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Thanks. I ordered the other one. Here is a picture of the one I bought for reference.
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Jul 15, 2013 19:25
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| # ? May 28, 2024 16:46 |
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They look exactly the same but the sti bearing is larger. That goes for the 5x100 04sti and all the older R180 cars too.
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Jul 15, 2013 19:38
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So, has anyone heard of windshield manufacturing defects circa early 2000s? My 2002 had developed a crack from a chip and I had Safelite come out today and replace it. After the replacement was done, the guy told me that he encountered something odd. He said that the urethane glue that was supposed to hold the windshield in peeled off like tape when he took the old windshield out. Normally, you need to scrape out the old glue. He actually called in when he encountered that to see how he was supposed to proceed since he heard of the issue in training but never encountered it before. He said that it looked like it was applied against the clearcoat and that it hadn't adhered properly and then asked me if any recalls were ever issued for the car relating to the windshield. It was his opinion that the windshield would have never stayed in place during an accident the way it was installed, it would have popped right out. Anyone hear of anything similar before?
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Jul 15, 2013 22:51
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I'm flabbergasted that you have a windshield that lasted that long. I think my all-time record is three years and that was driving for two of those years with a technically illegal sized crack through the middle of my sight line. Since I buy used, I have literally never owned a car with its original windshield.
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Jul 15, 2013 22:57
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm flabbergasted that you have a windshield that lasted that long. I think my all-time record is three years and that was driving for two of those years with a technically illegal sized crack through the middle of my sight line. My RS windshield was origional at 150k miles until I broke it like a dumbass :v
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Jul 15, 2013 23:21
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm flabbergasted that you have a windshield that lasted that long. I think my all-time record is three years and that was driving for two of those years with a technically illegal sized crack through the middle of my sight line. You have to clarify that you live in Alberta. I'm pretty sure they cover this point on your driver's exams out there, don't they? 
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Jul 15, 2013 23:44
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Yeah, I've never had to replace a windshield before. This is my first one. The chip was there for years. I didn't notice it at first because it was behind the rear-view mirror, otherwise I would have had it sealed when it happened. By that point, it had been there for awhile so I assumed it wouldn't crack. And it didn't, for a long time. This summer however, it just decided to crack in 3 directions one day. Oh well, the windshield was pitted to hell and back by this point so it will be nice to have a clear one.
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Jul 16, 2013 00:05
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There's nothing nicer than having a brand new windshield, mine was replaced 2 years ago due to a nasty rock chip causing a crack and it looked great after. 2 years later and it's beat up already  would change it again if it wasn't for the fact that it's heated so replacements are $Texas$
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Jul 16, 2013 00:24
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So I just got out of my 36000 warranty, and wouldn't you know it, something broke. Almost every time I get on the brakes moderately hard, the abs, traction control, and hill assist all shut off and their respective lights turn on and stay on. I checked the fuses, checked the OBDII in vain, and nothing. Any advice?
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Jul 16, 2013 01:22
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Newbie question: I just reached 45K miles on my '09 NA Legacy, and my front brakes are starting to squeal so I'l be swapping them out sometime this week. Is it worth it to upgrade to ceramic pads on a non-turbo, daily commuter car? I live in Seattle and drive pretty aggressively on the freeway every day. Also, do I really need to have the OEM rotors turned/replaced at 45K? I don't feel any significant vibrations from the petal and haven't had any other issues with the brakes on this car.
a rowdy mullet fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 02:20
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a rowdy mullet posted:Newbie question: I just reached 45K miles on my '09 NA Legacy, and my front brakes are starting to squeal so I'l be swapping them out sometime this week. Is it worth it to upgrade to ceramic pads on a non-turbo, daily commuter car? I live in Seattle and drive pretty aggressively on the freeway every day. Also, do I really need to have the OEM rotors turned/replaced at 45K? I don't feel any significant vibrations from the petal and haven't had any other issues with the brakes on this car. I'm not sure you could get fully ceramic pads but I wouldn't anyways. I would get semi-metallic street pads, either from whatever part store offers OEM replacement stuff, or if you want to upgrade your pads, rallysportdirect. Be advised that 'performance' pads are going to either squeak, produce tons of dust, wear fast, or all three. It's best practice to have the rotors turned at the same time but I usually don't bother, especially with no symptoms.
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Jul 16, 2013 03:02
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Unless you track the car, I don't see the point in performance brake pads. It's not like they will stop the car any better than the stock pads when you are cruising along and have to stop suddenly. Brakes are so misunderstood.
