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The program asks you to take gravity readings a couple of times (both pre-boil and post-boil). The "conversion efficiency" is taken right after you've drained all the sparge water but before you've started the boil. I was under the impression that it was just a measure of the amount of sugar you got into the pot/total amount of sugar in all the grains you mashed, which would imply it could never be higher than 100%. Also, while I'm thinking about it, I had to add about a half gallon of water to that beer to hit my OG. How much will that dilute my IBU/hops level? It is a cream ale so bitterness/hops aren't that important, but did I turn it into Bud Light? Should I throw in some dry hops or something to compensate, or just not worry about it?
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Jun 11, 2013 17:28
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immortalyawn fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Mar 31, 2019 |
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Jun 11, 2013 17:48
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bewbies posted:I was under the impression that it was just a measure of the amount of sugar you got into the pot/total amount of sugar in all the grains you mashed, which would imply it could never be higher than 100%. That's what it sounds like it should be to me, too, but the evidence seems to indicate otherwise. If that's what it was, you'd never even see anything close to 100% in a homebrew setting, as the theoretical PPG values you see for grain are based on a lab mash which is designed to get EVERYTHING out, even at the expense of good flavor, etc.
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Jun 11, 2013 17:58
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Jo3sh posted:That's what it sounds like it should be to me, too, but the evidence seems to indicate otherwise. If that's what it was, you'd never even see anything close to 100% in a homebrew setting, as the theoretical PPG values you see for grain are based on a lab mash which is designed to get EVERYTHING out, even at the expense of good flavor, etc. Yeah, they need to do some wild stuff to get the sugar off the grain and into solution. Since it is taken at the time you take mash efficiency, if 90 - 100% is a normal reading for conversion efficiency then it must be assuming percent achieved of mash efficiency assumed. Which means >100% is possible and potentially probable as I've known plenty of people to get wicked awesome mash efficiencies. E. Which just seems like a really backwards measure but then I usually don't even take it all the way to efficiency and just calculate PPG unless I get bored during a boil. zedprime fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Jun 11, 2013 |
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Jun 11, 2013 18:10
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http://www.brewhardware.com/refractometer Does anyone have this refractometer? $38 is the cheapest I've found for one and as far as I can tell, its the same one they have everywhere. Seriously, gently caress taking mid-boil/mash gravity readings with a hydrometer.
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Jun 11, 2013 18:12
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Angry Grimace posted:http://www.brewhardware.com/refractometer Why spend $38? http://www.amazon.com/Beer-Wort-Wine-Refractometer-Scale/dp/B006GG0TDK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1370970951&sr=8-3&keywords=refractometerb
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Jun 11, 2013 18:16
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crazyfish posted:Why spend $38? I never even thought to look on Amazon.
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Jun 11, 2013 18:20
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drat that's a good deal. Tempted to buy one just for the dual scale even though I already have a Brix-only refractometer. Although it seems to have a lot of negative reviews claiming poor accuracy and even that some people have received a Brix-only model not the dual-scale that's advertised.
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Jun 11, 2013 18:24
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I JUST bought it,and it came the other day. I can confirm it comes in a hard case,has dual scale, and read my tao water @ 1.000 I got the one via prime
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Jun 11, 2013 18:45
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Anyone have experience with chai? Seeing the stiff people rave about in SA mart has me thinking of brewing up a milk stout ,and adding it in Friends brew with it,but I find their efforts lacking body and taste, being mostly smell. A milk stout with added lactose seems the perfect base
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Jun 11, 2013 19:08
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Which strand of yeast is the crazy one that likes those super high 90F temperatures? 3711 is the insane one, 3724 pretty much has to be fermented 80f+
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Jun 11, 2013 20:57
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Jacobey000 posted:3711 is the insane one, 3724 pretty much has to be fermented 80f+ What's the difference in terms of flavor profile? Also there was a post about some kind of beverage pouch on reddit that I thought was pretty interesting, although at $10 per it's a bit expensive: http://beerpouch.com/
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Jun 11, 2013 22:26
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That is a highly-professional footer at the bottom of that page.
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Jun 11, 2013 22:29
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Just found this thread after wondering on a whim if SA had a brewing thread. Question maybe I can get some opinions on. I have a yeast starter going on now for this kit: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/big-honkin-stout-extract-kit.html Should I do a double starter or will the one be enough? (1/2 cup DME in 1 pint water for about 24 hours on a stir plate).
