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color is neat sometimes Divots by atomicthumbs, on Flickr  Confined Space Hazard by atomicthumbs, on Flickr  This Dam Holds Strong Against The Pressure of Ten Million, Nine Hundred Sixty Eight Thousand Cubic Meters of Water by atomicthumbs, on Flickr  Juncture Point by atomicthumbs, on Flickr  A Bird Rests On The Outlet Platforms For The Downstream Pumps by atomicthumbs, on Flickr  No Fishing by atomicthumbs, on Flickr atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 06:27
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Agreed. Zorki-10 and Portra 400:  
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Jun 13, 2013 06:49
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Colour is neat.  visit. 
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Jun 13, 2013 13:25
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Nice one. Here's an experiment with Foma. Shot at 400, developed at 1600. Rollei 35 SE.  Rovine Estensi di maxmars70, su Flickr
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Jun 13, 2013 13:41
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 Kodak to end acetate base production.
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Jun 13, 2013 20:52
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No need to fear, plenty of places to buy acetate from. Anyone looking to buy a pentax 67, btw?
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Jun 13, 2013 21:00
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 A Man and his Dogs by atomicthumbs, on Flickr  Couple by atomicthumbs, on Flickr  On a Walk by atomicthumbs, on Flickr
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Jun 13, 2013 22:30
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Mr. Despair posted:Anyone looking to buy a pentax 67, btw? Why not use it as a carrying case for your ME?
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Jun 13, 2013 22:54
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Portra 400 uses the Estar base which is polyester not acetate.
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Jun 13, 2013 22:58
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Mr. Despair posted:Anyone looking to buy a pentax 67, btw? Just looking for the body, is it part of a kit?
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Jun 13, 2013 23:22
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Just looking for the body, is it part of a kit? If I did sell/trade away my p67 stuff I'd want to get rid of it as a kit (body with no aperture chain, 75mm lens, wlf and normal viewfinder).
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Jun 13, 2013 23:30
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Hey Pompous Rhombus, are you still thinking of selling the Gowland?
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Jun 13, 2013 23:39
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Spedman posted:Hey Pompous Rhombus, are you still thinking of selling the Gowland? It's definitely going to be for sale soon, just been really busy/tired lately (fortunately exams are starting next week, so I should have a lot of time [not being a real teacher  ]). I thought I'd taken the pictures already but checking the folder apparently not. Paul Mauddib has first dibs but I'll let you know if he decides to pass! It'll get posted in the Buy/Sell thread regardless, just so everything's on the up and up.
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Jun 14, 2013 00:51
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Pompous Rhombus posted:It's definitely going to be for sale soon, just been really busy/tired lately (fortunately exams are starting next week, so I should have a lot of time [not being a real teacher Nobody's breaking any rules or anything and I understand why you'd be talking about it in the film thread but at this point you should probably take it to the buy/sell (as you mentioned).
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Jun 14, 2013 01:09
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No worries! Put me second in line behind Paul then and I'll keep an eye on the buy/sell thread.
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Jun 14, 2013 01:14
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Ok people, I need help with the new ektar emulsion. Everything is blue in the ektar world. I was initially thinking that it might have been bad exposures on my part, but through multiple rolls I have tried I get same result. After digitizing I get horrible blue/cyan casts that are very difficult to get rid of. Pro400H, portra... no problems. Ektar... pure poo poo. And I know that this film can produce some amazing results. So does anyone know of some tips that could help me out? Getting levels right, and selecting white point on the leader get me only so far - and I usually have to resort to the HSL panel to get things looking vaguely normal.
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Jun 14, 2013 07:00
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Putrid Grin posted:Ok people, I need help with the new ektar emulsion. Everything is blue in the ektar world. I was initially thinking that it might have been bad exposures on my part, but through multiple rolls I have tried I get same result. After digitizing I get horrible blue/cyan casts that are very difficult to get rid of. Pro400H, portra... no problems. Ektar... pure poo poo. And I know that this film can produce some amazing results. So does anyone know of some tips that could help me out? Getting levels right, and selecting white point on the leader get me only so far - and I usually have to resort to the HSL panel to get things looking vaguely normal. I don't know about your scanning workflow, but I recently re-tried Ektar 100 in medium format, and found it lovely for oceans, earth tones and the likes. It does have a subtle shift towards cool colors here, too. But as I stated it is pretty subtle. Are you inverting the negatives / subtracting the base coloration yourself? Using a program to do it? That said, are you sure your camera is exposing it right? Ektar loves and more so needs lots and lots of light. If you underexpose it it gets all sorts of weird with color shifts and explosive saturation. I find it weird that you mention Pro 400H as being neutral, that film comes out with quite a green-cast for me. Both films (400H, Portra) however, have a very large to large latitude, which Ektar does not, so they could be hiding some underlying issues with your metering or camera.
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Jun 14, 2013 08:13
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This topic is probably buried in this thread somewhere, but with 290 pages, I wasn't able to find it very easily. I'm looking into developing at home, and was interested in stand developing/semi-stand. I have processed my own film before, but never used this method. I know there are at least a few of you who stand develop, so I was just wondering about your general technique. Do you still expose your film for the shadows? What's your developer/dilution of choice, and how long do you typically leave it? I've seen a lot of different variations on this, and wanted to see how it's done around here. Right now, I think I'm leaning towards Rodinal, 1:100 for about an hour with 30 secs initial constant agitation, and one inversion at 20 mins and 40 mins (I've read that bromide drag is more likely to happen when the developer sits for 20 mins+ with no agitation). Hopefully your feedback will be helpful to others as well.
