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Yoshi Jjang posted:Yeah, tell me about it. When I was at the Mont Blanc store at the London airport, I felt horribly under-dressed for just being there. I also found a Mont Blanc shop in my town, but I doubt I'd have any reason to visit that place anytime soon. The Montblanc store in Copley Plaza in Boston. I'd stopped by to check on a ballpoint pen repair for a friend (which they actually did in-store) and was asking about some ink. Now, I'd been on the road for a couple of days and granted, looked fairly shabby but there was no reason for the clerk to be snobbish. It was great to see her face when I pulled out my Sterling 146 to test the ink on, funny as hell.
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Jun 10, 2013 23:31
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iostream.h posted:Don't stress over it! I make a point of visiting all of them I can and have never had anything but great service and treatment from them all with one exception: What I meant to say is that I'm not exactly a big spender. 
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Jun 10, 2013 23:38
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Yoshi Jjang posted:What I meant to say is that I'm not exactly a big spender.
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Jun 11, 2013 00:12
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For Pilot 78G/Metropolitans, as well as some Jinhaos and Heros, http://stationeryart.com/ is a fantastic shop that I found recently. They're cheaper than ebay, and shipping is very reasonable (under £2 to the UK.) They have some pricier pens such as Sailor and also sell mechanical pencils and the like.
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Jun 11, 2013 00:16
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zerox147o posted:Has anyone used the Noodler's Ink White Whale to create blends? I'm tempted to buy some and experiment with mixing it with their Red-Black or Antietam to find a nice correspondence color. I'd be interested in the results!
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Jun 11, 2013 21:26
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Great - another SA thread costing me money. I've just bought a TWSBI Diamond of some description, and a replacement nib unit for my Namiki Vanishing Point (I dropped the pen, bending the nib. I bent it straight-ish, but it wasn't the same.) They should be with me soon, and I'll do a couple of little reviews. But until then... (...and I realise that this Q is going to be the most scrub-tier Q ever asked in this thread...) ...am I OK using black Parker Quink with the TWSBI? I can pick up some posh inks in the summer, but the only bottle I've got here in the Gulf, in the desert, where I live, is the Parker. Back in the UK in the summer, I can experiment with different posh inks. Is Quink a bad ink? Or just a value ink, with no real merits? Is what I'm doing like running a nice car on cooking oil?
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Jun 12, 2013 19:06
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I don't have a TWSBI, but I use Quink as my regular go-to ink in my Metropolitan and Safari every day. The Safari is actually refilled daily because I write so much with it.
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Jun 12, 2013 20:15
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Teach posted:Great - another SA thread costing me money. I've just bought a TWSBI Diamond of some description, and a replacement nib unit for my Namiki Vanishing Point (I dropped the pen, bending the nib. I bent it straight-ish, but it wasn't the same.) They should be with me soon, and I'll do a couple of little reviews. But until then... They're not bad inks, and you shouldn't have any problems with them. I personally don't like Quick Black and Blue (the only two I've tried) but that's personal taste. The black is a kinda dark grey and the blue is really boring. The one thing you shouldn't use in a fountain pen is dip pen ink, like India Ink, which has sediment or something that clogs up the feed. Some really old ink also does this, as I found out to my cost. 30 year old Waterman Brown 
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Jun 12, 2013 20:50
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I've also heard to be careful with the (relatively few) inks that still use iron gall. If you leave one in a pen for too long it can lead to problems like corrosion.
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Jun 12, 2013 21:10
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Reivax posted:They're not bad inks, and you shouldn't have any problems with them. I personally don't like Quick Black and Blue (the only two I've tried) but that's personal taste. The black is a kinda dark grey and the blue is really boring. India ink is a pigmented ink, and those pigments falling out of solution is what the "sediment" is, so yeah avoid any inks that say "pigmented" or anything but "dye-based" because they will clog up your pen. India ink in particular you should  never use because instead of water, it uses shellac as a solvent. It will dry up in your pen and you will never be able to get it out. Only use fountain pen inks in fountain pens, folks!
