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Cockmaster posted:This is interesting. Someone is developing a 3D printer to be the household appliance that was originally envisioned, intending to make it usable by people with no substantial technical skill: Man that looks good enough, and the price point is low enough, that I think I might pledge. I had a makergear M2 that I really liked for its super-ridged structure and lack of wood in the construction, but the prints I got from it were of middling quality for the price I paid. I ultimately did some tuning, got it working reliably, and sold it at a small loss. This might be a great way to get another 3d printer, and even if they can't deliver on all of what they promise the outlay is not terrible to get basically what I had before but lacking print size. Further the enclosed build space is likely a great idea because it will remove a lot of warping effects from sudden temperature changes.
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Jun 3, 2013 03:34
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The Next Big Thing will be heralded by the ability to get useful results out of a printer without needing to be an expert. That looks like a good step towards that!
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Jun 3, 2013 04:21
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They're using an H-gantry. Lots of newer designs coming out (scala, delta, h-gantry) are better mechanically but much more difficult with software. Makes sense that the concept was proven with cartesian designs and is now being refined towards industry-standard mechanisms.
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Jun 3, 2013 05:13
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Puttin' together the MendelMax. Opened up the package and found that it doesn't come with any of the electronics...support said "ah, yes, we just ship those separately, they should go out shortly" which is okay, I guess, but disappointing. I wanted to print noooowwww On the other hand, it's encouraging me to take my time assembling the frame, getting everything perfectly squared up and all that, so that's good. This thing is really nicely made. Getting away from the threaded rods and printed joints in favor of aluminum extrusions and laser-cut panels is a massive step in the right direction; in rigidity and mass the frame feels closer to a little Sher-Line mill than a reprap. I am confident that with a good spindle and motor you could use this frame to machine soft parts (wax, renshape, PCBs) pretty damned well. And getting everything in anodized black was definitely the right choice  e: they forgot to include some little bushing mounts. Luckily they have all the STLs available, so I can make them myself. Guess it is a reprap after all! Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Jun 3, 2013 |
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Jun 3, 2013 05:17
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Filastruder in the mail 
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Jun 7, 2013 18:17
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Today I figured out how to remove my hot end. There's the plastic stuck in the top, in the PEEK insulator. Any ideas on how to get it out?
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Jun 8, 2013 20:23
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Power it up so that the plastic gets melty (hold it with something like welding gloves, obviously, or at least oven mitts) and dig out as much as you can with a dental pick. You can also force new filament in by hand while the extruder is hot, purging stuff out the bottom, but if you've got crud buildup that risks getting a clog in the nozzle. Also, if you can disconnect the nozzle itself, I've found that holding the nozzle in a pair of vise-grips and heating it with a pocket torch for about 30 seconds tends to soften the plastic plenty to dig it out as well. Obviously don't do this to anything that's connected to the heater or thermistor, or while it's still attached to the PEEK.
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Jun 8, 2013 20:50
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Joining a hackerspace that has Makerbots and a powder 3D printer. I couldn't be more stoked.
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Jun 9, 2013 01:37
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Chainclaw posted:Today I figured out how to remove my hot end. There's the plastic stuck in the top, in the PEEK insulator. Any ideas on how to get it out? Soldering iron or a heat gun, insert a conductive wire into it (like a paper-clip or a pin) then flash chill that (say by dipping it into ice water), pull. The insulator should still be above melting plastic hot, melting the plastic touching it, but the plastic touching the pin should be hard, and now you can pull it out. Repeat until it is clean enough to work with again.
