|
Ah, okay. In that case I will grab one from OP. Thanks for the explanation.
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2013 09:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 15:16 |
|
|
Mikrotik make very good wired routers, I'm sure they have some 3-port models too. Though it might end up more expensive than a consumer router with WiFi. See the MikroTik thread
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2013 11:01
|
|
|
Is there any benefit to 802.11ac routers if your clients aren't 802.11ac? The op says "it's best to wait until you have a device which can use these before purchasing" but does that imply there's no benefit until the client is updated too? I rarely upgrade anything and it will be years before I have even one client that does 802.11ac, but if there's a benefit to the AP doing 802.11ac (beamforming poo poo into low orbit?) maybe it's worth it?
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 00:27
|
|
|
That is correct. Although they might benefit in other ways that a newer unit would, like better antenna design. But 802.11ac support without a compatible client is meaningless.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 00:40
|
|
|
My house is currently made out of tesla coils, so we have a lot of routers scattered all over that are wired to one another, just so our phones and laptops can be free. Our cable modem is a Thomson DCM475, and the router next to it splits to two computers and two routers, two old Linksys (WRT150N and WRT160N). Everything is connected by Cat-6. I want to modernize our set up, starting with the router next to our modem, but I need to keep it cheap. What kind of routers should I look at? Obviously good ethernet, but it needs to have some chops for wireless too.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 15:54
|
|
|
The OP has a lot of suggestions based on needs and price.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 16:18
|
|
|
Is there anything wrong with a gently used D-link DIR-655 rev B1 from 2009? A friend has it, but is missing the power supply (checking around looks like $22).
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 17:40
|
|
|
Kafka Esq. posted:Is there anything wrong with a gently used D-link DIR-655 rev B1 from 2009? A friend has it, but is missing the power supply (checking around looks like $22).
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 22:02
|
|
|
Well, took your advice before you gave it and nabbed a WNR3500Lv2. However, it refuses to connect to my cable modem. All it tells me to do is check cables and cycle the modem, which I've done a bunch (tried different cables, too). The modem works fine hooked directly into my desktop, though. The Netgear seems to recognize the router but won't pick up an IP from it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2013 23:34
|
|
|
Kafka Esq. posted:Well, took your advice before you gave it and nabbed a WNR3500Lv2. However, it refuses to connect to my cable modem. All it tells me to do is check cables and cycle the modem, which I've done a bunch (tried different cables, too). The modem works fine hooked directly into my desktop, though. The Netgear seems to recognize the router but won't pick up an IP from it. Have you tried leaving the modem off for, like, a minute (as in 60 seconds, a literal minute) before plugging it back in? I doubt it will help, but it's worth a try. Is your computer set to use a specific IP/Gateway/Subnet? You probably want to set it back to default if so. Finally, try doing a hard reset of the router (using a paperclip or pen and the button in back). Since you haven't done any configuration, this shouldn't be a big deal.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 00:16
|
|
|
Everything is on that should be on, but the internet light is amber. According to the manual, this means no IP address acquired. However, the cable modem definitely works when plugged into my computer, so I know it's broadcasting something! In the router webpage, the connection status dialog says 0 for everything. I've changed the patch cables, reset both the modem and the router.. I'm at a loss. This is Teksavvy, a very plug and play operation. No logins required.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 00:44
|
|
|
Kafka Esq. posted:Everything is on that should be on, but the internet light is amber. According to the manual, this means no IP address acquired. However, the cable modem definitely works when plugged into my computer, so I know it's broadcasting something!
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 00:53
|
|
|
Also, seriously try hard-resetting the router. I know it seems like it shouldn't matter, but I was having a similar problem the other day and that straight-up fixed it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 00:56
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Anyone have any specific recommendations for the highest speed possible on a short-distance (150' tops, 110' if I can put the endpoints at the most optimal LOS locations) wireless link? These 5Ghz Ubiquiti Locos seem really tempting, especially since the area is saturated as all hell on 2.4GHz but I wonder if I'd be able to get higher throughput either with some routers aimed at each other with gigabit ports instead of 100Mbps, or if this would justify 802.11ac. These work great, especially in point-to-point mode.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 01:00
|
|
|
Sadly, I've tried everything. Cables are right, everything has been hard reset.. It must be a problem with the router - tried one of the old routers from elsewhere in the house and it works fine. Should I think about updating firmware or something?
