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jamal posted:The benefit from ditching the scoop and properly guiding airflow far far outweighs any possible downside from not sort of blowing air across the turbo, which is watercooled anyway. It is not a "possible" downside, it's a proven downside - there is a direct decrease in underbonnet temps with the scoop in place and lower intake temperatures. I'm not saying that removing the scoop is always a bad idea, but what you HAVE to do is get your ducks in a row and think about getting some cooler air around the turbo, especially if it's in the stock position. Just half arsed blocking poo poo off may well make your motor go bang and I know for a few people it has.
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Jun 14, 2013 05:38
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Is it just me or does extra-S smell like pine scented cleaning product?  Does anyone know if this is intended for whatever reason or if it's just a coincidence due to their manufacturer blend?
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Jun 14, 2013 06:16
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We hired one of our interns on for full time. His graduation present from us will be a short shifter for his '10 or '11 WRX. This is the right one, right?: http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-2000-kartboy-shifter-and-bushing-combos-for-subaru-5-speeds.aspx quote:Short Shifter and Bushings for the 05-09 Legacy GT and 2008+ WRX 5-speed
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Jun 14, 2013 07:24
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McSpatula posted:Is it just me or does extra-S smell like pine scented cleaning product? Smells like gear oil to me.  Maybe you're a super smeller, that or your house reeks of 75W-90 from whatever brand of floor cleaner you use.
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Jun 14, 2013 11:59
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ssjonizuka posted:Backseat of a wrx is not optimal for rear facing baby seats. If you are only going to have one, put it in the middle and you can do ok, but if you need to put it on one side of the car, someone is going to suffer (the passenger, since you wouldn't want to drive with your knees crunched against the dash). The dealer may have a dummy cars eat for you to try. Congrats on your upcoming big family! I agree it is difficult to find cars that fit rear facing seats well. They take up a ton of room, and there is surprisingly little difference in room between shoehorning them into a STi, or a larger sedan. We're planning on having at least one more kid, and I've already decided to find an older minivan or SUV to shuttle them around in (In addition to my car).I think having two car seats in the back of my STi would make me claustrophobic. Don't buy a Venza. My mom has one, she lives on the opposite coast from me and didn't consult me before buying. It was even worse than I imagined. For a Toyota, the interior integrity is pretty bad, and it just doesn't drive very well.
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Jun 14, 2013 12:28
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Since we're already in baby-chat, does anyone have recommendations for a convertible (rear and front facing) car seat that will definitely fit in the WRX? In a Graco infant car seat (the kind that can be carried out), my daughter fits fine, either in the middle or behind a seat. But instead of getting another base ($50) I was planning to buy a permanent seat.
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Jun 14, 2013 12:47
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Why don't you just put all that stuff into the SVX? The Liberty is a daily, a V4 2lt was a better choice for it. Dont really have the time or patience to get a 6 cylinder registered and engineered in Australia, but it was my first thoughts about building one. I'd much rather an EG33 or EZ30R than a 2lt turbo, but its not worth the effort at the moment. Might keep my RS shell and put something stupid into it like an EG33, theres a guy in my town selling a few engines.
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Jun 14, 2013 13:11
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Someone is selling a bugeye JDM STi hood scoop on CL that's already painted to match my Sedona Red car. Is there any reason to get it besides looks? I do like how it looks over the little stock scoop, but I don't like spending money on just looks, and I imagine it will probably increase the already poor cD. Basically I'm looking for an excuse to get it other than "JDM yo." This is my DD/Auto-x/hopefully-someday-some-HPDEs car. E: Stock TMIC and tune. Neptr fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Jun 14, 2013 |
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Jun 14, 2013 16:17
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sim posted:Since we're already in baby-chat, does anyone have recommendations for a convertible (rear and front facing) car seat that will definitely fit in the WRX? In a Graco infant car seat (the kind that can be carried out), my daughter fits fine, either in the middle or behind a seat. But instead of getting another base ($50) I was planning to buy a permanent seat. I have the Recaro ProRide. Fits well and my daughter seems to like it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IT4YAM/ref=redir_mdp_mobile The big negative is that it doesn't have cup holders, but we bought one of the clip on ones at Walmart for like 10 bucks. What I really like about it is how you cinch the latch straps down on both sides instead of only one. Makes getting the seat in and tightened down a quick process.