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Jun 11, 2013 22:59
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strikehold posted:Just found this thread after wondering on a whim if SA had a brewing thread. A single packet of US-05 is pretty close to the needed cell count anyway, unless you used some other yeast. But at 1.068, you're fine with the single starter regardless, especially when using a stir plate.
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Jun 11, 2013 23:03
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I used the smack pack liquid yeast. 100bill count. E: While I'm asking, I want to add chocolate to this stout. I'm thinking about 6oz of dark choc powder at flame out + 4oz of roasted cocao nibs (I have raw organic but those aren't good for this I've heard) and then 2oz or to taste for organic choc extract right into the keg. Just experimenting. Good idea/awful idea? Bloodborne fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Jun 11, 2013 |
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Jun 11, 2013 23:05
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Yeah I wouldn't bother doing a second one. In the future you can use a tool like Mr Malty's Calculator to get a more precise size for your yeast starter. It factors in your OG, whether it's a lager or ale, and the age of the yeast* The rule of thumb is a 10:1 liquid to DME ratio. For example, if the site calls for a 1000mL starter, you would start with 100 grams of DME and then add enough water to reach 1000mL total volume. * Mr Malty is really pessimistic about how well yeast was handled. If it's more than like 3 weeks old he starts calling for really big starters, which is probably a little overboard unless your shop sucks and stores yeast unrefrigerated. Docjowles fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jun 11, 2013 |
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Jun 11, 2013 23:08
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Anyone got a wyeast/white labs conversion table they trust?
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Jun 11, 2013 23:18
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Bad Munki posted:Anyone got a wyeast/white labs conversion table they trust? The one on Mr. Malty is the only one I'm aware of that exists. http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm Kristen England put the list together and he claimed to be reasonably certain of the conversion/origin of each yeast. (e.g. that WY XXXX = WL YYYY).
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Jun 11, 2013 23:20
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There's also our own rage-saq's YeastBot database, which owns.
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Jun 11, 2013 23:24
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Angry Grimace posted:The one on Mr. Malty is the only one I'm aware of that exists. http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm Right on, thanks! Docjowles posted:There's also our own rage-saq's YeastBot database, which owns. 
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Jun 11, 2013 23:25
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Angry Grimace posted:The one on Mr. Malty is the only one I'm aware of that exists. http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm I use that one, too, and I've found it to be pretty good. I have one recipe that absolutely relies on WY Thames Valley, but just recently I could only get WL Burton Ale - if it's not the same yeast, it's pretending really, really well.
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Jun 12, 2013 01:24
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Jo3sh posted:if it's not the same yeast, it's pretending really, really well. You know, I'm sure they do DNA comparisons against each other's strains regularly for IP reasons, but I'd be curious how often incidental similarities occur.
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Jun 12, 2013 01:29
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fullroundaction posted:I'd love a proven hoppy wheat beer recipe. I've got a pound of cascade burning a hole in my freezer because ITS USELESS TO RESIST THE HOPSHACK'S DEALS. Only a month and I had to go back 26 pages to dredge this up, but my hoppy wheat has finally reached good carbonation and is now drinking pretty well: http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/american-iwa I think I would choose a cleaner yeast, as this one has a clove thing going on that I'm not sure I am 100% sold on. It's pretty decent though.
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Jun 12, 2013 01:37
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Jo3sh posted:Only a month and I had to go back 26 pages to dredge this up, but my hoppy wheat has finally reached good carbonation and is now drinking pretty well: That's some serious hopage. I've Got a pound of centennial in the freezer and more white wheat than you can shake a stick at so ... That's going to happen this weekend (but with 2-row) Went to a local beer event where I shook hands and kissed babies and got lovely. Love talking about homebrewing and picking the pros brains.
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Jun 12, 2013 01:55
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Jo3sh posted:Only a month and I had to go back 26 pages to dredge this up, but my hoppy wheat has finally reached good carbonation and is now drinking pretty well: That's pretty much the same route I took with my last hoppy wheat as well: Half wheat and half 2-row, low/med mash temp, lots of American hops. I did mine a bit lower gravity and IBU (1.050OG, 35IBU), but it still ended up really refreshing and citrusy. I'd stick with a more neutral yeast like US-05/WLP001 myself, since the clove/banana flavors of a weizen yeast tend to interfere or clash with hop flavors.
