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Effingham posted:Since we're asking... No experience with either but the Jet has always gotten better reviews but users seem to prefer the Grizzly. The Jet has a 5 year warranty, the Grizz has 1 year. Have you considered the hybrid? http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P
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Jul 13, 2013 05:38
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wormil posted:No experience with either but the Jet has always gotten better reviews but users seem to prefer the Grizzly. The Jet has a 5 year warranty, the Grizz has 1 year. Have you considered the hybrid? That would be my suggestion as well. I looked at the manual, it looks like rewiring it for 110v is pretty straightforward. Freud blades are good - it's what I run on my tablesaw. Forrest is pretty much regarded as the best but they're also quite pricy. The quality of my work has never suffered because of my choice in table saw blades (as long as they're sharp)
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Jul 13, 2013 14:24
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How far from your shop is your electrical panel? It cost me $120 to hire an electrician to wire a 220v outlet, but my panel is in my shop.
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Jul 13, 2013 17:24
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When we built the garage, I had the contractors install a sub-panel just for it -- I believe it's a 100-amp box. So which would be easier, rewiring the hybrid to 110, or adding a 220 box? (I love on the video how Kent calls the hybrid "portable." It weighs 404 pounds.) This is the other concern I've always had, and why I'm a bit anxious about the band saw delivery this week. That's only (only? HAH!) 200 pounds and change, but they say "curbside delivery." My garage is 200 feet away. How the hell do they expect people to do this? So that's why I'm really worried about the table saw. The planer arrived and was 80 pounds, and the FedEx guy was nice enough to back the truck up to the garage and help me hump the box in. But a curbside delivery of three large boxes totaling 400 pounds? If I have a nice driver and a small truck, maybe I can slip him a secret 20 for backing the truck up, but barring that... And that video on adjusting the saw blade to true... What the hell? I can make wood things, but I can't and don't do mechanical things for a reason. They sprain my brain. So I'm going to have to assemble this thing, too? poo poo. This is another reason I like smaller benchtop things... they come all done. Still, the hybrid looks good and is cheaper, but then there's Jet's 5-year warranty. And Jet's guys seem to make a big deal about the fence gliding ABOVE the face rather than on it. Dammit, I am soooo confused. Effingham fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Jul 13, 2013 |
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Jul 13, 2013 21:12
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Effingham posted:
Go rent a hand truck for appliances from U-Haul if you cant move it yourself.
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Jul 13, 2013 21:52
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wormil posted:No experience with either but the Jet has always gotten better reviews but users seem to prefer the Grizzly. The Jet has a 5 year warranty, the Grizz has 1 year. Have you considered the hybrid? I own this saw and I wouldn't buy it again. It's underpowered. It gets bogged down on a 1/2" plywood with a brand new Diablo ripping blade. The fence is pretty great, but I don't know. I just don't love it. And you need to have a duct collector better than the Harbor Freight one to keep the pan clean. And the throat plate paint rubs off on EVERY FREAKING BOARD YOU CUT. Also, rewiring isn't bad, but you have to buy a $40 extension cord if you're going to be far from the plug. I can answer any questions you have on it. And I'm taking suggestions on how to make my table saw cut boards like it's supposed to.
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Jul 14, 2013 03:30
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Pufflekins posted:amy recommendations for a hand-held router? Preferably able to take a 2" board and make a 1" joint. You can't go wrong with the Porter Cable 690 series. http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-...orter+cable+690
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Jul 14, 2013 04:34
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Well, given that and the fact that Jet has a five-year warranty, I'm gonna go that route, I think. 
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Jul 14, 2013 05:09
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iwannabebobdylan posted:I own this saw and I wouldn't buy it again. It's underpowered. It gets bogged down on a 1/2" plywood with a brand new Diablo ripping blade. The fence is pretty great, but I don't know. I just don't love it. And you need to have a duct collector better than the Harbor Freight one to keep the pan clean. And the throat plate paint rubs off on EVERY FREAKING BOARD YOU CUT. Well, a rip blade probably isn't the ideal blade for cutting plywood but still it shouldn't have any problem. If your saw is literally bogging down on 1/2" ply then I have to believe there is a motor or electric supply problem. I read a magazine review on the Grizzly 2HP where the author said it ripped 2" thick white oak "without hesitation."