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Jun 14, 2013 17:24
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War Bunny posted:I have the Recaro ProRide. Fits well and my daughter seems to like it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IT4YAM/ref=redir_mdp_mobile +1 for the proride. The new one comes with a cup holder. It is fairly large, but did just fine in my WRX, focus and mazda3
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Jun 14, 2013 21:21
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I've got a pro-ride in my gti and honestly it's not very good compared to some of the other car seats we've owned, especially if you intend to rear face as long as possible. My wife is a car seat enthusiast (yes that's a thing.). So far the best seat we've had is a Diono radian. It allows them to sit much more up right and the bolstering makes it more accessible over the recaro. I asked her about what car seat to get for the WRX and she recommended you go do a thread search on the carseat.org forums.
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Jun 14, 2013 22:50
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So, on a whim my wife bought a '96 legacy outback. It is a five speed awd with about 170k on it. I know nothing about subarus. The car and engine seem to be in great shape. Other than swapping out the timing belt is there anything that I should look out for on a car this age? Also, there is a few things that ,I find odd, when I shift into first and drive the shifter moves back into the center instead of staying the gently caress in place like any other car, this goes for all gears, it makes me uncomfortable. Also, the left turn signal has to be on to start the car. The man that my wife bought it from said that this is an anti theft measure, I feel it is bullshit. There is a anti theft sticker on the window though so who knows. I am more used to early '70s caddys, mgs and hondas. Any help to ease my mind would be appreciated.
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Jun 14, 2013 23:37
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Mr.Bob posted:So, on a whim my wife bought a '96 legacy outback. It is a five speed awd with about 170k on it. I know nothing about subarus. The car and engine seem to be in great shape. Other than swapping out the timing belt is there anything that I should look out for on a car this age? Also, there is a few things that ,I find odd, when I shift into first and drive the shifter moves back into the center instead of staying the gently caress in place like any other car, this goes for all gears, it makes me uncomfortable. Also, the left turn signal has to be on to start the car. The man that my wife bought it from said that this is an anti theft measure, I feel it is bullshit. There is a anti theft sticker on the window though so who knows. I am more used to early '70s caddys, mgs and hondas. Any help to ease my mind would be appreciated. figure out which motor it has. open the hood and look at the plate on the strut tower, it will either be EJ22 or EJ25. The 25 you have to worry about headgaskets which are detailed in the OP. The shifter bushings are probably shot and that's why it goes side to side. Start with the front shift stay bushing: http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_9_10_1355_1359_1374&products_id=15 That's an easy install. If that doesnt fix it, then its either the rear shift stay or more likely the linkage itself, which is replaceable but a pain in the dick.
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Jun 14, 2013 23:46
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Slow is Fast posted:figure out which motor it has. open the hood and look at the plate on the strut tower, it will either be EJ22 or EJ25. The 25 you have to worry about headgaskets which are detailed in the OP. Cool! Thanks! I think it is the ej22 as it is the 2.2 liter engine. Am I correct in this?
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Jun 15, 2013 00:47
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That shift bushing won't help very much. The bushings in the u-joint linkage between the shifter and the transmission are going to be shot.
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Jun 15, 2013 01:13
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jamal posted:That shift bushing won't help very much. The bushings in the u-joint linkage between the shifter and the transmission are going to be shot. It does stay in reverse, does that mean I am hosed? New cars confuse me.
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Jun 15, 2013 01:19
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 Above the rod coming down right in the middle there you can see the linkage above it. That's the piece that actually engages the shift forks in the transmission. It looks like this:  The stock one is riveted together. I just drilled mine out, got another bolt, and used some bushings I got at mcmaster-carr. I'll look up the part numbers I used when I get a chance. The TIC parts *might* work but I'm not all that sure.
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Jun 15, 2013 01:31
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I read the OP and searched but got too many hits for 'Subaru head gasket' Would you mind adding some words to the OP about the newer model Subaru headgaskets and their expected lifetime? Are they MLS now and what year exactly did that start? I'm in the model for a used Impreza or Legacy and am a bit twitchy about buying this kind of problem. What year used should be the cutoff to avoid this? (I was thinking a low miles off-lease purchase) I've always wanted a Subaru and would hate to not buy one over something that isn't actually a problem.
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Jun 15, 2013 03:44
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There's an OP? To my best understanding all the n/a cars got MLS gaskets after 09, but it might be 2010 for some. All new cars have the FA/FB engines which are different, have timing chains, and MLS headgaskets. All turbo cars also have MLS gaskets and won't have problems.
