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S.J.
May 19, 2008

Just who the hell do you think we are?

Jcam posted:

I'm part way through my first painting-foray away from Games Workshop miniatures, which happens to be a Trollblood Impaler. Really love the detail and size of the model, it's already been a lot of fun to paint.



This looks really solid man, good work. Love your metallics.

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Goat Bouillabaise
Sep 21, 2005
Strike Force DUMBASS!

Hixson posted:

So I fixed some glaring mistakes on my previously posted flyer. Here it is again -





BEACH. VOLLEYBALL.

Seriously man, that's just gorgeous. Top marks.

MollyMetroid
Jan 20, 2004

Trout Clan Daimyo

Dirty Job posted:

So I decided to prime some models using Liquitex brand gesso for the first time, and the tutorials I found online seem to state that "glopping it on" is the primary mode for priming your models. I did so, but my crisis suit came out as a dried up gloopy mess. Does anyone here have any tips on properly priming their models with gesso?

I've been priming with gesso for some time and I quickly found the "glop it on" method is garbage. Essentially what I've had best results with is to treat it like a basecoat and apply a thin layer of it using a brush, and don't let it pool or anything. It doesn't need to be too thick for it to do its job, and it's going to obscure details terribly if you just slather it on there.

I'm finding that with gesso-primed minis, though, the first response I get when showing my work to others is "thin your paints dude," and it took me a few instances of explaining that I DO thin before I started trying to figure out what it was that kept triggering that response about my stuff. I've come to the conclusion that the gesso may be the cause there. Your mileage may vary, but I'd suggest not priming too much with it till you're sure you like the way they come out.

Verdugo
Jan 5, 2009


Lipstick Apathy

Zero Suit Ridley posted:

I've been priming with gesso for some time and I quickly found the "glop it on" method is garbage. Essentially what I've had best results with is to treat it like a basecoat and apply a thin layer of it using a brush, and don't let it pool or anything. It doesn't need to be too thick for it to do its job, and it's going to obscure details terribly if you just slather it on there.

I'm finding that with gesso-primed minis, though, the first response I get when showing my work to others is "thin your paints dude," and it took me a few instances of explaining that I DO thin before I started trying to figure out what it was that kept triggering that response about my stuff. I've come to the conclusion that the gesso may be the cause there. Your mileage may vary, but I'd suggest not priming too much with it till you're sure you like the way they come out.

I agree. I picked up some black gesso, and while people to reccomend to put it on thick, I always found it was too annoying to work with. If you put it on too thin, edges of the model become exposed as the gesso dries. If you put it on too thick, it makes the final model look rough. I exclusively use gesso now for priming bases and large pieces of terrain.

Also, never put unthinned gesso in an airbrush. Or in an airbrush at all. Gesso + Airbrush = misery. :v:

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Verdugo posted:

Unthinned anything except dedicated airbrush paints + Airbrush = misery. :v:
Fixed :v:

Verdugo
Jan 5, 2009


Lipstick Apathy
Yup! "I'm out of Grey primer, I'll just use this bottle of Apple Barrel and put it in the airbrush."

Chill la Chill
Jul 2, 2007

Don't lose your gay


Speaking of this, are these kinds of vallejo primers fine to use in an airbrush? If so, do I need to thin it? I specifically have the black and white ones but currently just use a brush to apply it.

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
I use those in my airbrush all the time, I do thin them but it depends what pressure I'm spraying at - 10psi I thin them 1:1 and at 30 I don't thin them very much, if at all.

Hellbeard
Apr 8, 2002


Please report me if you see me post in GBS so a moderator may bulldoze my account like a palestinian school.
Thanks for the tips guys, I'll update when I get more progress.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

Fox of Stone posted:

Speaking of this, are these kinds of vallejo primers fine to use in an airbrush? If so, do I need to thin it? I specifically have the black and white ones but currently just use a brush to apply it.


My airbrush suggests running at 20-25psi and I don't thin my vallejo primer.

LumberingTroll
Sep 9, 2007

Really it's not because
I don't like you...

Indolent Bastard posted:

My airbrush suggests running at 20-25psi and I don't thin my vallejo primer.

Same here.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Fox of Stone posted:

Speaking of this, are these kinds of vallejo primers fine to use in an airbrush? If so, do I need to thin it? I specifically have the black and white ones but currently just use a brush to apply it.


They're fine if you thin them a bit. I use the white one and while it can be airbrushed unthinned, I found it clogs the nozzle quickly in that case.

