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fps_bill posted:Kastein please talk me out of putting a stroker motor together for my daily driver XJ and into finding a 97+ s10 to put the 99 350 vortec I already have into. ok, put an AMC 401 in it instead... it'll bolt to any tranny that goes behind a 4.0  Or grab yourself the manual tranny out of a 3.9/5speed Dakota, a 5.9 out of a ZJ/Dodge truck, make some motor mounts, and put those in.
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Jun 15, 2013 04:16
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Got the new wheels mounted up today!! What a huge difference!  Make them look a bit wider too  Not bad for $50 for all 4!
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Jun 15, 2013 14:17
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Veeb0rg posted:Assuming you've checked fuses, it sounds like the BCM died. So I disconnected the battery, nled the power and everything works again. Random electronic fart or something going wrong? Going to be an interesting few weeks! Mostly unrelated, but I'm looking to do a small lift, spacers from Fat Bobs probably, along with Bilstein shocks and at least a rear sway bar. It's my daily driver, so it's not going to be trail thrashed until I pay it off, and I'm looking to improve the on road handling. Problem is, I'm seeing options for Addco bars with and without previous sway bars. Should that matter? I'm hopefully getting my Magnaflow on within the next week or so too. Are wheel spacers on stock Rogues silly, because I'd like a wider track. Speaking of my wheels. I've..been considering Plasti-dipping them, as I'm not a huge chrome fan to begin with, and with the corrosion and flaking, they look assy. I'm not wanting a street look or a poser off roader look, just want to raise the rise height a bit and level out the rake it's got. Is this a good way to make me look like a douche? 
gileadexile fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Jun 15, 2013 |
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Jun 15, 2013 17:37
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mattfl posted:Got the new wheels mounted up today!! What a huge difference! What tires are those and what size ? I don't recognize them.
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Jun 15, 2013 17:45
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jonathan posted:What tires are those and what size ? I don't recognize them. 35" nitto trail grapplers. Love them.
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Jun 15, 2013 18:11
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I think I'm going to paint my front clip black like you have done. Also going to do the door hinges black with truck bed liner. The contrasting black against my white looks good.
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Jun 15, 2013 18:25
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jonathan posted:I think I'm going to paint my front clip black like you have done. Also going to do the door hinges black with truck bed liner. The contrasting black against my white looks good. My front is bedliner as well. I recommend trying plasti dip for the door hinges in case you don't like it.
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Jun 15, 2013 18:46
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gileadexile posted:
I painted my stock rims and later my ford rims black because I didn't care for the dirty nickel look. I would say that neither of the times it looked douch-y. Flat or gloss black should look fine.
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Jun 15, 2013 19:11
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'Sup guys, I recently bought a new Rubicon! It's a manual transmission which has my wife rolling her eyes. Took it out mallcrawlin' yesterday, no big deal. 
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Jun 15, 2013 22:02
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Rasczak posted:
Yeah, I did a bit of urban wheeling myself today.  ^Here's one of the obstacles in the course. I wasn't sure if I'd make it so I threw it in 4hi to engage my front locker and had a go of it. In case you're wondering, I was not alone. I had a few other drivers to back me up and spares in case I broke something.
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Jun 16, 2013 01:16
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90% done on my lift. Still need to adjust Toe and straighten the steering wheel and weld on end caps for the Rubi rails. Instead of pictures I'll post a video where, for a brief moment, the Jeep was a cartoon. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aisPGdLW6Yw 
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Jun 16, 2013 07:12
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Been a while since I posted in the Jeep thread since selling my 79 CJ, but I put my money down on a 2014 today. I got a base sport with connectivity group in Anvil, a holdover color from the Rubi X. I followed the pricing guide on Wrangler Forum to get 1% under invoice, with getting the base I can go on Craig's list and find some Rubi take offs for less than the upgrade cost. Its crazy to think this one has more power than my old 304 and twice as many gears. Now for a long six week wait for it to be delivered (or longer), but still in the first order block. Can't wait for LED lit cup holders (yeah I know they're gay).
