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Used the Niva and the VW to shunt the caravan around the yard. Broke the inner drivers door handle with my knee on the Niva  and just barely started work on adding the rest of the wiring for the driving lights and the thermo fans on the Niva. The battery on the cordless drill was flat so I only got one hole drilled for the fusebox I'm putting in the engine bay.I also put one of the MB Vito wheels I had lying around into the engine bay to see how the spares fit. It gave me a good idea of where I could put the fusebox and relays to avoid interference with the tyre if I get a spare and put it in there. Personally I'm hoping to get a swinging rear bumper mount anyway. e: Installed the relay plugs and the fuse box. No wiring or anything, but it's a step. Haven't been game to open the glovebox to see if I drilled through the backing / contents. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Jul 3, 2013 |
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Jul 3, 2013 04:28
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| # ? May 13, 2024 09:48 |
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Took a really stupid risk to capture a minor milestone. The road was pretty much empty and I kept my eyes on the road, so please don't hate me too much.
solarNativity fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Jul 4, 2013 |
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Jul 4, 2013 00:01
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Thats a pretty clean cluster. I like.
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Jul 4, 2013 04:50
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That's a pickup or something right?
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Jul 4, 2013 04:54
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Chinatown posted:Thats a pretty clean cluster. I like. Capslock Holmes posted:That's a pickup or something right?
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Jul 4, 2013 05:23
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N is for Nipples posted:Took a really stupid risk to capture a minor milestone. The road was pretty much empty and I kept my eyes on the road, so please don't hate me too much. When I was a lot younger and far, far dumber, I managed to snag a photo of one of my old cars breaking 200k. With the speedo pretty close to buried (95 Civic EX 5 speed, salvage title, paid $200 for it with 198k and a bad clutch + battery - friend helped me through babby's first clutch job). Wish I still had pictures of that drat thing, it was a nice car for what I paid for it. Totaled it with 206k 
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Jul 4, 2013 09:08
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some texas redneck posted:When I was a lot younger and far, far dumber, I managed to snag a photo of one of my old cars breaking 200k. With the speedo pretty close to buried (95 Civic EX 5 speed, salvage title, paid $200 for it with 198k and a bad clutch + battery - friend helped me through babby's first clutch job). What do you drive now, if I may ask? I'm sure you're aware there's a very strong possibility we've seen each other on the road or better already.
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Jul 4, 2013 11:31
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Tore apart my drat window switch box because it started flaking out. Disgustingly dirty, inside it looks like one of the contacts shorted and melted the pins which push the contacts together.  I swapped it out with one out of the rear switch, so i can't roll down a rear window from the drivers seat for now but the drivers window is silky smooth. I'll eventually find a junkyard and fix it properly but for now it works.
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Jul 4, 2013 21:12
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Replaced the fuel tank strainer in the 240d. The strainer screws into the bottom of the fuel tank and the fuel line screws into it. So to change the strainer you must drain the fuel. Now I know my gauge reads pessimistic, but not that pessimistic. I drove around for two days, about seventy miles with the gauge buried in the "R", which being opposite of the "F" I'm guessing means empty but maybe it means something cooler in German, I don't know. Anyway confident the tank was nearly dry, I drained nearly five gallons from it. After that surprise I replaced the strainer no problem, it wasn't too gooped up, surprisingly. It would be a minimum of 50,000 miles since it was replaced last, and given the state of some of the other more obscure maintenance items and the condition of the rubber fuel line itself, I doubt it was changed recently before that. Now the really interesting part, when everything was put back together, new strainer and fuel line, I poured the nearly five gallons back in the tank, went to Walmart to pick up some oil, and the station to get some fuel. I then proceeded to pump 14.3 gallons in on top of what I know was there. So that means the tank really holds at least 18 gallons. Normally I'm filling up on the "R" mark after 330 miles and taking 12 gallons. There should be enough fuel still in the tank to run at least another 150 miles. Guess I'm going to go after the fuel sender soon.
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Jul 5, 2013 02:31
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Pretty sure it means something a bit simpler. Reserve. 
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Jul 5, 2013 08:22
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Replaced the shift knob. My car came with an ergonomic leather one and I didnt really care for it much. This one makes shifting feel so much nicer. Sells for $60 and I got it for $20 since the guys car was totaled and he was selling what he could.
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Jul 5, 2013 15:41
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Fan and clutch I ordered for my jeep just got delivered. When I get home I'll slap them on and pray I no longer overheat.
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Jul 5, 2013 19:16
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Replaced the Coil on Plug connectors on my 1MZ-FE V6 Camry using this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-co...165d0d5&vxp=mtr The factory connectors were rotted to hell and not holding the wiring harness pins tightly to the coil pins at all. No more terrible idle. Wanted to cough and bitch and stumble and carry on. 90980-11246 is the part number for a lot of Coil-on-plug Toyotas. It amuses me much that the same part for a badass firebreathing Supra fits my Camry beigemobile. Here's a guy with a GS300 that uses the same terrible, rot prone coil connectors who is replacing them. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-second-generation/564176-diy-gs300-coil-pack-connectors.html I used the "walnut method" same as that guy, just bust off the old rotten connector housings.
