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Comrade Flynn posted:Took a quick video on the way to work this morning. Moderate acceleration in full auto mode. Not sure why it was only shifting at 4500, will try to take a better one to redline tonight but the camera kept smacking me in the face in race mode. Sounds great. If that's 15th you are about a half block from one of my besties. Small world.
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Jun 12, 2013 19:33
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| # ? May 26, 2024 12:19 |
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Comrade Flynn posted:Took a quick video on the way to work this morning. Moderate acceleration in full auto mode. Not sure why it was only shifting at 4500, will try to take a better one to redline tonight but the camera kept smacking me in the face in race mode. That is an ungodly wicked sound.
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Jun 12, 2013 19:54
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EVERYWHERE 
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I got into a fight with mine... 200K km service, its all fluids, valve clearances, belts, wheel bearings and I decided to throw a set of urethane bushings into the steering rack to fix up the slop caused by 200K km old rubber bushings. loving steering rack. Took 3.5hrs to get the drat thing to the stage where I could bash/sawzall the bushings out.  gently caress your bushings Mr Toyota.  Then I had to do the valve clearances. Toyotas got an interesting setup with the 1HD-FTE motor- its quad valve, SOHC, so each pair of valves is actuated by a rocker and a bridge.  Adjustment procedure is: 1) Place a shifter on the end of the bridge. 2) undo the locknut on the bridge without putting torque on the bridge by using the shifter to support it so you dont bend its support shaft and gently caress the entire valvetrain. 3)Back off the bridge screw until loose. 4) Undo rocker adjuster and back off. 5) Place feeler gauge in, start to tighten the screw until the gauge can move with a slight drag, tighten locknut. 6) tighten bridge adjuster until it just starts to pinch feeler gauge. 7) tighten bridge nut without torquing bridge 8) repeat for other 11 valve sets... Problem is, to get to the valves, you have to remove the intercooler crossover pipe, which has an EGR pipe on it. And of course, out of the two nuts, ONE will strip. Even with a loving 6 point socket.  Hour of bashing away with a cold chisel and pounding a 13mm socket onto a 14mm nut got it off eventually. Takes about an hr and a half to do the valves, and its a prick of a job up at the firewall end.  Tomorrow is wheel bearings, Belts, All drivetrain fluids and then when someone else gets home, I need to feed 3L of brake fluid into the brake and clutch systems. Brake master cylinder holds a litre and a bit on its own!
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Jun 13, 2013 11:37
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I melted a bit of the headlining, scorched some of the weatherstripping and pulled a long swath of paint off with masking tape. The poor Niva. I don't think I'm well enough to work on it. But now I have an excuse to do the metal repairs to the hatch. I've already totally hosed the paint so I might as well do some welding.
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Jun 13, 2013 13:49
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Replaced the idle air control valve on the Miata to resolve the high idle when warm issue. It has been getting worse lately, idling as high as 2500rpm when really hot. Also cleaned the throttle body while I had it off. Solved the idle problem, but the throttle seems to be sticking just before closing now, as it idles normally until I give it any gas then it settles back around 1300rpm until I tug on the back of the gas pedal and it drops to normal. Probably got some gunk stuck in there when cleaning it, I'll give it another go. Also replaced the plugs since I had new ones, though the old ones all looked great. 
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Jun 13, 2013 16:45
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DropShadow posted:What I did this weekend: drat dude, I don't typically like newer Audi, but this is really gorgeous.
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Jun 14, 2013 01:26
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Today I used the Niva to shift the caravan, and bypassed the tachometric relay on the VW so it'd run so I could achieve all of this. Huge pain in the rear end. The whole lot. The worst part wasn't the caravan refusing to let go of the towball, the lovely jockey wheels or doing wiring on the VW. Oh no. The worst thing was the sloshing I could hear coming from somewehere in the midriff of the VW. I have this horrible feeling that rain got in and somehow got between the floor and the plastic layer. The Niva was a bit lovely at me too. That's good. It got up to temperature and got a good workout. The thermo fans kicked in at the right temperature too. From the general chat thread. 