Limp Wristed Limey
Sep 7, 2010

by Lowtax
I have blasted those primers at 50psi with no problems.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

Dirty Job posted:

So I decided to prime some models using Liquitex brand gesso for the first time, and the tutorials I found online seem to state that "glopping it on" is the primary mode for priming your models. I did so, but my crisis suit came out as a dried up gloopy mess. Does anyone here have any tips on properly priming their models with gesso?

When I used gesso I had to water it down about 3:1 and coat about twice. I used grey. Black was always gloopy and hard to work with. Make sure you have new gesso too since older stuff will clump (if you are using an airbrush). Painting on is fine, 3:1, but I switched to airbrush primers after I tried putting gesso on a rhino :(

Manifest
Jul 7, 2007

HELLO THERE I COME FROM THE FUTURE
Thanks for the primer talk guys. I've been meaning to switch to those for days when it's too cold/hot outside to prime.

Buffalo squeeze
Dec 19, 2010

Oh noble brogy. Overflowing with meaty wisdom and secret sauce.

Hixson posted:

So I fixed some glaring mistakes on my previously posted flyer. Here it is again -





and since I had all my camera stuff out I took some of my other stuff -



wb got a little hosed on the last one

camera chat: I'm having trouble taking good pictures of individual infantry models. I have my aperture reeeaally narrow with a really long shutter speed and low ISO. What's the ideal focal length? I only had my 70-200 with me.

I love these, great job.

LumberingTroll
Sep 9, 2007

Really it's not because
I don't like you...

Manifest posted:

Thanks for the primer talk guys. I've been meaning to switch to those for days when it's too cold/hot outside to prime.

With an airbrush its NEVER too hot/cold/humid :smugdog:

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer
When PV painted my Space Hulk stuff a couple years ago, that jerk primed them all outside in the dead of Michigan winter. With white primer, too. So suck it up bros. :clint:

Reubenesque Sandwich
Aug 1, 2006
Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
Fun Shoe

Signal posted:

Also, consider simply scoring the plasticard with a sharp knife to make the junction lines, instead of actually attaching two separate pieces. It gets you the same look, but much cleaner.

Micro mark sells a scoring tool for this exact use! It's basically a ultra-tiny V-groove made hard steel, designed to drag detail lines into anything softer then it. Saved me tons of time when I was building my tanker mobs.

Lethemonster
Aug 5, 2009

I was hiding under your bench because I don't want to work out
Whoo I had a great painting session today.

Emerald, dark turquoise, blue green and the non-alcohol based gold paints from the vallejo model colour range are absolutely gorgeous and even if you don't think you've got a need for them you should grab them anyway. Very striking colours in their own right but the three mix together beautifully.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Lethemonster posted:

Whoo I had a great painting session today.

Emerald, dark turquoise, blue green and the non-alcohol based gold paints from the vallejo model colour range are absolutely gorgeous and even if you don't think you've got a need for them you should grab them anyway. Very striking colours in their own right but the three mix together beautifully.

Emerald and Blue green are the colours I've used on my Mymerea Titans. They're lovely, but man do they stink coming out an airbrush.

JoshTheStampede
Sep 8, 2004

come at me bro

Fox of Stone posted:

Speaking of this, are these kinds of vallejo primers fine to use in an airbrush? If so, do I need to thin it? I specifically have the black and white ones but currently just use a brush to apply it.


My white and grey run great unthinned, the black does not.

Master Twig
Oct 25, 2007

I want to branch out and I'm going to stick with it.
Converted the one Zoanthrope I have into the Doom of Malan'Tai. Not as crazy as some of the conversions I've seen, but I like it.

BurntCornMuffin
Jan 9, 2009


Any recommendations on paint masks? I'm trying to accomplish a digital camo look, but the only mask I see that accomplishes this is discontinued ( http://www.hlj.com/product/HQPDCMTS ).

LumberingTroll
Sep 9, 2007

Really it's not because
I don't like you...

BurntCornMuffin posted:

Any recommendations on paint masks? I'm trying to accomplish a digital camo look, but the only mask I see that accomplishes this is discontinued ( http://www.hlj.com/product/HQPDCMTS ).

Frisket Film

http://www.amazon.com/Grafix-Purpose-Frisket-9-Inch---12-Inch/dp/B0027A5HFE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1372204848&sr=8-10&keywords=Frisket+Film

Cheap, comes with six 9"x 12" sheets, and works well.

dishwasherlove
Nov 26, 2007

The ultimate fusion of man and machine.

