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So I've got my Australian Cattle Dog pup in puppy kindergarten. She's 15 weeks old and although she's incredibly mischievous and mouthy I think we actually got a pretty chill pup considering the breed. We already have her consistently sitting and she knows her name but there are a few things I'd like to get better at with her and I was hoping someone had some good resources to read up on and ideally an order in which to teach them. She is learning lay-down with a hand command but only doing it consistently with a treat being offered. I'd love to get her to a spot where she can lay down on command even if a treat isn't in the equation. She doesn't know stay yet and although the instructor suggested that was something to not be too concerned with until they're a little bit older it's still something I'd like to start working on as soon as possible. When I feed her a meal she now knows the routine, she sits automatically when I go to get her food but the second I dump it into her bowl she's going crazy. Is it worth trying to teach her to sit/stay at this age until I give her a release command or is that a little too ambitious for her age? I'd also really like to work on getting better at come. She'll come for a treat but other than that she's far too curious to care that much about recall unless we're doing something that looks fun. This is Scout... I'll post more pics in the pet photo thread. 
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May 21, 2013 21:27
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MMD3 posted:So I've got my Australian Cattle Dog pup in puppy kindergarten. She's 15 weeks old and although she's incredibly mischievous and mouthy I think we actually got a pretty chill pup considering the breed. quote:She doesn't know stay yet and although the instructor suggested that was something to not be too concerned with until they're a little bit older it's still something I'd like to start working on as soon as possible. I think we have some Stay stuff in the OP, but if not, work on the other behaviors below first, then post back when you're ready to tackle this. It's relatively easy, but like recalls it's one of those things that has some ground rules before you start. quote:When I feed her a meal she now knows the routine, she sits automatically when I go to get her food but the second I dump it into her bowl she's going crazy. Is it worth trying to teach her to sit/stay at this age until I give her a release command or is that a little too ambitious for her age? quote:I'd also really like to work on getting better at come. She'll come for a treat but other than that she's far too curious to care that much about recall unless we're doing something that looks fun. Scroll up like four posts for recall advice. There's also some links in the OP. If you're having a specific problem, post more deets.
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May 21, 2013 21:47
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I need a lot of help with my dog. She's almost 3 years old and she is an absolute monster. My family and I have made A LOT of mistakes so far in her life, including getting her off craigslist, spoiling her, and not training her when she was a very young puppy. No point yelling at us now about it. The mistakes have been made. And now we are in trouble. Issue #1: Barking. She incessantly barks at anyone walking by the house, which gets my other dog started (who is so old she doesn't know what she's barking at). If anyone comes into the house she will bark at them until we put her in the crate and then she usually calms down but will still bark from inside. She also has recently started growling and jumping on people as they are LEAVING the house. Don't know why. Issue #2: Peeing and pooping in the house. We let her outside a million times during the day. And she does go when she's outside. The problem is when she has to go and she's inside and she doesn't scratch on the door or let anyone know, and she'll just go somewhere in the house. She knows how to scratch on the door to go outside so idk what to do about this. Issue #3: Aggression. This is why I say she's a little monster. If anyone tries to move her when she is comfortable, she will growl, bare her teeth, and sometimes snap at the person. She also does this when we try to take her for walks. She will hide in my bed and growl and get aggressive when we try to put the collar on her. My dad and I have both been bitten before. She is good at some things, like not touching her food until we tell her to, or dropping things she isn't supposed to have in her mouth. But there are so many issues now I don't know where to start. I'm even scared of her now, which I don't want to be. On the plus side, she's really cute.  help me pleaseeee
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May 23, 2013 21:02
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AnonymousNarcotics posted:Issue #1: Barking. quote:Issue #2: Peeing and pooping in the house. quote:Issue #3: Aggression. This is the most worrisome piece of the puzzle - and it likely is something that you should contact a behaviorist about. I would leave a collar on her 24/7 and stop moving her if it makes her uncomfortable. If you need her to move, call her to you and reward with a high-value treat. Train a command to hop off the bed on cue - again, use high-value treats, lure her off a few times, pair a command with the lure, then fade the lure and reinforce the behavior on a very heavy schedule. Pair leashing up with treats, using one hand to feed and the other to gently clip the collar. Your short-term management strategy is to avoid doing poo poo that sets her off and control her environment. Medium-term strategy is to teach other behaviors that act as workarounds. The long-term strategy is to talk to a behaviorist about desensitization and behavior modification techniques. Whatever you do, learn to respect her escalation signs (growling, snarling) and don't punish her for them: they are very important for you to avoid getting bitten.