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Jun 17, 2013 03:45
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giundy posted:Been a while since I posted in the Jeep thread since selling my 79 CJ, but I put my money down on a 2014 today. I got a base sport with connectivity group in Anvil, a holdover color from the Rubi X. I followed the pricing guide on Wrangler Forum to get 1% under invoice, with getting the base I can go on Craig's list and find some Rubi take offs for less than the upgrade cost. Its crazy to think this one has more power than my old 304 and twice as many gears. Now for a long six week wait for it to be delivered (or longer), but still in the first order block. Anvil is pretty sweet. My friend who ordered the 10th anniversary is kinda peeved it wasn't a one off color and now readily available. He is happy that people are paying outrageous prices for the bumpers and wheels though as he plans on selling them off right away. He's looking at $1000 PER bumper and about $1500 for the set of just wheels.
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Jun 17, 2013 12:23
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So I'm pretty tired of having to make mix-CD's when I drive my 2003 TJ due to the old stock stereo set. I was going to get it replaced and then buy a GPS but then I started seeing these DVD units and I quite like the look of the stereo & the GPS being in the same compartment. I'd love to get something that accepts AUX connections so I can wire up my phone. Can any of you recommend a particular brand/device? So far I've only been able to find stuff that fits TJ's on eBay, and they are all from weird Chinese vendors. I'm looking for something like the following: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-DVD-...6e92e4bc&_uhb=1 I mean, it looks like it would fit, just thought I'd ask here first to see if anyone else has upgraded the stereo on their TJ.
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Jun 17, 2013 12:52
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Crutchfield.com shows the TJ as having a non-standard opening:Crutchfield.com posted:
So you could put a single-DIN receiver in with an adapter, but I don't think too many GPS solutions fit in that, unless they have a fancy slide-out screen. I've seen at least one like that though, but it's probably going to cost more.
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Jun 17, 2013 16:11
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Dear Jeep friends. I've been here a long time and drooling over the Wrangler for even longer. I was on the verge of buying a new Wrangler Unlimited last year, but an expensive move kind of put that on hold. It still kind of itches, cause Jeeps are kinda really cool to us Eurotrash. So I got a pouch of savings and was looking at the circa 2004 Jeep Liberty. Most are on sale for around 5K with 50.000 miles on them, in otherwise good condition. With either the 3.7L or the 2.8CRD (which I figure isn't around in the US?). I kinda really like it, and before I do something stupid and buy one, I wanted to ask if anyone in here has driven them and what potential pitfalls are with them. So any advice is appreciated!
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Jun 17, 2013 17:53
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I'm not a fan of the liberty body/chassis, but that's somewhat personal opinion... Stay away from the 3.7, they're from the same family as the 4.7 which has known issues with oiling, valvetrain/rocker problems if the oil hasn't been changed religiously, valve seats dropping if even mildly overheated, etc. The 2.8 on the other hand is awesome. We only got a few thousand of them here in the states IIRC, they sold very quickly and then Chrysler dumped the idea. I'd love to get my hands on a donor vehicle with one in it.
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Jun 17, 2013 18:04
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Saintfuzzled posted:Dear Jeep friends. I've been here a long time and drooling over the Wrangler for even longer. I was on the verge of buying a new Wrangler Unlimited last year, but an expensive move kind of put that on hold. It still kind of itches, cause Jeeps are kinda really cool to us Eurotrash. If you've got the Wrangler itch, don't get a Liberty.