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 01:02
|
|
|
Kafka Esq. posted:Sadly, I've tried everything. Cables are right, everything has been hard reset.. It must be a problem with the router - tried one of the old routers from elsewhere in the house and it works fine. Should I think about updating firmware or something?  *** Your LAN IP range may be different from 192.168.1.x - check your modem. Also make sure that you're connecting the network cables from a LAN port on the modem (if it has more than one) to a LAN (not WAN) port on the Netgear.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 01:06
|
|
|
Are you loving kidding me? The colour coded cables and ports clearly marked INTERNET don't correspond to getting the loving internet working? Plugging it into the ethernet jack made the modem work. Now on to getting two different routers down the line to work. edit: it briefly stopped working and caused me to lose my poo poo, but it's back again. Thanks guys. Kafka Esq. fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jun 25, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 01:28
|
|
|
Ugh, okay, one last question - the https://www.routerlogin.net page has stopped working. Any idea what could have caused this? edit: nah, never mind - there's no way it's supposed to work like this. The WAN port has to work - it works on every other router I've got. If I use one of the ethernet ports, I can't connect one of the other routers or computers down the road. Kafka Esq. fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Jun 25, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 01:44
|
|
|
I use a D-link dwa-160 adapter to get my internet from an SMC8014-BIZ EZ Connect, and this worked for about a year before my adapter started constantly overheating. Should I just replace my adapter with another one, or would that be pointless? Should I upgrade to a better adapter? I know pretty much nothing about computers outside of the games I run on them and the OP is almost incomprehensible to me. Mostly I just want a stable connection so I can play LoL.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 03:52
|
|
|
I've just moved into a new house, and we've decided not to drill the walls, but instead switch to a wifi setup. The router situation is completely handled, but I was wondering what the best value wireless N card would be. I know I'll get the N signal fine because my laptop runs N no problem, just need to upgrade my desktop.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 04:43
|
|
|
Kafka Esq. posted:Ugh, okay, one last question - the https://www.routerlogin.net page has stopped working. Any idea what could have caused this?
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 05:26
|
|
|
It works now. Didn't do anything, just started working by itself. Plugged into the WAN port and all.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 16:00
|
|
|
Just got an Asus RT-N16 and installed Shibby Tomato. We keep getting "local access only" intermittently on the WiFi. Any ideas? I've been up and down the settings and everything looks proper.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 17:02
|
|
|
sirtommygunn posted:I use a D-link dwa-160 adapter to get my internet from an SMC8014-BIZ EZ Connect, and this worked for about a year before my adapter started constantly overheating. Should I just replace my adapter with another one, or would that be pointless? Should I upgrade to a better adapter? I know pretty much nothing about computers outside of the games I run on them and the OP is almost incomprehensible to me. Mostly I just want a stable connection so I can play LoL. Mage_Boy posted:I've just moved into a new house, and we've decided not to drill the walls, but instead switch to a wifi setup. The router situation is completely handled, but I was wondering what the best value wireless N card would be. I know I'll get the N signal fine because my laptop runs N no problem, just need to upgrade my desktop.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2013 17:26
|
|
|
Cross-posting from the Small Questions thread, since SHSC doesn't seem to have one  I read a thread not that long ago, which I believe was by our resident boar-hunter (whose username I can't remember), regarding tracking down a stolen laptop with the help of some wardriving and the IP address he obtained from the dropbox link on the machine. I'm trying to do something similar, but I can't figure out how I can get the LAN SSID from the external IP address. I feel like a Google service was involved. I don't think I'm making this up. Does anyone else know this?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2013 20:09
|
|
|
I don't see this listed on the original post, but I was wondering about the following: 1) What's the word on the "new" Linksys/Cisco EA-series? The main page lists the E-series which I believe is the older model of EAs. I have been looking between EA3500 and EA4500, where my primary concerns are gigabit Ethernet ports (I only use an iPhone 4S and 2012 MacBook Air with wireless, and that's kind of rare). Not all that concerned about custom firmware, but I remember loving my still-working WRT54G v3.0 from years ago (but unfortunately does not have GigE) 2) How about the new Airport Extreme? The new one is $199 and refurb of last year's model is around $125. Worth investigating?