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Jul 6, 2013 03:33
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Lowered it   
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Jul 6, 2013 04:24
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I relocated the speedometer cable on the Niva. Most of the work I've done on this thing to date is fix what some chromosomally over-endowed mechanic has done to it. The cable was kind of sandwiched between the exhaust manifold and the transmission sump, where it ran directly under the transmission drain plug. It was meant to go over the transmission and down the other side. That was an inflamed hemorrhoid of a job. Filthy as hell, no space to work in and a cable that didn't want to comply. Took me a while to figure out that the cable enters the cabin through a hole above and offset of the bellhousing. It's there now, so that's another job off my list.
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Jul 6, 2013 04:34
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Fart Pipe posted:Lowered it Oh, so you're Fart Pipe. Should have figured, you've changed your name a few times in the last couple years.
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Jul 6, 2013 04:53
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Raluek posted:Oh, so you're Fart Pipe. Should have figured, you've changed your name a few times in the last couple years. I've been scratching my head trying to figure out who he/she was too. Hell, the only reason I put 2+2 together is he also posted some stuff about the truck on bookface.
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Jul 6, 2013 10:13
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Busted old poo poo   New hotness 
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Jul 6, 2013 17:52
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Raluek posted:Oh, so you're Fart Pipe. Should have figured, you've changed your name a few times in the last couple years. Yea I change it when I get bored but this one has fart in it so I might stick with it for a while.
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Jul 6, 2013 18:11
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Ignoarints posted:Busted old poo poo Is that an OEM replacement or something from ZZP? I want to get a ZZP heat exchanger for my SS/SC at some point.
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Jul 6, 2013 18:22
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Plasti-Dip'd the various chrome touches around the bottom of the bumper, installed some smoked side reflectors and an ebay lip.  I'm going to give it time to see what I do with the rest of the chrome.
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Jul 6, 2013 18:30
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Is that an OEM replacement or something from ZZP? I want to get a ZZP heat exchanger for my SS/SC at some point. It's from modern performance. I'm pretty sure the OEM one is way overpriced but I didn't want one for any price because of the plastic end tanks. The price was right on the new one and MPX is only 300 miles away and this was somewhat of an emergency, only took one day to get here. I've had good luck with their exhaust so I gave this a try and I am pleased so far. Direct fit intercooler, no issues, looks like a quality piece for the money. I'm crawling through the front end reinstall right now and hating every second of it. The fender liners and bumper bent out of shape just enough to make the 900 push pins and screws fight every inch of the way. Edit: Now that I'm done there was a minor fitment issue with four screws along the bottom of the bumper. The intercooler was pressing on the plastic undertray a bit that prevented some screws to line up by maybe half an inch. It would be easily trimmable but it isnt causing any issues at all. Just full disclosure Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jul 6, 2013 |
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Jul 6, 2013 19:37
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Did some buffing today. My friend works at a body shop, and he brought his big buffer and we went to work polishing my car. We used this:  and hit it like this:  It's so smooth. Way easier than the clay bar method.
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Jul 6, 2013 22:10
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I thought the point of the clay bar was to pull the imperfections off the car into the clay, whereas with the buffing it isn't going to do that?
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Jul 6, 2013 22:52
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Gonna be giving the Mini a lot of love over the next week. So far I have plastidipped the grill, replaced the A/C clutch, fixed the AUX input, and given it a bath. Next weekend the fun stuff happens with coil, plugs, wires, belts, bypass valve and a new supercharger pulley and oil to up the boost. And maybe having the windows tinted.
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Jul 7, 2013 00:07
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Bovril Delight posted:I thought the point of the clay bar was to pull the imperfections off the car into the clay, whereas with the buffing it isn't going to do that? Yeah, claying is an entirely different operation for an entirely different purpose. If it needed clayed and got buffed instead, the base issue remains largely uncorrected.
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Jul 7, 2013 00:25
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EVERYWHERE 
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Bovril Delight posted:I thought the point of the clay bar was to pull the imperfections off the car into the clay, whereas with the buffing it isn't going to do that? I used the clay bar not too long ago on it, so it really didn't need it again. Buffing it got rid of some of the small scratches I had and gave it that smooth feel like it did after you use a clay bar on it. I was just trying to compare the amount of work involved. We buffed the entire car, and I detailed the interior in about an hour, compared to the 3 or 4 hours it took me to clay the entire car.
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Jul 7, 2013 00:41
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It takes you 3 hours to clay your car? I can get my father-in-laws Durango done in 45 minutes, under 30 if I have someone helping with the towels.
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Jul 7, 2013 02:09
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I tried to clay my truck a while back, it kept leaving little smudges on the (fully oxidized) paint, which would multiply when I tried to go back and pick them up with the bar. Am I doing it wrong, or is Florida summer just too hot to do it properly?
