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wolrah posted:I know the car is due for the full cooling system refresh anyways, but I at least want to *find* the problem before I just throw everything at it.
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Jun 13, 2013 16:01
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SuperDucky posted:Pardon my ignorance but why? Ideally you should be replacing every piece of the cooling system so you don't have to go back in there for another ~75k. Maybe it's something not related to the regular cooling system components and a big enough deal that you'd rather jump ship than spend the money on a new cooling system AND whatever the repair is, but you'll only know if you find the problem.
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Jun 13, 2013 16:17
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SuperDucky posted:Pardon my ignorance but why? Ideally you should be replacing every piece of the cooling system so you don't have to go back in there for another ~75k. Agree 100%. The only way to definitively sort out BMW coolant issues is with a periodic large spray of parts off of Amazon or RockAuto. Aim at front of engine bay. Repeat after 40k miles. I tried to get clever and thrifty keeping my E36 on the road and all it got me was JB-Welded hose nipples in failing radiators; I bit the bullet and bought a whole new round, and never had a problem from then on. E: The only other thing it could really be would be a blown HG; an exhaust gas coolant test and/or pressure test can allow you to scratch that off. Beyond that, it's just a series of $20-200 parts that are easy to get to, remove and install.
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Jun 13, 2013 16:19
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MrMidnight posted:Going for a test drive of this 2012 BMW 650i tomorrow. Does the car look good on paper? I'm a total BMW newbie so your opinions mean a lot! 2012 is the first model year for the F12 650 so there might be some "teething" problems/bugs that are usually around with 1st year models. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=155
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Jun 13, 2013 16:20
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The only other thing I'd add about the 650i is that it's basically a 550i with a large markup in return for having 2 fewer doors. It's not significantly lighter or faster than a 550i and the options available are basically identical too. Unless you're really married to getting the 2 door the 5 series makes more sense IMO. To put it in perspective, a new 2013 (or 2014, whatever) 550i starts at $62,700. e: I think for the MY 2013 or 2014 they upped the 650's power over the 550 slightly, but my basic point still stands. sean10mm fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 19:14
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SuperDucky posted:Pardon my ignorance but why? Ideally you should be replacing every piece of the cooling system so you don't have to go back in there for another ~75k. Mostly this: televiper posted:Maybe it's something not related to the regular cooling system components and a big enough deal that you'd rather jump ship than spend the money on a new cooling system AND whatever the repair is, but you'll only know if you find the problem. I'm an IT/telecom jack-of-all-trades in my day job, so I really like knowing exactly what the problem is before I throw parts at it, because otherwise you can never be entirely sure that you fixed the problem or just patched it to a point that it'll come back and bite you in the rear end later. I've also been holding out hope that Vorshlag will actually start shipping their LSx swap bits before I have a total meltdown, in which case any work done to the OE system is basically wasted because little to none of it will remain. I've had the money set aside in reserve for years now, knowing that by enthusiast standards it was due for the full rebuild when I bought it 80,000 miles ago, I'm just sort of stubborn. No question though that if I do anything to the cooling system I'm doing the whole thing end to end. I don't drive it outside of my local area now that there's definitely something wrong, so without any sign of coolant in the oil as far as I see it my worst case is having to wait for a tow home if whatever it is gives up before I find it. I'm not the sort of idiot who will keep driving for ten miles as their engine eats itself, any sign of steam or unusual movement on the temp gauge and I'm engine off coasting to the side of the road. wolrah fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 20:05
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sean10mm posted:The only other thing I'd add about the 650i is that it's basically a 550i with a large markup in return for having 2 fewer doors. It's not significantly lighter or faster than a 550i and the options available are basically identical too. Unless you're really married to getting the 2 door the 5 series makes more sense IMO. The 6 series definitely gets better interior bits than the 5 series, especially those seats. 
