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kastein posted:Breaking tools like a boss! Kas this is an awesome thread. I've read it twice through and will probably read it several more times. I'm learning a ton and I have to say thanks for that. I've got to dig into my Ranger's diff soon, I think the pinion gear has started walking but there isn't any play on the drive shaft. Hopefully it's just a bad gasket causing a slow leak... Do you have a cordless impact? Sears is having a pretty good sale and I think you can get their c3 cordless impact for like $99 with a charger and battery. It's pretty damned powerful and it charges quickly.
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Jul 14, 2013 16:51
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Thanks, I wish there was more posting of results and pictures, mostly I just yap about tech and poo poo so far. I actually love the companion flanges that Ford uses on their diffs, makes it so much nicer. Why? When you're rock crawling and end up slamming a ujoint yoke or driveshaft into a rock and it explodes while you're on the throttle, it's very common to either rip the ubolts or straps and bolts off the yoke while breaking the ujoint or rip the ears/cap retention nibs off the yoke. Then you have to pull the pinion nut off, risk dumping gear oil everywhere, and replace the pinion yoke then put the pinion nut back on and hope you didn't gently caress up your pinion bearing preload. Versus this happening with a flange - you spin that poo poo all day, blow up the companion flange and/or driveshaft, unbolt it, put another one on (they're 25 bucks brand new, or 10 bucks at the yard) with a new $12 ujoint and keep going. In fact I'm going to the yard tomorrow probably, going to try and pull at least 2-3 dana 60 pinion flanges (two for a friend building an MJ, one for my parts collection to build mine, since my other 60 already came with one factory) out of E250s and E350s plus some 1310 ujoint to ford flange adapters out of Rangers with 7.5 rears. Fortunately for me (unfortunately for you) it seems like 7.5s are a common failure point, because I see an incredible number of them get pulled at the local yard. What that means to me is that people leave the driveshafts lying around everywhere, so instead of having to pull one to get the ujoint companion flange all I have to do is look on the ground in the Ranger section for a couple minutes before I find one pulled for me. I don't have a cordless impact - I'm not really a believer in them, especially since my air impact (an IR 231C) that I bought on reputation alone turned out to be a total limp dick even overpressured to 150psi. As in, it'll sit there and rattle all loving day and not move a nut in the least, while I can break it loose in one try by putting a pipe wrench on the pinion yoke, a breaker bar on the nut, and jumping on it. Related: Next time I blow up my breaker bar I'm buying a goddamn Harbor Freight one. The Husky ones have gone downhill in a serious way and I was very impressed by a friend's HF one, as in, we tried to get a seized pinion nut loose with it by putting a 4 foot pipe on it, taping it to the pinion nut, and doing clutch drops at 4000rpm with the pipe braced against the ground. All it did was cause a hell of a burnout. I might have to have a friend make me a 1/2 to 3/8 drive adapter out of 4340 chromoly, too, because I'm really tired of breaking those and I'm not really a fan of wasting time on half measures, so straight to 4340 it is. Might consider 4140 since speedymetals has a firesale on 1" round 4140 drops a foot long for like $5, but I'd prefer 4340.
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Jul 14, 2013 17:24
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kastein posted:the way I wheel (like a blind retarded man) I love this.
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Jul 14, 2013 17:41
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kastein posted:
I've got one in my dining room, its a nice grey one. I've not tried to put it back on since i put the 31 spare in though. I found mine at the junkyard too, I didn't know they were all that rare..
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Jul 14, 2013 22:18
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kastein posted:I could, but the way I wheel (like a blind retarded man) usually by the time I need to winch I have the bumper I'd need to drag toward something wedged securely into a ledge, so I'd need to find a way to teleport the winch receiver adapter into the hitch or something. So I'm trying to think of a way to fit the winch mount into the same real estate as the receiver... either that or mounting the winch offset to one side and just requiring the use of a snatch block every time I use it. I guess that wouldn't be the worst problem to have. The obviously solution is to weld 2" receivers all around the perimeter of the vehicle.