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Jun 12, 2013 01:59
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Lil' Sumpin Sumpin is the gold standard for this sort of ale, and they use all the "C" hops in addition to a 50% wheat bill. And it is delicious so do it!
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Jun 12, 2013 04:06
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immortalyawn fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Mar 31, 2019 |
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Jun 12, 2013 09:06
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If anyone's interested, I'm selling two tickets to this year's NHC in Philadelphia at SA Mart http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3554328. Furloughed so can't justify a four day boondoggle right now. Hopefully next year!
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Jun 12, 2013 10:26
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immortalyawn posted:So, something I mentioned in an earlier post, I would like a bit more info on. Topping up with cold water is totally acceptable and what a lot of people do when they can't do full boils. My first 10 batches were done that way and they all turned out fine. But you've got the oxygen backwards. You don't want to introduce any AFTER fermentation has started. Before you pitch the yeast you want to get as much in there as possible, so splash and shake the hell out of everything!
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Jun 12, 2013 12:41
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1. Many people who can't do full boils do this, totally fine! 2. Oxygen is the enemy after you've begun fermentation. You should oxygenate your wort before you pitch your yeast to provide a good environment for them to get to work. You can actually buy little O2 tanks and a system to inject it right into your wort before pitching: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/oxygenation-kit.html
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Jun 12, 2013 13:48
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what was the consensus from a few pages back? Add o2 like a champ, or a small sliver of olive oil on a toothpick ?
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Jun 12, 2013 14:18
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Roundboy posted:what was the consensus from a few pages back? Add o2 like a champ, or a small sliver of olive oil on a toothpick ? Either way will get you about the same results at the homebrew scale.
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Jun 12, 2013 14:21
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Olive oil on a toothpick? I've never heard of that. I thought fat was a bad thing.
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Jun 12, 2013 14:25
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strikehold posted:Olive oil on a toothpick? I've never heard of that. I thought fat was a bad thing. The way it works, you're supposed to add such an incredibly small amount that it shouldn't effect head retention or flavor at all. When they tested it at New Belgium they added 300 mL to like 1,200 gallons of yeast before pitching.
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Jun 12, 2013 14:35
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strikehold posted:Olive oil on a toothpick? I've never heard of that. I thought fat was a bad thing. Microliters of olive oil provide enough fatty acids in 5 gallons to help yeast bypass steps of oxygen respiration metabolism. I don't think anyone actually does it on a regular basis because its hard to control how much oil you get on your toothpick and its more of a curiosity.
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Jun 12, 2013 14:36
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immortalyawn posted:So, something I mentioned in an earlier post, I would like a bit more info on. To add to what's already been said, just remember how much heat you have to get rid of - 4 gallons of wort just off boil plus 2.5 gallons of ice water is still going to be around 150F or 65C which is still too hot for plastic or glass fermenters. With a partial boil (search using that terminology if you want to do more reading) you want to get the wort in the kettle cooler first before you add the chilled water. Most people do it by putting the kettle in a cold water or ice bath and stirring with a sanitized spoon. When I do this with 2.5 gallons of wort in a 3 gallon kettle I can get to pitching temp in 15 minutes easy.
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Jun 12, 2013 16:11
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immortalyawn posted:
This is my life. Boston Apartment barely has room for a few one gallon carboys and 1 five gallon bucket. and pantry space for a big pot is way out of the question. My last brew, I did this past Sunday was a partial boil done in two spaghetti pots. We'll see how it comes out.
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Jun 12, 2013 16:34
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WarrenH posted:If anyone's interested, I'm selling two tickets to this year's NHC in Philadelphia at SA Mart http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3554328. Furloughed so can't justify a four day boondoggle right now. Hopefully next year! Dibbs! Hit me up when you get a chance.
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Jun 12, 2013 17:06
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3oz of medium toast american oak cubes, 3 whole vanilla beans, and a wyeast cider yeast for future use bought. All I need to do is pick up a burbon on the way home and soak everything until the weekend, and lots of tasting to hope i dont overdo it
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Jun 12, 2013 19:28
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