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Jul 16, 2013 03:04
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daslog posted:Unless you track the car, I don't see the point in performance brake pads. It's not like they will stop the car any better than the stock pads when you are cruising along and have to stop suddenly. Brakes are so misunderstood. Awesome, this car will never come near a track so thanks for saving me some money 
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Jul 16, 2013 03:52
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Regardless of type of pad, you should have the rotors resurfaced when you replace them, and bed the pads properly. It's just generally a good idea for any pad/rotor to work optimally and have a healthy life. Agreed that there is no point to a performance pad on a daily driver unless you're combining it with some sticky tires. If you can mash the brake pedal and lock the tires up, you've got all the brake pad function you're gonna get. Fade isn't really going to be an issue for you unless you drive like a real a-hole. I've had duralast rotors + pads on my 01 RS without complaints, even for RallyX duty. These guys: http://knsbrakes.com/c/car-items/877 list Centric Ceramics for $39/front and $34/rear, and Centric standard front rotors at $65/pair, rear at $46/pair. Should you decide to replace all the stuff. Gonna be drat near the same price as Autozone. KNS are vendors on LegacyGT.com/NASIOC/RS25, so they might even toss you a discount if you ask. si fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 04:02
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Driving the freeway in Seattle is not aggressive driving.
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Jul 16, 2013 07:06
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There is still something to having pads with a little extra bite. The stock brakes tend to be a little soft and I like having them work right away and with less pedal pressure. I'm using stoptech pads and centric rotors and couldn't be happier. They do produce more dust but I have never gotten a squeak out of them, there's no judder, and they work great cold. I can get brake stuff but it's pretty hard to compete with rock auto and amazon and such. Shipping is usually the deciding factor so the closer someone is to michigan or utah the better the deal I can do.
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Jul 16, 2013 07:17
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Yeah, I did smoke the pads on my '03 WRX pretty easily...
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Jul 16, 2013 07:54
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jamal posted:There is still something to having pads with a little extra bite. The stock brakes tend to be a little soft and I like having them work right away and with less pedal pressure. I'm using stoptech pads and centric rotors and couldn't be happier. They do produce more dust but I have never gotten a squeak out of them, there's no judder, and they work great cold. I did stoptech pads and centric rotors all the way around on my RS and enjoy it.
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Jul 16, 2013 13:19
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jamal posted:There is still something to having pads with a little extra bite. The stock brakes tend to be a little soft and I like having them work right away and with less pedal pressure. I'm using stoptech pads and centric rotors and couldn't be happier. They do produce more dust but I have never gotten a squeak out of them, there's no judder, and they work great cold. Agreed as to pads. Something with more bite, even when cold is really nice. Yeah, stop pads can engage abs, but these work better and are easier to modulate. I use carbotechs, which are maybe a touch dusty for some people though.
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Jul 16, 2013 18:29
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Slow is Fast posted:I did stoptech pads and centric rotors all the way around on my RS and enjoy it. Same here on my 02 WRX wagon.
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Jul 16, 2013 19:17
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nm posted:Agreed as to pads. Something with more bite, even when cold is really nice. Yeah, stop pads can engage abs, but these work better and are easier to modulate. I use carbotechs, which are maybe a touch dusty for some people though. I find that on non-performance pads, initial bite is never an issue. I tend to think they have too much. Their temperature range is so far down that they operate ice cold like my carbotechs when warm. I use Carbotech Bobcats on my Legacy, but it has nice sticky rubber to go along with it. I definitely faded the OEM pads bad while AutoXing it. I wouldn't say they're good for most people daily driving though, as they are a bit soft in the winter on the first stops. I think the duralasts on the RS had more initial bite than the bobcats or the ferrodos on there now.
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Jul 16, 2013 19:47
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There is a tractor/bobcat thing outside by our apartment parking rolling around doing some kinda work on the city plumbing, and it actually sounds exactly like my idling EJ20. When I first heard it start up I had to go to the window to check. One of the first candid Subaru moments I've had.
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Jul 16, 2013 22:38
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What's the oldest year they started including this EyeSight™ business? I like that and want it, but I'm not sure what years to limit my searches to. Is that strictly a 13/14 thing?
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Jul 17, 2013 02:37
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I have a chance to pick up a 1997 Impreza outback sport for about $1200 from a friend of a coworker. Is this a decent deal? It's not a color I like but I guess there is always vinyl/plastidip.