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Jun 13, 2013 20:26
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sean10mm posted:The only other thing I'd add about the 650i is that it's basically a 550i with a large markup in return for having 2 fewer doors. It's not significantly lighter or faster than a 550i and the options available are basically identical too. Unless you're really married to getting the 2 door the 5 series makes more sense IMO. Look, if we as bought cars solely for practical reasons we would all be driving minivans and not BMWs. The very nature of purchasing a BMW or any luxury/sporty car pretty much throws that notion out the window. Personally, I would never give a sedan even so much as an ounce of consideration if a coupe body style existed. I just find 4-door BMWs to be frumpy and ill-proportioned, with the E39 being the only exception.
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Jun 13, 2013 21:27
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A self-proclaimed "total BMW newbie" like the guy who asked the question that prompted my comment, might not know that the 650i isn't drastically different from a 550i, that's all I was saying. It's not like I implied you're an rear end in a top hat if you buy a BMW coupe or something buying *any* BMW makes you an rear end in a top hat 
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Jun 13, 2013 21:44
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I haven't driven a new 6 series but I've sat in one a few times and the interior is far superior if you aren't planning on using your back seat much. And it looks way nicer. Probably drives the same as a 5 series.
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Jun 13, 2013 22:03
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My wife's 2006 e61 has decided it doesn't want to wirelessly lock or unlock the doors any more. Everything else works. We looked at fuses, they were all ok. I suspect that its something to do with the antenna thing in the back, as we were using the glass hatch a lot over the weekend, and may have broken some wires. I would like to have some sort of diagnostics on the modules. I have a cable I bought for this car, but can't figure out what I actually need to do to get software working. Has anyone gone through the "coding" stuff? I don't need to code, I just need to see what the computer thinks is wrong. I read the faq on a few bmw coding sites, but my mind exploded. I downloaded some sort of INPA from their formus, but I think I need ISTA/D for diagnostics. I don't need to do any lame changes like angle eye voltages, just want the car to work.
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Jun 13, 2013 23:24
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If its just your doors not locking or unlocking, it might just be your keys aren't being recognized by the car anymore; it happened in my E46 when one of the key batteries went flat. I charged the key up and brought it over to my indie shop where they reinitialised it free of charge. The way to prevent this from happening is to switch keys once every couple months (at least, with that style of key; not too sure about later cars, especially if they have Comfort Access).
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Jun 13, 2013 23:33
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  Rear hardline loving sprung a pinhole link. So am I correct in thinking that as long as I keep the reservoir topped up, I can limp the car about 50km with (terrible) pressure in the front circuit? Obviously at like 4am to avoid ANY traffic. I still have really lovely front brakes and this is the straw that broke the camels back. I'm gonna part the whole car but I need to get it to a place to actually do so.
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Jun 13, 2013 23:39
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Replaced the thermostat, water pump, radiator, and upper and lower radiator hose to try and fix my issue of running hot. Only to have the hose running to the heater core spring a good sized leak. gently caress it, gonna tow it to a shop and have them deal with that mess and my gauge cluster loving up.
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Jun 14, 2013 00:09
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Crustashio posted:
I need to take a picture of this same location on my '92. Just so you can see the comparison.
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Jun 14, 2013 00:13
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Nah, my M3 is absolutely mint so I know what a rustfree e36 looks like 
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Jun 14, 2013 00:43
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Drunken Lullabies posted:Thanks, it was just really siezed on there. I always get nervous about breaking things I own, but my old man had no problem tearing it out. What chassis? Without clarification, I am leaning toward HIR 
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Jun 14, 2013 05:50
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Drunken Lullabies posted:I haven't driven a new 6 series but I've sat in one a few times and the interior is far superior if you aren't planning on using your back seat much. And it looks way nicer. Probably drives the same as a 5 series. So does the car look like a good deal on paper? I do want the 2 door model vs. the 4 door for the reasons stated above. The interior is also very important to me. I'm going this afternoon to test drive it and if I like it I'm going to pick it up.