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Jul 15, 2013 17:07
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I swear to loving god I will burn every ford explorer to the motherfucking ground   I think that is the maddest I have ever been in the junkyard. I just spent an entire hour in 95 degree heat, full sun, and jungle humidity jacking a loving explorer up only to have the drat jack tip over, time and time again. Never even got the wheels off of the axle I wanted, or the wheels off the loving ground for that matter. I am going to go back tomorrow with a hydraulic floor jack instead of a high lift and I am going to make that explorer pay for what it did to my sanity today. On the plus side, I hit Harbor Freight and bought myself one of their quick release 3/4" drive breaker bars and a set of 3/4 to 1/2 and 3/8 drive adapters. Place your bets on where the weak link is, because I am drat well going to find it. The 3/4 breaker bar is beefy as gently caress and I really doubt I'll be able to break it, its design is very similar to the older style Husky 1/2 breaker bars that I used to swear by. Since I've broken 2 of those and one new style Husky in the last month and a half, I decided I should probably move up to 3/4 drive. (my personal bet is on the 3/4 to 1/2 adapter twisting off right where the 1/2 square meets the rest of the tool)
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Jul 15, 2013 23:05
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Do you think there's any way to straighten out an axle tube? My buddys Dana 30 is off by a zillionth of a millimeter, just enough to gently caress with his locker and make it a little hard to get the shaft in. I figure it's not worth the trouble, and would probably never be strong again if it was bent back, but he's broke as heck.
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Jul 15, 2013 23:25
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kastein posted:(my personal bet is on the 3/4 to 1/2 adapter twisting off right where the 1/2 square meets the rest of the tool) My HF adapters split at the sidewall where the 3/8 drive goes in. One point of the square came out. Didn't rip off the 1/4" drive or the socket. I suspect asstastic metal and loose tolerances in their swage die lets the metal work harden and get brittle at the points, but stay soft in the middle.
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Jul 15, 2013 23:29
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These are their impact adapters, so I dunno, I guess we'll see. I doubt the 3/4-drive socket on the adapters will ever fail, it's just too goddamn huge, but I wouldn't be surprised if the smaller ends of the adapters break.Astonishing Wang posted:Do you think there's any way to straighten out an axle tube? My buddys Dana 30 is off by a zillionth of a millimeter, just enough to gently caress with his locker and make it a little hard to get the shaft in. Are you sure it's the tube? The upper arm of the inner Cs really likes to bend. You can bend it back with a big hammer with the axle out of the jeep, just plan on welding gussets onto them after because it will happen again. What's it in? And what gear ratio?
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Jul 15, 2013 23:35
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kastein posted:These are their impact adapters, so I dunno, I guess we'll see. I doubt the 3/4-drive socket on the adapters will ever fail, it's just too goddamn huge, but I wouldn't be surprised if the smaller ends of the adapters break. When you say inner C - that's what surrounds the ujoint and has the ball joint at top right? This area? It's just ten factory shafts, a lock right, and he's had his gears switched to I think 4.88.
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Jul 15, 2013 23:54
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Ahhh, upgraded gears... yeah that would suck to replace. Low or high pinion? That is exactly the inner C gusset kit I'd recommend if you went with a kit. I'd probably just cut some out of spare flat stock I have on hand. I dunno how I'd go about straightening an axle tube. They're drat hard to bend in the first place - it took me a long, long time and I had help from the previous owner. Stick an angle finder on the tube on each side as far outboard as you can and see if it's actually the tube that's bent or just the knuckle. It could even be a bent or badly worn balljoint. It actually takes a fairly significant bend in either the knuckle or the tube to make the shaft difficult to get in, I had zero problems swapping shafts on my old axle and it was very, very bent. Like 3-4 degrees on each side bent.
