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Those strings are a normal part of 3D printing at this stage. Yes, you're correct that they are caused by printing without supports -- at those points on the model the printer is basically extruding into midair, and if the filament doesn't successfully bridge across the gap it will droop down and make little loops and squiggles. You can eliminate them by using supports, by altering your model to remove steep overhangs, or occasionally by futzing with temperature, cooling and speed settings so the plastic hardens in place and bridges more effectively. Otherwise they're just a thing that happens and you get to clip them off with wire cutters. Watch the printer the next time you're printing a model that has overhangs and you aren't using supports -- you'll see it happening as the printer reaches the relevant layers.
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Jul 21, 2013 04:03
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Totally had the glass build plate for my Replicator 2X spontaneously shatter in my hand last night as I was applying kapton tape with soapy water. 4 stitches later and now I can't print again for a while.
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Jul 21, 2013 04:11
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I've been wanting to print some more, but I want to start doing ABS but don't have a heated platform yet. I was looking around to see if there might be someone custom-building aluminum platforms for the Ultimaker and I found that AliExpress sells an accessory aluminum plate for the Ulitmaker as well as one for the RepRap. I'm thinking about buying it, as it's only $30 bucks with free shipping (despite being a month transit time), but I'm wondering if the plate will be in spec. Has anyone else tried them?
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Jul 21, 2013 07:30
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Faltion posted:Totally had the glass build plate for my Replicator 2X spontaneously shatter in my hand last night as I was applying kapton tape with soapy water. 4 stitches later and now I can't print again for a while. Were you applying great force to it, or was it hot and you immediately put cold water on it? That's kind of insane.
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Jul 21, 2013 14:59
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The weird thing is that when it broke I was just holding it roughly parallel to the earth and wasn't putting any pressure on it other than with the hand supporting it. The plate wasn't even that large, roughly 6" by 25", so it wasn't a lot of mass being supported. It happened so fast too. One moment it's fine the next I'm bleeding everywhere. So bizarre.
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Jul 21, 2013 18:57
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This was an aftermarket plate because the stock one wasn't satisfactory right? How's the printing been otherwise? 
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Jul 21, 2013 21:01
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Yeah it was aftermarket. The printer has been incredibly frustrating recently, but having a really flat surface helps quite a bit. I'm finding one of my 2 extruders just hates me and gives me the most grief, while the other one works relatively well 80% of the time. I think it's because of warping of the feeding assembly I printed to replace the stock one that pretty much gave out after unpacking. So once I can print again I'm going to try and reprint it and see if I can fix it. Otherwise clogging seems to be the major issue and that's mainly because I'm having a hell of a time getting a good nozzle height. I've been using a 1.5mm feeler gauge to set my height and it helps. I'm sure most of my woes now are just due to my inexperience.
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Jul 21, 2013 21:54
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I'm still working on acquiring the last few parts for my Wolfstock, but I figured you guys might be interested in this kickstarter which promises open sourced 3d scanner hardware at the end - http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fredini/coney-island-scan-a-rama
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Jul 22, 2013 00:19
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Faltion posted:Yeah it was aftermarket. The printer has been incredibly frustrating recently, but having a really flat surface helps quite a bit. I'm finding one of my 2 extruders just hates me and gives me the most grief, while the other one works relatively well 80% of the time. I think it's because of warping of the feeding assembly I printed to replace the stock one that pretty much gave out after unpacking. So once I can print again I'm going to try and reprint it and see if I can fix it. Otherwise clogging seems to be the major issue and that's mainly because I'm having a hell of a time getting a good nozzle height. I've been using a 1.5mm feeler gauge to set my height and it helps. Another good argument for borosilicate glass (pyrex). Sounds like you were sold plate glass? I have a pyrex sheet but I upgraded to aluminum and I'm never looking back. Young Freud posted:I've been wanting to print some more, but I want to start doing ABS but don't have a heated platform yet. I was looking around to see if there might be someone custom-building aluminum platforms for the Ultimaker and I found that AliExpress sells an accessory aluminum plate for the Ulitmaker as well as one for the RepRap. I'm thinking about buying it, as it's only $30 bucks with free shipping (despite being a month transit time), but I'm wondering if the plate will be in spec. Has anyone else tried them? An aluminum print bed is totally worth it. Get some polymide tape to cover the top, it helps with adhesion and is quite robust so you won't have to change it regularly (lasts 5-10x longer than blue tape). I have never shopped from AliExpress but that plate *looks* alright. It's only 1/8" of an inch which is a hair thinner than usually recommended. It'll heat up faster but may not be as flat, especially at temp, but it's probably better than anything you've used up to now. My plate is 3/8" thick, though I got it for free from a friend. It works great. It almost seems to print better with this than before, I wonder if the extra mass or the fact it is tightened to the carrier more tightly than a thinner plate is adding some rigidity? I think a 1/4" thick plate would be the sweet spot. Having said that, if you have a good experience buying that one, I may buy one too to try it out and compare to my thick one.