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May 23, 2013 21:30
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MrFurious posted:Have her sit as she's doing now. Pick up the bowl, put the food in the bowl and then place it several feet in front of her. Make sure that you have trained a release command. If you haven't, we can help you do that. Slowly move the bowl towards the floor. If she breaks the sit, stand up, put the bowl on the counter or table, and put her back into the sit. Try not to ask for the sit by name, although you may have to the first few times you do this. The bowl does not go on the floor unless she maintains her sit the entire time until released verbally by you. Do this for every meal. This is working great so far, just started it the other day. She's still pretty crazy about her food and she isn't sitting very well after it hits the ground yet but in only a few meals of trying it I've already got her sitting at least until the food bowl is on the ground... now to increase the duration.
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May 23, 2013 22:06
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I need some help with my girlfriend's dog. He's a humper. He's not fixed, so whatever, I've had unfixed dogs before and they're going to want to hump female dogs. If I'm the one walking him I'll generally pull him off and walk away. But he also really likes humping me and my stuff. It's really annoying, honestly. Pushing him off doesn't work in these scenarios because if we're in her apartment he's just going to keep trying. I don't know if this is related, but he also pees on anything that smells like me. If I leave a shirt or something on the ground, peed on. If I bring him to my house, he basically just plays a fun game of 'pee everywhere'. He never pees in her apartment otherwise and seems to be perfectly housetrained so I don't know if he just thinks he's marking his territory or something. He's also a really big loving rear end in a top hat. I generally don't like small dogs (my grandmother had a very mean yorkie or something when I was young) and he's a yorkie/pekingese mix. But he is an absolute fucker to other male dogs, especially when they're not fixed. As soon as he sees them or smells them or whatever the gently caress he does to get his little brain so pissed off, he starts barking and pulling towards them uncontrollably. If you let him get close to them, he'll try to fight them to the best of his 20 pound ability. Thankfully he is small so people are generally not very concerned while I am carrying him away, but it's annoying behavior I don't like and I don't like exposing other dog owners to it because I feel bad. He's also a big puller while walking. This is also very annoying. He's not my dog to train, I know, but if I'm walking him most nights I'm not going to be doing it with him pulling me around. The first steps out of the door of her apartment building are the worst, where he bolts forward in order to flip himself when his leash goes taut. I've asked my girlfriend about it and she's fine with me not letting him pull, so last time I walked him I just stopped when he pulled and we sat in the courtyard of her apartment building for fifteen minutes before I said we were going back inside. He also doesn't seem to be able to pee on his own. If we put him in my backyard, he may run around a little but doesn't seem to pee. It's not until you're walking with him that he'll pee, and that's if you're lucky. Usually we have to put him on his leash and walk him around my neighborhood. This is independent of his exercise because every day I see him I take him on a 20 minute run (as far as he'll go) and then play with him in my backyard for at least another 30 minutes, in addition to the 3 20-minute trips outside he takes. What do I do? 
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May 23, 2013 22:18
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Find a new girl who owns a lab? Seriously, this is going to be really tough especially because it isn't your dog. Maybe fixing him would get him to stop pissing everywhere and humping everything. He doesn't sound very housetrained to be honest if he's peeing inside the house all the time. Why doesn't she want him fixed, is she planning on breeding him? Loose leash walking isn't hard to train but it will take time and consistency. The dog aggression will be tougher to train out but it's possible with a lot of work and time. You may need to consult an animal behaviourist. This will get you started on loose leash walking, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFgtqgiAKoQ. As for the peeing, maybe he's just trying to save some to deposit inside your house? The yappy rat thread might be able to help too, good luck.
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May 23, 2013 22:33
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:I need some help with my girlfriend's dog. As for the pulling on leash bit, next time you're taking him for a walk, bring his favorite treats with you. Lots of them. Then make sure you're holding the leash in a way that is consistent to the dog. I like to grab the leash and put my hand (partially) in my pocket. Whenever the dog gives you eye contact, praise and give him a treat. Whenever the dog pulls, stop and do whatever you need to do to keep the leash as tight as it was when he was pulling. Give slack, praise and keep going when the dog moves towards you to slacken the leash and gives you eye contact. If you do these two things consistently, you will not have problems with pulling for much longer. In training lingo, what I suggested is positively reinforcing behavior you want to see (slack leash, giving eye contact) and negatively reinforcing what you want to see (and on the other hand, positively punishing pulling on leash by maintaining the pressure until the dog slackens the leash himself and gives eye contact). For definitions for the training terms, see the OP.