So I ordered some Vallejo Old Gold. Thanks thread.

SRM
Jul 10, 2009

~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~
Some Dark Angels I painted, crossposted from the Oath thread:






LumberingTroll
Sep 9, 2007

Really it's not because
I don't like you...
Project: Nerd Den
Status: Complete...








Now to build some terrain! (and paint some figures!)

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!
Can I come over? :swoon:

LumberingTroll
Sep 9, 2007

Really it's not because
I don't like you...

VoodooXT posted:

Can I come over? :swoon:

Only if you dont mind traveling to South Dakota!

VoodooXT
Feb 24, 2006
I want Tong Po! Give me Tong Po!

LumberingTroll posted:

Only if you dont mind traveling to South Dakota!

I smell road trip. :v:

But seriously, that's an awesome nerd cave. I wish had room for one of those since then I could invite people to game and not have to deal with the nerd musk of my LGS.

Irate Tree
Mar 12, 2011

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

SRM posted:

Some Dark Angels I painted, crossposted from the Oath thread:








These marines are really spot on! Love how fine your highlights came out and that Sergeant :fap:

I haven't posted anything in a while so, here's something that I've been painting. Still a work in progress, obviously but I felt like sharing. I'm quite pleased with how the orange is turning out. I need to make that sash brighter, so much brighter!





Quote for the day: "Grab some Skittles, I'm painting Eldar!"

Serotonin
Jul 14, 2001

The history of all hitherto existing society is the history of *blank*

BurntCornMuffin posted:

Any recommendations on paint masks? I'm trying to accomplish a digital camo look, but the only mask I see that accomplishes this is discontinued ( http://www.hlj.com/product/HQPDCMTS ).

http://www.criticalmassgames.com/default.asp?category=maskfx

Work brilliantly.

Lethemonster
Aug 5, 2009

I was hiding under your bench because I don't want to work out

serious gaylord posted:

Emerald and Blue green are the colours I've used on my Mymerea Titans. They're lovely, but man do they stink coming out an airbrush.

Mine are completely scentless, so hopefully the next lot you get should be as well. I am still getting lots of paint up my nose when I use my brush too.

jadebullet
Mar 25, 2011


MY LIFE FOR YOU!

Lethemonster posted:

Mine are completely scentless, so hopefully the next lot you get should be as well. I am still getting lots of paint up my nose when I use my brush too.

Your avatar makes this post 100X better.

In actual paint news, I have started work on my guardsmen for something to paint, and I am trying my hand at wet blending. Wish me luck.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Lethemonster posted:

Mine are completely scentless, so hopefully the next lot you get should be as well. I am still getting lots of paint up my nose when I use my brush too.

I've started wearing a dust mask because even with my extractor unit going I sneeze paint for days after using the airbrush.

Not a viking
Aug 2, 2008

Feels like I just got laid

protomexican posted:

Any tips on painting zombie flesh? I just got my reaper kickstarter and I'm playing a necromancer in one of my games. The skeletons were real easy, I just used GW's bone with Gryphon Sepia wash and they turned out great.

The latest Bad Dice daily episode is about painting flesh of different kinds. They basically tell you how to do a basic skin that would work for most anything and then add watered down washes to taste.

jadebullet
Mar 25, 2011


MY LIFE FOR YOU!
Crossposting from the 40K thread.

My first attempt at actually blending paint together rather than just layering the premixed paint colors.

Let me know what you think.





Dr Hemulen
Jan 25, 2003

Looks good! Really griddy and trenchy.
Here's some progress on necromunda juve:

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Hellbeard
Apr 8, 2002


Please report me if you see me post in GBS so a moderator may bulldoze my account like a palestinian school.

HardCoil posted:

Looks good! Really griddy and trenchy.
Here's some progress on necromunda juve:


Sweet! The head looks very nice. Try adding more mass at the sides of his abdomen to make it less thin.

Our update.
Work on 1:100 IDF:









Work on 1:56 planetFaller rifle:

Got this cute tool for gouging lines.



Here are three generations side by side. The bottom one is the latest with the scribed details added.



Super sculpey press mold for creating copies that I can then work on.



That's it for now. I've got some putty curing inside the mold right now. I want to see if I can get some nicer, cleaner details somehow either by modifying the mold or doing some work on the cast or both or more things.

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