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Jun 9, 2013 03:31
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Interesting little video showing the software that's being developed for the Makibox: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmAFsPOHt8k
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Jun 10, 2013 16:51
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How difficult would it be to add a head for something like Bare Paint to a 3D printer? I'm picturing an ABS model with tiny grooves for the paint to flow in so you can effectively build simple circuits into prints like a spiral resistor pattern, block capacitors or simple connections for cold soldering more complex components in a later stage of the build. Here's a tutorial aimed at very basic arduino usage. https://vimeo.com/31850045
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Jun 12, 2013 18:51
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Got a replacement build plate for my Replicator 2X today the new one is curved as well but not as much as my previous one, which I could slide a card between a straightedge and the plate. I can't seem to do that with this one but the curve is still there. I guess it's the best I'm going to get. Sort of disappointing that this is the quality you get for purchasing this machine. At least I'm glad I can print again after 2 weeks.
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Jun 12, 2013 19:52
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Verizian posted:How difficult would it be to add a head for something like Bare Paint to a 3D printer? Probably not very! Check out any of the many syringe extruders on Thingiverse -- they're all designed to extrude small quantities (up to about 20mL) of compounds that are liquid at room temperature. The hardest part would be getting the thing tweaked to extrude the right amount and not drip extra goo where you don't want it, and that could probably be solved by messing around with retraction settings and the like.
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Jun 13, 2013 04:08
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So I just got a Solidoodle 3. So far it's been great, I got the abs settings down, but I want to try and print in nylon as well as adjust certain settings, but it doesn't want to listen to me it seems. I'll set the temperatures in slic3r, I'll try to reset them in the g-code, but it will just always default to 200C for extruder and 90 for the bed (even when I don't want it). How do I actually change these settings so that they, well, work? EDIT: Well I got it to mostly work the hard way. Turns out I was missing one line in the gcode that set it to 200 regardless of other settings. However every time I slice it resets to those defaults. Crain fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Jun 14, 2013 |
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Jun 14, 2013 15:34
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Crain posted:So I just got a Solidoodle 3. So far it's been great, I got the abs settings down, but I want to try and print in nylon as well as adjust certain settings, but it doesn't want to listen to me it seems. I'll set the temperatures in slic3r, I'll try to reset them in the g-code, but it will just always default to 200C for extruder and 90 for the bed (even when I don't want it). There's a setting in Repetier-Host that overrides everything else. In The Slic3r settings, in the Printer Settings tab, go to the "Custom G-code" tab. Look up instances of S200 in the "Start G-code" window, and set it to the temperature you wish to print at. I believe there are two S200s to set in here. Save the printer settings, and don't forget to select your new printer settings next time you slice.
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Jun 14, 2013 16:04
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Any suggestions for nylon? I'm currently using a lower (180C) extruder temp with blue painters tape. Should I try just using the kapton tape bed and heater? I get a lot of warping.
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Jun 14, 2013 17:56
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Print Nylon at 220 onto a room-temperature bed with fresh painters tape. You have to go slow, no more than 40mm/sec. Make sure the Nylon has been dried in an oven (250F for 4h) and stored with a powerful dessicant.
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Jun 14, 2013 18:12
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Anybody know offhand the proper steps for diagnosing an extruder jam? I jammed printing PLA on 2 out of 3 of my first prints. I managed to gently pull the filament out while running the extruder backwards, but I'm not sure what I need to do next to determine the root cause. I'm blindly adding a fan next.
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Jun 16, 2013 02:24
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A fan is for cooling the material as it's laid down on the print, so that it doesn't sag or drip or wiggle. It won't do anything to help a jam inside the extruder. What's happening exactly? Is material just not coming out at all? Is the filament stripping in place and not moving as the drive hob rotates? Are you getting a thin wiggly stream of plastic instead of a nice straight round one?
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Jun 16, 2013 02:49
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Sagebrush posted:A fan is for cooling the material as it's laid down on the print, so that it doesn't sag or drip or wiggle. It won't do anything to help a jam inside the extruder. Not true. With J-heads and MetalMagmas a fan is used when printing with PLA to prevent heat from creeping up the hot end, softening the PLA outside the hot zone and then causing a jam. I can't wait, I get my Pryntech OpenSL printer from the IndieGoGo campaign on Monday.