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Jun 14, 2013 09:16
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An addendum for what I did today. Did the usual drive around the yard with my son but now things have been shifted a bit there's a straight run along side the house and around the front. The gears. Jeeeezus. High range gearing is way up there. It's actually a little finicky to get started off in first because of it. Got it in to second before going around to the front of the house and was actually surprised I couldn't kick the back out. AWD or whatever I guess. It's done nearly 5km in the yard so far, and it can't even do a lap because of the block size and layout.
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Jun 15, 2013 00:25
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Got the first part of my order from Rockauto today. Time for some creature comforts: New blower switch & harness, brake pedal cover, and actuator for the heater mode door. Blower switch went in pretty easy, although my truck seems to disagree with extended idling with the a/c on in Florida summer heat, so I wound up sweating my way through most of it. The actuator is going to be an annoyance. The old one snapped off when I went to remove the vacuum lines from it. Looking in I can see the legs are threaded & held into the airbox with nuts, whereas the legs on the new one are smooth, so I'll have to find an alternate method to hold it in place. Also, it looks like I'm gonna have to pull the airbox apart in order to hook the door flap up to the actuator.  It's the heater core all over again. At least I know the old one is in fact bad, it moves with air through one fitting, but the other one just hisses and leaks.Also not pictured, I got a new door seal & outer scraper seal. The old door seal, the actual seal part had separated from the part that slides onto the pinch weld, and the P.O. had just kinda half-assedly glued it back on. The top part of the crimp was actually held in place by some black rubbery goop, reminds me of the poo poo they use to hold the vapor seal plastic on inside the doors. Eventually managed to get the new seal on and the various interior trim bits screw back down over it, looks like a whole new truck (no it doesn't). The scraper was dead easy, just pop the old one up & off with a flathead, pry the mirror out a hair to slide the tip of the new one under it, and pop it down into place over the sheet metal. Tomorrow I should get my control arm & motor mounts, will have to set aside some time to do those.
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Jun 15, 2013 02:41
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Pulled off the front bumper on my Fit and ziptied some gutter guard on the back of the intake area to help prevent any further damage to the A/C condenser. It's already pretty mangled but it's not leaking and the A/C works fine so if a few bucks in gutter guard and an hour of my time keeps it working I'll be happy.
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Jun 15, 2013 02:52
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Pulled the driveshaft out of my 1998 V70XC today. This was replaced at the dealer ~5 years ago and it's already toast. The front CV joint is totally bound up, and it was a pain in the rear end to remove. No wonder people hate these cars.  Fortunately, there's a shop in CO that rebuilds them, but I'm not going to pony up the $400 to get it done until the fall. The car drives just fine without it installed.
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Jun 15, 2013 23:38
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zundfolge posted:Pulled the driveshaft out of my 1998 V70XC today. So it was AWD and now it's FWD?
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Jun 16, 2013 01:33
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I feel like that can't be good for either the tranny or the diff, depending on the layout.
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Jun 16, 2013 03:57
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From what I understand it's a common solution on the XCs to their many, many drivetrain issues. It probably doesn't cause any damage.
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Jun 16, 2013 03:58
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:So it was AWD and now it's FWD? Exactly. Carteret posted:I feel like that can't be good for either the tranny or the diff, depending on the layout. It doesn't hurt anything. The AWD system is simple and totally mechanical-it consists of an angle gear attached to the transmission, the driveshaft, and a viscous coupling that attaches to the rear diff. The latter only locks up if the front wheels lose traction, so it's freewheeling most of the time in normal driving. Without the driveshaft, it freewheels all the time. It's kind of a hack fix and I'm a little embarrassed by it, but a lot of people have done it without issue. As soon as I can afford to get it rebuilt I'm putting it back. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Jun 16, 2013 |
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Jun 16, 2013 04:17
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I did a nice thorough cleaning of the GTP's door jambs. I also cleaned a little under the hood. Its not perfect but it looks a lot better than it did.
