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 ACE'S TRUCK HAS NO RUST  Finished trimming the fenders to clear the new rocker replacement / rock guard rails today and we got the whole thing put back together. Trimming them to clear resulted in the bottom rear corners of the fenders flapping in the breeze, so I just drilled a couple holes in some pieces of 1/4" flat stock and welded them onto the tops of the rock rails as mounting tabs, worked great. Also, the prototype fuel level sender signal converters have been assembled and are ready for final testing and some more firmware work. A few minor changes to the hardware will be required before I start making these, but they came out pretty nicely for barebones prototype-grade boards with no silkscreen and no soldermask. Then a plug wire ended up loose on the distributor cap and arced to the VFM housing, and now the tach, oil pressure, and coolant temp gauges have gone out to lunch and the rear blinkers and brake lights joined them. No loving idea how that's all related, but I found my favorite cache of quality Toyota 4runner/hilux wiring diagrams so we're going to curse at it a bit tomorrow.
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Jun 23, 2013 09:29
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Holy poo poo man, how did I not read this thread before. You are living the life sir, and are a hero to us all.
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Jun 24, 2013 03:59
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I dunno about that, but it's been a fun ride so far... Alright, I've already posted the 1980s yeti evidence grade pictures, time for the quality ones I took today. Left rock slider/rocker replacement, street view:  The view poor innocent rocks will get, right before they are ground into dust:  (kindly forgive the horrible boogery welds in some places, overhead welding rust pocked 22ga japanese sheetmetal to 1/4" steel plate with .035 fluxcore wire is like attempting to stick wet toilet paper to a cement block with a machine gun) Right, street view:  Right, rock view:  As usual, click for larger images. These replaced some horribly rotted cab sills. They're 2x6 inch structural steel tubing with 1/4" thick walls, supported by 2x2 structural tubing with 1/4" walls to the frame. Instead of welding directly to the frame I bored holes through and welded 0.75x0.120" DOM tubing slugs through both walls of the frame, then made brackets that bolt to them using 1/2" grade 8 bolts. You can easily pick up either side of the truck by the rock rail, but being bolted on, if the cab ever needs to be pulled for repairs, 4 bolts come out and it lifts right off. All rust (well, all that could be reached) was removed and any floor/frame/sill sections required were either cut from a rust free junkyard donor truck or fabricated from scratch. Every cavity that isn't 100% airtight has been painted inside using Eastwoods internal chassis coating and/or Rustoleum rust converting primer/paint with the special Eastwoods internal chassis coating remote spray head, so it shouldn't rust out from the inside again this time. Painted it all with black/metallic flake Hammerite, my favorite paint for portions of a vehicle that will be engaging in full-contact sports as it goes on thick and has a finish that hides scratches and repainted sections well.
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Jun 24, 2013 04:31
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kastein posted:
This is the BEST analogy. That looks amazing - though with past discussions about structural integrity and shear forces, etc - is grade 8 sufficient for something that's going to be hammered from various angles?
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Jun 24, 2013 09:43
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God drat that is a work of art
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Jun 24, 2013 14:20
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ssjonizuka posted:This is the BEST analogy. That looks amazing - though with past discussions about structural integrity and shear forces, etc - is grade 8 sufficient for something that's going to be hammered from various angles? The ARB steps and scrub bars on my old hilux are only held on with Grade 8.8 hardware and I had the entire weight of the truck leaning on them at one point and they didnt even flinch. You'd love an aussie hilux Kastein, generally the only rust is where theres surface rust where the paint in the tray has been rubbed off!