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Jun 16, 2013 03:02
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I believe he means he's adding a fan to the hotend column to prevent heat from migrating up the barrel and prematurely softening or melting the filament. beaten...
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Jun 16, 2013 03:02
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Ah, my bad -- that's true. Forgot about those fans. Add another one to the questions: How much filament can you pull out before you get to the melted zone? Is only the last half-inch or so blobby, or does it break off close below the hob? That will help diagnose if it's overheating and a fan will actually help. If you have a multimeter with a thermocouple probe, you could also measure the temperature at a few places inside the head while it's on and see what your temperature gradient looks like.
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Jun 16, 2013 03:16
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Here's a photo of the filament that I pulled out: The hobbed bolt was just stripping the filament and I couldn't get it to advance, even if I manually pushed down on the filament. I could pull it back up while running the extruder in reverse, though. I think the bolt was biting in near the 3" mark. If I hold it up to the side of my extruder and hot end, the bottom end of the piece matches up pretty much exactly with the backup plate of the budaschnozzle. The part where it starts to deform (around 4 and 5/8ths) matches up pretty closely with the top of the PEEK isolator.
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Jun 16, 2013 07:58
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Yeah don't use a Budaschozzle with PLA. I've always had them eventually jam. Too much thermal creep. They work amazingly well with ABS or Nylon though.
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Jun 16, 2013 19:59
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I feel like in order for 3D printers to truly catch on with the mainstream, besides all the other issues that need to be sorted out like reliability and maintenance, people really need to stop giving printers/parts thereof names like "lulzbot budaschnozzle".
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Jun 17, 2013 00:40
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insta posted:Yeah don't use a Budaschozzle with PLA. I've always had them eventually jam. Too much thermal creep. What's a good nozzle for PLA that connects to the extruder the same way? DBlue135 fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Jun 17, 2013 |
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Jun 17, 2013 02:57
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Same way, being a mounting plate? Really, any at this point. Nearly all have that, although none but the Buda sit flush. I like the Arcol.hu v4 as you can force-air cool it (and get some of that sweet sweet polycarbonate printing as well). It made for some very pretty prints because the large heaterblock right by the nozzle kept the plastic warmer for longer and helped smooth the flat surfaces. It's hard to fan-cool the extruded plastic for that reason though, but that really only matters for small towers. I did have a piece of oval-shaped PLA wedge itself into the hotend beyond my ability to remove it, so keep that in mind.
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Jun 17, 2013 14:42
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Alright, well I'm getting pretty close with the hot-end that I have. Adding the fan seems to have made the jamming issue a lot better. I just did a 3 hour print without any jams. Three new issues popped up though: There seems to be an occasional inter-layer adhesion issue:  I'm guessing the extruder temperature needs to be turned up? There's also a corning warping issue (PLA) and bridging isn't working great. The extruder seems to be pulling the bridged portion of the filament off of the part.  Finally, the model that I'm trying to print (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379) doesn't seem to get along with Slic3r. There's supposed to be a bridge under the idler fulcrum, but when I look at the layers in Pronterface it's completely missing. I didn't notice that until the idler fulcrum came out all screwed up (2nd picture, near the bottom) *Edit* I've fixed this problem by making the bridge a bit thicker in the SCAD file (one layer thick) and by running the generated STL through http://www.netfabb.com/cloud/index.php . Doing one or the other was not enough In Conclusion: Hotter Bed, Hotter Extruder? Opinions? DBlue135 fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Jun 17, 2013 |
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Jun 17, 2013 22:26
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DBlue135 posted:
I had to run the .scad again to re-generate the .stl for slic3r to play nice with this model. I had the same problems as you did, plus mine didn't print one of the screw holes. I added 3% to the screw hole sizes in the .scad to account for shrinkage instead of adding 3% to the whole model, and the print came out much nicer for some reason.
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Jun 17, 2013 23:24
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DBlue135 posted:Hotter Bed, Hotter Extruder? Opinions? I had similar issues. I'd definitely try upping your temperature by 5-10 degrees. Maybe try increasing the filament feed rate too.