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Jun 14, 2013 14:34
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MrMidnight posted:So does the car look like a good deal on paper? I do want the 2 door model vs. the 4 door for the reasons stated above. The interior is also very important to me. I ran its specs through KBB and it came back with $74,881 for the price for a CPO 650i with that mileage, so it seems OK to me. You're also saving an absolutely hilarious amount of money over getting a new 650i with those options, like 25 grand or something, and still getting a basically new car. sean10mm fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Jun 14, 2013 |
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Jun 14, 2013 16:32
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MrMidnight posted:So does the car look like a good deal on paper? I do want the 2 door model vs. the 4 door for the reasons stated above. The interior is also very important to me. Looks about right comparing to what my dealership wants for a vert 650i.
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Jun 14, 2013 16:50
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Production Date for the 650 Vin WBALX3C53CC528584 is 07/2011 so right around 2 years old. Offer them $70k...and really inspect the paintwork etc....they sometimes re-spray panels under "CPO" processing and it's considered normal. She's a pretty shark!
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Jun 14, 2013 17:16
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I'm not keen on re-starting Das Volk's Home for Abused German Cars again but I may make an exception for this one if the price is right. Has the usual "idiot owner" problems, has been sitting for ages and ages, but has a straight body, mostly is complete and I think could be a good restoration candidate. The owner claims that the car is mechanically sound, needs a shift linkage and some cosmetic work but otherwise driveable. What should I offer the guy? It's got 115k on the clock and has been sitting there for a very long time, I'm thinking a year or more, but again for the right money I would like to go all Wheeler Dealers on this and bring this modern classic back from the brink. 
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Jun 14, 2013 23:16
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Dead rubber (bushings/etc) might drive you mad maybe, but that thing looks pretty effing good.
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Jun 14, 2013 23:18
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If you can get that for less than 12 it will probably be a good deal.
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Jun 14, 2013 23:29
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From what I can see it's going to need springs, probably shocks, seats, new seatbelts to replace the ridiculous red ones in it, I'll probably ditch those riammzzz for some smaller/lighter stockers and a whole lot of cleaning. There's also tons of cobwebs on it.
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Jun 14, 2013 23:56
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If it's not rusty and the S14 is in good shape (have a leakdown/compression test done!) I'd agree with 10-12kish. You'll probably need to replace a bunch of stupid niggling parts, but those are nothing compared to the cost of bodywork and rebuilding the S14.
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Jun 15, 2013 00:12
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If the car has sat long enough you should look over and consider the need to replace the rotors, fuel pump, any rubber/plastic bits (driveshaft stuff in particular likes to rot out) parts of the suspension, tires will be out of round and the rims/wheels could be too if it wasn't on blocks, seals could have dried out causing leaks, cylinders could get some flash rust, underbody rust, rotted out fuel/electrical lines, air conditioning seals... bunch of stuff... If you can get it for cheap and it was stored properly (on blocks, fluids drained, in a dry garage) it all just depends on how it was stored.
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Jun 15, 2013 00:20
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Do it. These cars seem to be only gaining value at this point. Clean it up and you could probably sell it for more than you bought it for as well.
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Jun 15, 2013 00:28
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You're obviously lying about not being keen on the idea Jump aboard!
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Jun 15, 2013 00:51
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Das Volk posted:I'm not keen on re-starting Das Volk's Home for Abused German Cars again but I may make an exception for this one if the price is right. Has the usual "idiot owner" problems, has been sitting for ages and ages, but has a straight body, mostly is complete and I think could be a good restoration candidate. The owner claims that the car is mechanically sound, needs a shift linkage and some cosmetic work but otherwise driveable. What should I offer the guy? It's got 115k on the clock and has been sitting there for a very long time, I'm thinking a year or more, but again for the right money I would like to go all Wheeler Dealers on this and bring this modern classic back from the brink. Don't ask, just do it...though I might be cautious with this particular car. It might just be the picture, but the front fender doesn't seem to match the door very well.
