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My wife has some old coins she swears are worth a fair amount. I recognize a couple of them from this thread, so she might actually be right. Or not These are the three that look to be the most interesting.   And there are these two which look old as hell but I see no value listed on them and there is a weird hole clipped in the top. Both feature George Washington. The smaller one is almost totally illegible, but is heavier than the larger coin. The front and back are identical.  Edit 2: Got on my PC and used the TIMG tag because why not. ConfusedUs fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Apr 28, 2013 |
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Apr 28, 2013 05:26
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ConfusedUs posted:The imgur app doesn't tell me how large the medium pics are. I didn't want to break tables. You can use the [timg] tag to make them not break tables.
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Apr 28, 2013 05:35
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ConfusedUs posted:My wife has some old coins she swears are worth a fair amount. I recognize a couple of them from this thread, so she might actually be right. Or not The 1921 dollar coin is a Morgan silver dollar struck in Philadelphia. Uncirculated (mint) condition with some toning, $40-50 The smaller coin is a Walking Liberty half dollar, heavily worn with no date but nice coloration. $10 The 2010 coin is a silver one-ounce American Eagle bullion coin, worth about $30 at current silver prices. The George Washington tokens are most likely copies of a funeral medal struck shortly after George Washington's death. Copies were struck in large quantities by private companies throughout the 20th century in various metals. The vast majority of them are worthless. The denser corroded one is probably pewter.
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Apr 29, 2013 00:19
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Ron Don Volante posted:The 1921 dollar coin is a Morgan silver dollar struck in Philadelphia. Uncirculated (mint) condition with some toning, $40-50 Thanks! That's about what I expected. Any recommendations for determining the value of Confederate money? My wife as a whole stack of Confederate dollars of various denominations in various conditions.
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Apr 29, 2013 00:41
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ConfusedUs posted:Thanks! That's about what I expected. No problem! I'm not much of an expert on currency but you might check out eBay listings to get an idea of value.
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Apr 29, 2013 18:25
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There's a small display at work with this coin, only description is "1900 gold coin."
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Apr 29, 2013 19:41
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That's a 1900 Liberty Head double eagle ($20 denomination) in uncirculated condition. Contains a little less than an ounce of gold and is worth $1700-1800.
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Apr 29, 2013 20:03
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 I always figured it was just some low value fake thing stuck in the display to look pretty!
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Apr 29, 2013 20:14
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My incomplete (due to lack of $$) Dansco 7070 album:                 
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May 4, 2013 13:16
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I have been collecting informally since middle school. While I haven't cared to look into the value of anything, two pieces have always piqued my curiosity. First off, a 1909 Lincoln Penny with V.D.B. markings.   I know that V.D.B. markings are of some significance and the some of these are worth some money, but I am not quite sure about the details. Second is a 1999 New Jersey Quarter with a misprint (missing 'R' in 'CROSSROADS'.) Never sure how misprints affect value. In either case, pretty neat.  Thanks.
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May 5, 2013 03:28
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w0nka posted:
It's not missing, it's just quite faint, and so this isn't going to be worth that much. It happens when a bit of debris gets caught in the die, and it's relatively common. It's not the same as a 'misprint' where the die was set up incorrectly.
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May 5, 2013 12:56
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I found a penny a couple weeks ago, on my wedding day (had the intention of taping it to my shoe but I forgot). It is really worn, and the edges are nonexistent. It's almost paper thin. The date says 1913 or 1918, it's a wheat penny. My father thinks it's a fake penny. Lincoln kinda looks like Pinocchio.   
