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Screw it, I think I want something substantial, solid, and quality for what is one of the key tools in the shop. So how about this instead -- the Jet 10" ProShop table saw?
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Jul 8, 2013 01:09
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Effingham posted:Screw it, I think I want something substantial, solid, and quality for what is one of the key tools in the shop. If you order from Grizzy you will have to pay for lift gate delivery unless you have means to unload a conventional semi truck.
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Jul 8, 2013 01:30
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Sweet looking machine, but I'm currently (heh) limited to 110-volt. 
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Jul 8, 2013 02:05
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Check the manual, they can usually be re-wired, although you might need more amperage than you have access to.
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Jul 8, 2013 03:05
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Effingham posted:Screw it, I think I want something substantial, solid, and quality for what is one of the key tools in the shop. I've always read good reviews on it but some people seem to hate Jet tools for some reason, don't know if it's a brand loyalty thing or a valid reason. I will say I don't trust many woodworker's opinions outside of SA because most of them have more opinion than knowledge or experience.
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Jul 8, 2013 05:09
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Jet stuff seems overpriced to me for what you get. We bought a Jet drill press a my last job and I was not impressed after spending more for the Jet brand. My buddy has a small horizontal band saw that looks nice, but it isn't particularly heavy duty. It's hard to beat Grizzly for value. Their G0715p seems to be about in the same class as that Jet but has a bigger motor and all cast top. You might see if you can find some reviews, I've never seen one in person.
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Jul 8, 2013 12:38
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The only real concern I have for cabinet saws is their weight, and thus their immobility. I have a small shop (the equivalent of a one-bay garage), and something like that in the middle of the floor would make things difficult. Sigh. Why couldn't I have been into pottery?
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Jul 8, 2013 16:10
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Effingham posted:The only real concern I have for cabinet saws is their weight, and thus their immobility. I have a small shop (the equivalent of a one-bay garage), and something like that in the middle of the floor would make things difficult. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Heavy-Duty-Mobile-Base/D2057A Or any mobile base, really. I have one under my bandsaw, I have one under my tablesaw, and I'll likely put another under my router table. They are absolutely invaluable in a small shop. When I was in a one-car garage (or, in my opinion, a 3/4-car garage) I had my router table, tablesaw, jointer, planer, workbench, and a massive pile of poo poo, and I was still able to use it all thanks to those mobile bases.
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Jul 8, 2013 16:58
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Bad Munki posted:http://www.grizzly.com/products/Heavy-Duty-Mobile-Base/D2057A Agreed, so worth the money for a small shop. I'd go crazy without them, and probably throw out my back on a regular basis.
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Jul 8, 2013 17:20
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I love them even now that my shop roughly tripled in size. Means I can leave my tablesaw out of the way in a spot where I get enough clearance for 80% of the work I do, but if I need a little more, I just roll it out from the wall a bit and there we go.
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Jul 8, 2013 17:28
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Brilliant. Those could be my salvation. If you'll forgive one more question, then... Do these things come unassembled and you have to put them together? In that case, getting them on the trolley base should be relatively easy. If they are assembled, I think I'll need a half dozen random bulky friends to help me hump it onto the stand. I really apologize for what may seem like stupid questions, but this is moving into a territory I've not yet been. Purchasing large stationary (-ish) power tools is new to me.
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Jul 8, 2013 21:24
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They come unassembled, and you put them together using the rails to make whatever size base you need. Assembling with the tool in place, though, is probably nigh impossible, since you have to run bolts through the rails (at least on the ones I have) and you generally want the base to fit as tightly as possible around the tool. I managed to get my bandsaw on its base with just my wife helping, though, it's not so bad. What I did was work it up onto a stack of 2x4s by rocking one end up, having her slide a board under, then lifting the other side, sliding a board under, and repeating until it was high enough. Then, I lifted one edge, she slid the base over the one stack of boards and under the tool. I set the tool back down, but of course it's not actually on the base, just on the boards. Then, lifted the other side, slid the base over the other stack, so that the base is now fully under the tool, but the tool is still on the boards. Reverse the stacking process one board at a time to work it down onto the base and voila. The last board on each side was the hardest because the saw had to go high enough for the board to clear the mobile base, but it worked like a charm. Of course just lifting the tool straight onto the base is an option, if you have enough hands or a crane (my bandsaw actually came with a bolt on top which was all balanced and everything so you could lift it straight up with a hoist, but of course I don't have one) but there are always other ways.