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2013 05:11
|
|
|
Dragyn posted:I'm trying to do something similar, but I can't figure out how I can get the LAN SSID from the external IP address. I feel like a Google service was involved. I don't think I'm making this up. Does anyone else know this? Connect to the wireless network and go to https://www.whatismyip.com It's unlikely there is a large, publicly accessible database of IP addresses and any NAT'd WIFI networks behind them.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2013 05:31
|
|
|
My N66U arrived today from Amazon and I noticed the box says "Giganit LAN". Seems pretty legit. Edit: Any thoughts on the Netgear R6200? It's cheaper than the N66U and does 802.11AC (at "only" 867 mbit). Ninja Rope fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Jun 27, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2013 07:27
|
|
|
Modem: Motorola Surfboard 6141 Router: Cisco-Linksys E3000 running Tomato USB 1.28.9054 Okay, so my roommates started having problems with lag in games; like, 500-ping level lag. So, some investigation revealed that it was the 2.4ghz wireless network that was lagging. We have one computer and several phones in the house that can't connect to 5ghz networks. So, I disabled the 5ghz network, and it seemed to fix the issue. In addition, it was running quite hot (as apparently these routers are wont to do). So, I've got a couple of ideas for fixes: 1) Is it the heat that's the problem? This is entirely possible. I really don't want to disable the 5ghz network, because it's great; significantly less interference, about half the lag of the 2.4ghz network when the 2.4ghz network is working. So, cooling pad (I've currently elevated the back of the router so it's getting better airflow, but I could invest in a cooling pad). 2) Is it possible to wire two Cisco-Linksys E3000s in series, with one of them running a 5ghz network and the other running a 2.4ghz network? Is there anything weird I'd have to do to achieve this, or could I just plug one into the other? If so, this would probably reduce the heat problem, right? One of my roommates owns the same router, so I actually have a spare one sitting around I could flash with Tomato and set up without too much trouble. I'm correct that there shouldn't be any way for a 2.4ghz network to interfere with a 5ghz network, right, barring the two different networks running up way too much heat? Or is there another issue I could be looking at, here? I already tried changing the channel on the 2.4ghz network, and there doesn't seem to be any interference when the 5ghz network isn't running. Ideas?
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2013 10:04
|
|
|
Yes heat could totally be the problem. Yes you can use separate routers to run separate wireless networks. Plug the second router into a LAN port on the first router, turn off DHCP serving/NAT/whatever other routing functions. Setup 5ghz network only, so it's just a wireless access point. I'm not sure how well this will work if you have dual band devices and are used to having both bands use the same SSID, but in the past I've segregated the 2.4 and 5ghz networks by SSID and had no problems.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2013 14:57
|
|
|
Does anyone in here have any experience with the Netgear N600 Wireless Dual Band USB Adapter? I moved into a new house and was looking for a average priced Wireless Adapter for my PC, because I don't feel like running a really long Ethernet cable upstairs and into my room. Anyhow, this thing (besides the really wonky and stupid software that came with the Installation disk.) ran fine for the first ~two weeks I'd say, but lately the connection constantly drops. I've made sure that it's not my router or the internet itself, and a simple PC restart usually does the trick.. but the connection drops are pretty constant, where I have about ~6 per day? I've looked around and seen that a bunch of people have the same issue, so I'll probably return it. Does anyone have some good average priced Wireless USB Adapters that preferably won't start dropping connection within two weeks of usage?
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2013 19:25
|
|
|
Thanatosian posted:Modem: Motorola Surfboard 6141 Take top cover off, apply drill to plastic cover in pleasing pattern of holes. Replace top cover. This is what I did to my e-series when it started overheating and it fixed the problem until I got tired of having a separate 5ghz and 2.4ghz AP and bought an Asus RT-N66U
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2013 19:37
|
|
|
I just bought an ASUS RT-N66U dual band router and I like it a lot but I'm confused about one thing. It has 2.4ghz and 5ghz band and I have them set up with the same SSID because I don't really know which devices are capable of 5ghz in my house. If I have both bands with the same SSID will the ones with 5ghz automatically connect to that band or how does that work?
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2013 20:48
|
|
|
It's down to the device but they decide based on which one has a better signal strength, generally preferring 5ghz until the signal gets bad enough that the data rate drops below what is provided on 2.4ghz (since 5ghz has a shorter range)
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2013 22:13
|
|
|
Something that might be good in the OP is a mention that the Asus RT-N16 has only 32kB of usable NVRAM. That's a problem if you want to use VPN features because you may run out of NVRAM space for the keys. I ended up using 1024 bit keys to save some space. I am using HMAC tls-auth which gives some extra security. If you run out of NVRAM space, stuff starts to break. I've read that the next reboot after that happens will reset all NVRAM settings, which is a bummer. Apparently UPNP uses NVRAM, so the builds for the RT-N16 have UPNP disabled by default. On the other hand, my old e2000 has 60kB of NVRAM, so even with a bunch of 2048 bit VPN keys and certs, I still have 26kB free. In short, the NVRAM is a very important spec on these routers if you want to use enhanced features. I'm not sure whether this problem affects other Asus routers. Anyone?