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Jul 22, 2013 16:57
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It actually was a borosilicate plate, which made it shatter into only a few pieces (6 to be exact because I dropped it into a metal sink) and not a million tiny shards. The broken pieces weren't even that sharp, just the part that cut me basically turned into a spear.
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Jul 23, 2013 01:38
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kafkasgoldfish posted:...aluminum print bed... How is one of those when printing with PLA? The reason I love my glass print bed is that PLA sticks incredibly well directly to the glass, no messing about with tape or ABS juice or anything.
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Jul 23, 2013 14:51
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I print almost exclusively with PLA. I haven't tried it directly on the aluminum but I've heard it does fine but I know it sticks great to the polymide tape. I'm not sure how well I can compare the adhesion to aluminum versus glass. It seems like it works better on the alum/poly because I've had less issues but that may be due to better calibration by me. Who knows. Incidentally, surface finish with polymide is almost as good as the glass except you get seams from the tape but the tape itself is perfectly smooth.
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Jul 23, 2013 16:30
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Im in the process of putting together a reprap prusa i3. I broke some y corner pieces and the x-end-idler and I was wondering if I could paypal someone here to print and mail me these pieces? I live in california and I bought the kit from someone in AUS so getting it from them would take much longer.
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Jul 23, 2013 22:14
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You could try http://www.makexyz.com/ which is a hook-up for people with printers willing to, you know, for money :bigtran:
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Jul 23, 2013 22:35
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madkapitolist posted:Im in the process of putting together a reprap prusa i3. I broke some y corner pieces and the x-end-idler and I was wondering if I could paypal someone here to print and mail me these pieces? I live in california and I bought the kit from someone in AUS so getting it from them would take much longer. Sounds like fun. PM me or post some links to what you need here.
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Jul 24, 2013 01:44
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pm sent, thanks! Edit: Does anyone know where I can find some solid documentation for prusa i3 assembly? Best I can find is this: http://78.47.92.212/i3_documentation_pics/singlepage.html What about how to program the audrino board, etc? madkapitolist fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Jul 24, 2013 |
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Jul 24, 2013 02:27
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At this point what is the best printer for small production runs of parts. Cost is effectively irrelevant but was thinking ideally sub $2.5k in order to avoid the requirement to perform a formal cost benefit. Looking for ease of use and setup, consistency and reliability. Available in Australia. Build area of the part is 30x30mmx70mm so as I understand almost every printer available these days can do these dimensions. Looking to print up to 12 parts per day.
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Jul 24, 2013 10:33
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If you can get it, the AO-100 meets all the other requirements. It's on the pricey side but is very, very well made and the support is phenomenal.
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Jul 24, 2013 15:32
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For ease of use, pp3dp recently added the Up! Plus 2 with automated calibration and leveling. And their software has basically perfect support material generation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6HZiUA673Y They also have an Australian distributor, but it doesn't look like they list the Plus2 on that site just yet.
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Jul 24, 2013 20:03
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Is anyone here familar with greg wade's extruder assembly for the prusa i3? It looks like it needs 2 springs to maintain idler pressure but I am missing one, any idea what size the spring is or should I just bring it into a hardware store and see if they have one?
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Jul 25, 2013 04:49
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madkapitolist posted:Is anyone here familar with greg wade's extruder assembly for the prusa i3? It looks like it needs 2 springs to maintain idler pressure but I am missing one, any idea what size the spring is or should I just bring it into a hardware store and see if they have one? You're going to be looking for something like .297OD, .049WD, .669FL Lulzbot sells kits for the extruder containing these. More commonly you can find .69 FL. What would anyone here recommend in the department of 3d CAD software for Linux? My laptop is dead and I'm in a pinch until I can get that fixed, leaving me with a Linux workstation, without Solidworks.
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Jul 25, 2013 08:36
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What do you guys recommend for gluing ABS to ABS? I've got some parts I need to glue together and need a strong bond. Something that I can sand.
Faltion fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Jul 29, 2013 |
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Jul 29, 2013 23:26
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Faltion posted:What do you guys recommend for gluing ABS to ABS? I've got some parts I need to glue together and need a strong bond. Something that I can sand. Acetone.
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Jul 29, 2013 23:54
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Spazzle posted:Acetone. Acetone does an awesome job. If you add some ABS to the acetone you get an actual glue like substance that you can apply to the two parts to bond them together. You could also use super glue.
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Jul 30, 2013 00:08
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E-6000 works great as well. Actually E-6000 works great on EVERYTHING. Acetone will chemically weld the pieces together, but if you need a gap-filling glue you might need to make an ABS-acetone slurry or use E-6000 (which is quite thick). vvvv Oh yeah, actual ABS glue works too, surprisingly! 
The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Jul 30, 2013 |
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Jul 30, 2013 00:17
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You can also go to a hardware store. Back in the plumbing area, they have ABS glue, for use on ABS plumbing pipes. It's a slurry of acetone, MEK, ABS, and some orange color. It's thicker than acetone; easy to apply where you want it, and it doesn't run too much. It may turn parts slightly orange, however.