Dead Pikachu fucked around with this message at 14:43 on May 5, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 14:41
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DominusDeus posted:My incomplete (due to lack of $$) Dansco 7070 album: Yeah completing a type set can be a pretty substantial investment, especially with the pre-Morgan silver dollars. Looks like you've got a good start though. Thanks for including both the obverse and reverse, I took my best stab at grading them and giving a rough valuation. 1805 Draped Bust half-cent G-4 w/pitting (corrosion): ~$40 1798 Draped Bust cent G w/pitting: ~$50 1826 Coronet cent VG-8: $20 1851 Coronet Braided Hair cent VF-XF: $20 1858(?) Flying Eagle cent FA-2: $5 1859 Indian Head cent AG-3: $5 1908 Indian Head cent MS: $20+ 1909 VDB Lincoln cent F-12 w/scratches: $5 1940 Lincoln cent AU-50: $3 1943 Steel cent MS: $2 1963 cent Proof: $3 1865 Two-cent piece G: $10 1853 3-cent piece G: $20 1868 3-cent piece F: $20 1829 Capped Bust half dime AG: $10 1853 Seated Liberty half dime AG-G: $7 1868 Shield nickel F: $20 1883 Liberty Head nickel VG: $5 1912 Liberty Head nickel VG: $2 1937 Buffalo nickel VF-XF: $5 1963 Jefferson nickel PF: $1 1944 War nickel VF: $1 1831 Capped Bust dime XF with nice toning: $60+ 1838 Seated Liberty dime VG: $10 1853 Seated Liberty dime XF: $30 1897 Barber dime F: $5 1937 Mercury dime VF: $2 1963 Roosevelt dime PF: $3 2005 dime: one dime 1838 Capped Bust quarter VF: $100 1856-O Seated Liberty quarter FA: $8 1853 Seated Liberty quarter AG: $10 1873 Seated Liberty quarter VG: $30 1894 Barber quarter F: $10 1917 Type 1 Standing Liberty quarter VF+: $30 1926-S Standing Liberty quarter VG: $10 1963 Washington quarter PF: $8 1985 quarter: face value 1836 Capped Bust half VF: $60 1876-S Seated Liberty half VF w/some toning: $70+ 1906 Barber half VG: $15 1943-S Walking Liberty half F: $12 1963 Franklin half PF w/fingerprint: $10 1964 Kennedy half MS: $15 1966 Kennedy half MS: $5 1982-S GW Commem Half w/some chemical damage PF: <$10 1986-S Statue Liberty Commem half PF: $5 1893 Columbian Expo Half XF: $15 1921-S Morgan XF: $30 1922-D Peace MS: $30 1978 Ike: Face value Total value: at least $867. Took me a while so I hope it's good news! w0nka posted:I have been collecting informally since middle school. While I haven't cared to look into the value of anything, two pieces have always piqued my curiosity. V.D.B. are the initials of the coin's designer, Victor David Brenner. When the Lincoln cent was first struck in 1909, including the designer's initials on the coin in such a prominent position was controversial. The Mint decided to remove the "VDB" midway into 1909, after millions of cents had already been struck and released into circulation. This makes the 1909-VDB coins more valuable. Unfortunately, the coins that are most valuable are those struck in San Francisco with an "S" mintmark below the date. Less than half a million of those made it to circulation and even the lowest grades are worth hundreds of dollars. Your coin lacks a mintmark so it was struck in Philadelphia, with a mintage of 28 million, but it's still worth about $15. Obdicut is right about your New Jersey quarter. It's a relatively common error with that particular quarter so probably not worth more than a couple bucks. Dead Pikachu posted:I found a penny a couple weeks ago, on my wedding day (had the intention of taping it to my shoe but I forgot). It is really worn, and the edges are nonexistent. It's almost paper thin. The date says 1913 or 1918, it's a wheat penny. Looks like an acid-treated penny to me. Is it about the diameter of a dime? People used to wear down pennies with acid to make them dime-sized for parking meters and vending machines. Also, I saw somebody accidentally created a new thread yesterday asking what their coins were worth instead of replying to this new one. If you're reading this, make sure to click the Reply button instead of Post. Ron Don Volante fucked around with this message at 21:59 on May 5, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 21:57
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Ron Don Volante posted:Yeah completing a type set can be a pretty substantial investment, especially with the pre-Morgan silver dollars. Looks like you've got a good start though. Thanks for including both the obverse and reverse, I took my best stab at grading them and giving a rough valuation. Thanks for going through all that. The peace dollar is one of the first coins I ever got, and it was payment to my grandmother for a dozen eggs durring the Great Depression (my grandparents on my dads side were born in 1894 and 1913, dad was born in 1959 (my grandfathers "last squirt" was apparently the joke) and died last November. And I was born late 1981). Or so my dad always said. The 1859 IHC is another of the firsts. It was the only "surviver" of my dad and his parents house that burnt (before I was born). I used to have an ANACS Trade Dollar, but had to sell it several years ago. Wish I hadn't. I've yet to get a replacement, as it was the only one I had. I've also yet to own a 20 cent piece.  I plan on getting some small coin stands this payday, setting up my light box, and taking some much better photos of my better coins, plus stuff not in my Dansco, including a couple large sized notes, and a 1499 dated 2 stuiver. A dated coin from a time when Columbus was still alive is awesome. About the same feeling I get from that 1798 cent in regards to Washington. I want another 18th century US coin, but drat those are expensive. DominusDeus fucked around with this message at 01:07 on May 6, 2013 |
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May 6, 2013 01:05
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Hope you guys like foreign coins! Got some fresh out of the vinegar bath.  From left to right: A Bulgarian 5 stotinki coin from 1962, a one Mil coin from the British Mandate of Palestine minted in 1927, and a South African 1/2 Rand coin from 1970.
