It turns out the hot weather has detuned the FDK LO by about 2 kHz so I was way off frequency at first, but it only required two tiny readjustments in about 45 minutes (still, I need to order a TCXO for it). Afterwards I tested the mobile rig out in the field, which worked perfectly even with the poor SWR. E: I "solved" the antenna problem by winding a current balun from the spare coax underneath the antenna mount, brought the SWR at the transmitter down to around 1.2:1, I also ordered SMA connectors for RG-174 and RG-58 + a female-female adapter. longview fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Jun 7, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 22:46
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Antenna coax and various other things are supposed to be grounded, how does this work with stuff like HTs, or vehicle radios where there is no connection to earth?
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Jun 9, 2013 14:55
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Update: I figured out the correct way of getting cables into the car, so I ran some high quality RG-58 directly to the HT under the carpets and such. The price of doing anything to a VW is blood sweat and tears, but I got it done and it looks very nice compared to a pile of loose RG-174.Crankit posted:Antenna coax and various other things are supposed to be grounded, how does this work with stuff like HTs, or vehicle radios where there is no connection to earth? For whip-antennas you need a ground plane, normally on a HT your hand and arm provides the ground plane through holding the chassis/touching the battery terminals on the back, this is why you might notice the HT suddenly perform much better when you pick it up. When you're not holding it the metal chassis inside (even the cheapest HTs have a metal frame inside) provides the ground plane, but it's not as good. On cars the roof normally provides the ground plane, sort of like how a GP antenna works, it's why mobile antennas are supposed to be mounted in the middle of the roof instead of on the rails like I did. Some antennas like 1/2 waves are not supposed to need a ground plane, and my experience seems to confirm that the 1/2 wave is less picky than the 1/4 wave about how much of a ground plane you have. For example my 1/2 wave mobile is a perfect match on the mount that the 1/4 wave gives a 2:1 SWR, too bad it's 10" too tall to fit inside a parking garage. longview fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Jun 10, 2013 |
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Jun 10, 2013 00:11
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I finally manned-up and drilled an NMO hole. For some reason the guy at the radio store was really pushing me into a trunk lip mount, but my trunk wouldn't close right with that on. I popped off the rear passengers' overhead light rather than dropping any headliner and drilled from the inside of the car out with a Harbor Freight stepped bit to 3/8". Easier to center the hole that way too since I had some markings on a roof support to reference to. A Comet B10 was highest gain whip they had that would fit in my garage, but it seems to be outperforming my baby MFJ magmount by a lot. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 23:49
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Ok, so I've just bought a Blonder Tongue AM-60-550 in the hopes of turning it into an Amateur TV station. I know I'll need to get a 70cm amp and a decent antenna (which I will build, maybe) to actually broadcast. Anybody here have much experience with ATV? Any suggestions? Since I live in the Florida panhandle, I was mainly interested in emergency usage. Everybody has one of those $20 B/W El-Cheapo TV's for hurricanes, but hey, nobody will be able to broadcast due to the switchover. Also, I'm probably going to rebroadcast NASATV if I can find a Dish/DirecTV setup for cheap. Even if I can't use it for ATV, hey, PirateTV station! 
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Jun 14, 2013 19:45
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Friend hooked me up with his collection, time to start studying. 
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Jun 18, 2013 13:02
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Update - Cheap-rear end ATV setup! It works quite well for just a set of RatShack rabbit ears. Need to do some tuning and set it to a legal channel, whip up a DVD with some content to play on a loop, and see how far I can broadcast! Setting a channel is simple, it's binary Can't recommend this modulator enough for a beginner station. $40 got me on the air.
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Jun 19, 2013 03:46
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Make sure you follow the ID rules! You should be good by displaying/holding a title card with your callsign every 10, and at the end of transmission. Also keep in mind that you need to be making contacts with other hams; one-way transmissions are broadcasting, not communication, even if your upstairs bedroom TV is the only intended recipient. Or say yolo and just set it up, and try to not cause any interference, and apologize contritely and profusely if/when the white van shows up. Neat setup!
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Jun 19, 2013 17:26
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How appropriate, page 95. Me and my friends got our technician's licenses way back in the late nineties, when a $40/mo cellphone bill wasn't worth it for us. One of our dads was a huge HAM, and bless his heart, he still is. We all moved almost literally to four corners of the United States and now keep in touch over the internet like normal people, and out of three radios I still have one tiny little underpowered HT, an Alinco DJ-S11. It's very dinky, puts out Story for you: I fired up the old HT just this morning and hit 'scan' just for giggles. It's got a small, non-replaceable antenna and no antenna output, so I set it by the windowsill. I was treated to an hour-long conversation between old men talking about how old they were, a few mentions of aches and pains, and one old guy who was seeking help with replacing Windows Vista with Ubuntu. A package of Ubuntu that he'd paid $40 for physical delivery of, and since that package of 10 DVDs didn't have the specific driver his laptop depended on, he was pretty disappointed. He didn't seem to want to allow Ubuntu to update itself automatically. I'd say "don't ever change, HAM community," but I'm not so sure it can change. doctorfrog fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Jun 19, 2013 |
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Jun 19, 2013 21:58
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doctorfrog posted:Story for you:  I guess the young people are playing more on the digital side of things.
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Jun 19, 2013 22:04
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Jonny 290 posted:Make sure you follow the ID rules! You should be good by displaying/holding a title card with your callsign every 10, and at the end of transmission. Oh yeah, I looked up the rules. Wish I could get a LPTV license to be honest, I'd love to be a broadcaster. As of right now I whipped up a loop that consists of a color bar test pattern with a tone, then my callsign, followed by grid square and coordinates, all with an underlying audio track of my callsign bleeping out in Morse, and the freq of the repeater I haunt. With field day coming up I'm hoping I can get the only ATV contacts in the area.
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Jun 19, 2013 23:18
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josiahgould posted:Oh yeah, I looked up the rules. Wish I could get a LPTV license to be honest, I'd love to be a broadcaster. As someone who's had to deal with broadcast radio rules, no, you would not love to be a broadcaster. Edit: About the only benefit to broadcasting is that we at least get to curse on the air. As long as we warn people first. At certain times. Maybe. Or something. 
SoundMonkey fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Jun 19, 2013 |
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Jun 19, 2013 23:23
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I had to put a large washer on the back side of my NMO mount to get everything to line up right, otherwise the center pin sat too high, and the outer threads were too low to get an antenna screwed on without leaving more than an 1/8th inch of exposed NMO mount threads. Is that normal? Maybe I just have particularly thin sheet metal on my roof. Also, is there anything I should do to prevent rust on the bare edges of the hole? I was thinking maybe a bunch of silicone dielectric grease, or is that even necessary if the rubber gasket keeps outside moisture out? eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Jun 20, 2013 |
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Jun 20, 2013 00:02
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