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Jun 24, 2013 14:26
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Alright. Prepare for massive hardware sperging. SAE bolt grades: 2 - lag bolts, lovely things, stuff you really don't give a gently caress about. Consistency: a well aged cheese is comparable. I have accidentally twisted off a 1/2" grade 2 or 3 lag bolt screwed into wood... using a regular 3/8 ratchet. 3 - slightly better than 2. Still cheese. Neither 2 nor 3 belong on a car anywhere. At all. 5 - your garden variety nuts and bolts. Minimum yield tensile strength is 92ksi* for bolts under 1" diameter, 120ksi ultimate strength (AKA the bolt will break at this.) 8 - high strength, hardened. 120ksi minimum yield tensile strength, 150ksi ultimate strength. Please note that the minimum yield tensile strength of grade 8 is the same/higher than the ultimate strength of a grade 5. This is why dumb motherfucking rednecks who say  BUT A GRADE 5 BOLT IS MORE FLEXIBLE SO IT WILL JUST STRETCH INSTEAD OF BREAKING, YOU SHOULD USE EM FOR SUSPENSION poo poo MANG are wrong and should feel bad, because yes, it does stretch and stay in one piece, but then it breaks right before a grade 8 would have even started to stretch. Don't let people get away with propagating that kind of bullshit info because people who don't know any better and read/believe it could literally die as a result if they follow that bad advise.ISO Property Classes: As usual, ISO/metric is better/more logical. SAE/imperial stuff is all about "numbers" and arbitrarily chosen "grades" and arcane poo poo that involves wire gauges based on the size of wire dies that were created in the 1800s and are based on how much you can stretch wire through a die without it snapping. ISO stuff is all numeric and literally tells you exactly what you need to know right in the spec. Example: ISO Property Class 4.8 bolt. 4 is the Ultimate Strength spec. Multiply by 100MPa to get your bolt's ultimate tensile strength, AKA this property class is 400MPa ultimate tensile strength. That's around 58ksi. 8 is the percentage of the ultimate strength at which the bolt begins to yield. In this case, 80%. Most cheap bolts are going to be a .8 yield strength. In this case, 80% of 400MPa is 320MPa yield strength, or 46ksi. ISO PC 4.8 - Harbor Freight uses this poo poo to bolt their tools together. Not even kidding, look at the heads on their bolts next time you go there, you'll see a lot of 4.8 stamps. 400MPa/58ksi ultimate strength, 320MPa/46ksi yield strength. For reference, that means an 8mm diameter bolt (even assuming no stress riser from the threads) has an ultimate tensile strength of around 20kN, or approx. 4500lbs tension. That may sound like a lot, but remember that every turn of an M8-1.0 bolt at, say, 18 foot pounds, moves the bolt 1mm. When you work the numbers out, assuming no friction, going from "surfaces in contact, no torque" to turning the bolt ONE FULL TURN will put a tension of 25kN or 5500lbs tension on it. How many people have given an M8 bolt an extra turn just for good measure? Don't use ISO PC 4.8 bolts for anything except trim and mounting your ECU bracket. ISO PC 8.8 - this is roughly comparable to an SAE grade 5 and used in all the same places. 800MPa ultimate strength, 640MPa yield strength. That's 93ksi yield, 116ksi ultimate. ISO PC 10.9 - this is roughly comparable to an SAE grade 8 and used in all the same places. 1GPa ultimate strength, 900MPa yield strength. Again, 900MPa yield of this property class bolt is higher than the ultimate strength of an 8.8 at 800MPa, so again, these bolts won't even start stretching by the time an 8.8 has already broken. Don't believe anyone who tells you you can substitute an 8.8 for a 10.9 unless you have a deathwish or run the numbers and determine the preload you'll get given the bolt's torque spec, then make sure it won't overload the bolt just by torquing it, or worse, overload the bolt as soon as a shock load is put on it. ISO PC 12.9 - ungodly hard. Very critical suspension bolts are typically this grade. 1.2GPa ultimate strength, 1.08GPa yield strength. As usual, these have a yield strength that's over the ultimate strength of the next lower grade bolt, so don't substitute 10.9s in place of 12.9s without carefully verifying that the specs are still met, because a 10.9 will break before a 12.9 even stretches. </bolt  >What I do in real life: use grade 8s, ISO PC 10.9s, and ISO PC 12.9s for everything, and then jump on the breaker bar. Torqued to spec. * Note that this is a force per area measurement, not just a force measurement, you NEED an effective cross sectional area to multiply it by to find your actual bolt tensile strength.