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Jun 12, 2013 22:45
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Teach posted:...am I OK using black Parker Quink with the TWSBI? I can pick up some posh inks in the summer, but the only bottle I've got here in the Gulf, in the desert, where I live, is the Parker. Back in the UK in the summer, I can experiment with different posh inks. Is Quink a bad ink? Or just a value ink, with no real merits? Is what I'm doing like running a nice car on cooking oil? As the previous goons have said, quink looks rather dull. In addition to India ink, you should keep in mind that inks like Noodlers Baystate Blue can stain your pen (it'll still work, though) and there have been a few cases were Baystate Blue has reacted with ink feeds (Lamy Al-Stars/Safaris and some vintage stuff, I think). Most iron gall ink (except some whacky stuff that contains ridiculous amounts of iron gall) will clog your pen like a pigmented ink if it dries out rather than corrode it (once it turns solid and oxidises, it isn't water soluble anymore). Other than that, feel free to put whatever ink you like into your pen. Sometimes, the warranty will say that you should only use ink from the respective pen maker, but that mostly boils down to "if you completely gently caress up your pen with india ink, it's your problem". cobalt impurity posted:India ink in particular you should Hey, shellac is alcohol soluble - dump your pen in Ethanol and see how much other soluble stuff it contains (may or may not be a good idea) 
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Jun 12, 2013 23:30
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I CANNOT EJACULATE WITHOUT SEEING NATIVE AMERICANS BRUTALISED!
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Thanks for the replies, folks. Appreciate it. Will report back next week when my goodies arrive!
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Jun 13, 2013 05:11
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I went to Maido in San Jose and tried out a bunch of fountain pens today in person, something I'd never been able to do. Anyway: Lamy 2000 -  Actually incredibly light. I love the cap system and it's a great writer. A realistic everyday note-taking pen. I honestly might buy this one! Lamy Dialogue 3 -  Felt really flimsy. The nib was cool but for $300 there are infinitely better pens out there, such as: Pilot Custom 823 -  Wonderful pen all around, but I actually don't like piston fillers that aren't demonstrators. Felt solid and lighter than I'd expect, but Pilot Custom 845 -  Was the best pen there, by far. It uses a con-70 converter, which I honestly like better than piston fillers, and the two-tone nib is beautiful. I was testing it on a brown paper bag which was the only paper he had available, but even so the nib was loving smooth. Worth $500? That's Nakaya and Sailor Emperor territory. Tempting, though. I also had the pleasure of trying a Pilot Vanishing Point (clip wasn't too bad but I prefer Japanese cigars), Custom 74 (which I liked better than the sailors!), Sailor 1911, Professional Gear, and Sapporo, as well as a ton of other Japanese pens, all great, but truthfully not worth deviating from my Namiki Falcon and Mike-It-Worked EF TWSBI 540. Also, I legitimately love my Safari. I think the only unique pen that's missing from my entourage is the Lamy 2000. I have the Japanese cigar, the demonstrator piston filler, the indestructible Safari. I'm not a fan of stubs or broad nibs and the pen weight is perfect, as is the size. My pens are Japanese EF (0.2mm), Japanese SF (Falcon), and Western XF (Safari). Would a western fine Lamy be the next plausible option in this lineup? Or should I save for something different?
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Jun 13, 2013 09:01
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I'm not sure if you noticed, since it can be fairly not-obvious when you're just trialing the pen at a store, but the 823 is actually a demonstrator of sorts. Look at the picture you posted. I own one and it's a writer's pen through and through.
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Jun 13, 2013 10:05
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You're spot-on regarding the Lamy 2000 - it's absolutely a writers' pen and I'd heartily recommend it for everyday use.
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Jun 13, 2013 13:54
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If you're spending more than $100 on a pen, absolutely get a Lamy 2000. I've got a few hundred pages of university notes done thanks to that pen, plus a free repair from Lamy after it fell on its nib. A++ would buy again.
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Jun 13, 2013 14:12
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I feel like this has come up in the thread before, but I can't remember the response; what's the protocol for fountain pens on planes? I'll be going on a long plane flight soon and I'm bringing a pen with me. It'll likely be in my carry-on, since I don't trust it not to be knocked around in my suitcase. Should I empty the ink out before I get on, or will it be alright?