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Jun 16, 2013 05:18
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I haven't talked about my baby, "Old Unreliable," in a few months, but she's up an running again. 1963 Impala 2: The Revenge: Several months ago the two pulleys that attach to my crank hub/pulley sheared the bolts in half and were worthless. I had taken out the radiator in an attempt to make room to pull out the hub, but due to me being broke I was never able to get around to getting the proper puller, which in the case of my 283, would be a claw type rather than the usual balancer puller. I was in the middle of moving houses, as well, and got a tow notice, as was told by the police I had 2 hours to get the car moving. And move it I did, though since some jackass had stolen my car keys (though thanks to a worn ignition, I could still drive), my radiator was locked in my trunk. My tranny cooler lines were already damaged, so I hacksawed the ends and connected them with rubber hose and some hose clamps, jumped the battery, and ran the car with no water of any kind the 3 miles to my new house. That week I had my short, skinny roommate unscrew the lock for me so I could get into the trunk, and replaced the radiator... but wasn't able to fix my tranny lines until a few days ago. Since then it's been trial and error in terms of repairs: I had to replace my dead optima red top, (hooray warranty!) tighten my power steering pump at three points (which turns out to have been the reason for my balancer checking out) put some slightly bent pulleys back onto the engine, adjust my timing because the distributor had come loose and was rotating freely, and replace a couple fuses. Now it's running fairly well, though my oil pressure issue remains. Currently I'm trying to find a way to make my AM radio function so I can put it back into the car. Anyhow, She's running the best she has since I've had her, for what's it's worth, but she's much more reliable now, if a bit of a gas hog. I probably need to readjust the timing again, and the fuel mixture. It's going to take years, but I know I will get her JUST right.
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Jun 16, 2013 05:19
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Had my stock muffler put back on on my 05 330ci ZHP. Kept the aftermarket piping and x-pipe though so I still lack resonators. Completely killed all the drone at moderate RPMs and still sounds amazing above 3000, and screams over 4000. Also almost silent at idle now. I really think BMW engineers their exhausts to be really really quiet due to European standards.
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Jun 16, 2013 07:08
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11BulletCatcher posted:I haven't talked about my baby, "Old Unreliable," in a few months, but she's up an running again.  Holy hit, you kept it!You magnificent bastard! 
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Jun 16, 2013 13:28
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Started making and welding a replacement tailgate weatherstrip lip into the Niva. The metal was pretty lovely where the roof panel met the rib section that also has the lip. Couldn't do much about that except give it a good wire wheeling and galvanize it. Yes I'm galvanizing it. If it rusted so badly it was for a reason.
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Jun 16, 2013 13:49
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Astroman posted:
I almost didn't. But I couldn't afford to register my Cadillac and I finally got caught running it with the Impala's plates. Since that prohibited me from driving that car for a while, and I needed a car for college, I took a day and did everything in my power to fix her immediate problems. Now my main issue is keeping her gassed up, but that should become less of an issue as my GI bill starts flowing in. Also, would you believe that this thing likes running 96 octane? A buddy spotted me some gas meant for his chainsaw, and the car loved it.
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Jun 16, 2013 14:54
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Working up the nerve to start my jeep after changing the thermostat with just a gasket, gasket and shellac, and now RTV.
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Jun 16, 2013 15:29
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11BulletCatcher posted:I almost didn't. But I couldn't afford to register my Cadillac and I finally got caught running it with the Impala's plates. Since that prohibited me from driving that car for a while, and I needed a car for college, I took a day and did everything in my power to fix her immediate problems. Now my main issue is keeping her gassed up, but that should become less of an issue as my GI bill starts flowing in. Also, would you believe that this thing likes running 96 octane? A buddy spotted me some gas meant for his chainsaw, and the car loved it. One thing that struck me while I was reading an owners manual (glovebox type) for my 1964 Galaxie was the power ratings. 300 horses when running 100 octane. What I gather is that is based on one of the two ways of measuring octane, so really it's much lower today. Either way, I'd imagine that would be based on timing, and your engine is timed at 0* advance, giving the most possible compression before ignition, and lesser gas is pre igniting. Although you would know that, since you reset it. What kind of compression do you get out of that 283?