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Jun 24, 2013 15:42
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Please post pictures of the bolt heads so I know what I am looking at and how to read bolts and the corresponding number of "BAPS" they can stand up to from an impact on setting 3 thanks.
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Jun 24, 2013 16:21
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Pictures here: http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx Torquing bolts with impact: 25 to 35 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! 35 to 45 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! 45 to 60 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BA... BAP! BAP! BAP! 60 to 75 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BA… 75 to 90 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! 90 to 100 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! 110 to 300 ft/lbs ALL GUNS BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! [repeat until compressor tank empty or beer depleted] Your mileage may vary depending on compressor and impact wrench brand, setting, configuration, phase of the moon, beers consumed, bolt accessibility, and vehicle brand/country of origin. e: oh. I forgot. Last night we got all the electrical issues sorted, too. Turns out the tail lights not being functional was due to the sockets corroding over the last 6 months. So we took turns sitting upside down under the dashboard messing with the switches and wires and watching the DMM to get the brake light switch and harnesses debugged all for nothing, but at least it was an easy fix, just some sandpaper and dielectric grease in the sockets and it worked again. The instruments not working turned out to be a coincidence, too. There are two pins on the back of the cluster for 12 volt switched power to the instruments, one runs all the gauges that still worked and the other runs all the gauges that didn't work anymore. I looked at the wiring diagram and determined that they're both fed from the same source, just spliced a few inches back in the harness from the connectors, so removing the connectors (had to tear down the whole dashboard to get to it) retensioning and cleaning the pins and then reassembling it fixed the whole mess. kastein fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Jun 24, 2013 |
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Jun 24, 2013 16:27
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Well, today I got the rest of the things I needed to complete my brazing equipment set, and decided it was high time I practice brazing. The first project I'll be needing to braze for is making the custom shift cam for my 2-lo NP231 conversion, and I had a scrap NP231 shift cam, so I decided it was a good idea to practice on it first. Started by grinding all the hardening and crummy oil soaked metal off the edge of the cam where I'd be brazing to it. Then fired up the torch and started melting metal...   (click for big) Came out decently for a first try, I need a bit more practice but I think it'll do. I need to grind it down to shape and see how it looks. Stacking braze that high (around 1/2-3/4" tall, and only 1/4" thick after finish grinding) sure was interesting, I had to use the torch flame to sorta push the molten metal upward when I needed to fill in holes further down on the side. Next time I'll have to change my method so it stacks the right thickness the first time around.
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Jun 27, 2013 03:01
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Slow is Fast posted:Please post pictures of the bolt heads so I know what I am looking at and how to read bolts and the corresponding number of "BAPS" they can stand up to from an impact on setting 3 thanks. Fun fact: I learned to read sae bolt heads from a Haynes manual. Yup- its in there.
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Jun 27, 2013 04:11
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The world's worst picture of my MJ on a fieldstone arch bridge I found over a stream in a ravine on a local trail. This is actually a public road that I'm parked on... I have driven over this dozens of times and never even realized it was a bridge. If you look closely you can see a UFO abducting a yeti just behind my truck.
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Jun 27, 2013 16:22
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It looks like I am building a shop press instead of buying one. Why? I was seconds from buying the 12 ton one at Harbor Freight when I realized the store floor model one had the drive pin (you know, that bit that actually pushes on what you're pressing and should be nice and vertical) welded onto the baseplate something like 3-4 degrees from vertical. Didn't inspire much confidence. HF press: $130 Amount I just spent on 8' of C3-5# heavy wall C channel and 4 27" sections of C6-8.2# light C channel: $80.75 Amount spent on return springs and random hardware: $12 I already own a 12 ton bottle jack and have a few dozen 1/2" grade 8 bolts, assorted other metal stock, and 3 or so feet of cold roll 1" round rod to finish the project off. So it looks like I'm going to end up spending about as much as I would have on the HF press to build the frame for a much higher quality press that uses my existing bottle jack. Would have rather bought one, but a good one isn't in the budget and a poo poo HF one isn't something I want to try and use.