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May 17, 2013 03:52
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^ Those are pretty neat, I especially like the Palestine one with Arabic/Hebrew/English. Would there be any interest if I started a SA Mart thread for selling coins? I could sell U.S. issues (unusual coins like the 3 cent piece, 20 cent piece, 2 cent, etc, birthyear sets, and nice examples of most of the coins in this thread) as well as other historical coins. Anything from the last 500 years or so--coins of Napoleon, Louis XIV, Cromwell, or any other monarchs/rulers. I'd be happy to hunt down pretty much anything semi-modern; I'd leave the ancient coins to Xenopus.
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May 27, 2013 04:24
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Ron Don Volante posted:Wondering how much those old coins you have lying around are worth? I can give you the answer! Close-up pictures of the obverse and reverse of the coin are best, but I can still give you a rough valuation with the following info: Glad to have found this thread! After my grandfather died I found an extensive coin collection that I never even knew he had. I am attached to them and probably wouldn't sell them, but I am rather curious about some of them. First, are indian head pennies worth anything? I have a bunch of those from certain dates, but I remember reading that *most* years are only worth about $3. Now on to the coins: One Cent - these are very big, larger than a quarter. Nearly everything is worn off except for the outline of the front and "one cent" across the back. One of them is very badly damaged with deep groove marks, but the other two are fine besides being worn off. The one with deep groves is a matron head and I can make out the date 181?. Another I can make out enough to tell it is a liberty head, but not date. I believe the other to be a matron head to. You can just make out the outline of the head on these, but again no date. (These decisions are based off of wikipedia pictures and me using a flashlight to look at them.) one cent (flying eagle) - 1857 - I don't see a mint mark? - the penny is very dark in the middle with the details (year, outer rim, and design) being a bit more shiny, the wings are harder to see than the body of the eagle. Otherwise is in good conditions. 2 cent coin - 1864 - i dont see a mint mark? - dark with some greening, but details are visible. Two small gouges along the outer rim. Are there any resources for international coins? I have a 10 cent coin from Italy 1863, a panama coin 1904. I've also got some pretty old British coins from various areas like a one shilling from India, one from west africa, etc. Thank you for any info! Also, how can I store these coins best so they do not deteriorate any further? Scenty fucked around with this message at 20:05 on May 27, 2013 |
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May 27, 2013 07:21
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Indian Head pennies can be worth quite a lot if they're in better condition, but most of the dates after 1880 aren't worth much more than a couple of dollars in average circulated condition (two notable exceptions being the 1908-S and 1909-S). Pennies from the 1870's and 60's are a different story. From the condition you've described, the large cents probably aren't worth much more than a couple bucks each. Visible dates are key to a coin's value. 1857 flying eagle cent: $10+ 1864 two cent piece: $5-10 As for international coins, you might check your local library for a copy of the Krause World Coins catalog, there's one for each century. The values they give you are pretty meaningless as the market for foreign coins is small, but they do give you some general info. I've got copies of the 19th century and 17th century editions. For storage, a cool, dry place is best. Mylar flips, available on Amazon, are fine for holding coins longterm. Avoid flips not clearly labelled either mylar, as there's a good chance they're made of PVC, which degrades over time and leaves a nasty green chemical coating on the coin. Ron Don Volante fucked around with this message at 01:40 on May 30, 2013 |
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May 28, 2013 00:32
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I'm sorry if you already covered this, but what are the basic rules about patina and cleaning up a coin? Is it always best to leave it in whatever condition you find it in? My mom has some old copper coins with the green verdigris on them, and one some the features are slightly obscured by it.