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Jul 30, 2013 13:58
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Here I was thinking some of my printed projects are ambitious, but this guy is making an Aston Martin DB4 from a Solidoodle: http://www.replicadb4.com/default.aspx I also discovered recently that the reason my printer was failing so spectacularly was because the Rep 2X's hood was over heating the machine and the heat soak was causing air prints after about 10 minutes. Took it off and it's printed everything perfectly since. Faltion fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Jul 30, 2013 |
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Jul 30, 2013 22:27
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Do you mean the hood as in the top cover, or the 'walls'? I know the 2X has both, just wondering what it was for you. I just ran across some prints made with a new filament from ColorFabb, some PLA/PHA blend. They look amazing.
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Jul 30, 2013 22:33
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Faltion posted:Here I was thinking some of my printed projects are ambitious, but this guy is making an Aston Martin DB4 from a Solidoodle: http://www.replicadb4.com/default.aspx  He started in February and is about 72% complete with the body by beginning of August. Jesus Christ.
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Jul 30, 2013 22:35
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It's a removable cover made of the same kid of clear plastic as the windows, it just plops on, but it does too good job of keeping the heat in. I didn't actually get mine for about 2 months after I received my printer, so I haven't been using it until just recently. I like using it for a couple of minutes while the first layers go down but not anything past that.
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Jul 30, 2013 22:37
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Out of curiosity, what's the temperature like in your work area? My workshop is sub-ground level so it's quite cool usually. I tried a hood on my cupcake for a while but it led to the same kind of thing. Heat bled up along the filament and eventually it stripped and stopped printing. Without a hood I have warping, etc issues but it does actually PRINT. My print head/filament/etc thermals must be borderline.
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Jul 30, 2013 22:45
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The room I have the printer in usually stays pretty warm because I have other electronics in it always running, so generally about 75 Fahrenheit, maybe a little warmer. I haven't had really very much warping with the new flat build plate and as of late I've been printing with a lot of helper disks to keep areas prone to lifting during prints to stay down which seems to result in less warping down the line.
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Jul 30, 2013 22:59
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Faltion posted:Here I was thinking some of my printed projects are ambitious, but this guy is making an Aston Martin DB4 from a Solidoodle: http://www.replicadb4.com/default.aspx The site mentions assembling the MDF framework using bolts and glue but how would you assemble something made of printed plastic on that scale? bolts and clips, heat based plastic welding or just ABS glue as mentioned above your post by: babyeatingpsychopath posted:You can also go to a hardware store. Back in the plumbing area, they have ABS glue, for use on ABS plumbing pipes. It's a slurry of acetone, MEK, ABS, and some orange color. It's thicker than acetone; easy to apply where you want it, and it doesn't run too much. It may turn parts slightly orange, however. Verizian fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Jul 30, 2013 |
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Jul 30, 2013 23:03
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That guy seems to be gluing the parts together and using some sort of putty to smooth the parts. Ultimately he's going to use the printed parts to make a mold for fiberglass pieces.
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Jul 30, 2013 23:35
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Yeah, but what do you even do with a 1:1 replica of a car? It's not like you can put it on display in your living room.
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Jul 31, 2013 00:07
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Close enough to fit my plans anyway. I've got a few designs I've been working on for going back to uni in October and was planning to print off an ABS frame cut into 4" by 6" chunks, fix them all together somehow then apply a skin of sandwiched Carbon fibre/Kevlar/Carbon fibre laminate. Vacuum forming makes this pretty simple as it draws the epoxy through multiple layers of material like syrup being pushed through a sieve. Cost to cover a square metre is like £15 to £30 for 3-5 layers, though you would need a minimum of 8 layers arranged as CF/K/CF/K/K/CF/K/CF for anything on the scale of safe vehicle paneling. SynthOrange posted:Yeah, but what do you even do with a 1:1 replica of a car? It's not like you can put it on display in your living room. With fibreglass body panels you can bolt them onto any old chassis and make a cheap family car of roughly the right size look like an expensive supercar.
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Jul 31, 2013 00:15
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Did you even read the blog? He's using the printed parts to create a master to create a mold from. He calculated the cost to NZ$2500 vs NZ$14000 for a traditional carved foam master. I think it's pretty ingenious.
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Jul 31, 2013 00:20
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Monoprice.com has the filament for sale now. It's $26 for a 1kg spool. No idea if that's a great price but if its anything like the rest of their products I'd assume its a good deal.
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Jul 31, 2013 18:00
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The gently caress? Thats awesome. More reasons to love them I guess.
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Jul 31, 2013 19:39
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| # ? Jun 9, 2024 02:52 |
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Annexed posted:Monoprice.com has the filament for sale now. It's $26 for a 1kg spool. No idea if that's a great price but if its anything like the rest of their products I'd assume its a good deal.
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Aug 1, 2013 06:44
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