|
Miuras or Solutions?
|
# ? Jun 22, 2013 15:34 |
|
|
# ? May 21, 2024 19:27 |
|
I have both (Miura VS), and climb equally well in either one. I got the solutions initially, and when I sent them off to be resoled I got a pair of Miuras. Get whichever fits you better.
|
# ? Jun 22, 2013 15:46 |
|
They're different shoes. What do you want out of them? I know guys who send hard in both. I would say the Solution is more a bouldering shoe. But that's just my opinion. I am a big fan of the lace/velcro combo closure system on the Solution
|
# ? Jun 22, 2013 23:08 |
|
Does anyone else have issues with their fingers blistering? I've been working a problem with (plastic) slopers lately and I'm developing blisters on the same spots pretty regularly. Taping reduces the damage but makes the moves noticeably harder. I've heard a lot of people talk about skin tearing but not so much about blistering. Is this par for the course or is it just my terrible sloper technique?
|
# ? Jun 23, 2013 02:48 |
|
Are you sure they're blisters and not callouses? When you hold slopers, you hit the hold then your fingers drag down slightly, causing the skin to bunch up at certain spots. If you do it enough, you'll notice that spot turn kinda white and rough (and maybe tender), which might be what you're talking about? If so, that's totally normal. Just climb until it's too painful to ignore, then move onto something else. When you come back the next time, your skin will be tougher and can handle a little more. Re: Miuras vs Solutions: Solutions on overhung, Miuras on flat/slab. Both are great shoes. I have a pair of each for different situations.
|
# ? Jun 23, 2013 04:22 |
|
Lead my first climb today, only a 5.7 but it felt pretty intense. I'm a complete gumby clipping draws though ugh.
|
# ? Jun 23, 2013 13:14 |
|
Tarnien posted:Are you sure they're blisters and not callouses? When you hold slopers, you hit the hold then your fingers drag down slightly, causing the skin to bunch up at certain spots. If you do it enough, you'll notice that spot turn kinda white and rough (and maybe tender), which might be what you're talking about? If so, that's totally normal. Just climb until it's too painful to ignore, then move onto something else. When you come back the next time, your skin will be tougher and can handle a little more. Thanks for the response. Perhaps blister is the wrong word but they're not calluses. The best way I can describe it is that it's like two layers of skin separating without the top layer tearing off. It's a pretty distinct feeling when it happens. The result is a circular patch of connected but loose skin. If I keep climbing on it the loose skin tears off. My hands are pretty well callused already but perhaps not where this is occurring, on the skin between the top two knuckles on several fingers. Hopefully the skin will toughen up to the point where it stops being a problem.
|
# ? Jun 24, 2013 02:05 |
|
Grisly Grotto posted:Lead my first climb today, only a 5.7 but it felt pretty intense. I'm a complete gumby clipping draws though ugh. 5.7 is pretty awesome for a first lead! Pretty sure that smooth clipping only comes with practice. Coming from a trad background I always look for a comfortable stance to give me plenty of time to muck about before I clip. I'm rubbish at leading though so there may be a better way.
|
# ? Jun 24, 2013 02:15 |
|
Year of the Monkey posted:5.7 is pretty awesome for a first lead! Pretty sure that smooth clipping only comes with practice. Coming from a trad background I always look for a comfortable stance to give me plenty of time to muck about before I clip. I'm rubbish at leading though so there may be a better way. Yeah I was pretty stoked. It was my first clean send outside too - the increased incentive not to fall vs. top-rope helped with that, heh. Kinda depressing how bad I am on real rock though - I can climb 5.11 in the gym, but I'm a complete scrub outside because I can't read the routes. Year of the Monkey posted:Is this par for the course or is it just my terrible sloper technique? Are you actually slipping off the holds? I've had a couple of flappers from working a problem a lot & slipping off a ton. I think it's the sliding friction that does it.
|
# ? Jun 24, 2013 09:22 |
|
Year of the Monkey posted:Thanks for the response. Perhaps blister is the wrong word but they're not calluses. The best way I can describe it is that it's like two layers of skin separating without the top layer tearing off. It's a pretty distinct feeling when it happens. The result is a circular patch of connected but loose skin. If I keep climbing on it the loose skin tears off. My hands are pretty well callused already but perhaps not where this is occurring, on the skin between the top two knuckles on several fingers. Hopefully the skin will toughen up to the point where it stops being a problem. One night where I was practicing dynos to slopers for height I ended up literally wearing a hole into one of my fingertips, there's also an issue of splitting skin if you like to climb too soon after showering/being very wet.
|
# ? Jun 24, 2013 13:45 |
|
I've luckily never gotten a flapper in 3 years. Feels good man.