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May 28, 2013 10:36
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Obdicut posted:I'm sorry if you already covered this, but what are the basic rules about patina and cleaning up a coin? Is it always best to leave it in whatever condition you find it in? My mom has some old copper coins with the green verdigris on them, and one some the features are slightly obscured by it. Nine times out of 10, you don't want to clean a coin as that will decrease its value. Most patinas are considered a natural result of the aging process and should be left untouched, as cleaning often causes more problems than it solves. But if you're just keeping the coins for yourself and aren't likely to resell them, there are a couple of gentle cleaning methods you can use on copper coins. One is soaking the coins in olive oil or distilled water (fresh water each day) for a period of days before gently rinsing it off. Another method is to stick the coin inside a potato overnight. Whatever's in the starch (I'm not strong with chemistry) will break down the grime. You may want to try a test coin first though, as the potato method can sometimes turn your coin black instead. All that being said, I just want to reiterate that cleaning a coin can dramatically lower its value and polishing coins is even worse. But if you are going to do it, those are probably the least harsh methods.
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May 28, 2013 17:07
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Scenty posted:Are there any resources for international coins? I have a 10 cent coin from Italy 1863, a panama coin 1904. I've also got some pretty old British coins from various areas like a one shilling from India, one from west africa, etc. The most common way to store coins is to use 2x2 mylar in cardboard coin flips. They can be purchased online in bulk for just a couple cents each. Some people prefer to use 2x2 flexible plastic holders, and those work too. I collect German coins, as well as some other countries in smaller amounts. The NGC website has a world coin price guide that you can use as a reference. It has all of the exact same information that the Krause World Coin catalog will have. I think the only difference is that the physical catalog has additional values for a wider range of coin grades. With that being said, the prices can't be taken at face value. For the bulk of german coins, the prices are 20-50% higher than what you can actually get the coin for. I recently bought an NGC graded MS-63 1952E East German 10 pfennig on eBay for about 30 bucks. The price guide indicates that the coin is valued around 700 bucks at that grade. Did I get a good deal? No. It's probably worth about 30 bucks and the catalog is wrong. You really have to watch the market and get to know the market before you can really start making informed evaluations, but the catalogs can be a good starting point. As a general rule, each respective country is an expert on its own coins. The US has the best resources for US coins. England has the best resources for English coins, and Germany has the best resources on German coins. The Krause manual does not even approach the level of detail that we use for US coins, where different varieties of the same coin are treated differently. Each respective country will have it's own publications, and those will ultimately be the best source of information. 1863 Italy 10 cent - It's at least worth a few bucks, and can be worth considerably more if it's in good shape. 1904 Panama coin - Unless it's in an uncirculated grade, you would be hard pressed to find someone who cared about it beyond the "Oh, that looks neat, I'll give you a quarter for it" level of interest. British Colonial Coins - There is a decent market for these, and if they are sufficiently old and in good shape, then you may have some winners. English coins seem to be the most collected country in the US behind Canada and Mexico. Jimmy James fucked around with this message at 20:59 on May 29, 2013 |
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May 29, 2013 20:43
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Ron Don Volante posted:Indian Head pennies can be worth quite a lot if they're in better condition, but most of the dates after 1880 aren't worth much more than a couple of dollars in average circulated condition (two notable exceptions being the 1908-S and 1909-S). Pennies from the 1870's and 60's are a different story. Jimmy James posted:The most common way to store coins is to use 2x2 mylar in cardboard coin flips. They can be purchased online in bulk for just a couple cents each. Some people prefer to use 2x2 flexible plastic holders, and those work too. Thanks for the help you two! I really appreciate it. Everything is just about as I figured. The Italian coin is in pretty good darn shape, probably the best of the lot. The British Colonial ones also. I'm going to get some of the mylar/coin flip things. Like I said anyways, unless something was worth an absurd amount of money I wouldn't sell them anyway since they have sentimental value, but it is nice to know some info on them.