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Jun 17, 2013 18:27
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So I just got back from a kickin' rad vacay on Kauai. We rented a 2012 JKU for the week and here are my thoughts: -The baseline Sport JKU with no options is a barren piece of poo poo. How they expect to have 4 doors and no power door locks or any way to unlock the back doors without having the reach through the front doors boggles the mind -The JKU is too long and a bear to manuever. That said, the extra room behind the back seat is pretty nice. -Fill the backseat with passengers and it's impossible to see behind you -Stock tires (you know, those crappy baseline road tires) can be pushed to do more than they were designed for under the control of a capable driver. Watch those sidewalls tho! Also, Kauai mud could be used as grease. -I kinda likes the Orange Crush paint, but will keep my all black Rubi. -If you're renting a JKU on the islands, don't assume they are all soft tops - the opposite is the truth. No fun rolling around the tropics with just the T-tops off  I was always curious how the JKUs were to drive, but after a week of that JKU, I was more than happy to come home to my JK Rubi. I'm so spoiled. 2 Door for life! Bonus pic: our rental driving through the Jurassic Park gate: 
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Jun 17, 2013 23:22
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So I got all of the lift and wheels on fine now. There's a wheel wobble at 40mph which I'm 90% certain is a unbalanced wheels problem, I hope. (ive double checked everything is torqued underneath). I ordered the wheels mounted & balanced, but 2 of the 37s dont even have any weight on them at all, so I'm skeptical. Here's a terrible pic of it so far, and one semi incomplete:   I've just ordered the Artec D44 armor kit (truss, C-gussets, skids), synergy ball joints and Reid racing knuckles and I'm currently figuring out how I can get time to rip out the axle, sent it to the welder, paint & reinstall it. Hopefully I can get it all done in time for a trip to Big Bear to put it through its paces. tuna fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jun 18, 2013 |
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Jun 18, 2013 04:32
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tuna posted:So I got all of the lift and wheels on fine now. There's a wheel wobble at 40mph which I'm 90% certain is a unbalanced wheels problem, I hope. (ive double checked everything is torqued underneath). I ordered the wheels mounted & balanced, but 2 of the 37s dont even have any weight on them at all, so I'm skeptical. Looks awesome man. I had developed a wobble at almost that exact speed, turns out a few of my lug nuts were torqued down, so if you haven't checked them already it's worth a shot.
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Jun 18, 2013 12:06
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Braincloud posted:So I just got back from a kickin' rad vacay on Kauai. Nice - that's actually my childhood stomping grounds. Eastside forest reserve up towards the blue hole, yes? Did you make it up to KokeŽe with that thing?
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Jun 18, 2013 15:22
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kastein posted:I'm not a fan of the liberty body/chassis, but that's somewhat personal opinion... See, knowing how people treat their cars here, that scares me. And I can get a Wrangler with the 2.8, but I'd need to drop 5K more... then again, that seems worth it  Thanks for the input guys, gonna see about snatching up a good deal on a Wrangler.
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Jun 18, 2013 19:01
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Saintfuzzled posted:And I can get a Wrangler with the 2.8 I officially hate you. Lucky!
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Jun 18, 2013 19:29
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Any idea what would be involved in taking the long roof rack rails from my 98 XJ and installing them on my 99? Should the holes already in my roof line up with the holes on the long rails? How do I get the new holes to seal? I can get my kayak on my roof now but 4 feet or so is hanging off the back. I want to move it forward but can't because the front rail sits on the raised front hatch and the rear rail sits under the rear hatch making the boat level. I'll post a picture of my dilemma this weekend.
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Jun 18, 2013 19:51
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mattfl posted:Looks awesome man. I had developed a wobble at almost that exact speed, turns out a few of my lug nuts were torqued down, so if you haven't checked them already it's worth a shot. Cheers. I've taken the wheels off several times while adjusting things so I don't think it's a wheel lug torque issue. I'll try rotating the wheels to see if there's any improvement though. I've managed to sell my take off wheels, but with all of the other take-offs like springs, shocks, etc. did you manage to sell them? I'm not sure if people buy that stuff often (besides someone in this very thread wanting to do so in a few months).