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May 23, 2013 22:33
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Not hugely important, but I am curious- When I first got Beartato he was dead silent. I think it took him a few days to make any noise at all. At that point in time we had his collar on most of the time inside. He figured out that if he scratched at his collar it made a jingling noise that would get my attention. Usually when he did this he had to go outside. He doesn't usually wear his collar in the house anymore, but if he wants something often he'll scratch himself as loudly as possible while sometimes making sure that I can see him scratch himself. My question is did I condition him to scratch himself to get my attention or did he condition me to pay attention to him even without the use of a jingling noise?
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May 26, 2013 07:24
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I'm curious, how would you guys go about teaching dogs not to chase cats? A solid 'leave it,' positive interrupter, or what? The people I'm petsitting for are offering me extra cash to teach two of their dogs to quit chasing the cats. I don't know how much progress I can make on that in two weeks, though. They did only have three dogs, but they recently adopted a fourth, some freckle mutt named Reece. He and the littlest pit, Gracie, chase the cats. Gracie was doing better about not chasing them before Reece came along, but now when he chases them it excites her and she joins in. It's more of a playful chasing; the one time I saw Reece "catch" one of the cats I'm pretty sure he was trying to hump it.  The house is pretty big and they do keep the upstairs gated off so the cats have a place to escape, but it's still a tad frustrating (especially because the new cat really likes to frolic around downstairs). Any suggestions?
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May 26, 2013 15:56
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Skizzles posted:I'm curious, how would you guys go about teaching dogs not to chase cats? A solid 'leave it,' positive interrupter, or what? The people I'm petsitting for are offering me extra cash to teach two of their dogs to quit chasing the cats. I don't know how much progress I can make on that in two weeks, though. Tethering and heavily reinforcing ignoring the cat. You need to work them each individually, and manage them so that they don't have access to the cats otherwise.
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May 26, 2013 23:28
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I'd like some advice if anyone is willing to give it. My grandparents have a Chihuahua, other than lots of barking she doesn't cause too many issues. She goes to the bathroom on pads we lay out for her in the bathroom or goes outside so we don't keep her in a cage or anything like that. As long as there aren't any other dogs around she's really good at being outside leash free and wont try to run away. What i'm trying to say is other than my next concern she's a really great dog. Her problem is she really likes eating absolutely anything that could possibly fall on the ground inside our house. She doesn't do it all of the time, but when she does do it she becomes super obsessive about it and will run along the sides of the walls and turns into a vacuum cleaner picking up anything she finds on the ground. When she's doing this she stops responding when calling her name which any other time she'd come running toward you. It's not like the house is a pigsty or anything, it's kept reasonably clean. The main culprit is usually hair since that's not something you'd necessarily always notice being on the ground. My mother and two sisters are there occasionally and it's not uncommon for them to shower and whatnot there and that's usually when she gets sick. At first I thought maybe it's because they use fruit smelling shampoo/conditioner that she's eating the hair but really it's just anything she can find on the ground when she goes into vacuum mode. When she does this she either vomits everything back up or ends up being constipated. She eats her regular food that she's been eating for years and really likes these beef stick snacks that we give her once a day so it's not like shes running around starving. I thought maybe this was a sign she wasn't getting all the nutrition she needs so I bought some food made with actual meat/veg that wasn't made of mostly corn but she wouldn't eat it. My sisters and mom have been told several times to be careful when brushing their hair but they don't listen. Aside from obsessively vacuuming the house i'm at a loss as how to help. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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May 28, 2013 15:04
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That's a very typically Chihuahua behaviour, unfortunately. Mine is obsessed with scavenging the floors, especially recently after she's eaten or people food has been prepared. I approached it with some basic training of "leave it", and a startling interrupter/punisher when she starts scrounging. I would clap and state relatively loudly "no scavenging" and, my Chihuahua being the sensitive sort, would startle and turn to me. I'd then send her to one of her beds to get her out of the way and further interrupt the behaviour. Now that she's learned the term, a quiet "no scavenging" will stop the behaviour. However, she still defaults to scrounging when she thinks no one is looking since she's been self-reinforcing the behaviour for 7 years before she came to live with me. So you need to be vigilant and preemptively manage the behaviour by keeping potential edible-inedibles cleaned up and put away.