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2013 03:52
|
|
|
^^^ 1024 bit keys are not considered "secure enough" any more. Can you store the keys elsewhere and symlink it or something? I've installed my N66U and I'm apparently the only guy around on 5ghz. My rMBP reports -90 dbm noise and -57 dbm signal, which it rates as "excellent". I'm connected at 450mbit, but file transfers are all stuck in the 6-7 megabytes/second range. On wired I'll get ~12x that, and I suppose I was expecting at least 10 megs/second out of the wireless, with some reviews putting things closer to 17 megs/second. Is there anything else I should check, or is 6-7 megabytes/second pretty reasonable? Edit: 40mhz channel width, too. Ninja Rope fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Jul 1, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2013 05:06
|
|
|
I read the OP, but I just want to make sure before I overnight ship something that won't work/is less effective (first world problems  ). I live in a ~6,000sq ft house, and the router is on the first floor, on the opposite end of the house. This affords me 1) terrible internet speeds (1.01 down, 1.10 upload) and 2) intermittently even more terrible internet speeds. I'd like to buy a repeater, as the homeowner does not wish for me to drill holes, or run wires of any variety, and since we live on a 30 acre plot of land, I don't think that there will be much interference. My router is the BUFFALO AirStation HighPower N300 Gigabit Wireless Router - WZR-HP-G300NH (AMAZON: http://www.amazon.com/BUFFALO-AirStation-HighPower-Gigabit-Wireless/dp/B0028ACYEK) and I was just wondering what the best repeater would be in the $100 range (or less if it's unnecessary). I just want to be able to watch netflix at a reasonable quality, and download games at a reasonable speed, and also maybe...juuust maybe play some games online sometime. I looked at the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Smart Repeater and Range Extender (SR10000) on amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Amped-Wireles...d=I4N6VMF7KN6M9) Would this be a good offer? I was also looking at the NETGEAR - IEEE 802.11n 600 Mbps Wireless Range Extender at best buy which I could buy on my drive home. (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/NETGEAR+-+IEEE+802.11n+600+Mbps+Wireless+Range+Extender/4317174.p?id=1218475385932&skuId=4317174) I realize that I could buy a cheap router online and install DD-WRT or whatever firmware on it to make a bridge, but I really would rather just buy something and have it running in less than 10 minutes as I am a lazy garbage man of a person. Thsnks
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2013 16:00
|
|
|
What's the target computer? If you're going to a wired connection, ultimately, since you say bridge, you might want to consider moca if there are coax cable connections near your router on one end and the target computer on the other. If you wanted to spend a lot of money and extend your wireless signal, you could add a wireless access point to the opposite end of the house using moca as well - it would be faster, as you take a pretty big hit in bandwidth repeating a wireless signal. All that said, you could buy the same (or newer http://www.amazon.com/BUFFALO-AirStation-HighPower-Wireless-WZR-300HP/dp/B0096239FG/ref=dp_ob_title_ce ) model of what you already have and set up WDS, which would be cheaper than either of the other things you linked.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2013 16:09
|
|
|
Dogen posted:What's the target computer? If you're going to a wired connection, ultimately, since you say bridge, you might want to consider moca if there are coax cable connections near your router on one end and the target computer on the other. If you wanted to spend a lot of money and extend your wireless signal, you could add a wireless access point to the opposite end of the house using moca as well - it would be faster, as you take a pretty big hit in bandwidth repeating a wireless signal. The target computer is just my ladyfriend and I's laptops, and my Xbox and PS3. I also would like it to have an ethernet port so I can hook it up to my Qnap NAS so I can pull files from it. Is WDS my best option in regards to speed too? or is it the best option for price? It seems to me that I need some sort of signal boost in the middle somewhere, since my laptop and game consoles show very few bars for signal in my room.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2013 16:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 15:16 |
|
|
No, WDS is the worst option with regard to signal speed. The problem with a signal booster/repeater of the like is that they cut the bandwidth in half, because it has to use bandwidth to communicate with the router and then rebroadcast a signal. That's why you'd still be better off, if you need wireless on the other end, setting up some kind of wired connection (eg moca) and then setting up a wireless access point on that side of the house. That said, WDS is still going to be a lot better than your current ~1MB assuming you can place the unit where it's getting good signal from the router and providing good signal to your devices.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2013 16:22
|
|