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Painting black any suggestions? In particular painting black robes, I'm starting an ulthwe army and its proving to be a pain to paint
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Jul 14, 2013 21:56
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gilljoy posted:Painting black any suggestions? Don't paint black, paint dark gray. That way you can shade with black and highlight with a lighter shade of gray.
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Jul 14, 2013 22:04
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So I gave the shading a try. Edge lightening works out fairly well, but crevice shadowing just looks sloppy and awful, like somebody smeared some murky water over the area. I'm currently using watered-down mixes of my previous acrylic paints, but I think at least a little of the problem comes from having mixed dark gray and black for my shadow color. I think I also made the mixture too dilute. It's especially problematic and sloppy-looking where the curve of the top of the engines slopes down onto the main flat body, where there isn't really a hard crevice.
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Jul 14, 2013 23:11
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KozmoNaut posted:Don't paint black, paint dark gray. That way you can shade with black and highlight with a lighter shade of gray. Yeah I'm trying to do that but it turns out more grey than black
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Jul 14, 2013 23:39
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gilljoy posted:Yeah I'm trying to do that but it turns out more grey than black Have you added the darker shadowing on top of it yet? It may seem obviously gray at first, but the way color perception works in the eyes, your brain will interpret the shading and the main object to be black still once it's all done and shadows are added.
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Jul 15, 2013 01:31
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gilljoy posted:Yeah I'm trying to do that but it turns out more grey than black I usually paint the whole thing black. Then progressively add grey to the black and layer up to the high points with really thin coats. If done right, the effect is subtle, which is good I think. Like this:  Sorry for the awful cell phone picture, but I think it does an ok job of showing the end result
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Jul 15, 2013 01:47
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That there's a pretty sweet Farseer, though.
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Jul 15, 2013 01:50
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I need advice on bases. I just got my Reaper Bones shipment in, and I intend to use them with D&D 4E (on a 1" Square Grid). So, I would like to keep the bases to a round 25mm. However, I really like the look of the Privateer Press 30mm Sunken Rounded edge. I just find the rounded edge really pleasing and the sunken edge gives the figure a nice frame. I've Googled for 25mm bases with these characteristics, but come up with nothing useful. Does anyone know where I can get 100-plus 25mm Circle Base that has a lip? Has anyone used the 30mm bases for a D&D game set on a 1" Square Grid? Am I making too big a deal of the issue?
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Jul 15, 2013 04:49
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Dpstu6 posted:I need advice on bases. I just got my Reaper Bones shipment in, and I intend to use them with D&D 4E (on a 1" Square Grid). So, I would like to keep the bases to a round 25mm. However, I really like the look of the Privateer Press 30mm Sunken Rounded edge. I just find the rounded edge really pleasing and the sunken edge gives the figure a nice frame. I've Googled for 25mm bases with these characteristics, but come up with nothing useful. Can't comment on how well a 30mm base fits on an inch grid, but I'm fairly certain secret weapon miniatures makes lipped bases, both scenic and blank.
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Jul 15, 2013 04:58
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1 inch is 25.x millimeters so it isn't going to work.
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Jul 15, 2013 05:07
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Dulkor posted:Can't comment on how well a 30mm base fits on an inch grid, but I'm fairly certain secret weapon miniatures makes lipped bases, both scenic and blank. Thanks, and if I can't find 25mm, then I'm sure that link will be helpful for the 30mm bases! I actually got excited when I saw they did have 25mm sunken bases, but, they were beveled and not rounded. So close!
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Jul 15, 2013 05:43
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Dpstu6 posted:I need advice on bases. I just got my Reaper Bones shipment in, and I intend to use them with D&D 4E (on a 1" Square Grid). So, I would like to keep the bases to a round 25mm. However, I really like the look of the Privateer Press 30mm Sunken Rounded edge. I just find the rounded edge really pleasing and the sunken edge gives the figure a nice frame. I've Googled for 25mm bases with these characteristics, but come up with nothing useful.
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Jul 15, 2013 07:44
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Fix posted:That there's a pretty sweet Farseer, though. Thanks, man. Here's a few more equally lovely pictures of it, if you're into that sort of thing.   