|
# ? Jun 24, 2013 23:40 |
|
I have worn my fingers down so far that the pads bleed though. Just no big ugly flappers
|
# ? Jun 24, 2013 23:41 |
|
TotallyUnoriginal posted:I have worn my fingers down so far that the pads bleed though. Just no big ugly flappers I did something like that a couple of years ago: Not very conducive to climbing. Grisly Grotto posted:Are you actually slipping off the holds? I've had a couple of flappers from working a problem a lot & slipping off a ton. I think it's the sliding friction that does it. Not slipping off exactly but perhaps slipping a little whilst on the holds. Worked the slopers a bit more today and my fingers seem okay so perhaps my skin is toughening up.
|
# ? Jun 26, 2013 13:04 |
|
Does anyone know of ridiculously easy routes around Denver, or suggestions for particular places to look? I'd like to take my boy scout troop climbing - they are skinny little 13 year olds with no climbing experience, so I am looking for something equivalent to 5.4 or 5.5
|
# ? Jun 26, 2013 17:44 |
|
You could look at the Flatirons maybe? They can be more of a scramble or a climb depending on routefinding. EDIT: Also, Bentgate down in Golden is having a 4th of July sale right now, and I'm pretty sure it's actually better in-store than online. Good time to look for a new rope.
|
# ? Jun 26, 2013 18:41 |
|
Speleothing posted:You could look at the Flatirons maybe? They can be more of a scramble or a climb depending on routefinding. Hot drat. I never get down to Golden, though. IfIWereARichMan posted:Does anyone know of ridiculously easy routes around Denver, or suggestions for particular places to look? I'd like to take my boy scout troop climbing - they are skinny little 13 year olds with no climbing experience, so I am looking for something equivalent to 5.4 or 5.5 You could always hit a gym. The Auraria Campus gym has a small climbing area that could work. You could also hit Denver Bouldering Club if bouldering is an acceptable substitute. I haven't climbed enough for the flatirons area or Boulder canyon (roped climbing) to know where the best beginner areas are.
|
# ? Jun 27, 2013 03:56 |
|
Canal zone in clear creek has a set of 4 5.8's right next to each other that could work. Most kids can handle that level.
|
# ? Jun 27, 2013 05:17 |
|
Do you have shoes? Because even a 5.6 could be drat near impossible for beginners if they're wearing sneakers. quote:Golden I should have been a little more clear - the prices aren't better, I just think there are some brands that are store only
|
# ? Jun 27, 2013 21:55 |
|
Sorry if this has come up before, but anyone here done any deep water soloing? It basically looks like the most fun it's possible to have. If so! - Did you need any equipment? Looking at some videos it seems like people are sometimes abseiling down to the routes. I boulder pretty much exclusively, which is why I like the idea of soloing - can you just rock up somewhere, start climbing and have the sea underneath if you fall, or is it a whole lot more complicated? - Did it completely gently caress up your shoes? Do I need an old pair just for this, or can I just dry them out with a hairdryer or whatever between dunkings and expect them to last? - Any UK climbers been anywhere fun? From a quick look around it seems like we have a poo poo load down in Devon and Dorset.
|
# ? Jun 27, 2013 23:52 |
|
Magnus Manfist posted:Sorry if this has come up before, but anyone here done any deep water soloing? It basically looks like the most fun it's possible to have. The need to rappel is totally dependant on the route, though to be safe you'll want to find routes where you're at least going to traverse around the base. You need to worry about how deep the water is and whether you might catch a ledge on the way down. Your shoes will be fine. Better, maybe, depending on how much they needed a wash/smelled. Just let them air dry. No idea about places to go in the UK. Edit: if it's okay for cliff-diving, it will be very safe for climbing. Ask around the local college to see if they know any good spots. Speleothing fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Jun 28, 2013 |
# ? Jun 28, 2013 00:19 |
|
First-timer question: I should wear socks with rental shoes right?
|
# ? Jun 28, 2013 15:43 |
|
Sleepstupid posted:First-timer question: I should wear socks with rental shoes right? I never did and didn't get any crazy foot diseases. Socks with climbing shoes is just weird
|
# ? Jun 28, 2013 16:09 |
|
Sleepstupid posted:First-timer question: I should wear socks with rental shoes right? Experienced climbers don't wear socks with climbing shoes, primarily because you want the shoe to be tight fitting and not shift at all. If you are just starting and renting shoes, chances are that having socks on with them really won't make much of a difference in your climbing ability. If you decide to wear socks with them, just make sure you rent shoes in a size that fits snugly over the socks. You don't want any room in the toe box, and you want the shoes to be laced (or velcro'd) tight against your foot so it can't shift around when you weight it. That said, all the climbing gyms I know of spray rental shoes with disinfectant spray so you really shouldn't catch anything from them. In the summer though climbing shoes get smelly and gross, so I would probably wear socks with rentals.
|
# ? Jun 28, 2013 16:52 |
|
Sleepstupid posted:First-timer question: I should wear socks with rental shoes right? Yes. When you're serious enough to go barefoot for that little bit extra, you're probably serious enough to buy your own pair. Having your feet reek of someone ele's feet after a session is disgusting. One time I took a buddy to my gym for his first time bouldering. On the drive home, he was in the back seat, and I heard him scream, "DEAR GOD NO". I turned just in time to see him throw his socks out the window like they were on fire.