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Jul 17, 2013 03:59
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Return Of JimmyJars posted:I have a chance to pick up a 1997 Impreza outback sport for about $1200 from a friend of a coworker. Is this a decent deal? It's not a color I like but I guess there is always vinyl/plastidip. Whether or not it's a deal depends on it's condition and you've given us absolutely no indication of it. Edit: Sorry for sounding like a dick. How many miles/kms are on it? Any rust? Hows the motor? Accident history? VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 04:00
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Bad Munki posted:What's the oldest year they started including this EyeSight™ business? I like that and want it, but I'm not sure what years to limit my searches to. Is that strictly a 13/14 thing? http://m.autoblog.com/2012/03/16/2013-subaru-models-to-see-with-optional-eyesight-safety-system/ A 13/14 thing for sure. I remember reading about it before and a quick Google confirms. Not sure if it has expanded as an option beyond the Outback and Legacy however.
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Jul 17, 2013 04:11
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Return Of JimmyJars posted:I have a chance to pick up a 1997 Impreza outback sport for about $1200 from a friend of a coworker. Is this a decent deal? It's not a color I like but I guess there is always vinyl/plastidip. There's a lot of variables going into it but I bought a miled-out, crashed, CELing green '97 OBS for $1000 and it was the best car I've ever owned. Some more info will definitely help.
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Jul 17, 2013 04:27
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VelociBacon posted:Whether or not it's a deal depends on it's condition and you've given us absolutely no indication of it.    No accidents. Clear coat is pretty bad in a few spots and a CEL for misfire on cyl #2.
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Jul 17, 2013 15:28
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That's not a 1997. It's at least a 1998 based on the dash. It has 16" wheels from a WRX which is a nice upgrade. It's not 95% cancer like mine. I would also be very angry with you if you didn't buy it.
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Jul 17, 2013 15:35
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I'd buy that for $1200. Even if the CEL on #2 means the motor is dead, a new engine at normal shop rates would still make it a decent deal. If those are actual pictures of it, why hasn't it sold? That car would probably sell for $3500 on most Subaru forums.
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Jul 17, 2013 15:42
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si posted:I'd buy that for $1200. Even if the CEL on #2 means the motor is dead, a new engine at normal shop rates would still make it a decent deal. It's not on autotrader or craigslist or anything yet, still a buddy deal. This is just going to be my beater to transport bikes and dogs since I don't want them in my 2013 wrx or the wife's new vw.
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Jul 17, 2013 15:58
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Return Of JimmyJars posted:It's not on autotrader or craigslist or anything yet, still a buddy deal. This is just going to be my beater to transport bikes and dogs since I don't want them in my 2013 wrx or the wife's new vw. If you know a Subaru mechanic to have it checked out, it wouldn't hurt. That misfire on #2 could be an awful lot of things. They are slightly notorious for having leaky spark plug/valve cover gaskets over time, which can kill the plug and cause it (had to fix this on my RS). You can usually see oil leaking from the plug area out of the valve cover if this is the case. That chassis looks like it's in awfully good shape for the age though. drat near looks like stock photos.
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Jul 17, 2013 16:03
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I'd ask how many miles, but I would take just about any 2.2L 5-speed in a clean car for $1200.
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Jul 17, 2013 17:29
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You need to buy it. I'm serious in that my '97 was the best car I ever owned. It might even make you sell your '13.
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Jul 17, 2013 17:29
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That thing looks immaculate, looks like an amazing steal for $1200. The misfire is probably a plug wire or something along those lines. Once you get it let us know how it acts with the misfire and that should help narrow down what it might be.
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Jul 17, 2013 17:37
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Get that OBS.
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Jul 17, 2013 19:11
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Ok I'm looking for a newly used or new (13) Outback for the wife. She has also expressed interest in the Crosstrek now. Any mechanical words of wisdom for this search? Looking more long term vs. short as whatever we get will still be under warranty.
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Jul 17, 2013 21:39
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quote:No accidents. Clear coat is pretty bad in a few spots and a CEL for misfire on cyl #2. Worth noting that the misfire code could have been tripped in error awhile back and was never cleared. This was the case with a pathfinder I used to own.
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Jul 17, 2013 21:57
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Totally TWISTED posted:Ok I'm looking for a newly used or new (13) Outback for the wife. She has also expressed interest in the Crosstrek now. Any mechanical words of wisdom for this search? Looking more long term vs. short as whatever we get will still be under warranty. The XV is loving wicked and you should get that in either: lime green, olive drab or orange. Then sell me the wheels off of it. Mechanically there don't seem to be a lot of complaints about the XV or the '12+ Impreza that I've noticed lately. I don't know anything about the Outback.
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Jul 17, 2013 22:00
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| # ? May 28, 2024 16:46 |
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Can anyone recommend a cheap source for quality high-temp silicone hose? The turbo to intercooler coupler on my spearco tmic is prematurely worn, so I figure I might as well replace it before throwing on the 25g next week. 
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Jul 17, 2013 22:04
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