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Jun 15, 2013 06:45
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So I went ahead and bought an '03 TS to replace my '97 OBS after it was hit in a parking lot (insurance is still scrapping it out so I won't say much). Thing is great (the transmission is in amazing condition!) except when I lift throttle it bucks and shudders like the back end and the front end are decelerating at different rates before finally they compression brake at the same speed. I think it might be some kind of driveline bushing or mount but I can't figure out which one it is. The front rear trailing arm bushing seems fine (old and grey, but intact) and so does the rear one. Driveshaft carrier bushing?
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Jun 15, 2013 17:15
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I put some 18s with 255 rubber on my car. before (Stock BBS wheels with 225/45r17 Hankook Ventus v12 Evo):  after (Forgestar F14 wheels with 255/35r18 Dunlop Direzza Z II):  rear/side view:  The roadholding ability of the Direzza tire is just ridiculous.
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Jun 15, 2013 18:54
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Gold wheels look pretty great on that color. Amazing how much of a difference wheels make.
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Jun 15, 2013 20:11
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Anyone know what spark plug gap to run on my MY98 STi EJ20K? Or for that matter exactly which NGK plugs I should run? I was going to pull them to check for fouling but there are aftermarket plug wires so I'm not even sure the right plugs are in there. I did look online but as per usual it's 90% conflicting info.
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Jun 17, 2013 07:30
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Roman Rambo posted:
I've driven on the old Z1 star specs, RS3s, and soon I'll be buying the BFG Rivals. I can't go back to some crappy 200+ TW tires now as a result. As you get even more used to the ZIIs you'll be even more amazed with your car's abilities. I'm really glad for the modern street tire war that's on going. In the end it's the enthusiast that wins.
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Jun 17, 2013 07:48
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The clutch master cylinder on my '02 WRX took a poo poo today. Is there any particular make of replacement I should go with, or will any compatible one I can grab from O'Reilly's be OK?
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Jun 19, 2013 04:23
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I'm getting some vibration under braking even after I've replaced the pads and rotors all around. It feels like it's coming from the front as I feel it in the steering wheel but I can't tell which side. What should i be looking to check up there in the suspension? It's a 2006 Saabaru Aero with about 110k miles on it. I'm thinking it's either a wheel bearing or bushings. It doesn't growl or do anything weird going around turns so that makes me think the bearing is probably ok. The calipers seem to be ok and the pistons pushed back in fine when changing the pads. Any ideas what I should check? Recently replaced: pads (stoptech), rotors (rockauto), struts (monroe), and lowering springs. It vibrated before all of these things so I don't think they're contributing.
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Jun 21, 2013 22:36
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When was the last time you balanced the wheels?
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Jun 22, 2013 01:35
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Amandyke posted:When was the last time you balanced the wheels? I was gonna say balance/alignment.
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Jun 22, 2013 03:10
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnYFs6OpGGs Yay now my stereo doesn't sound terrible.
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Jun 22, 2013 04:10
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With all this warm weather I'm almost missing winter. Almost being the key word. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRirpbqmOzY G-Mach fucked around with this message at 04:49 on Jun 22, 2013 |
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Jun 22, 2013 04:44
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So I've been reading about the piston / ringland failures (gently caress me, reading Subaru-oriented forums is just terrible), and I keep seeing it mentioned that minor detonation from using sub 93 octane fuel can contribute(???). Since I live in AZ and the best fuel we can get is 91 octane pisswater, should I make getting an AP with a 91 tune a priority?
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Jun 22, 2013 07:28
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Linux Nazi posted:So I've been reading about the piston / ringland failures (gently caress me, reading Subaru-oriented forums is just terrible), and I keep seeing it mentioned that minor detonation from using sub 93 octane fuel can contribute(???). What exact car/motor do you have again? Is your octane computed at {R+M}/2? I'm running an ej20k on a 98 STI and half the shops here told me I'm fine and the other half are convinced the engine will blow immediately. I will say that I run 0% ethanol 94 octane to be on the safe side but any shop with a dyno can hook up their own 'external' knock sensor and tailpipe wideband O2 sensor and do some runs on your 91octane and tell you if it's knocking or not. You should be able to tell from a significant power loss on dyno whether its pulling timing. The owner of a local (Vancouver) performance shop who was working the last 20 odd years in Japan doing tuning there took a ride in my car and said he saw/heard/felt no indication of any knocking occurring, and that the motors/ecu's in these cars are excellent at adjusting the timing to accommodate different octanes. My understanding (I think Jamal mentioned this also many pages back when I first got my GC8) is that doing mods to the car that influence boost pressure, back pressure, etc are likely going to put you at risk for some detonation since the ECU isn't capable of adjusting to these changes without being tuned. I'm definitely keeping mine stock, it pulls plenty fast enough and I'd never get the money back that I'd put into a standalone ECU. Plus, when you start modding for power with the tuning potential of a microtech or w/e and poo poo starts to break its that much more irritating to track down replacement parts for the JDM car. Edit: I've also heard that the CEL will flash when it detects detonation but I can't confirm that. Does anyone know for sure which years/models do this warning?