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Jun 15, 2013 02:01
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MrMidnight posted:So does the car look like a good deal on paper? I do want the 2 door model vs. the 4 door for the reasons stated above. The interior is also very important to me. Were you there this afternoon? My wife and I were at advantage around 5-6 today trying get a package deal on 328 and an x1 :3 The matte m5 they have is disgustingly pretty.
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Jun 15, 2013 04:39
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Das Volk posted:I'm not keen on re-starting Das Volk's Home for Abused German Cars again but I may make an exception for this one if the price is right. Has the usual "idiot owner" problems, has been sitting for ages and ages, but has a straight body, mostly is complete and I think could be a good restoration candidate. The owner claims that the car is mechanically sound, needs a shift linkage and some cosmetic work but otherwise driveable. What should I offer the guy? It's got 115k on the clock and has been sitting there for a very long time, I'm thinking a year or more, but again for the right money I would like to go all Wheeler Dealers on this and bring this modern classic back from the brink. Offer 10, if you can get it for under 15 you're doing ok. 115k isn't muck for miles but that is a lot of little things it needs and NLA parts can be a bitch. Would be good to see a neglected M3 get cleaned up and back on the road. A clean shell and functional S14 is worth 7-10, anything beyond that is a bonus. Check out this listing as kind of a reference - http://www.s14.net/forums/showthread.php?59935-FS-4-87-DS-on-black-leather I have an unlimited autocheck for this month, PM me the VIN and your email if you want it run. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Jun 15, 2013 |
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Jun 15, 2013 05:28
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revmoo posted:I had clanking a long time ago and it was the inner rear brake pads. Does it go away temporarily if you slam the brakes? the fix is to take the pad out and spread the metal fingers out a bit that go into the piston. Just wanted to say thank you so much. This was exactly what it was. In fact it got so bad that it knocked out approximately 1mm on both top and bottom of the caliper carrier. $150 for a piece of cast iron. 
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Jun 15, 2013 13:57
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Looks like my car is entering its "spend lots of money on me phase of its life." BMW says it's getting a very slow oil leak which I can live with. This just gives me a reason to double down on BMW and get a 1 series later this year or early next.
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Jun 15, 2013 16:06
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Is 250 deg f too hot for the oil in my 07 335?
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Jun 15, 2013 17:06
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Is 250 deg f too hot for the oil in my 07 335? I think the early cars got hot enough that they were installing aux oil coolers in cars that were overheating and/or going into limp mode, so probably. Thanks nitro.
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Jun 16, 2013 01:34
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Das Volk posted:I think the early cars got hot enough that they were installing aux oil coolers in cars that were overheating and/or going into limp mode, so probably. I was told the car has an oil cooler. The engine bay is a pile of plastic shrouds and sensor wires though so I haven't checked to see if it's actually there. I heard it was part of the sport package. The only time it hit the 250 range (maybe not quite that hot) was during spirited driving in 95 degree weather. I can probably avoid doing that. Driving across the country a couple weeks ago it was 220-230 and seemed happy.
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Jun 16, 2013 16:14
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I was told the car has an oil cooler. The engine bay is a pile of plastic shrouds and sensor wires though so I haven't checked to see if it's actually there. I heard it was part of the sport package. The only time it hit the 250 range (maybe not quite that hot) was during spirited driving in 95 degree weather. I can probably avoid doing that. Driving across the country a couple weeks ago it was 220-230 and seemed happy. The aux oil cooler on a 335 should be in front of the passenger side tire. That said, many 2007 335 sport packages were without the oil cooler, and non sport didn't have them at all. So, who knows.
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Jun 16, 2013 17:24
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 Is this a good deal? All I've learned so far is that it has a clean title, no leaks and that the top is in "fair" shape with holes that need to be patched. From what I've read about E30 cabrios, when the top has a lot of holes, you should just replace it completely (although I'm not sure I follow the logic on the that). Waiting to hear on timing belt and if they still have the OEM wheels.
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Jun 16, 2013 18:51
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That's almost certainly a good deal. Not at all my style but it looks fine from here. Budget 2500 for the first year and you'll love it.
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Jun 16, 2013 19:35
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