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Holy poo poo! Yeah, that thing will see another 200k easy. There is more rust on parts I put on my truck halfway through the winter than there is anywhere on your truck.
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Jun 28, 2013 15:56
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Shifty Pony posted:There is a a bit of surface Wow...yeah, that truck is gonna be good for a real long time. That's a keeper. Let me know when you want to sell it 
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Jun 28, 2013 15:59
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Today I saw a Touareg V10 TDI. I didn't know that engine configuration existed.
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Jun 29, 2013 05:31
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They are awesome - 309hp, 553 ft-lbs. Here's one dragging a chevy 6.5 duramax bro-truck in a tug of war, in fact: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UFVI_MQPEQ e: I am pretty sure if the bro truck hadn't had a bunch of lift in the back (from the way it handles in the video, I'm guessing lift blocks and no traction bar, or even lift springs and no traction bar) and maybe some weight for traction it MIGHT have won. Good job making your truck useless! kastein fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Jul 1, 2013 |
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Jun 29, 2013 06:40
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I was told that if you chip them then completely drop the clutch at idle in 1st gear, all four tires will spin instead of the car stalling. I can't confirm that though.
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Jul 1, 2013 03:57
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Any recommendations on a set of good winter tires for a Jetta TDI?
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Aug 5, 2013 21:41
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Dattserberg posted:Any recommendations on a set of good winter tires for a Jetta TDI? Depends. I run all seasons, but then again I live in a city that usually has the roads clean and prepped when it snows. It depends a lot on what you have to deal with on a day to day basis.
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Aug 5, 2013 22:28
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veedubfreak posted:Depends. I run all seasons, but then again I live in a city that usually has the roads clean and prepped when it snows. It depends a lot on what you have to deal with on a day to day basis. Unfortunately that isn't the case for me. I drive about 25 miles each way to work, about 15 miles of those roads being between open fields. With that comes a lot of blown snow, drifts, and icy conditions.
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Aug 5, 2013 22:31
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kastein posted:They are awesome - 309hp, 553 ft-lbs. I like people that do "tug of wars". Usually something happens and ends up with a missing back window.
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Aug 5, 2013 22:55
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Dattserberg posted:Unfortunately that isn't the case for me. I drive about 25 miles each way to work, about 15 miles of those roads being between open fields. With that comes a lot of blown snow, drifts, and icy conditions. Something studded then. If you have to deal with lots of ice/snowpack studs help immensely. If you just tend to drive on freshly plowed/light snow, you tend to do better with just a good studless winter or good all season. Read this. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=94 I might actually end up getting a snow set this year just because it's a pain in the rear end to keep my good wheels in good condition during the snow season. I'm out of garage space atm though. Already have 3 sets of drat wheels taking up space. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Aug 6, 2013 |
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Aug 6, 2013 14:46
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I like people that do "tug of wars". Usually something happens and ends up with a missing back window. I am not a fan of stupid people in general if I have to actually deal with them but watching them break poo poo is fun.
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Aug 6, 2013 16:46
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Dattserberg posted:Any recommendations on a set of good winter tires for a Jetta TDI? I've got a set of Michelin X-Ice XI-3s for my Golf TDI and would definitely recommend them. Went through my first winter in Edmonton, Alberta without so much as a slight scare or hesitation in traction. Have to accelerate more slowly or the traction control light starts flashing, but felt 100% confident at all times.
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Aug 13, 2013 05:43
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Anyone familiar with Volvos D5 engine? Anything I need to watch out for as scheduled replacement parts?
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Aug 13, 2013 05:59
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Cakefool posted:Anyone familiar with Volvos D5 engine? Anything I need to watch out for as scheduled replacement parts? On the whole they're good solid reliable engines, when treated and maintained right. Being common rail there will possibly come a point when injectors need replacing due to excessive return flow/internal leakage, which is a usually unpleasant job. They seize badly into the cylinder head, and the injectors cost about £220-ish each. Don't take it to the dealer, i have the Volvo removal tool and it rarely works. Last set i did took me 11 hours to remove all 5, and was billed at about £2,000. Excessive return flow and internal leakage of the injectors on D5s is usually shown up by poor starting and lack of power when first started.