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Jul 16, 2013 00:14
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Veeb0rg posted:I've got one in my dining room, its a nice grey one. I've not tried to put it back on since i put the 31 spare in though. I found mine at the junkyard too, I didn't know they were all that rare.. Augh!
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Jul 16, 2013 01:04
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Well I went back to the junkyard this morning to settle a score with a POS Explorer. Nothing like the right tools for the job. Hydro floor jack lifted it easily and it didn't even tip over. So I stuffed rims and boulders under the frame rails and dropped it on them.  10-15 minutes of cutting U-bolts/swaybar links/driveshaft/shackles etc and it was out. Then I had to figure out how to load it into my wheelbarrow and haul it to the register because I didn't feel like waiting for a loader. Step 1, pick axle up and prop it across two junk cars:  Step 2, drag wheelbarrow under it, drop axle down onto wheelbarrow, stagger away with 280lbs of tools and 180lbs of axle on wheelbarrow. They gave it to me cheaper than expected because someone had already pulled the cover. 8.8 covers are tinfoil thin anyways and it's going in a friend's offroad truck so that doesn't bother me at all, he needs an aftermarket armored cover anyways.
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Jul 16, 2013 16:57
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Yeah the first time I went to the yard with ken I was all excited to start helping unbolt poo poo on an axle pull. Then I realized I was of no help unless I had a sawzall or grinder in hand. 10 minutes isnt a joke.
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Jul 16, 2013 17:31
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I generally don't touch the wrenches while pulling an axle unless my cordless tools are all out of battery power. gently caress dealing with rusty rear end U-bolts, that's what 30 seconds with a grinder is for. Pulling front axles sucks because the track bar is generally a massive dick and won't come loose, and it's usually too big to simply cut. The first front 60 I pulled I ended up sawing 3/4 of the way through it (1.25" solid steel rod) with the sawzall before the battery ran down, then just beat it with the 4lb blacksmiths hammer until the rest broke. Pulling rears is easy. This one was mildly annoying because I had to cut the shackles (spring under axle leaves it sitting on the springs and trapped by the brake backing plates even once it's cut free) but fortunately Ford made the explorer shackles easy to cut (or rot, a common issue) in half. It actually took me and Ace less time to pull the rear 60 out of a fullsize ford E350 than it did to pull this 8.8 because E350s are SOA and it still had the tires on. So we just cut everything, then had the forklift driver lift the chassis off the axle and that was that. kastein fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 17:44
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Took the MJ for a hellride around town/various trails before going to sleep and it decided to blow two hoseclamps off the rubber fuel line into the fuel filter at some point. Not sure when, because it ran fine, I only noticed it when it was gushing everywhere as I got out of the truck. So I guess I'm driving the crapcan to work tomorrow. The small red crapcan that is, not the big white crapcan. Guess I'll tear the fuel system apart and fix all the things that are wrong with it while I am in there, because it's been acting up for a while. The fuel sender leaks around the two steel tubes going through the bulkhead plate (broken braze, just need to rebraze it) if I fill it past the 3/4 mark and there's a hole rusted in the fill neck. I'm not sure how I'll fix the rust hole yet.
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Jul 18, 2013 03:14
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Do you ever buy NEW parts?
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Jul 18, 2013 17:36
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Why buy new when you can build it BETTER 
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Jul 18, 2013 17:38
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Please write "Playing Junkyard Legos for Dummies"
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Jul 18, 2013 17:59
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EightBit posted:Please write "Playing Junkyard Legos for Dummies" ^^ I would buy this book.
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Jul 18, 2013 20:21
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It would be nice to build a database of "this fits this" or "If your wanting to achieve this, your going to need these parts off this car" Or just PM Kastein.
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Jul 18, 2013 22:15
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If I've read this thread correctly, everything can be made to fit a jeep, especially if it came off another vehicle.