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Jun 14, 2013 23:20
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Just let it sit, I've yet to encounter bromide drag with rodinal stand.
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Jun 14, 2013 23:23
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Rodinal is the well-known developer for stand development. Kodak HC-110 and Ilfotec HC work just as well, and are also diluted 1+100 for the general 1 hour recipe. Stand development works with these developers because bromide drag is not an issue with them. If you perform any kind agitation during a stand development you're rather doing semi-stand and not proper stand. Agitation during is an easy way of pushing a stop or two extra without increasing the development time beyond 1 hour. Agitate for the extra film speed, not because you think you would get bromide drag. As for exposure, shoot however you want. Stand development does give you less contrast overall, so with modern emulsions you can easily expose for +/- 1 stop on a single roll and still get excellent negatives. Seriously just do it, it's even harder to gently caress up than a regular b/w development.
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Jun 14, 2013 23:29
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Thanks, based on your input I guess I'll just dive right in and see what happens! I'm pretty excited.
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Jun 14, 2013 23:35
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Hey film guys who have the time and motivation to haul around cameras bigger than an ME Super, go buy my p67 or something in the buy/sell thread.
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Jun 15, 2013 04:27
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Fomapan is a soft, soft emulsion. 
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Jun 15, 2013 06:44
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Chocolate Cocaine posted:Stand development chat
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Jun 15, 2013 07:10
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dukeku posted:Fomapan is a soft, soft emulsion. Owns owns owns.
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Jun 15, 2013 08:37
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Gotta be careful when the Foma is all soft and wet. Have some more stuff I shot, it looks better big. 
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Jun 15, 2013 12:03
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Bobsledboy posted:Just one thing to add to this. If you're going to stand dev 35mm rolls make sure you're giving the tank a few good hard taps on the bench. You don't want to get a nasty underdeveloped spot because of air bubbles catching the sprocket holes and sitting there for an hour. So it's the sprocket holes that would cause this? Meaning 120 film isn't susceptible?
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Jun 15, 2013 15:13
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Finally got around to using the Epson V700 to scan a massive backlog of film.
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Jun 15, 2013 20:53
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 Update: Shamefully small film drawer.
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Jun 16, 2013 21:59
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My other crisper is a fannypack. edit: vvv  vvv
burzum karaoke fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jun 16, 2013 |
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Jun 16, 2013 22:22
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aliencowboy posted:My other crisper is a fannypack. 
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Jun 16, 2013 22:36
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 The box of 160nc is half filled with shanghai gp3 
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Jun 16, 2013 23:27
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The key to cheap film shooting is to buy fuckloads of it when you see it cheap.
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Jun 17, 2013 00:41
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Paul MaudDib posted:The key to cheap film shooting is to buy fuckloads of it when you see it cheap. Yeah, pretty much this. eBay sometimes is good, even for not expired film. Also for Amazon I use CamelCamelCamel to alert me via mail whenever one of my favorite films (say Portra) drops below a preset price threshold. Then I go and buy as much as I can; very handy.
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Jun 17, 2013 02:39
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Chocolate Cocaine posted:So it's the sprocket holes that would cause this? Meaning 120 film isn't susceptible? You can still get air bubble stuck to the edges or reels but its much less likely to ruin your negs.
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Jun 17, 2013 03:34
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Just wanted to show how good Portra 400 can be, this shot was underexposed by +3 stops, thought I'd got a whole bunch of deep shadows on Mel Brooks and his granddaughter but ended up with a reasonably exposed shot:
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Jun 17, 2013 12:31
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I have a question for you fine gentlemen and ladies. I've recently bought a Sigma 35mm f1.4 lens for Canon mounts, and I've needed to slightly adjust the MFA on my digital cameras for it to focus correctly. I've wondered if there's a way to do this on film cameras. I'd like to try this lens out on some Ektar film, and would like to try using it wide open a lot. I have a Canon EOS 30V camera.
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Jun 17, 2013 14:13
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Maverique posted:I have a question for you fine gentlemen and ladies. I've recently bought a Sigma 35mm f1.4 lens for Canon mounts, and I've needed to slightly adjust the MFA on my digital cameras for it to focus correctly. I've wondered if there's a way to do this on film cameras. I'd like to try this lens out on some Ektar film, and would like to try using it wide open a lot. I have a Canon EOS 30V camera. I think the new Sigma USB dock will let you manage this.
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Jun 17, 2013 14:15
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Spedman posted:Just wanted to show how good Portra 400 can be, this shot was underexposed by +3 stops, thought I'd got a whole bunch of deep shadows on Mel Brooks and his granddaughter but ended up with a reasonably exposed shot: Impressive but why on earth did you shoot this @ 3200 ISO?
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Jun 17, 2013 16:35
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The Rollei (Sonnar) and Kentmere 400 (@800) can put out some really sharp pictures. Cracks / 1 di maxmars70, su Flickr
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Jun 17, 2013 16:37
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