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Jun 16, 2013 16:38
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I wish I knew that. But I did my timing by ear, because I'm poor and don't own a timing light. And I have no gauges to speak of. I know what it's SUPPOSED to make: According to my owner's manual, it's supposed to make: 195 HP @ 4800 RPM 285 ft/lb torque at 2400 rpm Compression ratio of 9.25:1 It also says I ought to be 4 degrees BTDC Now, I doubt at it's age and current status it's quite making those numbers anymore, but I'm going to keep thinking it because it makes me happy. 11BulletCatcher fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Jun 16, 2013 |
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Jun 16, 2013 16:51
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11BulletCatcher posted:I almost didn't. But I couldn't afford to register my Cadillac and I finally got caught running it with the Impala's plates. Since that prohibited me from driving that car for a while, and I needed a car for college, I took a day and did everything in my power to fix her immediate problems. Now my main issue is keeping her gassed up, but that should become less of an issue as my GI bill starts flowing in. Also, would you believe that this thing likes running 96 octane? A buddy spotted me some gas meant for his chainsaw, and the car loved it. I started putting 94 in my 99 and 65 Caddys (used to run 89). Both sound much better.
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Jun 16, 2013 18:36
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Ozmiander posted:Working up the nerve to start my jeep after changing the thermostat with just a gasket, gasket and shellac, and now RTV. IT FINALLY HOLDS COOLANT. IT ONLY TOOK LIKE 2OZ OF RTV! Also, i've just been inspired about how to redo the paint on my YJ: 
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Jun 16, 2013 19:26
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Finished completely rewiring my '88 pre-OBD civic with a OBD2a wiring harness. Thanks to the fastidious checking and rechecking of our work, it started up first try with no CELs or anything. It didn't help that no one has posted anything about this on the internet so we were on our own pretty much. I just have to install a new heater core, pick up my custom radiator, and fix a leaking fuel line then I can go get the car tuned. Hopefully the new tuner doesn't burn up the harness like the last one did; I'm not doing wiring ever again. We also test fitted the bumper now that the intercooler is permanently installed, I think a cutoff wheel may be required. 
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Jun 16, 2013 22:00
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RE: gaschat, it's not just different rating methods, the premium-equivalent fuels those motors were built to run on are equivalent to about 94-95 octane (US AKI rating) today. The lead additives (Tetra-etyl lead, or TEL) they used were primarily an anti-knock additive, and since high octane fuel was everywhere, a lot of American V8s were tuned to run on it, including high compression ratios (as high as 9-10:1). It's no surprise they run better on 93. That said, I don't know if your heads have been rebuilt at any point, but if not you may want to either budget for it, or invest in some lead additive substitute. They used it to lubricate the valve seats, which were made of softer metal, so running modern fuels without TEL will lead to them wearing out prematurely. It's a simple fix, just have to install hardened seats like newer motors have.
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Jun 17, 2013 00:04
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To my knowledge, my engine has never been rebuilt, only the carburetor, and I try to run lead substitute when possible. I'll try running higher octane fuel more often and see if it likes it.
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Jun 17, 2013 00:19
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11BulletCatcher posted:To my knowledge, my engine has never been rebuilt, only the carburetor, and I try to run lead substitute when possible. I'll try running higher octane fuel more often and see if it likes it. It probably will. Although my car was built in '96 the 302W is an ancient motor. Because of the timing requirements for LPG it runs really advanced. So in Aussie octanes I can't run it on 91, on 95 it runs okay but gets about 15L/100km highway and 25L/100km town, but on 98 it gets 7.5 highway and about 12 town. Honestly I've never had a car that wasn't happier on the higher octane fuels. Especially now that standard is ethanol doped it screws with them big time. On top of that Australia has some really lovely quality fuel in places so it's a game of choosing the right place to buy it from too. If you don't mind the little extra cost I'd suggest running you car off a higher octane and tuning it to suit. Valve seats are a problem. I know there are drip feed lube systems with a larger bottle of the stuff you chuck in every tank. Depending on budget getting hardened seats is probably the best way to go. It's a solution rather than a palliative treatment. e: This morning I discovered, or rather rediscovered that the rear demister on the Fairlane doesn't work. It stopped lasy year but I forgot because I haven't needed it since then. Also I bought a couple of exhaust clamps for the Niva. I broke one of the old ones and just want to replace its equally rusty friend. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Jun 17, 2013 |
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Jun 17, 2013 00:31
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Finally got around to some of the minor stuff I'd been putting off for bullshit reasons. I was forced to action by the extreme annoyance of the driver's door panel falling off. I didn't have new clips, so the panel is held in place by a) replacements for the missing screws that go in just behind the door handle and b) a couple of longer screws that go in vertically through the top edge of the panel and into the tube steel frame of the door. I guess my car isn't fully stock anymore. Driver Door 1 by Execudork, on Flickr (no, I haven't gotten to painting over the epoxy putty and POR-15, yet. I have no excuse, except laziness)  Driver Door 5 by Execudork, on Flickr Then I replaced the driver's exterior mirror, looks like water got in between the glass and the reflective layer on the back, leading to a weird rust-like effect. Of course, on my car, it's rust or rust-like. Always.  Driver Door 6 by Execudork, on Flickr Then I cleaned the inside. It hadn't seen either my vacuum cleaner nor a wet rag for nigh-on 10 months. The weight savings from the assload of gravel I pulled out of the footwells should be good for a tenth at autocross, I think.