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May 28, 2013 17:53
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Scavenging is also a drive behavior, which means you cannot shut it off. If the dog is not allowed to have an acceptable outlet for that behavior, anxiety will begin to build. A good acceptable outlet would be a treat-dispensing toy or puzzle game that lets him act out the scavenging behavior but without the destructive part you want to avoid.
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May 28, 2013 21:33
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Thanks for the advice! I really appreciate it. I think i'll try both suggestions.ButWhatIf posted:Scavenging is also a drive behavior, which means you cannot shut it off. If the dog is not allowed to have an acceptable outlet for that behavior, anxiety will begin to build. A good acceptable outlet would be a treat-dispensing toy or puzzle game that lets him act out the scavenging behavior but without the destructive part you want to avoid. I was actually considering this, but was kind of worried it could potentially make it worse. We got her a toy meant for this, so instead of just giving the treat directly we'll give the toy a try. katkillad2 fucked around with this message at 17:25 on May 29, 2013 |
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May 29, 2013 17:22
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This might be an activity your Chi would enjoy in place of scavenging. If your dog's a fabric eater you could just use big cookies instead.
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May 30, 2013 14:52
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Direwolf posted:Thanks, I really appreciate it, I'll let you know how it goes! Alright so it doesn't look like it went too well. We socialized theodgs with the leash, and then outside in the yard, and then slowly inside - they had flareups but calmed down when we intervened, and my dog has learned to do more avoiding than confronting (though she's still uncomfortable when they sniff her, which they do from time to time). Then, this evening, out of nowhere, she and the smaller lab started barking at each other and growling, and before I could do anything the smaller lab actually bit her, several times. She's physically fine but shaken, and it feels like all the progress was more progressing to a break point rather than a positive development, and I don't know what to do other than to move back into the basement. Smaller lab has no history of biting that I'm aware. Is this salvageable?
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Jun 1, 2013 02:45
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Dogdoo 8 posted:Not hugely important, but I am curious- I accidentally gave Dex the idea that if he really has to potty at night, he should suddenly jump up and try to jump up on my computer chair, steal anything in reach, nibble cloth like mad etc. ANYTHING to get me to yell at him and then angrily take him potty. I wish he would scratch at the door like a normal dog. I got him a bell to put on the door and we are working on it now 
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Jun 1, 2013 04:49
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Direwolf posted:Alright so it doesn't look like it went too well. We socialized theodgs with the leash, and then outside in the yard, and then slowly inside - they had flareups but calmed down when we intervened, and my dog has learned to do more avoiding than confronting (though she's still uncomfortable when they sniff her, which they do from time to time). Then, this evening, out of nowhere, she and the smaller lab started barking at each other and growling, and before I could do anything the smaller lab actually bit her, several times. She's physically fine but shaken, and it feels like all the progress was more progressing to a break point rather than a positive development, and I don't know what to do other than to move back into the basement. Smaller lab has no history of biting that I'm aware. You're moving way too fast, and losing control of the situation. If they're having flareups they haven't learned to ignore the other dog completely and shouldn't be allowed anywhere near sniffing range. Even in the long run, the behavior you want is for them to avoid each other so there should never be sniffing or even coming within 3 feet of each other. Rewind with the training, keep sessions with the smaller lab and your dog to maybe 2 15-minute sessions per day with lots of treats and keep them completely apart otherwise.
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Jun 1, 2013 05:54
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My dog had her first obedience class today and did very well! She didn't like having puppies up in her face, but got along fine with older dogs and other people. Most of it was on clicker training and basically reiterated the OP. Thanks for making me look smart today PI! The trainer basically left me alone to help owners get used to using a clicker properly and we worked on a few commands and getting Lucy used to being around lots of other dogs. I wanted to take her to the dog park soon, but I'm going to wait until she's more comfortable around a group of dogs.
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Jun 1, 2013 21:08
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I just got a puppy who is about 1 year and 2 months old. He doesn't listen to me very well outside of the house and I'd like to get Control Unleashed, the problem is I'm not sure which book I should get "Control Unleashed: Creating a Focused and Confident Dog" or "Control Unleashed: The Puppy Program". Can anyone give me some insight and advice as to which book to get?
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Jun 4, 2013 05:59
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SuperNuts posted:I just got a puppy who is about 1 year and 2 months old. He doesn't listen to me very well outside of the house and I'd like to get Control Unleashed, the problem is I'm not sure which book I should get "Control Unleashed: Creating a Focused and Confident Dog" or "Control Unleashed: The Puppy Program". Can anyone give me some insight and advice as to which book to get?