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Jul 3, 2013 22:25
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kastein posted:If you look closely you can see a UFO abducting a yeti just behind my truck. They're obscured by the low level chem trails.
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Jul 3, 2013 22:35
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Here's the plan for the press: Legend: black beam = C3 heavy C channel 48" long red beam = C6 light C channel (topmost short pieces may end up being something else, lower sections are 27" long) green beam = 2x3x0.250" rectangular tube blue line = 1/2" HR plate grey bar = 1" or possibly 1.5" or 2" round rod green dot = 1/2" hitch pin red dot = 1/2" grade 8 bolt black dot = 1" hole for 1" hitch pin formed from 1" CR round rod red vertical poo poo = return springs and 12 ton hydraulic bottle jack It should end up standing around 6 feet tall with a total inside capacity of ~24" wide, ~36" tall. Objects less than 3" wide (axleshafts, etc) can be more than 36" tall and still fit by passing them between the two workpiece support beams. I've designed it so that I can swing the right side of the press frame open to put it around something that needs to be pressed instead of passing the object through the body of the press intact - for instance, if I need to press something into one side rail of a truck frame. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Jul 3, 2013 |
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Jul 3, 2013 23:12
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After completely destroying a bench top vice (due to using it as a press with a jack handle) and buying my dad the best one they sell at sears, I completely understand the valve of a well built one. At the same time I am sad you are doing it cheap/proper/quick instead of us ripping hydrolic rams out of a retard van at the junkyard and going forward that way.
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Jul 4, 2013 05:17
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The rams out of those vans aren't anywhere near strong enough IMO. Those systems run at what, 2500psi maximum, with a piston diameter of ~1.25-1.5"? That's 4500lbs force per cylinder, even doubling all those numbers it wouldn't be as strong as my bottle jack is. I still want to do something with handicap van hydraulics, but I have a feeling it'll be more along the lines of a hydraulic attachment for a tubing bender or a sheetmetal brake. I need a tube bender (if I can't borrow a friend's gottrikes/jd2 plan built one) because there is no loving way I am paying the kind of price pros ask to do a cage, and the comanche will most definitely need one whenever I rebuild it. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Jul 4, 2013 08:36
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Slow is Fast posted:After completely destroying a bench top vice (due to using it as a press with a jack handle) and buying my dad the best one they sell at sears, I completely understand the valve of a well built one. kastein posted:The rams out of those vans aren't anywhere near strong enough IMO. Those systems run at what, 2500psi maximum, with a piston diameter of ~1.25-1.5"? That's 4500lbs force per cylinder, even doubling all those numbers it wouldn't be as strong as my bottle jack is. Using a shop press manually is terrifying enough, what with the pumping, the hiding, the pumping some more and then the horrible explosion that makes everyone in a 5 mile radius hide in terror. With power, you would lose all feel for the work, which would be unsafe IMHO. It would be too easy to put way too much force on an object way too quickly. That being said, simple AC powered hydraulic reservoirs and pumps are available for car lifts, although those probably also don't generate the pressure necessary. Lifting a car is a lot different from concentrating 12 tons on a 1" wide point.
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Jul 4, 2013 15:50
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ACEofsnett posted:Using a shop press manually is terrifying enough, what with the pumping, the hiding, the pumping some more and then the horrible explosion that makes everyone in a 5 mile radius hide in terror. The bang that an unissued romie ask barrel pin makes when you press it out with a 40 ton shop press can be heard across a half acre factory. Ask me how I know.
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Jul 4, 2013 17:00
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Ozmiander posted:The bang that an unissued romie ask barrel pin makes when you press it out with a 40 ton shop press can be heard across a half acre factory. Ask me how I know. I bent the needle on the dial indicator of my friend's 20 ton when it finally decided to let go. Based on the noise I assumed I broke the entire press, had shards of it in my chest and just didn't feel it yet due to shock. Imagine my surprise when my eyes opened again and it actually did what I wanted it to do with minimal damage. (yes, I bought him a new gauge)
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Jul 4, 2013 17:14
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Ozmiander posted:The bang that an unissued romie ask barrel pin makes when you press it out with a 40 ton shop press can be heard across a half acre factory. Ask me how I know. Oh how sweet. Last time I pressed something out it was the pinion from a crane wheel using a 2000 ton spotting press. It registered 1700t peak before it dropped out.