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Jun 17, 2013 03:05
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doogle posted:Finished completely rewiring my '88 pre-OBD civic with a OBD2a wiring harness. Thanks to the fastidious checking and rechecking of our work, it started up first try with no CELs or anything. It didn't help that no one has posted anything about this on the internet so we were on our own pretty much. I'm still wondering how in the gently caress a shop managed to fry an entire harness. Did they try to jump it with the cables backwards? Try to jump another car through a brake light socket?  What else got fried?Still, IMO, Honda's early OBD2 is incredibly easy to deal with, and should be a huge upgrade in just about every way over the 88's original ECU. If you're not running a cat, expect the P0420 fairy to visit shortly, but it sounds like you're running an aftermarket ECU anyway?
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Jun 17, 2013 16:47
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Dumped my oil all over the road oil pressur sending unit took a poo poo, hopefully autozone has one.
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Jun 17, 2013 17:47
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some texas redneck posted:I'm still wondering how in the gently caress a shop managed to fry an entire harness. Did they try to jump it with the cables backwards? Try to jump another car through a brake light socket? Yeah I'm running a chipped p28 (OBD1) ecu with hondata s300. Here is the story on the old harness: I dropped the car off to get tuned, they said my coil on plug kit was wired wrong (it wasn't, looking back they probably never worked with a coil on plug b18 and didn't enable it in the tuning software). I called them 3 days in a row without getting a hold of them then they said to come pick the car up. I went to get it, and they said my ECU was broken and I owed them $1000 for essentially breaking my car. The only work I authorized was the tune, and they tried to say I told them to fix anything that the car needed. I asked to see the work order but they obviously couldn't produce it. I paid $300 cash (the cost of the tune) and $700 on my card then immediately reversed the charge once the car was on my trailer. After I got the car back to my friend's shop we found that most of the insulation on the wiring was burnt. The ECU was also fried, along with the cluster. No idea how they did that.
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Jun 17, 2013 19:23
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I think we need to know what shop did that so no one from AI goes there, ever. That's really lovely behavior for a shop.
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Jun 17, 2013 19:37
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And people think I'm crazy when I drove 750 miles one-way to get my car tuned.
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Jun 17, 2013 19:47
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j3rkstore posted:And people think I'm crazy when I drove 750 miles one-way to get my car tuned. Well there is the running it on a dangerous tune for 750 mi.
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Jun 17, 2013 21:38
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Made the most fragile antenna mount ever. 
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Jun 17, 2013 22:36
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...either china is invading my town, or the Chinese restaurant is using CBs to communicate with their drivers, since CH9 is full of Chinese speech and addresses.
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Jun 17, 2013 23:38
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Ozmiander posted:...either china is invading my town, or the Chinese restaurant is using CBs to communicate with their drivers, since CH9 is full of Chinese speech and addresses. Yeah, why buy MURS radios so you can be (license free) in compliance with the FCC when you can just use a CB instead?
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Jun 18, 2013 00:34
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