|
# ? Jun 29, 2013 02:05 |
|
Baldbeard posted:Yes. Climbing shoes tend to accumulate bits of rubber and other disgusting things inside the footbed. Climbing shoes are not generally designed with a black footbed.... Would not advise white socks.
|
# ? Jun 29, 2013 03:56 |
|
Trip report: Didn't wear socks . Didn't contract any horrible foot smells/diseases .
|
# ? Jul 1, 2013 15:29 |
|
Sleepstupid posted:Trip report: Didn't wear socks . Didn't contract any horrible foot smells/diseases . Unless its one of those diseases with like a 10 year gestation period.
|
# ? Jul 1, 2013 15:45 |
|
Sleepstupid posted:Trip report: Didn't wear socks . Didn't contract any horrible foot smells/diseases . Gross.
|
# ? Jul 1, 2013 15:56 |
|
Finally on summer holiday for the year and super psyched because im gonna go climb in Parisella's cave AKA the Cave of Justice for the first time. Not somewhere Id imagine non UK Goons will have heard of but its a pretty legendary place for hard UK bouldering. Anyone spent any time there?
|
# ? Jul 1, 2013 16:12 |
|
Dumbdog posted:Finally on summer holiday for the year and super psyched because im gonna go climb in Parisella's cave AKA the Cave of Justice for the first time. Not somewhere Id imagine non UK Goons will have heard of but its a pretty legendary place for hard UK bouldering. Anyone spent any time there? Never been, I'm very jealous though!
|
# ? Jul 1, 2013 16:20 |
|
What ought my budget to be for a pair of entry level shoes geared towards bouldering? I've started going to the Circuit (PDX whatuuuppp) and it's clearly going to be more cost-effective if I just go all in.
|
# ? Jul 1, 2013 20:24 |
|
You can find cheap as hell Evolvs online. Same with 5.10s. Keep an eye on Steep/Cheep and the like. You'll see stuff for cheap (sub-$80) eventually.
|
# ? Jul 1, 2013 20:27 |
|
Get something Velcro (rather than lace up), something a bit downturned, but not to a ridiculous degree (ie not shamans/solutions/boostics/dragons), reasonably priced (sub 100) and preferably not evolv (stank nasty). I started out with the boosters i think. Miuras and Talons are other popular choices I think, and the Talons are usually on super sale.
|
# ? Jul 1, 2013 23:42 |
|
Goddamn rain ruining my goddamn Foster Falls trip. Do you chatty locals think it'll be worth a drive up from Florida this weekend? We've already gotten a bunch of bunks reserved at the Crashpad
|
# ? Jul 2, 2013 02:24 |
|
Fuligin posted:What ought my budget to be for a pair of entry level shoes geared towards bouldering? I've started going to the Circuit (PDX whatuuuppp) and it's clearly going to be more cost-effective if I just go all in. My recommendation for starting bouldering shoes for people is pretty much always the Mad Rock Flash. The Flash 2.0 came out relatively recently and is nothing but improvement on the old model. I've always hated the Evolv Defy with a passion, I really think it's an awful shoe and Mad Rock really gives you bang-for-your-buck with the Flash, which just feels better on all fronts (for me, at least). You can probably find them cheaper than $83 on other sites.
|
# ? Jul 2, 2013 04:24 |
|
gamera009 posted:You can find cheap as hell Evolvs online. Same with 5.10s. Keep an eye on Steep/Cheep and the like. You'll see stuff for cheap (sub-$80) eventually. To add to cheap shoes, https://www.theclymb.com has some great deals if you feet are the right size. It's gilt.com for outdoors stuff, if anyone wants an invite PM me or email me I guess. myusername@gmail.com I'm going camping / climbing at Vedauwoo for the first time this weekend, super psyched! Off-widths here I come
|
# ? Jul 3, 2013 01:49 |
|
For content, I was in St. George, Utah visiting relatives a few weeks ago. I have driven though Zion national park a few years ago and wanted to go back so... I hired a guide and took my son and myself canyoneering! It was awesome, we technically were not in Zion as the park does not allow guided trips (sounds dumb, but whatever). We did two canyons, a total of like 10 repels and a bunch of downclimbing and slot squeezing. It was amazing, like nothing else like I have done on rock. Our guide even put up a top rope for us, we did not have shoes but climbed a few easy, fun routes nonetheless. This is the only pic I have handy, my son got better ones: I would love to go out and do more someday, those guys do some crazy stuff. Any canyoneers in this thread?
|
# ? Jul 3, 2013 02:08 |
|
spandexcajun posted:I would love to go out and do more someday, those guys do some crazy stuff. Any canyoneers in this thread?
|
# ? Jul 3, 2013 03:29 |
|
Any Boulder goons want to get out on Sunday?
|
# ? Jul 6, 2013 18:28 |
|
|
# ? May 21, 2024 19:27 |
|
A 12 year old Italian climber died today after a sling failure 8( http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68190
|
# ? Jul 6, 2013 19:35 |