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Jul 4, 2013 18:19
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Cakefool posted:Oh how sweet. Last time I pressed something out it was the pinion from a crane wheel using a 2000 ton spotting press. It registered 1700t peak before it dropped out. That has to be a horrifying sound.
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Jul 4, 2013 18:25
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Nah, just a little squeal then a loud BONG when it dropped. I missed a good noise last night though, the spindle jammed at full speed in our 5m 3 axis mill. Apparently it sounded like "All the gods in pain". gently caress knows what that'll cost to put right.
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Jul 4, 2013 20:49
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Ozmiander posted:The bang that an unissued romie ask barrel pin makes when you press it out with a 40 ton shop press can be heard across a half acre factory. Ask me how I know. Oh cheap romie g kits. I remember those days. I didn't have a press and built mine with machine screws. In retrospect, only like 2 out of the 5 we built worked right.
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Jul 4, 2013 22:04
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It is way too god drat hot to be outside fabricating, why did I think this was a good idea? At least it is cooling down now and the sun has gone down. I only have about 50 more 1/2" holes to drill in this drat C channel and an hour or so of welding before the press is done.
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Jul 6, 2013 01:23
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Here's some pics of the shop press in-progress. First I got the top crossbeams drilled, as well as the tops of the two vertical beams, and bolted them together. Got them very very close to square.  Drilled 1/2" holes about every 3" (using the bottom/work support crossbeams as guides) for the bolts or hitch pins holding the work support crossbeams up.  Was a dumbass and attempted to "wallow out" the holes slightly with my 1/2" chuck Milwaukee gear reduction hand drill - without the second handgrip in place. It grabbed more than I expected on the third hole or so and nearly broke my wrist.  (I can't recommend this drill enough. It is the honey badger of hand drills. I have used it to put dozens of 7/8" holes in a 120 year old 6" thick oak beam with a ship augur, going straight through embedded nails. I have used a ship augur to bore holes through the ceramic matrix of a blocked up catalytic converter with it. I have bored holes in anything and everything I have ever needed to bore holes in, and it has never so much as blinked, it just goes straight through without stopping. I do recommend the handgrip though, my wrist is gonna hurt like hell tomorrow I'm sure.) What it'll look like when done (except with the bottle jack actually properly attached to the upper frame over it that it'll press against)  I can't decide if I should call it a night and finish in the morning (when it'll be hot out) or finish it as much as I can now while it's cool out, but end up going to sleep at some ridiculous hour. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Jul 6, 2013 04:39
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Depends on if you'd rather work in the heat, or sleep in the heat.
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Jul 6, 2013 04:52
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Well, that's a good point... but thinking about it, the next few steps are going to require running the 14" abrasive cutoff chopsaw, which is liable to really anger my neighbors seeing as it is now midnight. So I guess I probably should wait till tomorrow morning for that. Either way, I have two differential ring/pinion setups to do tomorrow evening and Sunday and this press (assuming I finish it in time) should really help out with that. I've needed a shop press so many times and not had one... no more.
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Jul 6, 2013 04:56
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Shop press is only a few small welds and return springs from being done. Prepping the hydro jack baseplate for welding the press pushrod on  Check out my shaft (this is actually part of a broken passenger front axleshaft from a 1997 jeep cherokee. It was on the scrap pile and is a reasonably solid alloy steel with a lathe center indent on the end, so I figured it'd work nicely.)  Beveled the poo poo out of the end before welding it on. In fact I actually beveled it even deeper than this, ended up doing 4 passes iirc. They turned out like poo poo but I don't think it'll fall off.  Weld picture dump starts here   Welding these seams was a bastard. Vertical up, but sandwiched between two plates 3" apart. Had to hold the gun upside down and hit the trigger with my pinky finger. Not sure how I'm going to clean them off, probably the air needler or an alligator toothbrush.  Welding overhead with fluxcore is fun.  One upright fully welded in, other one placed and clamped but not welded  Checking to make sure top crossbar is level/square  Partway through welding second upright in  Not bad for 1/4 plate to 1/4 plate lap joint done overhead with fluxcore .035 at 100 amps. I love it when the flux peels off easily by poking it with a piece of welding wire, means the weld came out very smooth.  Test fitting before welding top crossbar on (I sized the opening for the largest Big Red bottle jack available - the 20 ton. They sell up to a 50 ton.)  As it stands right now.  Just need to install the return springs and it's basically done. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Jul 7, 2013 |
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Jul 7, 2013 03:05
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And maybe something on the legs to stop it falling on you?