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Aug 13, 2013 12:06
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A few weeks ago I sold my track/DD Triumph Daytona 675 that I put a few trackdays and like 12k miles on over 8 months because I kinda wanted a car / I didn't want to wad a bunch of money at the track. Soooo I bought a beat-rear end 2000 Jetta TDI for way too much money ($4800).  Since I bought it I've put 2k miles on it, replaced the DMF with the Sachs quiet SMF clutch kit, and fixed a bunch of little poo poo. Total into the car is about $5600 now.  When I bought it the IQ was around 9 at idle so I 'hammer modded' that down to 4-ish; the timing was so far retarded that it made smoke on cold start and wouldn't show on the VAGCOM map - I just fixed it to this:  drat thing is pretty quick for what I had expected and the gas mileage is almost at what my Triumph was doing... I think I kinda like this car. Time to finish my 2000 Yamaha R1 trackbike before I lose my poo poo though. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Aug 14, 2013 |
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Aug 14, 2013 00:00
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BlackMK4 posted:Since I bought it I've put 2k miles on it, replaced the DMF with the Sachs quiet SMF clutch kit, and fixed a bunch of little poo poo. Total into the car is about $5600 now. I like this, I'm going to use it for my car to log maintenance. I'm wondering, what's the difference between "paid" and "market price"?
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Aug 14, 2013 16:00
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savesthedayrocks posted:I like this, I'm going to use it for my car to log maintenance. I'm wondering, what's the difference between "paid" and "market price"? It was something I was too lazy to hit delete column on from my last car 
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Aug 14, 2013 18:48
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BlackMK4 posted:drat thing is pretty quick for what I had expected and the gas mileage is almost at what my Triumph was doing... I think I kinda like this car. Time to finish my 2000 Yamaha R1 trackbike before I lose my poo poo though. Does it have a tuning chip? I'd highly recommend getting one.
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Aug 16, 2013 05:38
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Opensourcepirate posted:Does it have a tuning chip? I'd highly recommend getting one. Not yet - bone stock. I'm kinda not certain on modding the thing yet because I see myself picking up nozzles ($250-300) and a stage 2/3 tune ($250-350)... then a VNT17/22... then coilovers and wheels... I keep telling myself that it's going to be a stock DD. We both know that never happens.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Aug 16, 2013 |
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Aug 16, 2013 07:43
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BlackMK4 posted:Not yet - bone stock. I'm kinda not certain on modding the thing yet because I see myself picking up nozzles ($250-300) and a stage 2/3 tune ($250-350)... then a VNT17/22... then coilovers and wheels... Bigger injectors, VNT1749VB (150 PD turbo) and a good intercooler will see ~190bhp and ~290-320lb/ft while still maintaining huge fuel economy. My 130PD which is standard aside from being remapped is pushing about 175bhp and 300lb/ft weighs 3,340lb breaks 60mpg. (US gallons, or 71mpg Imperial gallons.) It is a 6-speed though and i run it on cruise control on the motorway @ 60mph.
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Aug 16, 2013 11:37
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Mooseykins posted:On the whole they're good solid reliable engines, when treated and maintained right. Being common rail there will possibly come a point when injectors need replacing due to excessive return flow/internal leakage, which is a usually unpleasant job. They seize badly into the cylinder head, and the injectors cost about £220-ish each. Don't take it to the dealer, i have the Volvo removal tool and it rarely works. Last set i did took me 11 hours to remove all 5, and was billed at about £2,000. Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for these symptoms. Are they mileage based or do they crap out at random ? The one in looking at is 10 years old, 70k miles, full dealer history.
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Aug 16, 2013 12:31
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Cakefool posted:Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for these symptoms. Are they mileage based or do they crap out at random ? The one in looking at is 10 years old, 70k miles, full dealer history. Generally the higher mileage cars that've been run on cheap nasty diesel their whole lives. Most i've dealt with that needed new injectors were ~2002s in the 120-150k region, and usually only one injector was really badly leaking internally, with another one or two touching the upper limits of what they should leak. You can replace only what's neccessary, but we always advised that all were replaced as often other injectors would fail later on. (Does all at once reduced the overall cost, and many things like fuel rails and injector lines needed to be removed each time work on injectors was carried out.) When i worked at Volvo the master tech i worked with hadn't really done anything with the D5s in terms of injector-related stuff so i guess it's not all that common or Volvo just outsource it. (Their injector puller is severely inadequate for the job.) Also bear in mind, things like cam cover leaks are costly to replace, as they use a cam-carrier/cover setup where the two are combined into one solid ally assembly, and requires injector removal and timing gear to be stripped to reseal the two sides to solve the leak, but this is quite unusual to happen.
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Aug 16, 2013 13:53
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I know of a guy who got his injector broken in two and one part stuck in the head when the Volvo dealer tried to remove it. That ended with a new cylinder head because they couldn't (or didn't want to spend the time trying to) get the stuck parts of it out. That was on a D4164T though.
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Aug 16, 2013 15:27
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V40? The car I'm trying to buy (answer your drat emails dealer) is an 03 S80 that's been babied for its life and only need two new tyres.