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Jul 18, 2013 22:21
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Astonishing Wang posted:Do you ever buy NEW parts? I do. Just not right now, or when I can get perfectly serviceable ones at the junkyard. For instance, I bought new hose clamps to fix the fuel system today  See, problem is, on the MJ, the fuel fill neck and the fuel sender unit are both unobtainium. They are MJ specific and haven't been stocked by dealers since approximately a million years ago, no aftermarket company bothers to make them, and the only ones that are available NOS are sold by people who know what they are, and charge accordingly. I'm not loving paying $400 for a set of used tail lights (that's an actual real example BTW) on ebay, nor am I paying their prices for the fuel fill necks or fuel level senders. This is why I strip everything MJ specific off any MJ that ever shows up in the local pull a part, because it might as well be a low class retirement fund. I have like 5 sets of tail lights, almost any other junkyard hound MJ owner probably has at least 2 or 3 sets.
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Jul 19, 2013 01:03
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Cakefool posted:If I've read this thread correctly, everything can be made to fit a jeep, especially if it came off another vehicle. That was pretty much AMC's standard operating procedure.
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Jul 19, 2013 01:59
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Mighty Horse posted:That was pretty much AMC's standard operating procedure. AMC = All Makes Corporation In particular they really really really liked swiping parts off of GM's production lines. Strangely, another failed auto maker (Bricklin) decided to use *their* engines... at least the AMC 360 was pretty respectable.
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Jul 19, 2013 03:15
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The kastein 4x4 offroad parts lookup system. Latency is high and it has the problem of giving too much relevant information and alternatives, but for the most part it can spit out part numbers all day for projects that have no business smashing parts into other parts.
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Jul 19, 2013 05:25
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Speaking of which I now have two driver side calipers on the front of my red toilet jeep. Inboard pad exploded and lost half its friction material on the way to work, due to previous owner fuckups, delayed maintenance, and me not realizing because the drat telltale clip had rusted off the pad, so it didn't warn me that it was that low. By the time I got to work it was grinding and screeching when I stopped, by the time I got home it was grabbing and making the pedal vibrate when I stopped. This left me with zero running driving inspected vehicles 9 hours before I am due for my second day at the new job. Not cool. Parts stores are all closed, time to monkeyfuck something together. Which is why the front of the MJ is currently standing on a jackstand and a farm jack with the wheels and brake hardware torn off. The wonders of spare vehicles that have all the same spare parts  Of course, this is the side I don't have a spare caliper for. So I stuck my spare caliper on it, flipped it upside down, and gravity bled it. Slapped it on, good pedal feel, no fucks given. Sold my last non-project-allocated dana 60 to a friend tonight for $200 just to get the goddamn thing out of here, so I'm ordering two new calipers, rotors, and a set of pads. I also need to replace the driver side steering knuckle because some previous owner cockhead hosed up one of the slide pins, so instead of fixing it he simply ripped the slide pin out of the caliper and overdrilled/tapped the knuckle for a random size SAE bolt that seemed to fit well.  needless to say, the drill didn't go in straight so the caliper sorta seizes and the bolt is bent after 3 stops. Fortunately I have like 4 spare steering knuckles on hand (and don't really remember where they came from or why I have them) so I'll just slap one on while I'm doing the rest of the brakes.Time to pass the gently caress out, waking up and driving to work in 4.25 hours, come hell or high water.
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Jul 19, 2013 06:12
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Slow is Fast posted:The kastein 4x4 offroad parts lookup system. Never ask for interchange data when in a hurry.