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Jul 14, 2013 08:36
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Paranoia is starting to get to me, and I've begun looking more and more at the SawStop. Thing is, comparably they're more expensive. But my fingers are worth the extra grand or so... Does anyone have any experience with the SawStop, or can anyone think of why I shouldn't get one? I'm thinking of this one, which, I know, is twice what I was originally thinking of spending. But I'm a pussy when it comes to my fingers.
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Jul 14, 2013 14:53
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Effingham posted:Paranoia is starting to get to me, and I've begun looking more and more at the SawStop. Thing is, comparably they're more expensive. But my fingers are worth the extra grand or so... I'm on my phone and the link won't load but if it's the contractor then I would read reviews very carefully. It's a contractor so a little more noise and poor dust collection plus I've read it's really not a great saw for the price. Basically the thousand dollar premium doesn't show when compared to something like a Powermatic (or even the discontinued Delta) contractor. I would go with the SS cabinet or another brand entirely. I understand finger paranoia but it isn't difficult to keep your fingers... just keep them out of the blade. All tablesaw accidents are user error.
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Jul 14, 2013 17:39
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Effingham posted:Paranoia is starting to get to me, and I've begun looking more and more at the SawStop. Thing is, comparably they're more expensive. But my fingers are worth the extra grand or so... I have cash set aside for a SawStop when I get a bigger shop. That saw you linked (the 1.75 HP PCS model) is going to be way ahead in build quality compared to either that Jet or Grizzly. I believe it's the same as their 3HP saw, just with a smaller motor? It's not in the same class as that Jet or Grizzly saw. I have a high deductible health plan - a visit to the ER for me is pretty much a thousand dollars (and that will only go up). Not that I expect to have an accident, but if I ever did the saw would "pay for itself". There's a little extra cost in a dado brake if you're going to use it with a dado blade. I think it's less than $100. Plus they typically hold their value pretty well - if you decide woodworking isn't your thing, you can turn around and resell it.
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Jul 14, 2013 21:16
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wormil posted:Well, a rip blade probably isn't the ideal blade for cutting plywood but still it shouldn't have any problem. If your saw is literally bogging down on 1/2" ply then I have to believe there is a motor or electric supply problem. I read a magazine review on the Grizzly 2HP where the author said it ripped 2" thick white oak "without hesitation." Yeah I checked alignment on the blade and the knife, ran it on it's own 20amp line, and blew all of the dust out of the motor. Still cut hella slow on 3/4" walnut. Maybe it's an electrical situation, who knows. Good to know it's working for somebody, though.
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Jul 14, 2013 22:11
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Could it possibly be a dull or dirty blade?
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Jul 15, 2013 14:53
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Effingham posted:Paranoia is starting to get to me, and I've begun looking more and more at the SawStop. Thing is, comparably they're more expensive. But my fingers are worth the extra grand or so... In retrospect if I had waited another 2-3 months I could have saved up the difference to get this instead of my Grizzly, and I wish I had. I'm not scared of my saw, and I'm always very conscience when I'm operating it, but $1000 is absolutely worth a finger. Also it's a great quality saw, and the initial purchase hurts, but you'll never regret it after that. Also don't let the size intimidate you, I went with Grizzly because I live next to their warehouse, me and 2 other guys got the saw off the back of a pickup and it wasn't that bad. Cmdr. Chompernuts fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 15:00
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ChaoticSeven posted:Could it possibly be a dull or dirty blade? It's brand new! And I know that it isn't a slipping belt, but maybe a loose belt can cause motor bog without slipping. Very strange! Maybe I'll go buy another new blade and see what happens.
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Jul 15, 2013 15:20
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wormil posted:I have. The humidity in my area caused a few issues, mostly the mouth closed up so tight that it will not allow shavings through but before that it was working nicely, producing very thin shavings. I just need to file a bit and it will be back working. Just the price you pay with wood planes. I did make the mouth on that one super tight, but file away to suit your needs. I've been wondering how usable it was. Other than just screwing around I haven't used the router plane much. But I will shortly, I need to make some recesses for knife hinges. The iron could be bigger but it's size isn't the problem. There is a problem with the shape of the end of the iron- its round. Using a sharpened hex key is a really clever idea, but the rounded end does not make it possible to get into corners. If the bottom of the key was flattened to it's widest cross section it would eliminate this problem. Yep, I'm doing the plane swap. Ordered two niceash.com irons the other day. No clue what I'll make, but I have a ton of time to figure it out. Are you doing it?