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Jul 8, 2013 21:28
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Bad Munki posted:They come unassembled, and you put them together using the rails to make whatever size base you need. Assembling with the tool in place, though, is probably nigh impossible, since you have to run bolts through the rails (at least on the ones I have) and you generally want the base to fit as tightly as possible around the tool. Oh, sorry, no, I meant things like cabinet saws and band saws.... 
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Jul 8, 2013 21:32
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Oh, hahaha, sorry. Depends on the tool, but there's almost certainly some assembly. With the table saw, it generally comes in three main pieces: the cabinet, the table, and the fence. Makes it much more manageable. It'll show up on a palette (probably a mini) but the lift gate service guys are generally nice enough to drop the palette where you want it, even though the contract very clearly states curbside only. You might want to ask them beforehand when you schedule the drop off if they'll at least drag it into your shop, and if they're gonna be hardasses about it, get yourself a palette jack for the afternoon. Once you get it unbolted from the palette, though, it shouldn't take more than you and a friend or two at most to get things where they need to be. Between my 70 year old father and I, we unloaded a grizzly tablesaw with a minimum of fuss, and like I said, my wife and I wrangled a bandsaw around fairly readily, even though it weighs about 400 pounds and is awkward as hell. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Jul 8, 2013 |
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Jul 8, 2013 21:36
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Cool, thanks for that. I really appreciate the hive mind of information here. I've asked a few friends who do woodworking, and it invariably seems to break down into "use HAND TOOLS, you dweeb" and "this company and no others makes appropriate machines and you're a horrid person if you buy anything else"... and I need more wide-ranging info. So... if I may impose --- How about the DeWalt 3-blade 12 1/2" planer? I like the bench-top size. I really didn't think I'd need or want a planer and a jointer right off, but several of my want-to-do projects seem to require joinery and so on, so being able to edge-join (thus the jointer) and trim down the thickness (thus the planer) seem to be a good idea; and I'd like to keep those to bench-top tools if viable. I'm also vacillating between bench-top and full-size for a bandsaw and drill press. Since I also make armour, I'd need a bandsaw that can also cut through up to 14 gg steel (c. 2-3mm). Basically, I'm trying to limit my total outlay to about five grand. I'm open to suggestions on what y'all think I'd need.
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Jul 8, 2013 23:15
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I have the larger of the two dewalt planers and I'm happy with it. Not much more to say about it than that. Works good. The reversible knives are a plus.
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Jul 9, 2013 01:21
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Effingham posted:Cool, thanks for that. All handplanes all the time. Go full size for bandsaw and drill press, you won't regret it. quote:Since I also make armour, I'd need a bandsaw that can also cut through up to 14 gg steel (c. 2-3mm). Should be a rule to post pics when you say stuff like that.
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Jul 9, 2013 01:24
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Well, Needed to replace the iron soon anyways, it's had a long life. Not much usable iron left.
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Jul 9, 2013 01:31
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bimmian posted:Should be a rule to post pics when you say stuff like that. Once I've gotten the shop fixed up and running, I will. 
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Jul 9, 2013 03:08
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Regarding large heavy power tools: I bought a full size Grizzly table saw, and picked it up since I live next to one of their warehouses. I got the help of a friend and my father in law, but to be honest, 2 of us could have handled it. Regarding planer/jointer: Get hand planes and learn to true a face, and joint the edges, but buy a power planer to make a parallel face. Cmdr. Chompernuts fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Jul 9, 2013 |
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Jul 9, 2013 13:46
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Taking advice to heart... just ordered a Grizzly G0555 bandsaw. More tools will be coming!