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Aug 16, 2013 21:32
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I know of a guy who got his injector broken in two and one part stuck in the head when the Volvo dealer tried to remove it. That ended with a new cylinder head because they couldn't (or didn't want to spend the time trying to) get the stuck parts of it out. That was on a D4164T though. That's not at all unheard of, the steel injectors fit tightly into the bore in the ally cylinder heads, add a little moisture and time and you get aluminium and steel oxidation, in a tight tolerance that then also becomes one and reacts to "weld" together. Seized injectors do break, or poor removal methods often damage them beyond the point of removal. There's only so much to work with when it comes to removing common rail injectors. The most common Bosch ones have two sets of threads that are used for removal, damage either one or both and that injector's never coming out, there's nothing for any removal tool to attach to. The last volvo set of 5 i did took me 11 hours, air hammer to get them to turn in the bores and break the corrosion seal, then various extractors and removal methods. Including making tools to aid removal. The D4164T is a PSA-Peugeot engine, only found in the newer C30/S40/V50s. Needless to say that i cover all injectors and glow plugs i replace with special ceramic anti-seize. When i worked for a friend it wasn't uncommon to scrap entire cylinder heads from Mercedes-Benz 2.2-, 2.7- and 3.2-litre common rail engines. Once all removal methods are exhausted, the cylinder head is scrapped and a whole new one is bought with new injectors and glow plugs, plastered in ceramic anti-seize. Cakefool posted:V40? The car I'm trying to buy (answer your drat emails dealer) is an 03 S80 that's been babied for its life and only need two new tyres. That'll be the same older D5 engine that i've worked on many. Good engines, just be sure the cam belt has been done at the correct intervals and isn't immediately due. Should also be pre-DPF which is good. (Sorry for the long-rear end post)
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Aug 16, 2013 23:43
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Mooseykins posted:The D4164T is a PSA-Peugeot engine, only found in the newer C30/S40/V50s. Yeah, I know. And since my V50 is a 2006 with DPF, with 175k miles on it, I've had the pleasure of changing the DPF twice (875 GBP eqv each time), filling Eolys four times and changing the cam belt once. All things considered, it would have been cheaper to get a 1.8 petrol one.
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Aug 17, 2013 05:35
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Mooseykins posted:That'll be the same older D5 engine that i've worked on many. Good engines, just be sure the cam belt has been done at the correct intervals and isn't immediately due. Should also be pre-DPF which is good. Thank you, that's all really informative. Cambelt was done last year at about 68k, I hadn't thought about DPF but that'd be a relief, what am I looking for to conform? Also I assume trying to pull the injectors to treat them with anti-seize preventatively is asking for trouble?
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Aug 17, 2013 09:47
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Yeah, I know. And since my V50 is a 2006 with DPF, with 175k miles on it, I've had the pleasure of changing the DPF twice (875 GBP eqv each time), filling Eolys four times and changing the cam belt once. All things considered, it would have been cheaper to get a 1.8 petrol one. Well that sucks, was it because it couldn't regen? We have a few companies here that take DPFs that can't be regen'd and chuck them in an oven and bake them at 600 degrees C for a few hours to burn off the soot. They come out like new. A friend and i once cleaned out the DPF in his Q7 4.2 TDI. It involved petrol, a blowtorch, an industrial vacuum cleaner and a lot of swearing. It worked for a week then we removed it again and hammered it hollow. What is the cam belt interval on yours? I recall that many D5s had an interval of about 90k (miles) or 8 years. (i think.) Cakefool posted:Thank you, that's all really informative. Cambelt was done last year at about 68k, I hadn't thought about DPF but that'd be a relief, what am I looking for to conform? An '03 should pre-DPF for Volvo. I believe the first Volvo D5s to come with DPFs were late 2004/early 2005. Cakefool posted:Also I assume trying to pull the injectors to treat them with anti-seize preventatively is asking for trouble? That comes under "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Pull injectors to coat them with anti-seize so they come out easy when you need to pull them? If they don't need to come out don't spend hundreds having someone take them out, and run the risk of spend £1500 when they go wrong.  Unless an injector has failed, there's a horrendous cam cover leak or you need to pull the cylinder head, best leave the injectors in there. The top part of the injector (The control solenoid) has to be removed, as well as a few internal pieces for the removal tool to go on, so there's a risk of them not working right once reassembled as they're extremely delicate and high-tolerance parts. I'll have a look if i have any pictures of any D5 injector jobs i've done. Mooseykins fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Aug 17, 2013 |
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Aug 17, 2013 16:08
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Mooseykins posted:Well that sucks, was it because it couldn't regen? We have a few companies here that take DPFs that can't be regen'd and chuck them in an oven and bake them at 600 degrees C for a few hours to burn off the soot. They come out like new. Quoting Volvo about the 1.6D and 2.0D; quote:The fuel additive, whilst promoting regeneration to burn off soot particles, leaves a small ash residue which cannot be burnt off. It is therefore necessary to replace DPFs requiring the fuel additive at the 75,000 mile service interval. This changed in 2011 or 2012, when they removed the intervall on the PSA diesels as well (on Volvos at least). I told them not to change it the second time just to see how far I'd get. Less than 6k miles later the car went in to limp home mode with a clogged filter. The intervall on the cam belt is 150k miles or 10 years, so I can't really complain about that. At those intervalls, it starts to become a non-issue. ninja edit: thank you for your knowledge, Mooseykins. It is very appreciated. Nidhg00670000 fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Aug 18, 2013 |
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Aug 18, 2013 01:24
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Nidhg00670000 posted:This changed in 2011 or 2012, when they removed the intervall on the PSA diesels as well (on Volvos at least). I told them not to change it the second time just to see how far I'd get. Less than 6k miles later the car went in to limp home mode with a clogged filter. The intervall on the cam belt is 150k miles or 10 years, so I can't really complain about that. At those intervalls, it starts to become a non-issue. Interesting to read that, i often wondered why it looked like you could unbolt the bottom of the DPFs on those, maybe you just do that and pull out the filter, shove in a new one and charge the customer out the rear end!  That's a hell of an interval, i thought my TDI's one was impressive at 80k (Compared to 40k for my old Golf..) and D5s at 90k. Nidhg00670000 posted:ninja edit: thank you for your knowledge, Mooseykins. It is very appreciated. You're very welcome, i'm glad it was helpful.