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May 30, 2013 09:20
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Ron Don Volante posted:Nine times out of 10, you don't want to clean a coin as that will decrease its value. Most patinas are considered a natural result of the aging process and should be left untouched, as cleaning often causes more problems than it solves. But if you're just keeping the coins for yourself and aren't likely to resell them, there are a couple of gentle cleaning methods you can use on copper coins. One is soaking the coins in olive oil or distilled water (fresh water each day) for a period of days before gently rinsing it off. Another method is to stick the coin inside a potato overnight. Whatever's in the starch (I'm not strong with chemistry) will break down the grime. You may want to try a test coin first though, as the potato method can sometimes turn your coin black instead. Yeah, I've picked up a lot of coins over time but I don't have any desire to sell them. I mainly just want to see what's under that crud on my mom's coins.
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May 31, 2013 14:42
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Ron Don Volante posted:skipdogg is right. U.S. dimes, quarters, and half dollars were all struck of silver through 1964 and have a distinctive color compared to modern nickel-plated copper coins. Half dollars from 1965 to 1970 are 40% silver. Nickels even had some silver content during WWII. Judging from your description, it's only worth melt value. But it's still worthwhile to check your change for silver coins, as $2 vs. 10cents isn't a bad deal. I was handed a 1964 quarter today, and before I even looked at my change I knew it was unusual. It just felt strange in my hand, probably because it's noticeably thicker than a modern quarter. Did I just win a $2 lottery?
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Jun 5, 2013 16:48
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Sammus posted:I was handed a 1964 quarter today, and before I even looked at my change I knew it was unusual. It just felt strange in my hand, probably because it's noticeably thicker than a modern quarter. Did I just win a $2 lottery? You just won a $4 lottery! At current silver prices, pre-65 dimes are worth $1.60, quarters $4, and half dollars $8.
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Jun 6, 2013 00:01
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That's pretty drat awesome! I'm going to make sure I don't spend it.
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Jun 6, 2013 04:06
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I've just started a thread in SA Mart to sell off a few extra coins from my collection. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3553350 I'd also be happy to find you a coin if there's something you're looking for, whether it's a coin from a certain ruler, country, historical period, or any one of the coins featured in this thread!
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Jun 8, 2013 18:52
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I was working my retail job today and when counting the drawer I noticed something odd in the pile of Nickels. I thought it was another bit of foreign currency that worked its way in, but instead it turns out it was an incredibly roughed up 1897 Nickel. Somebody must have had it in for Lady Liberty unfortunately because there are about 5 knife point stab marks all around her face. The thing is clearly burned as well but I suspect that would wash off without too much work. The markings on it are all still clear and I don't suspect it's worth anything especially given the condition, I was mostly just in awe at how old it was and that it managed to live in circulation that long. There's no mintmark to my knowledge. Did I stumble upon something pretty cool?
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Jun 9, 2013 04:36
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Shere posted:I was working my retail job today and when counting the drawer I noticed something odd in the pile of Nickels. I thought it was another bit of foreign currency that worked its way in, but instead it turns out it was an incredibly roughed up 1897 Nickel. Somebody must have had it in for Lady Liberty unfortunately because there are about 5 knife point stab marks all around her face. The thing is clearly burned as well but I suspect that would wash off without too much work. The markings on it are all still clear and I don't suspect it's worth anything especially given the condition, I was mostly just in awe at how old it was and that it managed to live in circulation that long. There's no mintmark to my knowledge. Did I stumble upon something pretty cool? Like a buck or two tops. Might get a few bucks extra to the right buyer. Don't try to clean it up.
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Jun 9, 2013 15:04
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It might not be worth much, but it's extremely rare to find a Liberty Head nickel (1883-1913) in circulation. It's rare enough to find a Buffalo nickel (1913-1938), but finding any sort of 19th century coin in circulation is a pretty awesome find.