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Jun 13, 2013 17:51
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I've always traveled with them empty, but my understanding is you either need to be empty or full. It's in the middle that you get problems. If it's full, there's not much/any air to expand in your ink reservoir, so none of the ink is pushed out. I'd still tuck it in a plastic baggie and open it up/use it for the first time near a sink after landing.
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Jun 13, 2013 17:58
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Kessel posted:I'm not sure if you noticed, since it can be fairly not-obvious when you're just trialing the pen at a store, but the 823 is actually a demonstrator of sorts. Look at the picture you posted. Oops, yeah, you're right! Barely noticed until that pic.  It's an awesome pen, but my TWSBI is almost the same dimension and weight and the nib, albeit steel, is comparable after the grind in smoothness.I feel that the Lamy 2000 or Custom 74/91 are the two pens I still need to complete my arsenal. For the price of the 823 I can get both (one for my girlfriend and one for me!) and have both a vacuum pen Japanese cigar and a unique fiberglass body. Also, the TWSBI nib is interchangeable with the Custom 74's so I can put the EF on it and put the Custom's nib on the TWSBI to mess around with. Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 18:24
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Okay. Airplanes and Fountain pens 101. Fountain pens operate on the principle of exchanging air with fluid volume to prevent the ink from running out of the pen. Let's say you start out at sea level or 14.75 PSI. The air that's in your pen is now charged at that pressure. When a plane ascends, despite being pressurized it will depressurize to nominally ~6-8k feet... to reduce stress on the airframe Now pressure always wants to equalize so the pen will push out as much ink as it takes to equalize the pressure of air. With a small or non-existant volume of air it may only push just a little bit... if there's a significant body of air in the pen/feed you might lose a significant volume of ink... directly into whatever it was contained in. QuiteEasilyDone fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 18:46
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It would also help to keep your pens stored in an empty (and hopefully clean) soda bottle. They were designed to prevent contents from equalizing in pressure, and to keep liquids from spilling out. It also makes it easy to store them upright, so if it does happen the air bubble is already against the feed and has as little ink as possible to push out.
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Jun 13, 2013 20:37
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Thanks all! I'll keep that in mind while I'm travelling 
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Jun 13, 2013 21:22
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I have to admit, I haven't been following this thread lately. But did you guys know Todd Nussbaum from isellpens now sells his own line of pens? There are $45 and $75 ones. I'm not entirely sure what the difference is other than size. Anyway, I got a blue $45 one in the mail and it is absolutely gorgeous. It writes quite well too. I'm wondering if any of you guys have gotten one of them or are planning to. They're called "Nussbaum pens". (No affiliation, I just like it!)
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Jun 13, 2013 21:53
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Mathematics posted:I have to admit, I haven't been following this thread lately.  That's quite a handsome pen! Comes with a converter and is packaged in a leather slip instead of a box, so the container is also a carrying case. Really neat ideas there! The only thing I notice that I don't like is that the cap threads are right there on the grip section, right where I'd put my fingers. That would drive me nuts and I feel like it's the only thing keeping me from loving this pen entirely.
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Jun 13, 2013 22:39
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cobalt impurity posted:That's quite a handsome pen! Comes with a converter and is packaged in a leather slip instead of a box, so the container is also a carrying case. Really neat ideas there! The only thing I notice that I don't like is that the cap threads are right there on the grip section, right where I'd put my fingers. That would drive me nuts and I feel like it's the only thing keeping me from loving this pen entirely. The threads on the grip is the only reason I don't use my Pelikan m205 with its sweet 0.6mm stub & 0.4mm cursive italic nibs from Richer Binder  Thankfully, the nibs fit into my TWSBI and Noodler's creeper.
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Jun 13, 2013 22:56
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cobalt impurity posted:
Yeah, thanks for posting a photo. It's beautiful, especially in the sunlight. I don't have a problem with the threads, but then again, I never do. Whenever people say a pen is too heavy/too small/has an uncomfortable grip/unbalanced/whatever, I never have those problems, even after long periods of use. I guess I'm just less discerning than most fountain pen users.