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Aug 18, 2013 02:31
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quote:Cummins Inc. (NYSE:CMI) announced ¬today that its historic Columbus Engine Plant (CEP) is being readied to build the Cummins 5.0L V8 Turbo Diesel for Nissan’s next generation Titan pickup truck. Oh a pocket diesel V8!
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Aug 20, 2013 19:18
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InterceptorV8 posted:Oh a pocket diesel V8! Nice! Still waiting on some more small block diesels for passenger and small trucks.
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Aug 20, 2013 19:24
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InterceptorV8 posted:Oh a pocket diesel V8! One of my friends from Indiana works in that plant and hasn't shut up about it since the news went public. I have to say I'm liking this new trend of going diesel... gently caress you Chevy for your "lets turn a 350 into a diesel by strapping stupid poo poo to it!!!1 " move in the 80s that helped make everyone hate diesels.
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Aug 20, 2013 22:37
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Now if only the price of diesel would go down. It's not supposed to stay more expensive than gas during the summer god damnit.
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Aug 20, 2013 22:48
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veedubfreak posted:Now if only the price of diesel would go down. It's not supposed to stay more expensive than gas during the summer god damnit. Think of the mileage.
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Aug 20, 2013 22:54
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veedubfreak posted:Now if only the price of diesel would go down. It's not supposed to stay more expensive than gas during the summer god damnit. I note it varies wildly around where I live - some parts of town it's more than premium and other parts it's below unleaded. 
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Aug 20, 2013 22:55
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kastein posted:One of my friends from Indiana works in that plant and hasn't shut up about it since the news went public. That was actually GM/Cadillac, and the diesel motor was less of the issue, the severe lack of a water separator for the fuel system and incorrect head-bolts was its issue. With proper maintenance its actually a decent motor for a naturally aspirated diesel.
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Aug 20, 2013 23:21
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InterceptorV8 posted:Oh a pocket diesel V8! You guys miss out on so many of the nice small diesel engines we have over here. I think many of our big trucks have bigger engines than yours too, biggest i know of for OTR trucks is 16.2-litre twin-turbo. (MAN TGX) CommieGIR posted:That was actually GM/Cadillac, and the diesel motor was less of the issue, the severe lack of a water separator for the fuel system and incorrect head-bolts was its issue. With proper maintenance its actually a decent motor for a naturally aspirated diesel. 
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Aug 20, 2013 23:28
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The major issue was that in the late 1970s, GM wasn't very sure of turbocharging for consumer models yet, they were worried about reliability and having to cover turbocharger failures.
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Aug 20, 2013 23:34
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Mooseykins posted:You guys miss out on so many of the nice small diesel engines we have over here. I think many of our big trucks have bigger engines than yours too, biggest i know of for OTR trucks is 16.2-litre twin-turbo. (MAN TGX) The biggest we get are 16 liter, 600hp/2050 ft/lb I6s, even our 1 ton pickups are up to 400hp/850ft/lbs edit: although, you'll probably be losing the higher horsepower engine options with the euro6 emissions, which is still less strict than the US EPA 2010 requirements. Euro 5 emissions allow over twice the particulate matter, and over 10 times the NOx emissions. Euro 6 is still about 20% more particulate matter, and around 3 times the NOx emissions. MAN doesn't even offer the 540hp engine in euro 6 spec yet. Powershift fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Aug 20, 2013 |
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Aug 20, 2013 23:47
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