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Jul 15, 2013 16:05
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Effingham posted:When we built the garage, I had the contractors install a sub-panel just for it -- I believe it's a 100-amp box. Do you live somewhere where you can do your own electrical work and not have to have it inspected afterwards? I put in a 220 breaker and ran a line for 2 outlets for my tablesaw and bandsaw in a couple hours, and I had never done any electrical work before beyond wiring up a ceiling fan. You don't need a whole new box. My basement is unfinished, and my workshop is, so I used regular nm cable on the rafters and then armored cable in the workshop so I didn't even have to go inside the walls.
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Jul 15, 2013 16:37
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mds2 posted:...but the rounded end does not make it possible to get into corners. If the bottom of the key was flattened to it's widest cross section it would eliminate this problem. Yeah that was my other concern. Originally I planned to grind the hex key down to the widest point until I discovered the steel is really hard. I probably spent a couple hours grinding and sharpening as it was because I didn't want to lose temper. If I make another, I'll look into commercial irons again but they were more expensive than buying a vintage router plane; I should probably just make my own and temper it. Yep, doing the plane swap. Probably make another router plane if I can figure out an iron.
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Jul 15, 2013 21:28
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wormil posted:Yeah that was my other concern. Originally I planned to grind the hex key down to the widest point until I discovered the steel is really hard. I probably spent a couple hours grinding and sharpening as it was because I didn't want to lose temper. If I make another, I'll look into commercial irons again but they were more expensive than buying a vintage router plane; I should probably just make my own and temper it. Yeah and if you went with a wider hex key you would just compound your grinding time. I really don't know a good source for replacement router plane irons. You did get that thing good and sharp though. I think I am going to make a scrub plane for the swap and a similar shape to the one I sent you. Now I need to find some cool exotic scrap.
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Jul 15, 2013 21:41
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iwannabebobdylan posted:It's brand new! And I know that it isn't a slipping belt, but maybe a loose belt can cause motor bog without slipping. Very strange! Maybe I'll go buy another new blade and see what happens. Is it the blade that came with the saw? My Grizzly bandsaw came with a blade. I had never had a "real" bandsaw before so I left it on to practice setting the saw up. Once dialed in, I grabbed a piece of scrap wood for a test cut. It was probably 4 inches thick, hickory I think. It took quite a bit of force to push it throuh but I really didn't know any better. I put a new blade on and made the same cut with practically no effort. Stock grizzly blades are terrible. Pick up a new blade and let us know how it goes if you're using the Grizzly blade.
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Jul 16, 2013 01:16
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Got these this weekend A 1950's UK made Stanley 71 Router plane, and a Stanley #4 type 13  Got the #4 from Walt at brasscityrecords.com, the sole was flat, and after a quick frog adjustment and sharpening I got some pretty fine shavings. The price was very low, I recommend him highly.  Also made one of those "moxon" vises, because all the cool kids are doing it 
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Jul 16, 2013 13:44
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Just curious, but what experience level is everyone in here? I'm hobbyist with 2 years experience. I'm pretty sure there are a few professionals.
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Jul 16, 2013 16:13
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mds2 posted:Just curious, but what experience level is everyone in here? I'm hobbyist with 2 years experience. I'm pretty sure there are a few professionals. I basically grew up in my dads workshop, so I benefited from the many years of what was essentially an apprenticeship. He wasn't a professional, but an engineering career and woodworking hobby runs in the family. I lost access to my dads workshop when I went off to college, then he moved. Fast forward 8 years or so and I finally have the space and resources to get back into it, so I'm a little rusty.
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Jul 16, 2013 17:05
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Same here: grew up in dad's shop. He was a hobbyist, but we've both always been pretty handy. Took a few years of woodshop in high school, and have continued to grow my shop and skill set ever since, but I'd still classify myself as "intermediate hobbyist."