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Jun 4, 2013 11:19
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Speaking of which, has anyone here taken a Control Unleashed class? One's starting up in my area soon and I've been thinking about taking it but I'm not sure how useful it'll be for Vecna.
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Jun 4, 2013 15:14
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Triangulum posted:Speaking of which, has anyone here taken a Control Unleashed class? One's starting up in my area soon and I've been thinking about taking it but I'm not sure how useful it'll be for Vecna. It will depend on you and the instructor. The better the instructor the more you'll get out of it. I always say that I can take a beginner family dog type class with Cohen and still get something out of it: faster responses, cleaner behaviours, etc. There's always room for improvement.
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Jun 4, 2013 15:17
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Yeah I get that but I was wondering more about what the classes consist of. We're already taking three classes a week and if I'm gonna add another to that I'd prefer to take one that has a lot of utility for us. Otherwise I could just do more sports 
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Jun 4, 2013 15:25
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Triangulum posted:Yeah I get that but I was wondering more about what the classes consist of. We're already taking three classes a week and if I'm gonna add another to that I'd prefer to take one that has a lot of utility for us. Otherwise I could just do more sports I've gone through a CU class with both of my dogs - going into CU2 with my crazydog starting in a couple of weeks. We spent the bulk of the class doing 'box work'. We use a ton of ex-pens to create an amoeba-shape in the center of the room, then work on getting each dog to focus on the handler rather than everyone else. You eventually drop the leash, take leash off, start getting toys, people, other dogs playing, tons of distractions around the edges of the 'box'. If that's still solid, the ex-pens start moving apart so there are gaps. The goal is to eventually take down all the barriers. There's also some other barrier work later in the class - parallel walking and restrained recalls next to a fence (facing same way, facing opposite direction, then creating more gaps in the fence). The rest of the class is spent on other exercises in the book - working on a solid send to crate, look at that, settling on a mat, distance stays, 'gimme a break' game. We also do a bit of agility foundation, shaping a jump. I highly recommend the class for box work alone - it made a huge difference in handler focus for both my anxious beginner dog and my distractable terrier. A lot of the other exercises are easy to do at home or on your own, but the ones that use a ton of fences and other dogs are hard to replicate safely.
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Jun 4, 2013 17:58
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That sounds like an ideal group class for Vecna, thank you!
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Jun 4, 2013 18:23
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Lola has a new quirk. If we are on a walk, Lola plays fetch. It is permissible (to Lola) if Kalli has treats whilst Lola plays fetch. It is also permissible if Kalli plays fetch, as long as Kalli doesn't get treats for it. If Kalli gets treats for returning the ball (which... she kind of needs at the moment), that is Not Okay, even if Lola gets the same--or better!--treats. Fetch time is not food time. Lola will start wiggling at me, refusing to get her ball and cringing like I am going to beat her. All because there is Food During Fetch. help 
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Jun 14, 2013 19:17
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Fraction posted:Lola has a new quirk. I would probably try having separate fetch times for the two of them for a while. So Kalli Fetch time is Lola Downstay time. Does Lola have a problem with Kalli running around like crazy otherwise? Are you only using one ball?
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Jun 15, 2013 21:08
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Nope, two balls and Kalli never tries to take Lola's. To add to the mix: if the dogs are in the back yard, we can play fetch (and Kalli can have treats) and that is okay. So it's just on walks that it is a terrible, terrible thing. I might try separate times in that when Kalli is fetching, Lola takes a fetch break. There's no way she'd hold a down-stay when the puppy is playing fetch! and getting treats!! for it. She'll probably get jealous and then want to play ball again.
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Jun 15, 2013 21:13
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Fraction posted:I might try separate times in that when Kalli is fetching, Lola takes a fetch break. There's no way she'd hold a down-stay when the puppy is playing fetch! and getting treats!! for it. She'll probably get jealous and then want to play ball again. You'd definitely have to work up to it. Even if you don't want to work her up to a downstay, I would try working up to long throws, assuming you typically throw it a long way. This might help Kalli too. Throw the ball like two feet in front of you and let Kalli get it and meanwhile, throw treats at Lola before she has a chance to register that Kalli is even fetching anything. Psyche is so dumb about fetch, I had to teach her to do it by throwing the ball like right in front of me, then a foot away, then two...lol. She's still bad at it. I'll post a video in RN.
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Jun 15, 2013 21:33
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Lola has apparently decided that fetch with Kalli with food is now okay.  It could be combined with the fact that Kalli has turned on to the ball, and now needs a loooot less treats, but we had fetch walks twice yesterday with no problem.Dogs.