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Jul 7, 2013 04:26
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 it doesn't need those. Really I just haven't decided what form the legs are going to take.Also, it needs some drat guide pins and/or rails for the bottle jack baseplate because that drat thing flops around most concerningly until it's got a lot of pressure on it. I was hoping I could get away without those, but it seems everyone else builds them into shop presses for a reason. Who would have thought? A friend of mine brought over a rear dana 44 and a front dana 30 I'm going to regear for him so I took a break from working on the shop press to break the axles down. Started with the 44 since it was a junkyard find (from one of those awesome "hidden in the woods" junkyards owned by an old dude who hasn't sold a part in 6 months yards - the ones you never tell anyone but your closest friends about*, since they're a goldmine of parts you want) and I wanted to make sure I knew every damaged part it'd need before he left so he could order them ASAP. I was not prepared for what I was about to see. Even being from the northeast, this was some serious rust. We're talking 1/4" thick layers of rust chunks on the diff housing, not your average flakey rust... I feel like a rust Eskimo, I have 30 different terms for rust. The brake drums were so seized I had to beat them into submission with a 4 pound blacksmiths hammer just to free the shoes from the drums. Then beat them even harder with the same hammer to pop the drums off. One backing plate was so badly corroded it nearly collapsed in the process. I've never seen a brake shoe rust before, it really was something.  All the wheel bearing retention plates and their studs/nuts are rusted to oblivion. They're coming off with the die grinder tomorrow, I think. I'll take some pics of the disaster when it gets light out. It's a good thing he had a disc swap in mind for this axle because there isn't much salvageable in the drums. * closest friends who don't own any of the same cars and won't be competing with you for parts, that is. 
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Jul 7, 2013 06:35
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kastein posted:I feel like a rust Eskimo, I have 30 different terms for rust. Such is the rust belt experience.
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Jul 7, 2013 16:34
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What is the reason that you didn't just make the top cross bar like the middle and lower one and instead of doing all that welding? Wouldn't it be stronger than the 2 welds holding the cross bar on the top?
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Jul 7, 2013 20:31
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I actually considered that. I got a decent deal on the metal stock because I raided it all out of the scrap/drops stack at the local shop I usually go to, else I would have. Had to work with the sizes they happened to have sitting there. Cost me $80 for 8 feet of 3" heavy C channel and 4 27" pieces of 6" light C channel. That was actually $15-20 under their list price, and looking online I couldn't get it for less than $160 plus shipping. If they'd had a 12 footer of the 3" C channel on hand I probably would have done exactly what you said, but I'd have to pay their list price plus cut fees if I wanted them to cut 12 feet out of a 40 footer for me. And that would have meant another 4 feet of 3" channel and another pair of 6" channel pieces, so it would have cost $120 anyways even with my cool-customer discount. The two welds holding the crossbar on at the top... well, I think they'll hold. I put a ton of heat into them, they're around 1/8" thick, possibly more, and there's around 24" of weld holding it down. Assuming ultra lovely welds (and I don't think mine are that bad, especially those ones) at like 20k psi, they shouldn't even come close to breaking until around 30 tons of pressure is on them, since fluxcore wire is rated at like 60k psi for the welds I'd guess more like 75 to 90 tons force minimum before I have to start worrying. If I upgrade the bottle jack I use I'll likely haul out the 230 amp MIG box and put another really heavy pass over every single inch of those welds, then add a 1/2" stiffening plate across the bottom of the top crossbar where the bottle jack presses upward on it. And maybe four fish plates from the vertical risers to the sides of the top crossbar made from .250 plate with a perimeter weld and some rosettes just for good measure.