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Jul 9, 2013 21:18
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Baby steps. I just finished my first project that included lovely joinery, and not just screwing blocks of wood together. Its a simple kitchen hutch and im still not happy with how it turned out, but its functional, and I can finish that project and think about it for a bit and then come back to it after practising everything a lot more. And sharpening my saw. And labelling my coffee jars so I dont mistake the varnish for the stain. And remember to label stuff better, or take pictures or something so I remember what way everything fits back together after I take it apart to varnish it. Next I get to make a door for an aviary.
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Jul 10, 2013 01:33
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Effingham posted:Taking advice to heart... just ordered a Grizzly G0555 bandsaw. You're gonna love it! I had to cut some 6" thick purpleheart and the stock blade wasn't feeling it, so I got a set of blades from http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/ and they are the everloving poo poo. Makes all the difference.
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Jul 10, 2013 05:59
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iwannabebobdylan posted:You're gonna love it! I had to cut some 6" thick purpleheart and the stock blade wasn't feeling it, so I got a set of blades from http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/ and they are the everloving poo poo. Makes all the difference. If you're resawing, I'd actually recommend the WoodSlicer blade over these or the expensive Lennox carbide ones. But that's ONLY for resaw, the WoodSlicer isn't great at anything else.
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Jul 10, 2013 06:50
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Anyone here building bows? What do you take for sealing the wood? I know tru-oil is good, but it's hard to come by here in central europe.
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Jul 10, 2013 18:49
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Thanks for the blade sources. That's one thing I'm gathering from reviews and so on -- the various machines may be great, but the blades that come with them are usually (or so it seems) crap.
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Jul 10, 2013 20:30
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Oh dear, what in God's name happened to you? You poor thing, you were clearly abused back in the 70-80s and have been forgotten ever since. Don't you worry honey, I still see how beautiful you can be.   I'll just strip that nasty gunk off you. A few more sessions, some light sanding, a new natural finish and you'll look like a princess.  Few thoughts since I just started this project today: 1) Anyone have better suggestions on strategies to chemically striping the horrible paint off? Right now I'm applying, letting it sit for about 10 minutes then wiping it off. It's working fairly well but I'm pretty concerned about the delicate areas since I don't want to take any sand paper to them. It's a bit dangerous but would it be ok to hit those areas with an air compressor after the paint has bubbled up? It's obvious that it's going to take 3 or so sessions before all of it comes up. The top and sides will eventually get hit with the ROS but like I said, it's not really an option in my mind for the detail work. 2) Anyone have thoughts about a finish? I don't do a lot of this type of refinish stuff so I'm kind of looking for ideas, the grain is crazy beautiful but there is of course some wear in a couple places. I'm thinking mostly of some natural finishes. 3) Who the gently caress does this to a beautiful piece of furniture. I mean seriously, I know everyone was on coke in the 70s and 80s but that's really no excuse. I can't get a good picture of it yet but the grain on the drawers is absolutely amazing. Some nice dovetailing work in there too. Not sure about the wheels on it, those might need to be replaced if I can't get them looking a little better. Anubis fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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Jul 11, 2013 05:10
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InspectorBloor posted:Anyone here building bows? What do you take for sealing the wood? I know tru-oil is good, but it's hard to come by here in central europe. there's a bow thread in TFR: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3197043 it's mostly about archery but there's some good construction tips buried in there too
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Jul 11, 2013 05:21
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Thanks, but I know that thread. There isn't much beyond basic stuff that I already know.
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Jul 11, 2013 12:34
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InspectorBloor posted:Anyone here building bows? What do you take for sealing the wood? I know tru-oil is good, but it's hard to come by here in central europe. My gut instinct would be an oil/varnish mix; which I believe Tru-oil is an oil/varnish mix. Scott Phillips has a pretty good episode on bow building. http://wbgu.org/americanwoodshop/episodes.html Season 17, not sure if you can see the episode in Europe. Also; MarshallX has posted a few. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2819334&userid=52855&perpage=40&pagenumber=5
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Jul 11, 2013 20:47
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wormil posted:Scott Phillips has a pretty good episode on bow building. Its on youtube aswell http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhy2UbFOwHk
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Jul 11, 2013 21:16
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Thanks, but season 17 isn't accesible for us here. I have already built a few bows of different kind of woods, but mostly got sidetracked by the next project. So I have a bunch of bows sitting here that are done and just need some kind of seal. I have linseed oil and also some standard seal used for parquet, but that stuff left me somewhat discontent. Spar varnish might be my next attempt if you don't have any special tips. Natural varnishes like dammar, sandarac or urushi aren't something that I'd cook up for a selfbow.