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Jun 13, 2013 23:11
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Xovaan posted:Oops, yeah, you're right! Barely noticed until that pic. Yeah, don't let me discourage you from getting a 2000! I do own one and used it for years, and was extremely happy with it. The 823 is one of those pens that initially seems crazy plain, but the more you use it the more it grows on you. It has a lot of hidden benefits: - the ink capacity is absolutely massive, second only to an eyedropper but well within the same ballpark. - the twist cap at the end allows the pen to be sealed for travel without fear of a leak (witness: discussion on this very page about traveling on planes.) - it has a Pilot 15 nib which is big, high-quality stuff. Skip the Dialog 3, it feels flimsy. I honestly want to sell mine off but haven't the impetus.
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Jun 14, 2013 01:13
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aidoru posted:Thanks all! I'll keep that in mind while I'm travelling Keeping pens nib-up in flight will also keep them from leaking most of the time, as does using a Pelikan pen (despite not having a seal like the 823, their ink feeds will hold quite a bit of ink before leaking).
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Jun 14, 2013 09:04
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I'm going to dip my toe in these inky waters. I hardly ever write, but more than once managed get complimented on my handwriting(it's not the great, I promise). Anyway, I'm giving my self the modest...est of modest budgets to give this a shot. Here's what I'm considering. the pen the ink Is there a better pen for  or less? Or is my budget so low that any pen I find will be mediocre at best? I admit the draw for me to this pen is the way it looks and the fact that it's called Skywalker. Yeah, no shame here.
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Jun 14, 2013 18:30
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I wouldn't go straight for Chinese pens. Baoer is a great brand in my opinion, but there's still a chance you might need to do some adjusting that you probably won't know how to if it's your first pen. It could put you off fountain pens. For $10 or less, I'd say your best bet is this Sheaffer No Nonsense. If you don't mind pink, that is. The only thing is that it only takes cartridges, so you'd have to get some of those. You can refill them with a syringe with bottled ink as well. Another great choice is a regular Noodler's piston fill pen. They are a great deal for $9 and not as risky as the Ahab or Konrad. But if neither of those appeal to you, well, just go for the Baoer. It'll probably be okay, but if it has problems, don't let that put you off all fountain pens. Mathematics fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Jun 14, 2013 |
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Jun 14, 2013 18:38
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delpheye posted:I'm going to dip my toe in these inky waters. I hardly ever write, but more than once managed get complimented on my handwriting(it's not the great, I promise). Anyway, I'm giving my self the modest...est of modest budgets to give this a shot. Here's what I'm considering. I ordered a Preppy through Goulet like recommended in the OP and I'm really happy with how it writes. It's not as flashy, but compared to your combined pen and ink it's about half the cost. I wasn't expecting much for it being so cheap, but I have no complaints at all and I know some folks in the thread regard it as a decent pen. I'm in the same boat as you minus the compliments. It's actually pretty nice writing with this thing, and I'd like to get another pen and some ink for the hell of it, but I never need to write in my daily life and I've been struggling to come up with an excuse to write aside from, say, foreign language study. I'm not much of a creative writer, and I sure don't want to go around copying passages from novels and books of poetry. On that note, if anyone had to scheme up some project for themselves, I'd be interested to hear what you did.
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Jun 14, 2013 18:43
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Preppies are some of my favorite pens and I'd highly recommend them even if you have a million other pens. I got mine with my Heart of Darkness, actually! As for projects, I use my Rhodia pads and pens every day for outlining hobbies and activities. I also have a journal I keep where I write down every good thing that happened that day along with every interesting thought I have. You begin to realize the things you say aren't as dumb as you think they are when revisited and you can build a great arsenal of future ideas and positive thoughts this way. I realized a long time ago that negative events are far too easily remembered and often overshadow many of the great things that happen in life. A journal definitely helps you realize that your life has some awesome moments and is a pretty good ego boost.  I also use my Falcon with Heart of Darkness for lineart. Fountain pens are great for drawing because you don't press down on the paper and it makes your inked drawings look way, way better when they're done.