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Jul 8, 2013 03:50
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A couple nights ago I took delivery of a dana 44 rear and a dana 30 front I'll be regearing for a friend. Here's what I found taking the drum brakes off the dana 44. This one required 5 minutes of vigorous pounding with a 4 pound chisel point blacksmiths hammer to free it. By vigorous I mean people were ducking flying fragments of cast iron drum... 10 feet away.  This one required 10 minutes. I had to hit the outer round surface of the drum (not the wheel mounting surface, not the back edges) so hard with the chisel end of the hammer that I punched a couple holes right through it, because the shoes were completely rusted to the inside.  The shoe backing plates are so badly rusted they are gone in some places and paper thin everywhere else. The brake backing plates are so badly rusted that there are holes through them in a few spots, one was paper thin and folded when I tried to pound the drum off, and the nuts that hold them on are completely unrecognizable. It's a good thing he had a disc brake swap in mind anyways, looks like I'm going to research that and give him a parts list to order. Then I got tired of looking at the Bagster full of house demolition debris that I tried to have Bagster pick up 3 times last year (they never picked it up each time for a variety of lame excuses) and since I'm probably starting a new job in the next few weeks, I might be able to afford disposing of this via a dumpster, so I decided to lift it and move it elsewhere so at least it's easier to get at. I'm pretty sure it weighs around a ton... compared to lifting a pair of 1-ton truck axles (~1200-1400lbs total) it seems to be quite a bit heavier.  The back end of the truck got so light I could spin the rear tires by hand and get them off the ground by lifting up on the rear bumper. Glad I had it in 4-lo, though it did make turning corners very difficult, as the truck would just pivot around the front axle and then still drive in the same direction as it did before.  People keep telling me to scrap or sell this truck but it's probably the most useful vehicle I own. It does anything/everything I need it to mostly without complaint. As usual, click for larger pictures of rust/ugly trucks.
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Jul 9, 2013 01:28
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kastein posted:
You wouldn't get anywhere near enough to justify selling it even just making it your yard truck.
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Jul 9, 2013 01:55
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Not only is owning your own crane incredibly useful, but this one can have parts stolen off it if required.
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Jul 9, 2013 05:59
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Look at that camber yo.
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Jul 9, 2013 06:13
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I gotta justify my Stanceworks sticker somehow Due to some pipe dreaming on IRC it looks like we may be junkyard hillbillying up a custom axle in the near future. XJ dana 30 housing YJ 4cyl/5speed dana 30 gears XJ/TJ/ZJ/MJ dana 30 inner shafts (large ujoint) Dodge 1500 knuckles? Dodge 1500 outer stub shafts Chevy 1500 rotors, calipers, unit bearings Plus going to have to cut the d30 housing off and swap the axle tubes then press+weld it back together. End result: hopefully a 4.10 geared, all stock/junkyard wear parts, passenger drop high pinion dana 30 axle with 6x5.5 bolt pattern for a Toyota.  ... and getting almost all the parts for the base $100-130 "vanilla straight axle" price by assembling it in the yard, as per my usual trick. And if that doesn't work due to axle tube pressing/welding concerns we can combine parts from the stock R151F Toyota transmission, a Jeep/Dodge AX15 transmission, and a Jeep/Dodge NP231 transfer case and just put a driver drop setup with the same goofy knuckle/brake/bearing swap done on it in. I have a junkyard run to make tomorrow to hunt for a 4.8/6.0 Chevy wiring harness for a friend and try to find a vacuum solenoid for Seat Safety Switch so if I get bored I may try and scrounge all these parts and see if they bolt together as I think they will. kastein fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Jul 9, 2013 |
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Jul 9, 2013 06:25
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| # ? May 23, 2024 17:47 |
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This shits just like Lego to you isn't it?
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Jul 9, 2013 18:44
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