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Jun 18, 2013 20:22
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tuna posted:Cheers. I've taken the wheels off several times while adjusting things so I don't think it's a wheel lug torque issue. I'll try rotating the wheels to see if there's any improvement though. I still have my complete stock suspension setup, never even tried to sell it since it was just the base suspension system. A friend is buying my stock wheels once he gets his anniversary edition in. The plan is to take his current 37" tires/Ballistic Jester wheels and put on the Rubi, take my old stock wheels on put on his former Jeep and sell the anniversary edition rubi wheels for like $2000. I've also sold my front bumper and have a buyer for my rear once I get my new one. So ya, people out there do buy the stock stuff, just gotta find them.
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Jun 18, 2013 20:28
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Sits on Pilster posted:Nice - that's actually my childhood stomping grounds. Eastside forest reserve up towards the blue hole, yes? Did you make it up to KokeŽe with that thing? Definitely up toward the Blue Hole. I wish I'd taken a day to hike up the river to the Blue Hole but not everyone I was vacationing with would have been able to make that trek. We did drive that stock JKU all the way to the end of the road where the first irrigation split is tho. We took it up to Koke'e as well, but that was paved. I did notice the constant smell of burning brakes from other rentals (cars and jeeps) who didn't realize they would have an easier descent if they just shifted their slushbox into low gear.
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Jun 19, 2013 00:42
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Braincloud posted:We took it up to Koke'e as well, but that was paved. I did notice the constant smell of burning brakes from other rentals (cars and jeeps) who didn't realize they would have an easier descent if they just shifted their slushbox into low gear. Thats funny, we were there a few weeks ago. On the way down we actually pulled over because the smell of burning brakes was so strong I thought there was something wrong with our rental. Turns out it was the van in front of us burning up their brakes.
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Jun 19, 2013 01:17
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I've been told that you can't put a lift kit on a diesel Liberty.
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Jun 19, 2013 03:52
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Braincloud posted:Definitely up toward the Blue Hole. I wish I'd taken a day to hike up the river to the Blue Hole but not everyone I was vacationing with would have been able to make that trek. We did drive that stock JKU all the way to the end of the road where the first irrigation split is tho. KokeŽe is pretty unreal in terms of offroading opportunities. Next time you're around, pick up a map of the state park that shows the service roads and go for it. I can personally recommend the road that goes along Makaha Ridge. It's a dirt track with moderately difficult parts that shoots you out at at the top of a sheer 3000 foot cliff to the sea. Pretty amazing stuff. I have personally driven it with a 4-cyl Nissan Frontier on unspectacular A/T tires without issues, so nothing a stock JK couldn't handle with ease. That link actually mentions a "Kauai Recreational Trail Map" that, although I've never heard of it, could be pretty sweet.
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Jun 19, 2013 16:36
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You've probably all seen the video of the XJ "jumping" into a pool and then sinking and having to be cut out of the pool. gently caress that, big jeeps do it better  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0T4los1tnjk (M35A2 "deuce and a half", manufactured 1971 by Kaiser Jeep)
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Jun 19, 2013 17:03
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Does anyone (Kastein) have a list of all the fastener sizes that go onto the front and rear suspension of a 1999 XJ with an 8.25 rear? I am having trouble finding such a thing and I need to get all the nuts and bolts for an upcoming lift project.