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Jun 17, 2013 07:54
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So I currently walk a boston terrier 3 times a week for 30 minutes and she has been having problems lately with walking on leash. She's tends to pull and whenever she does I stop in place and not pay attention to her until she gives some slack on the leash. My only problem with this method is I only have 30 minutes to walk her and I end up going 20-25 minutes over because she will stay in place or plop her butt down on the ground and sit there with her boston happy lookin panting face. If I move in any direction she will not budge unless it's in the direction towards the field or to the dog park. Sometimes while walking she will suddenly stop. Not sure if she feels apprehensive about something or is just trying to be a dick. It's also possible that she might be getting too overheated or the cement is too hot since it's gotten warmer here (Pac NW 70-75 degrees outside) so we try to stay in shady areas as much as possible, but even then she will enact the same behaviors. She's food motivated and I've attempted to use the methods shown in the leash walking video posted on here but she will only walk a few steps and stand stationary again. It's kind of driving me nuts because it's hard to keep her walk training consistent so I am going to work with her owner to see what other activities we can do. I find her not to be much of a walker but more of a "play with other dogs"/ "play fetch with sticks/balls" type of dog. Activity wise she usually gets two 30 minute walks a day and an occasional trip to the dog park maybe 2-3 times a week. All the other dogs I walk are really easy, but she is quite stubborn about it. She's very sweet, loves people, loves dogs, is virtually silent besides snorts, but can be a pain on leash. What can I do to make our walks smoother? The pup in question. 
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Jun 17, 2013 23:27
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Baika posted:What can I do to make our walks smoother? Honestly, if you only see her a few times a week and your priority is exercise, get her owner to get a harness for her - either a no-pull like the sensation or a normal one. Then let her pull or let the harness spin her around. If she's on a harness the permissiveness won't necessarily bleed into leash walking on a flat collar.
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Jun 18, 2013 06:28
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I have a few questions regarding electric fences. We have a 4 foot chain link fence and my dog has learned to climb it. What she does is put her top paws on it and then use her rear legs to climb over. At first she only did it when we were gone which was easy to solve by crating her, but now she will randomly climb it when we are home so it is no longer acceptable. She will just go out the dog door then go party in the neighbor's yard. We can't close the dog door because my brother's dog pees the house anytime he can't access it (probably due to age). Also, it sucks having to crate her all day because she doesn't like it and the other dog hates it even more. He just sits outside my bedroom door and cries all day. I was looking at a radius electric fence or doing a slight electrifying on the top of the chain link fence we have so she gets a small shock when she puts her paws on it. If it would be possible to do the top of the fence so she can still access the whole back yard that would be awesome. I am having trouble a) finding out how to do this and b) if it is bad thing to do in the first place. I feel like 4 or 5 shocks and she would already have learned her lesson. I don't want to do an inground fence because I do not own this house. If I did own it I would go in ground electric. I saw one site that said you can run an electric wire on the top without much of a shock and that should be enough. Has anyone done this? My friend has a dog that can escape everything so he uses the radius electric fence, but I don't want to mess with cutting off half the back yard plus another collar for Kima to wear.
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Jun 18, 2013 22:36
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If she's determined enough to climb a fence, an electric shock might not be much of a deterrent.
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Jun 18, 2013 22:59
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Get coyote rollers instead. Maybe put slats through the chain link to make it harder to climb as well.
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Jun 19, 2013 04:30
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Skizzles posted:Get coyote rollers instead. Maybe put slats through the chain link to make it harder to climb as well. I had no idea a thing like this existed. That's ingenious.
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Jun 19, 2013 20:34
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I can't believe I've been following this thread for two years already. Every 6 months or so, something happens that makes me feel greatly indebted to a life less for starting it, thank you so much! If I hadn't found this thread a few days before getting my puppy, I would have stuck to the Cesar Milan puppy book with the TSST and the dominance and all that. Thankfully, I did find it, started clicker training him right away and stuck with it. So now I've got a great relationship with a dog who loves bringing me ducks and socks. I don't need to keep him on a leash in the woods and I can get neat pictures of him not chasing miscellaneous wildlife. A really solid stay has saved us in three close calls with porcupines and dozens of potential deer chases. 
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Jun 20, 2013 02:02
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Yaayyy happy training story.  (I needed to hear that after a night of being frustrated over stupid trainers.)
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Jun 20, 2013 07:07
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