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Jun 9, 2013 20:20
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Well, speaking of Buffalo nickels, guess what turned up in my store today:  Right is the aforementioned Libery Head, left being the new find. Of course the date is rubbed off which appears to be a design function of the damned things, which I assume torpedoes its value but otherwise I'm pretty happy. Mintmark is hard to see in blurry phone photos, but it's very clearly D under the buffalo. Maybe I should start a nickel collection! Do you have any suggestions for tastefully displaying coins while also protecting them? Solanumai fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Jun 21, 2013 |
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Jun 21, 2013 04:55
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I dont have a picture but my dad used to work at a place that used 2 dollar bills a lot and he found a set of 5 serialized 2 dollar bills with print errors, a white line down the middle on all 5. Is this set worth anything? We got offered like 30 bucks at a coin store when we were having a bucket of silver coins appraised.
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Jun 21, 2013 06:26
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Shere posted:Well, speaking of Buffalo nickels, guess what turned up in my store today: Nice find! And yeah, unfortunately the Buffalo nickel wasn't designed very well so the dates wore off quickly. As for displaying coins, you might check out Dansco coin albums. They're pretty high quality and make it easy to see both sides of the coin. Or, if you want something you can display on a wall, you could get a bulletin board and carefully place 3 or 4 pins around each coin to hold it in place. Washout posted:I dont have a picture but my dad used to work at a place that used 2 dollar bills a lot and he found a set of 5 serialized 2 dollar bills with print errors, a white line down the middle on all 5. Is this set worth anything? We got offered like 30 bucks at a coin store when we were having a bucket of silver coins appraised. I'm afraid I know very little about currency and even less about currency errors. It might be worth posting a picture of them on this forum to get more information (there are plenty of other online paper money/currency collecting forums as well).
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Jun 22, 2013 01:23
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I've got quite a few coins, although most of them are wheatbacks(which I suppose aren't worth too much), but a few are of interest. I've got two Indian Head Cents(one from 1893 in decent condition, the indian head is visible but tarnished and the face is almost worn off. I've got another from 1902 which is much easier to see but I can't find mint marks on either.). I've got a pretty worn steel penny with what looks like rust on both sides but you can still see Abe and read all the words. I've got a Indian head Buffalo nickel from 1935 in much the same condition as the steel penny(mint mark E). Funny story, I was working at a gas station when a woman walked in and asked for $4 in gasoline and paid with a $1 bill, 3 walking liberty half-dollars(1937,1939,1941), and 3 Ben Franklin half-dollars(1949, 1951, 1953) of varying qualities. Of course I changed out the coins(with my own money) considering she basically gave me $90 worth of silver. Stupid bitch. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Jun 23, 2013 04:13
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Jimmy James posted:...I collect German coins... Hiya, Any idea if this guy is worth anything? I found it chilling in the 'reject' tray of a Coinstar machine a few years ago (great place to find neat old coins, by the way).  
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Jun 23, 2013 20:33
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Augmented Dickey posted:Hiya, Jimmy James might be able to give you some more info, but that's a 1 pfenning coin of Prussia, pre-unification Germany. The B is a mintmark indicating it was minted in Bayreuth. The "360 einen thaler" means there were 360 pfenninge in a thaler, and the "scheide munze" seems to mean it's a fractional coinage. Looks like you could get a couple bucks for it on ebay. clownskull posted:I've got quite a few coins, although most of them are wheatbacks(which I suppose aren't worth too much), but a few are of interest. I've got two Indian Head Cents(one from 1893 in decent condition, the indian head is visible but tarnished and the face is almost worn off. I've got another from 1902 which is much easier to see but I can't find mint marks on either.). I've got a pretty worn steel penny with what looks like rust on both sides but you can still see Abe and read all the words. I've got a Indian head Buffalo nickel from 1935 in much the same condition as the steel penny(mint mark E). Yeah gently caress that dumb bitch, amirite? The Indian heads are each worth a couple bucks, the steel penny is worth less than a buck, the Buffalo nickel is worth a buck or two and the E is actually an F and is the designer's initial.