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Jun 19, 2013 20:35
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ummm... hmmm. They're all fairly specialized and well hardened (10.9 and 12.9 class ISO fasteners) but I can get you a dimensions list fairly quickly. e: rear suspension upper shock bolts 5/16-18 grade 8, at least 1" long, w/ washers (x4) lower shock bolts - if you break these you are hosed without a welder, they are studs all 6 leaf/shackle bolts - M14x2.0 thread, 120mm long, flange head, extended lead tip, ISO property class 10.9 or 12.9 all 6 leaf/shackle bolt nuts - M14x2.0 thread, flange head, all metal staked locknut, ISO property class 10 or 12 bumpstop mounting bolts - unknown hardness, M10, I forget thread spec, they like to break, have fun swaybar bushing mount bolts - snap em off, scrap the rear swaybar U-bolts - big, size depends on axle being installed, I forget specs. 8.25 has 3" axle tubes, d35 has 2.5 or 2.625 axle tubes, you want at least an M14 or 9/16" diameter bolt stock, use grade 8 ones, parts store U-bolts blow rear end and stretch. That's about the largest that will fit through a stock U-bolt plate without egging out the holes IIRC. front suspension LCA bolts - M14x2.0 thread, 120mm long, flange head, extended lead tip, ISO property class 10.9 or 12.9 (factory bolts are same part number as the leaf spring bolts) LCA nuts - see leaf spring nuts UCA bolts - some loving retarded "flag bolt" setup that's a pain in the rear end to get a wrench on, M10 iirc, 10.9 or 12.9 hardness, unknown thread pitch, unknown length (measure, iirc like 80-100mm) - replace with flange head bolts UCA nuts - flange head, 10 or 12 hardness, match thread spec to bolts track bar bolt - this is extremely important, you may roll over and/or die if it breaks at the wrong time, M10 unknown thread, 12.9 hardness, extra tall flange head (it's torqued to a loving high spec), unknown length, try to keep unthreaded shank exactly as long as the bushing center sleeve, I like to use factory bolts for this for the obvious reason track bar nut - a total bastard flag nut that should die in a loving fire, M10 match to track bar bolt, get a flange all-metal locknut, 10 or 12 hardness swaybar hardware - I forget, but the nuts on the axle end take an 18mm wrench, the bolts are torx to fool you, they're splined studs and won't turn, just remove the nuts steering - all specialized castle nuts, use whatever is there or whatever comes with new parts, should be SAE though lower shock bolts - M8 or 5/16, grade 8 or ISO PC 10.9, use washers or flange heads and flange nuts That's about all I can remember right now. I'm probably missing a few things. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Jun 19, 2013 |
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Jun 19, 2013 21:41
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Welp, the 'welded' leaf spring nut in the frame rail of my XJ is spinning now, so I can't get the bolt out to put my shackle relocation brackets in. I'd take my bumper off, but there's a lot of difficult bolts to get to and that would be a huge pain. Would there be any problems with just cutting a small notch in the cargo area above it and using a wrench to hold it (or any other ideas?)
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Jun 19, 2013 21:47
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I don't think you can get to those from the floor, but try it if you want to. It's a retarded design.
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Jun 19, 2013 21:52
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So here's something that's happening with my 98 Cherokee Sport: if it sits for a few hours, it won't start. I'll hear a whir, all the dashboard lights will come on normally, and then fully turn the key over to nothing. Battery indication is good, I cleaned the posts and clamps just today so that rules out dirty connections. If I attempt to crank it anywhere from 5-10 times, it'll start fine. I can drive it all day long and it'll start with no issues. After a few hours of the jeep sitting, it'll go back to not starting properly. I'm thinking it's something fuel-related. The jeep did sit for awhile when it was being shipped from Alaska to Illinois if that matters any. Any help getting me into the right direction to fix this would be much appreciated.
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Jun 19, 2013 23:42
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Try wiggling the shifter (assuming automatic)... then try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If those don't work, try smacking the starter (somewhat gently) with a hammer. If loving with the shifter works, it's the NSS. If whacking the starter works, it's the starter. Those are the easy to debug/easy to fix issues, if those don't fix it, it's the starter relay, ignition switch, fuses, and/or wiring harness.
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Jun 19, 2013 23:53
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kastein posted:Try wiggling the shifter (assuming automatic)... then try starting it with the shifter in neutral. Jeep Thread: Hit it with a hammer. If it works you found the problem.
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Jun 20, 2013 00:30
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 rear seat is back in. Digital_Jesus posted:Jeep Thread: Hit it with a hammer. If it works you found the problem. Kinetic engineering is the best kind. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Jun 20, 2013 |
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Jun 20, 2013 01:21
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