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Jun 14, 2013 19:04
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Mathematics posted:I wouldn't go straight for Chinese pens. Is there a resource out there for learning about said adjustments? I have no problem tinkering with a thing. In fact, I like it. I build everything I can from parts, so having to learn about the parts of the pen and how they interact with each other is ok with me. The preppy looks like a solid choice, but I'm after something a little more refined, if that's really the right word. I'm sort of trying to adopt a buy it for life lifestyle but that has it's own pitfalls so I figure 8 bux for a pen is good enough to figure out the whole fountain pen thing. Trigger pulled! delpheye fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Jun 14, 2013 |
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Jun 14, 2013 20:11
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delpheye posted:Is there a resource out there for learning about said adjustments? I have no problem tinkering with a thing. In fact, I like it. I build everything I can from parts, so having to learn about the parts of the pen and how they interact with each other is ok with me. If you like the idea of taking everything apart and it's in your budget, a TWSBI Vac 700 or Diamond 580 would also be great choices.
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Jun 14, 2013 20:36
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delpheye posted:Is there a resource out there for learning about said adjustments? I have no problem tinkering with a thing. In fact, I like it. I build everything I can from parts, so having to learn about the parts of the pen and how they interact with each other is ok with me. This guy has a ton of good information on fountain pens and maintenance, though some of it is tucked inside the reviews. Also Brian Goulet of gouletpens.com has a lot of good stuff (though it's more things like cleaning and using pens rather than any type of nib tweaking). Edit: Also, this is a great article on common things that can give you trouble with a nib: http://edisonpen.com/page.cfm/IPGnibs2
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Jun 14, 2013 20:38
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delpheye posted:Is there a resource out there for learning about said adjustments? I have no problem tinkering with a thing. In fact, I like it. I build everything I can from parts, so having to learn about the parts of the pen and how they interact with each other is ok with me. Well it's too late now, but I was going to suggest just going for a Pilot Metro, although they've seemingly gone up in price. However the Pilot 78G hasn't. So maybe keep those in mind as you work your way up, but really the TWSBIs are great, just a lot more costly, granted not as much as say a Sailor, Pelikan M800, or Mont Blanc.
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Jun 14, 2013 21:08
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I like Italic writing, but was frustrated by my inability to find an iridium-tipped italic nib for less than $500. For those not in the know, standard (round) fountain pen nibs are tipped with a little ball of a very hard metal alloy, typically from the platinum group of metals—osmium, rhodium, iridium, and such. This kind of nib is generically called an "iridium-tipped" nib. The extreme hardness of the tip makes the nib very long-lasting. Italic nibs touch the paper with a contact surface shaped like a line, rather than a point, and so a side-to-side stroke leaves a thinner line than an up-or-down stroke. This results in a pleasing line variation, but also makes the pen a little more difficult to handle than a round tip. Specifically, the pen can be a little harder to start, you have to hold the nib exactly level with the paper, and side-strokes are likelier to be scratchy. I consider this a fair trade. (Italic nibs with very smooth sides—"cursive italic" nibs—obviate some of these issues at the expense of line variation.) Unfortunately, many italic nibs (and all nibs marketed as "calligraphy" nibs) don't have any hard tipping material; they've just a bare stainless steel edge, which wears down quickly and requires periodic re-sharpening. You've got to go up to the $500+ range to get a pen with an iridium-tipped italic nib, and it'll usually be a 14k gold number which you'd never want to take out of the house. The other option is to get a cheap reground pen off of eBay, or pay someone to grind it for you, but where's the fun in that? So, after some practice grinding the nibs from cheap Chinese eBay pens using this excellent guide, I ordered two Bülow #6 nibs from xfountainpens and ground one of them myself. I'm using it in my trusty Noodler's Konrad, but it also fits my gargantuan Jinhao 159 (and any other pen which takes a #6 nib).  Here are the results:  After on the left, before on the right; sorry for the shakiness on the right, I used my spare nib without putting it in a pen.)  ...and here's the process. If you want to try this yourself, you should definitely read the guide I linked above.  