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Jun 24, 2013 01:54
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Augmented Dickey posted:Hiya, Thats a cool find for a coin star bin. Ron Don Volante got it about right when he said a couple bucks. The coin has some crud on it, lots of scratches, and is pretty beat up even though it does have some good defined details left. It's not something a collector would seek out, but just about any pre-German Empire coin that isn't worn flat is usually worth at least 1-3 bucks depending on how you are selling it. Prior to the unification of the German States to form the German Empire in 1871 for the Franco-Prussian War, Prussia was by far the largest and most dominant of the German States. As a result, the newly formed German Empire would adopt the Prussian eagle as the coat of arms for the Empire, as well as make the King of Prussia the leader of the new German Empire. As a result, Prussian coinage was the most minted and widely distributed coinage from that period. Even though the coin doesn't say Prussia, someone at the time would immediately recognize the coin as Prussian because of the eagle on the front. The coin has the single headed eagle looking left with the sceptre and orb in its claws, which is an image adopted from the Holy Roman Empire (Catholic Church) for use by Prussia hundreds and hundreds of years before. Prussia was part of the Holy Roman Empire until it dissolved in 1806, but there wasn't much confusion in the symbolism because the Holy Roman Empire had long before started using double headed eagle as their symbol. When the Holy Roman Empire dissolved, Austria was allowed to continue to use the double headed eagle (and still does to this day), but the rest of the German States did not and all began using their own coats of arms. Old German coin collectors usually fall into one of two categories. One group of people tends to only collect larger denomination gold and silver coins like thalers and ducats. They are very ornate and that time period/region probably had the best combination of the desire to create beautiful ornate coins and the ability to do so, when compared to other places and times in history. The other type of collector is one that tries to collect coins of as many different types from as many different issuing authorities in the German States/Holy Roman Empire region as possible. If you go back to the 1500s, there have been over 300 different issuing authorities, often called German States, that made their own unique coins. The second type of collector would be interested in your coin, but since there are so many of the coins it's not as high of a value as some of the others. There. That's way more information than you probably needed. By the way, I made a for sale thread on German Coins and world coins in the SA mart. I have a bunch of world coins I'll be listing if the thread generates any interest. Jimmy James fucked around with this message at 04:49 on Jun 25, 2013 |
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Jun 24, 2013 18:45
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Well funny enough... after I got home from work today I decided to go through the loose change containers I have, some of which have been sitting around for 25+ years after being inherited. I've found a ton of wheat pennies, nothing valuable really. 1938-58 with no steel pennies. Found a 1941 mercury dime in decent shape. And two half-dollars; '67 and '70  Pretty decent for not expecting to find anything at all. Now I've also got a 50 lb box of rolled coins from the same place as all those loose coins... I guess I gotta go through them now too!
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Jul 2, 2013 03:11
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I am hoping that someone might have an idea where to look about these. I have a pair of slightly over half ounce 28 kt gold medallions (over one ounce total from both) from the USSR commemorating the Luna-9 space missions. I will post a picture tomorrow but I am wondering how difficult it will likely be to find any info about them. I have brought them to a couple coin places and they were really interested in buying them but also said they had no idea about their worth etc. so were offering scrap price... I am thinking that they must have some value beyond scrap to someone interested in space poo poo but maybe not.
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Jul 2, 2013 17:02
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| # ? Apr 27, 2024 14:54 |
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I thought about display options and eventually went a little arts and crafts about it. I went to a local craft store and grabbed a nice (deeply set so there's plenty of room for coins) desktop tri-fold picture frame, a couple sheets of blue foam and some black felt for backing. I used some identical sized but less valuable coins to draw holes on the foam, cut out some snug holes for my coins and now they're sitting pretty nicely on my desk in the frame. Since you can only see one side, this works better if you have two of the same coin so you can do one facing each way. I can take pictures if anyone's interested. The frame is faced with glass and there shouldn't be anything harmful to the coins in the foam or felt. I'm just guessing here though. They sell double sided frames, but they're generally made to press two sheets of paper together, not enough room for a coin. Plus I feel like scraping glass directly against them is a bad way to go. Mine are just in a nice soft bed with glass in front of it. demonachizer posted:I am hoping that someone might have an idea where to look about these. I've only just started this coin thing but in my searching I can say that the 'problem' with gold stuff is that gold has shot up so much in value that except in extreme outlier cases most of it doesn't have collectible value that exceeds the melt value. Unfortunately I don't know where you could start with those, but pictures might help match them up to something online.
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Jul 2, 2013 17:31
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