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Jun 22, 2013 09:07
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Blinking CEL on all modern cars I know of means misfire. It's probably an OBD2 thing. Don't know if that includes a JDM vehicle from 98 though.
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Jun 22, 2013 09:18
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Amandyke posted:When was the last time you balanced the wheels? I'd feel an out of balance wheel all the time though I'd think. I've swapped fronts to back and it still does the same thing. Yakattak posted:I was gonna say balance/alignment. I got it aligned very recently when I redid the struts. Any other ideas?
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Jun 22, 2013 14:24
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Linux Nazi posted:So I've been reading about the piston / ringland failures (gently caress me, reading Subaru-oriented forums is just terrible), and I keep seeing it mentioned that minor detonation from using sub 93 octane fuel can contribute(???). Only buy an AP for the power / smoothness. If your car lets a piston go under warranty, who cares? The AP tune is better and in my uneducated opinion safer for the car, but you will probably not get a new short block from Subaru if you loose a piston and they find out about an AP. so the tune is safer, but if your primary concern is spending a bunch of money on a blown motor, it's cheaper/safer for you to roll with the crap factory tune and rely on your warranty. I don't know if I'm making my point but there you go. All that said I have an AP and run 91 aki fuel (Colorado) and my only regret is not buying one sooner. It really does make the car better. Plus I used it to pull codes on our OBS the other day which had a failed solenoid in the fuel tank pressure regulation system.
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Jun 22, 2013 15:18
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Larrymer posted:I'd feel an out of balance wheel all the time though I'd think. I've swapped fronts to back and it still does the same thing. Cashed ball joints / tie rods? Can you shake the front wheel in any direction while it's attached but elevated? Im no pro as you know just some thoughts.
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Jun 22, 2013 15:22
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I'm driving. 2013 STI VelociBacon, also it's all 10% ethanol here no exceptions.THE BLACK NINJA posted:Only buy an AP for the power / smoothness. If your car lets a piston go under warranty, who cares? The AP tune is better and in my uneducated opinion safer for the car, but you will probably not get a new short block from Subaru if you loose a piston and they find out about an AP. so the tune is safer, but if your primary concern is spending a bunch of money on a blown motor, it's cheaper/safer for you to roll with the crap factory tune and rely on your warranty. I don't know if I'm making my point but there you go. I don't want to go look it up because I might go blind, but there's been a few places where the Cobb vendors have mentioned that they understand the ECU better that any dealership, and that the only way to detect if it's been tuned is if you tell them yourself. That there's not even a date stamp present to indicate when the ECU was last flashed. Between that and my particular dealership telling me I should get an AP, I'm not too worried E: Here's one: quote:There is no flash counter on the Subaru ECU. The dealer does not have the ability to use some form of scan tool to discover that your ECU has been reflashed once the AccessPORT has been uninstalled. I hope that this can help dispell any misunderstandings about how the ECU and AccessPORT work. Blame Pyrrhus fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Jun 22, 2013 |
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Jun 22, 2013 16:42
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Cashed ball joints / tie rods? Can you shake the front wheel in any direction while it's attached but elevated? Im no pro as you know just some thoughts. Nothing that I noticed last time. I'll have to jack it up and start prying and see what I can find.
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Jun 22, 2013 17:02
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Larrymer posted:Nothing that I noticed last time. I'll have to jack it up and start prying and see what I can find. You said the caliper cups pushed in easily, but did you service the sliders on the front calipers (unless yours is the 4piston setup) at the same time? Just trying to cover all the bases here.
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Jun 22, 2013 18:00
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Is low coolant a common thing on a 3rd gen WRX? Every 15k miles or so I'll notice it's below the low fill line and I have to top it off. Car has never burned a drop of oil and is in perfect shape otherwise. The car was like this from the factory, the first time I had to refill it was maybe 1500 miles.
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Jun 22, 2013 20:09
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