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Jul 11, 2013 21:22
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InspectorBloor posted:Anyone here building bows? What do you take for sealing the wood? I know tru-oil is good, but it's hard to come by here in central europe. Tru-Oil is just a mix of Tung, BLO and some manner of clear shellac. just give it as much of either tung oil or BLO as it can take, then hit it with some polyurethane. The primary purpose of the oil is to displace water and keep the wood from drying out and cracking. Just give it a good rub (several times) with BLO or Tung oil and forget about the shellac part, as it will flake off and hinder adding more oil.
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Jul 12, 2013 03:03
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Making a pencil holder for work with dovetailed sides. Decorative dovetails, the grain is running the wrong way, I've already broke a bunch, no strength. I was just grabbing pieces and dovetailing them, not really paying attention and I made a set going the wrong direction...had a pretty good laugh, I guess I'll move it to the other side and do a reverse dovetail on that side haha 
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Jul 12, 2013 03:21
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Cutting board I just finished up for a wedding present, didn't turn out too bad for my second one. Had a little mistake on the first glue-up which made it impossible to get everything perfectly lined up, but it is only really evident on the tan, standalone stripe (which happens to be the most obvious as well). Still a pain in the rear end without a joiner or planer, but at least I'm getting better at sharpening and tuning up my hand planes. I really want to pick up a low-angle jack plane before I start the next one, and a #4 smoothing... come'on ebay.
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Jul 12, 2013 17:39
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Wormil, have you used that plane I sent you at all? I'm wondering what you think.
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Jul 12, 2013 17:54
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Cobalt60 posted:If you're resawing, I'd actually recommend the WoodSlicer blade over these or the expensive Lennox carbide ones. But that's ONLY for resaw, the WoodSlicer isn't great at anything else. I bought a Lennox KERFmaster for my G0513X2 (someone recommended it as a cheaper alternative to the WoodSlicer) and it's been great for the little bit of resawing I do. Actually most of the time I'm too lazy to even switch it and just use the Diemaster I keep in the saw all the time. I did change out all the cap screws on my guides to knobs to make blade changes faster, so I'll have more incentive to use the KERFmaster in the future. I buy all of my bandsaw blades from Spectrum Supply. There were a bunch of guys having trouble with bad welds on Timberwolf blades around the time I bought my bandsaw so I went with Lennox and have been quite happy.
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Jul 12, 2013 18:04
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amy recommendations for a hand-held router? Preferably able to take a 2" board and make a 1" joint.
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Jul 13, 2013 03:30
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mds2 posted:Wormil, have you used that plane I sent you at all? I'm wondering what you think. I have. The humidity in my area caused a few issues, mostly the mouth closed up so tight that it will not allow shavings through but before that it was working nicely, producing very thin shavings. I just need to file a bit and it will be back working. Just the price you pay with wood planes. Was also curious about that router plane. In retrospect I think the iron was way too narrow. I assume you are doing the plane swap on LJ?
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Jul 13, 2013 05:05
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Since we're asking... I'm on the fence on the table saw. I'm debating between this Jet and this Grizzly. I can't go higher on Grizzes, as I've got a 110-volt thing going on with the shop, and rewiring is not something I'm interested in doing. These two seem fairly on-par. Any experience with them, or ideas? I'm also planning on getting a few Freud saw blades for whichever one I get. I hear that they're primo, but again, I'm new at this and open to advice and suggestions. Effingham fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Jul 13, 2013 |
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Jul 13, 2013 05:17
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