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Jul 16, 2013 17:11
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mds2 posted:Just curious, but what experience level is everyone in here? I'm hobbyist with 2 years experience. I'm pretty sure there are a few professionals. Several years of woodshop in HS, been a hobbyist since. No other woodworkers in my family except my granddad who made simple clocks and was very secretive about it for some reason then died when I was still young. I was only interested in furniture then began branching out a few years ago.
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Jul 16, 2013 17:56
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I grew up with the bare minimum of woodworking knowledge. My Dad occasionally worked with wood but it was pretty much very simple cutting/screwing/nailing/sanding. Anything beyond making a basic shelf or pinewood derby car or sanding/staining was beyond me. Years later when I'm married and on my own, little projects come up around the house that definitely help me learn more and obviuosly save some serious cash. The only major things I've done have been putting down a subfloor (forgive my awful terminology here) for tile to sit on, built a few frames/stands for things ranging from tv stands to arcade monitor chassis, and bracing up existing wooden things for support. My tools of the trade are about the bare minimum as well. I've got the following: - cordless circular saw still using original blade it came with - cordless drill - metal and wood bits of all kinds, hole saws, spade bit thingamajigs - jigsaw - random hand/bowsaws - 10 year old dremel with random attachments/bits - belt sander and piles of sand paper for doing it the old fashioned way Things I want to learn about and get into one day: - routing routing and more routing - advanced staining beyond what a 4 year old could do - fancy joint work (dovetail I'm looking at you) - wood planes and lathes
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Jul 16, 2013 21:07
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iwannabebobdylan posted:It's brand new! And I know that it isn't a slipping belt, but maybe a loose belt can cause motor bog without slipping. Very strange! Maybe I'll go buy another new blade and see what happens. Check your motor is wired right. A 220v motor will run on 110, just really slow. I had that problem on my grandfathers saw, it wasn't wired for the correct voltage in the motor and had no power. Once the motor was wired correctly, it could power through most things.
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Jul 16, 2013 21:25
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iwannabebobdylan posted:It's brand new! And I know that it isn't a slipping belt, but maybe a loose belt can cause motor bog without slipping. Very strange! Maybe I'll go buy another new blade and see what happens. Did you double check that the blade is on the right direction? I'm not saying it is. I'm just saying I know what it feels like to come to that realization 
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Jul 17, 2013 00:36
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mds2 posted:Just curious, but what experience level is everyone in here? I'm hobbyist with 2 years experience. I'm pretty sure there are a few professionals. I took a class in highschool and I like to play around with my Dad's and Grandpa's tools when I was younger. Old saws, hand drills, chisels and some carving tools. I started to do it a lot this January, I built a bench as my first project and have been continuously doing projects even since. I like to have a big one and a bunch of small ones on the go, so even if i have a little bit of time I can do a thing or two. My coffee table is almost complete, all sanded and ready for a stain. The original stain didn't give me a colour I liked, Minwax Ebony, soaked into the pores nice, but left the other stuff grey. I bought a new can of Sherwin Williams Dark Cherry and it's going on much more even. I'm trying some topcoats on the test piece, then I'll be ready to do the whole table. In the mean time I've been playing around on my lathe a bit more, bought a cheap bench grinder and tried sharpening my chisels. Nice having sharper knives, it took of nice little chips and splintered a lot less. I took some advise from a guy on lumberjocks and improved the bottle opener hardware. Here are the three I made on Sunday, had to have a beer to test each one.  
Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 01:16
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LordOfThePants posted:Is it the blade that came with the saw? Nah, but that was a huge difference when I first got the saw, for sure. I've had it over a year now and am on blade 8 or 9, and I don't remember ever thinking "Man, this saw is really cutting well." It's weird. blindjoe posted:Check your motor is wired right. A 220v motor will run on 110, just really slow. I had that problem on my grandfathers saw, it wasn't wired for the correct voltage in the motor and had no power. Once the motor was wired correctly, it could power through most things. I changed the fuse and moved some stuff around in the box when I bought it to get it down to 110, but that was so long ago that I should probably go back and double check it. It seems to get up to speed, and it whirrs pretty good, but it slows to nothing if you try to push anything through it too quickly. Tonight I STOPPED THE BLADE with 1/4" Maple ply. Granted, I was pushing quick and trying to see if I could, but surely that shouldn't be possible. One Legged Ninja posted:Did you double check that the blade is on the right direction? I'm not saying it is. I'm just saying I know what it feels like to come to that realization Lol, yeah, that part's right. Would be pretty awesome if that was the problem, though. Easy fix! Thanks for the tips, guys! We'll figure this out! mds2 posted:Just curious, but what experience level is everyone in here? I'm hobbyist with 2 years experience. I'm pretty sure there are a few professionals. I started goofing around in college with hand tools 7-8 years ago, got a 10" bandsaw 5 years ago. Started a tiny little company 2 years ago to finance the shop. I spend 20-40 hours a week in the shop, but I don't do anything really fancy. Trying to run a business and invent stuff is where the fun is for me, not in using handplanes and cutting tenons. Massive respect to those who do, though.
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Jul 17, 2013 01:53
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Those look great. And what another great project for the lathe. I've been a long time gone, hope to return soon. I'm moving 3 states over (cal to tex)to a nice big house with plenty of projects ready to be made. One of them involves rewiring my lathe motor and building a table for it to be on. And you can never have too many bottle openers 
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Jul 17, 2013 01:53
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Holy crap, I am all kinds of excited today. Look what just came in the mail!  Some of grandpa's old tools. He was a fairly accomplished woodworker (which is probably where my father learned most of what he knows, after he married my mother, who's side this is from), and while most all of his stuff is still in use by his more immediate descendants, my aunt has been following my woodworking and sent me these from his collection. A few hand drills (largely nostalgic, although I can see them being useful in certain delicate situations) and, of greater significance, a no. 8, 6, 5, and--well, I don't actually know what the number is on the small one. They're all in superb shape so far as I can tell. I have no idea if these are modern or not. Not that it matters for my purposes, there's a huge amount of nostalgia here, but I'd like to date them. Does anyone have that site with all the historical changes for dating stanley planes?
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Jul 17, 2013 14:27
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The #8 and #6 look to be type 19, which means 1950s-1960s The #5 I believe is pre WW2 based on the lever cap not having the Kidney shaped hole, does the blade have Sweetheart logo? I suspect it's type 13-15 The block plane looks like a 65 http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan9.htm I love the knuckle lever cap, and you have the low angle version. See here for more about aging http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/type_study.php#Type 19 Nice get, dude
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Jul 17, 2013 14:40
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Yeah, I ended up finding this site: http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/typing/typing.htm According to that, I'm reasonably sure the no. 5 I have is 1925-1928. The blade doesn't have the SW stamp, but who knows, that could have been replaced at some point in its history. And you're correct, the one is a 65. I was looking closer at it and it's stamped on the side, teeny tiny little marking. e: Pretty sure the #6 is a type 16. It's similar to the type 19, except the top of the cutter is angled on the 16 and rounded on the 19. Having a hard time conclusively dating the #8. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 14:52
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On second thought the #8 may be far more modern, based on the chrome lever cap
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Jul 17, 2013 15:23
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That's certainly possible, the man kept going right up until the end. I suppose for a minimum earliest date, I could reference the patent number on the back of the lever cap: 1918750. But who knows how old that particular patent is. Probably depends on whether that particular patent was one of the earlier model patents or if it's an updated one due to some minor change. e: Yeah, that didn't help much, that particular patent was issued in 1933.
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Jul 17, 2013 15:26
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So now I guess what I need are some recommended guides on care and tuning for these things. For instance, how the hell would you dial in the sole on a plane as large as that #8?
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Jul 17, 2013 15:30
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On the #8 I wouldn't worry as long as the front, back, and both sides of the mouth are in line. IMO the only plane that needs to be truly super flat is a smoother. Mark the spots I mentioned with a sharpie and put some long adhesive sandpaper on your table saw, back and forth until you no longer see the sharpie. If you're going to use the #6 as a fore plane, then don't even bother flattening it, if you want to use it as a small jointer, then repeat the process from the #8
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Jul 17, 2013 15:34
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That's some sweet woodshop bling, my friend. drat.
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Jul 17, 2013 15:34
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