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Jun 18, 2013 10:30
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TechCrunch reported it as a rumour a while ago, but it actually came true today: http://techcrunch.com/2013/06/19/stratasys-acquiring-makerbot-combined-company-will-likely-dominate-3d-printing-industry/ One bit in the article that I didn't know - MakerBot has sold over 22,000 units so far. I'm guessing that that's going to grow by a lot.
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Jun 19, 2013 22:17
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techknight posted:TechCrunch reported it as a rumour a while ago, but it actually came true today: http://techcrunch.com/2013/06/19/stratasys-acquiring-makerbot-combined-company-will-likely-dominate-3d-printing-industry/ Well if anyone was on the fence about whether Makerbot sold out or not, here's their evidence. Stratasys is one of the "big evils" of the 3D printer world.
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Jun 19, 2013 23:00
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I feel like there are so many other options now that it hardly matters.
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Jun 19, 2013 23:22
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Tres Burritos posted:I feel like there are so many other options now that it hardly matters. Hopefully. The hobbyist printer community generally gets along pretty well. There are lots of printers, lots of little niches and almost no fighting between. Just good, honest competition. But the thing is, Stratasys is a big company, Stratasys doesn't mind suing folks and they are now letting themselves into a hobbyist market with lots of small shops and it suddenly feels like it's not going to be a fair fight anymore. Sure, business is business and folks may continue to say that even when Stratasys starts using aggressive business strategies to gently caress with the little guys. I can't help but feel that they're going to sap all of the fun out of what was a nice little niche community.
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Jun 19, 2013 23:41
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Tres Burritos posted:I feel like there are so many other options now that it hardly matters. There's also thingiverse to consider, which much more of a hub than any of it's competitors.
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Jun 20, 2013 05:29
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Aurium posted:There's also thingiverse to consider, which much more of a hub than any of it's competitors. Goddamn, this doesn't mean DEFCAD is going to be our saviors  I was perfectly fine with Bre's goofy, hipster glasses being the face of 3D printing. I'd rather not have it replaced with some slightly-off-kilter Texas law student. Young Freud fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Jun 20, 2013 |
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Jun 20, 2013 05:34
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Cockmaster posted:This is interesting. Someone is developing a 3D printer to be the household appliance that was originally envisioned, intending to make it usable by people with no substantial technical skill: So has anybody donated money to this? It looks like if you give a certain amount you are basically buying a unit (and a cartridge). I...just...might... Just a shadow of doubt that it might fall through and they'll never be able to deliver the unit due to lack of production. What do you think?
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Jun 20, 2013 22:49
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Sum the Glad posted:So has anybody donated money to this? It looks like if you give a certain amount you are basically buying a unit (and a cartridge). I...just...might... Just a shadow of doubt that it might fall through and they'll never be able to deliver the unit due to lack of production. What do you think? I hopped on the bandwagon. Most physical items kickstarters are 'pre-buy my product so that I can do a production run'
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Jun 21, 2013 05:38
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Are there any places that sell small amounts of PLA filament, like half a pound or so? Maybe in variety packs of different colors? I need some blue filament to print a couple of TARDISes for my sister, but I've got so much filament sitting around in a variety of other colors that I'm already worried about using it all up before it absorbs too much moisture. It'd be super cool if there was a store where you could go and roll it off a giant reel onto your own spools and just pay by the foot. Maybe in ten years or so. A man can dream...
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Jun 22, 2013 00:10
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Sagebrush posted:Are there any places that sell small amounts of PLA filament, like half a pound or so? Maybe in variety packs of different colors? I need some blue filament to print a couple of TARDISes for my sister, but I've got so much filament sitting around in a variety of other colors that I'm already worried about using it all up before it absorbs too much moisture. Just store it in a large ziplock bag with a dessicant pack. Problem solved.
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Jun 22, 2013 00:33
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