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Jul 15, 2013 08:06
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Fnoigy posted:So I gave the shading a try. Edge lightening works out fairly well, but crevice shadowing just looks sloppy and awful, like somebody smeared some murky water over the area. I'm currently using watered-down mixes of my previous acrylic paints, but I think at least a little of the problem comes from having mixed dark gray and black for my shadow color. I think I also made the mixture too dilute. It's especially problematic and sloppy-looking where the curve of the top of the engines slopes down onto the main flat body, where there isn't really a hard crevice. Yeah, diluting normal paints will do that, they simply don't have enough pigment in them once you start thinning, which leads to blotchy results. For better results, you need either washes (which can be bought from Vallejo, GW, Reaper, etc.) or inks. Both have a much higher pigment density than normal paints, especially if you've been using ordinary craft acrylics. If you're feeling adventurous, you can buy oil paints (the stuff in tubes for paintings) and dilute them with white spirits to make an oil wash. You'll need to put gloss varnish on your model before using them, though, as the ethanol will eat acrylic paint. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 09:40 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 09:38
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KozmoNaut posted:If you're feeling adventurous, you can buy oil paints (the stuff in tubes for paintings) and dilute them with white spirits to make an oil wash. You'll need to put gloss varnish on your model before using them, though, as the ethanol will eat acrylic paint.
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Jul 15, 2013 09:48
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Pierzak posted:Will "acrylic" (e.g. Vallejo Game brushed on) varnish suffice, or do we need a special one? I've only ever seen people use spray varnish, but I guess brushed-on should work?
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Jul 15, 2013 09:57
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KozmoNaut posted:I've only ever seen people use spray varnish, but I guess brushed-on should work? Of course it will. Just be careful of pooling and you should be fine.
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Jul 15, 2013 09:59
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I meant acrylic varnish (as opposed to lacquer or other kinds), won't ethanol eat through that?
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Jul 15, 2013 10:21
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Thank you! I find it so odd that the only place to find these is across the pond.
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Jul 15, 2013 16:07
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It's been a while since I last had the drive to finish painting something... but the Cygnar Rangers I got two weeks ago did the trick. Such beautiful models with interesting poses. And rifle barrels bent all too hell. They are so small and brittle that I was too scared to smoothe them out properly   Oh yeah, and the first guy who complains about urban camo being "unrealistic" gets a steam-powered robot to the groin. I love me my blue mans, and this was a way to make 'em feel rangery while still fitting into my paint scheme. Luebbi fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 20:20
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Luebbi posted:Oh yeah, and the first guy who complains about urban camo being "unrealistic" gets a steam-powered robot to the groin. 
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Jul 15, 2013 20:29
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Completed the warpunk gnome necromancer. A fluffy description: Demigods, immortal kings and extra-dimensional entities lead their forces against one another in a brutal war. The recent magic-industrial revolution sees a new scale of fighting: a war that spans the sphere with multitudes fighting and countless dead. On the battlefields of this strange realm wizards are among the elite; the necromancers are never in short supply of ammunition. Wights flow out of deep and forgotten tombs deep beneath the ground. Skeletons burst out of the earth at the feet of the enemy. The slain, gruesome, rise again and strike their former allies. Ghoulish screams and deranged chatter follow this Mage. As the dead tear the flesh of foes, the fighting Gnomes and their allies cheer with fierce rage.     
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Jul 15, 2013 20:54
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Miniature storage, anyone have any suggestions besides using KR cases for everything. Not going to be used for transport really but I don't want things to get damaged when moving the models to and from storage.
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Jul 15, 2013 22:49
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gilljoy posted:Miniature storage, anyone have any suggestions besides using KR cases for everything. Not going to be used for transport really but I don't want things to get damaged when moving the models to and from storage. I have shelves.. thats really about it, if you want containers, Id suggest something line a shallow cardboard box, like lose cans from Sams Club come in. 
LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 22:50
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Luebbi posted:Oh yeah, and the first guy who complains about urban camo being "unrealistic" gets a steam-powered robot to the groin. I love me my blue mans, and this was a way to make 'em feel rangery while still fitting into my paint scheme. Hey, realism isn't the only consideration. There's also just plain looking cool, and if you game with them being able to easily identify them while in use. The blue fills those well.
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Jul 15, 2013 23:02
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LumberingTroll posted:I have shelves.. thats really about it, if you want containers, Id suggest something line a shallow cardboard box, like lose cans from Sams Club come in. Brilliant idea. Unfortunately I don't have room for a set of shelves like that
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Jul 15, 2013 23:09
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gilljoy posted:Brilliant idea. Until you have to dust them!
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Jul 16, 2013 00:05
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I have a display case for model cars that's mirrored in the back that's about four feet across diagonally and about five inches deep. It's got a clear plastic panel in front that's hinged on the top, so dust doesn't get in there so easily. It was meant to hold 21 cars, but each compartment easily holds thirty or so dudes and most vehicles, so long as they aren't too tall or wide. Makes for easy classification. edit: stuff like this works well https://www.google.com/search?q=model+car+cases&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=D5jkUfqfLK-xygH60oA4&sqi=2&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1920&bih=927
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Jul 16, 2013 01:46
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LumberingTroll posted:I have shelves.. thats really about it, if you want containers, Id suggest something line a shallow cardboard box, like lose cans from Sams Club come in. I wish I could get away with this in my house. Wife won't have it. My warmachine stuff is confined to a plastic tub atm.
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Jul 16, 2013 01:54
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Verdugo posted:I wish I could get away with this in my house. Wife won't have it. My warmachine stuff is confined to a plastic tub atm. Bigger house, or better wife?  Thats the basement, the whole floor is mine for my office and game room.
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Jul 16, 2013 04:17
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Hey LumberingTroll since you're the person in these parts who has a laser cutter and MDF. What is the overall cost for cutting something like a 7 inch by 9 inch panel with a few holes in it? And what kind of engraving can you do on them without hurting the overall strength of the finished product?
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Jul 16, 2013 04:19
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LumberingTroll posted:Bigger house, or better wife? Bigger house. If we had the room she wouldn't have a problem with it. 
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Jul 16, 2013 05:00
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It took a solid week of painting, but I finished my Techno-Plague Marines! I really hope you guys like caution stripes, because there's a lot of caution stripes.             
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Jul 16, 2013 05:19
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Good thing I don't paint space marines otherwise I would be reconsidering my hobby after seeing that. Sick OSL and yellow stripes.
dishwasherlove fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 05:44
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Hey LumberingTroll since you're the person in these parts who has a laser cutter and MDF. What is the overall cost for cutting something like a 7 inch by 9 inch panel with a few holes in it? And what kind of engraving can you do on them without hurting the overall strength of the finished product? Depends on the complexity of what you want engraved for costs. Ball park, probably $20 - $25 including shipping (which would be around $5 as long as your domestic). If its super complex it might be a little more as it would mean more machine time. If you got something in mind hit me up in PMs I am sure we can work something out.
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Jul 16, 2013 07:04
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ghetto wormhole posted:Until you have to dust them! Ahh yes very good point! Might try out a box file lined with some kind of magnetic receptor and glue magnets to the botom of the minis
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Jul 16, 2013 07:40
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SRM posted:It took a solid week of painting, but I finished my Techno-Plague Marines! I really hope you guys like caution stripes, because there's a lot of caution stripes. Those look ace. I spent today trying to paint hazard stripes and got super frustrated again. I don't know how you other iron warrior players do it. I really dig all the conversions.
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Jul 16, 2013 08:26
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LumberingTroll posted:I have shelves.. thats really about it, if you want containers, Id suggest something line a shallow cardboard box, like lose cans from Sams Club come in. What are the robot-looking things on the second shelf from the bottom? They look pretty cool.
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Jul 16, 2013 08:28
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Looks like 2nd Ed Space Marines
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Jul 16, 2013 09:13
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Maybe Dust or AT-43 stuff?
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Jul 16, 2013 09:17
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