I used a knife-grinding stone purchased from my local Asian supermarket, two micro-mesh abrasive sticks with 8000 (super fine) and 12000 (super super fine) grit, a napkin, a 30x loupe, a pad of paper for scribbling, and a little cup of water (not pictured). I did the whole process with the pen inked up, because gently caress it. The first step is to flatten the bottom of the iridium ball. Here's a comparison pic:  On the bottom is the untouched nib, on the top is the ground nib. To flatten the bottom, place the nib tip on the grinding stone, and move swiftly side-to-side with slight downward pressure. Hold the pen perfectly level at all times. Check often with the loupe; you want the front edge of the flat part to reach almost all the way to the front face of the nib, and you want to make sure you're not putting too much pressure on one side or grinding it crooked.  Next, you want to remove a fair bit of material from the top of the tip, even though that part never touches the paper. You'll want to do this to make sure the capillary action leads the ink downward, and to keep there from being too much ink in the nib when you lift the pen from the paper (this will leave little droplets of ink at the end of all your strokes). Comparison:  Left before, right after. This is a two-step process: first, remove most of the material in much the same way as the bottom, but hold the pen at about a 10° angle from the horizontal. Always check often with the loupe.  Next, bring the tip almost to a sharp point by pulling the tip down the grindstone, starting at 10° and ending up at about 45° at the end of the stroke. Keep your finger under the pen to make sure you don't grind too shallow.  Finally, form the writing edge by grinding off the front of the tip. Hold the pen vertically, and make short downstrokes with very light pressure. The flat front surface will meet the flat bottom surface at a 90° angle, and make a sharp edge. This process takes a while; the pen with skip and skitter, and ink will splatter everywhere if you're a chump like me and keep the pen inked up.   Finally, you're done with the primary grinding! Your tip should look something like this in profile:  Not a great image, it's hard to focus on the silhouette of the tip. Now start doodling on the paper, testing the side-strokes and downstrokes. If the line variation isn't enough for you, take a little off the bottom. If the pen is hard to start or leaves ink dollops, take a little off the top. Be very conservative with your grinding; scribble something after every two or three strokes on the grindstone. Finally, smooth the pen by making downstrokes on the 8000 grit. For God's sake, be careful! Apply absolutely zero pressure, use only the weight of the pen itself. If you smooth too much or too hard, you'll get baby-bottom syndrome on your nib, which makes the pen very hard to start. The only solution is to grind away more at the bottom and the front, and then start smoothing all over again.  Make a few light side-strokes to smooth the edges. Once the pen isn't too scratchy, slide it over the 1200 once or twice to polish it up (again, just the weight of the pen when you're polishing the writing edge. If you want to polish up the top of the tip for appearances' sake, go nuts.) I had to work out the fine details managing the capillary flow by trial-and-error, mostly, but I'll share an important one here. Check this out:  This is the Bülow nib as it came. See how the slit between the tines narrows as it comes to the tip? You want that. That narrowing helps drive the ink toward the tip, which is especially important for an italic nib since it's more difficult to get good tip-paper contact. Don't press too hard when grinding the bottom, or you'll splay the tines apart, and they're pretty difficult to bend back together. Another thing that helps is to heat-set the feed, if it's ebonite like the Noodler's feeds. Easiest thing in the world, just hold the feed and nib in boiling water for about 45 seconds. The ebonite will go soft, and the tension in the steel nib will form the feed to the nib's shape. Pinch the feed to the nib gently with your fingers, if you like. Let it cool down for a minute or two, and the feed'll harden right back up and be ready to write.  This can also un-splay the tines, if such splaying the caused by the feed pressing up on the nib. And that's all there is to it! Strangelet Wave fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Jun 15, 2013 |
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Jun 14, 2013 21:26
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Wow, great info. I just got a cheap italic that I like, I could see myself trying something like this pretty soon!
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Jun 15, 2013 18:24
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Pulled the trigger on a Lamy2000, oh boy 
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Jun 15, 2013 19:27
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Cool modification. I may have to try something like that on my bent Ahab, see I can't make it a little more useful, since I certainly am not using it as is. Also, while I'm thinking about Konrads, I haven't had the major leaking problem come back since I used the silicone grease on the threads, so I guess that helped. I'm still in the realm of inexpensive pens, and it's one of my favorites. Things like leaving it in my bag upside-down and air travel make it spit quite a bit more than my Lamy Safari, but the Lamy seem to be really be more of a work horse that nothing can bother, even if it's not very exciting.
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Jun 15, 2013 23:53
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