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Jul 19, 2013 11:35
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Look what came in the mail today with my new waterpump  
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Jul 19, 2013 22:35
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Alright so I promised some pics of the horribly hosed brakes on the 98 red toiletjeep. Cliffs: shadetree hackjob PO stuck/redneck-modified slides (one was drilled out to a random SAE size, not straight, and the slide tube removed from the caliper so the bolt could mostly fit through the caliper, loosely, it not being straight in resulted in the bolt bending and the caliper sticking a bit) northeast rust = brake wear warning tabs went AWOL years ago I didn't realize the brakes were worn down this badly one of the pads self destructed, I have no idea where half the pad friction material went Thursday the brakes went from working fine to pulsing and grinding on my way to work (pretty sure that's when half the pad friction decided to sod off and take a break on i90), then went from pulsing and grinding to pulsing a lot and grinding a lot and then catching and sticking at low speeds coming to a stop This is what I found. Hmmm, I wonder where that pixie dust inside the rim came from?  More pixie dust...  OH GOD  Rotor looks reusable though!  (it's ground down about 25-50 thou and very, very rough) Caliper piston was seized, too. I ended up replacing the caliper with a spare (and gravity bleeding it upside down because I only had a spare lefthand and needed a righthand) to get myself to work Friday. The second a paycheck comes in, this turd needs new calipers, I picked up new rotors/pads for it already. kastein fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Jul 21, 2013 |
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Jul 21, 2013 19:15
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Or just PM Kastein. This works like a champ. I was talkin to a guy who said "I gotta hit a junkyard for some dana 44 parts, and I'm not sure...." I cut him off and said "I know a guy who knows. Lemmee get a PM open." Ken is awesome, on the spot, and correct, frequently within 10 minutes.
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Jul 21, 2013 22:53
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I doubt that'll remain the same... Having a job is really cutting into my internet forums time I've just determined that the flammability warnings on both non-chlorinated brakleen and lighter fluid are bullshit. Went to start the charcoal grill up and couldn't find my torch. No problem, right? That poo poo warns about sparks, so I can just use an angle grinder and an old brake rotor to spray it with sparks and start the fire. Nope. Did nothing. Hmmm, how about hosing it with some brakleen and then spraying it with sparks? Nope, no fire. Maybe spray it with sparks while someone else sprays it with brakleen? Nope. I'm very disappointed in the exaggerations on the warning labels, that all should have worked t  I had to go find the goddamn torch.  Just kidding, that was last year. Only needed a propane torch really.
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Jul 21, 2013 23:50
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Ack, don't ever use brakleen on fire fuel you're going to cook over; even lighter fluid isn't particularly good for you. Torch method works, or you can get (or knowing you, make) one of those coffee-can starters. Load bricks up top, stick newspaper in the bottom and light it, you get nice hot charcoals without the petroleum distillate flavor.
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Jul 22, 2013 03:30
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The only brakleen I buy is acetone/heptane, no xy-, -benzene, -toluene, or other methyl-ethyl-badshit involved. It burns quite cleanly.
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Jul 22, 2013 03:40
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Slow is Fast posted:Yeah the first time I went to the yard with ken I was all excited to start helping unbolt poo poo on an axle pull. If you want to piss him off have him dig the turbo out of a Volvo
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Jul 22, 2013 05:55
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Nodoze posted:If you want to piss him off have him dig the turbo out of a Volvo Trust me, it would take about 5 minutes. It would be hilarious. You underestimate the powers of ken with a BFH.
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Jul 22, 2013 11:30
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chrisgt posted:Trust me, it would take about 5 minutes. It would be hilarious. You underestimate the powers of ken with a BFH. We did it when we went to the yard in Billerica hunting for turbos to use for fun at NEAI1. After we got it out he was like "gently caress this never again"
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Jul 22, 2013 17:06
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They stuff the god drat thing BEHIND the engine and engines are bigger than my largest hammer. That is a problem. Whatever car has them on the front of the engine (I think it was another volvo, not sure) I can get two of them out in 45 minutes if I have to. Today I drove to work with pads, rotors, and a new knuckle in the passenger seat of the red toilet, then replaced everything in the parking lot before I started work. The upper balljoint almost cockblocked me and the lower clearly needs replacing so it's coming back apart in the near future for a new set of balljoints.
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Jul 23, 2013 00:53
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I don't know if you know this, but most people drive to work with a cup of coffee. Maybe some fast food death breakfast sandwich too.
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Jul 23, 2013 08:19
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