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Jul 7, 2013 02:11
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The heat is hell on that because it needs to stay lubricated with whatever you're spraying on. Florida should be moist enough that the shade in the morning would be fine though.
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Jul 7, 2013 02:37
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TrinityOfDeath posted:It takes you 3 hours to clay your car? I can get my father-in-laws Durango done in 45 minutes, under 30 if I have someone helping with the towels. If I go full out and do all the paint you can see, yeah. Doing the big areas isn't a big deal, but getting in all the areas under the door handles and stuff takes a little time. Getting a creeper out and doing the panels under the door and whatnot is probably 30 minutes alone. By the time I wash, clay, and then detail spray it, it probably takes close to 3 hours. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Jul 7, 2013 |
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Jul 7, 2013 03:06
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Well, new fan leaves a nice coolant dispersion pattern under the hood.
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Jul 7, 2013 14:36
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I think I wore out my welcome on having my wife bleed the brakes, and I didn't even get the job done. The bleeders on the front are not only inset, but they're a lovely bleeder with a loose fit (air leaks past the threads when I tried to vacuum bleed them) that I've nearly rounded off. They're only 1/4", the box wrench I have has to be used at an angle and I can't find an offset wrench of that size to buy at any of the major stores. The drat wrench fits on a tiny contact patch, at an angle, and there's clear tubing in the way to boot. It was so sloppy under there I just called it, as I wasn't making any good progress. I'm going to order a proper offset wrench on Amazon and call a friend next time. I end this with a few questions. I replaced the master cylinder and have bled out the back - I feel like there should be some bubbles coming through since I did take the line off and re-install, but I only got a few little ones. Am I giving up too soon? Is there something I can add to color the fluid so I know it's flushed through? Every time I touch the fluid I think "it's time to give up and take it to a shop" but then like a few hours later I think "nah I got this". This is a vicious loop I'm stuck in.
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Jul 7, 2013 23:07
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StormDrain posted:they're a lovely bleeder with a loose fit (air leaks past the threads when I tried to vacuum bleed them) Take them out, apply a small but covering amount of never seize. This takes care of two problem at once.
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Jul 7, 2013 23:21
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StormDrain posted:I think I wore out my welcome on having my wife bleed the brakes, and I didn't even get the job done. The bleeders on the front are not only inset, but they're a lovely bleeder with a loose fit (air leaks past the threads when I tried to vacuum bleed them) that I've nearly rounded off. They're only 1/4", the box wrench I have has to be used at an angle and I can't find an offset wrench of that size to buy at any of the major stores. The drat wrench fits on a tiny contact patch, at an angle, and there's clear tubing in the way to boot. Speed bleeders. I've installed three sets now, worth their weight in gold. I still do it with two people because I like to watch the progress and keep and eye on them, but its a billion times faster than the normal way and well worth the investment. Nice firm pedal every time with minimal hassle.
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Jul 7, 2013 23:46
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I got speed bleeders when I flushed my truck's fluid out earlier this year. Absolutely sold, I'll be using them on every car I own from now on. For me it was really easy to tell when they'd been fully flushed because there was a sharp line between black muck and clear new fluid. The stuff in the reservoir (which I completely wiped clean on the inside) is starting to look pretty nasty again, so I might actually do it again here
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Jul 7, 2013 23:50
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Thanks guys, it'll be a few weeks until I can try again, but the never seize will definitely go in. I have no idea what size of a speed bleeder to buy, since they're a rare brake configuration. International pickups aren't listed and I wouldn't trust it if it was. I've flushed it through, so it's actually pretty clean coming through. I'll just settle in for the long haul next time and run a whole bottle through for fun. Edit: just remembered that I have a spare bleeder from the old wheel cylinder to measure, and a new one for the back to measure. I may upgrade after all. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Jul 8, 2013 |
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Jul 7, 2013 23:59
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Took care of some much needed preventative maintenance today. I also finally get to play with my belated birthday present   Before:  After:  I do notice it idles a bit smoother and acceleration feels crisper and a bit more responsive than before. The sound it makes at WOT is incredible 
Root Bear fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Jul 8, 2013 |
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Jul 8, 2013 05:23
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Adjusted popup headlight covers so they are flush with the body, tightened up the seat bolts, topped up the radiator reservoir, polished the exhaust tips and tried to fix a failing passenger door cabin light/open door switch. Silicone lubricated all hinges, locks, latches, arms and actuators too. I hate noise. Still need to fix up sagging doors and replace some missing bonnet rubber-stoppers.
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Jul 8, 2013 05:48
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| # ? May 13, 2024 09:48 |
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Washed it, and immediately this happened: MASSIVE thunderstorm with green skies and everything. I took the picture once I wasn't worried about being blown over by the wind. At least there isn't bird poo poo and bugs all over the car anymore.
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Jul 8, 2013 14:28
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