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Well, I think I found the source of my squeaky floors, but I don't think fixing them is going to be so simple. The bedroom in question has a step down from the rest of the house to give it slightly taller ceilings. Looks like that was accomplished by notching the floor joists so that instead of sitting on top of the metal beam here, only the top two inches does. For the most part, the joists are balanced on a 2x4 inside the joists, which is only held up with a few pieces of metal strap. That metal strap has either stretched, or come un-nailed so the 2x4 has rolled off the metal beam and all of the joists have cracked. This doesn't look safe, and I don't know how to fix it properly.  
eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 18:49
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Oh jeez, that's ridiculous. How the gently caress do people think that is acceptable?? That 2x4 strapped on there is such a hacky hack, god. Hell that floor doesn't look like it would be all that safe, I'd get in a contractor to have a look at it to be honest. Definitely don't put anything heavy up there!
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Jul 16, 2013 18:53
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I'm thinking maybe jack up one joist at a time to pre-crack height, remove the dumb 2x4. Cut some 2ft pieces of 2x10 and lag one to both sides of each joist so the repair pieces are sitting on the inside of the metal beam. Reasonable?
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Jul 16, 2013 19:16
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Uhh, no. You cannot support an entire floor with what are essentially 2x2s. That 2x4 underneath isn't supporting anything. Tear out those floor joists and fix that properly! Put it at the same height. You'd better thank your deity of choice that floor didn't collapse while you were in there. What is holding up the other end?
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Jul 16, 2013 20:00
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The other ends are sitting on top of concrete. The foundation was poured with a lower top to accommodate the drop down. If I marry another piece of 2x10 on each side of each joist, except sitting two inches lower so the repair pieces sit inside the metal beam, there'd be 8 inches of overlap to bolt through the existing joist. Is that not legit?
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Jul 16, 2013 20:09
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Wow, what the gently caress. Did they really notch the joist and expect 2 inches of it to provide support for a floor? Then when it didn't work, someone jammed a 2x4 under it to add support  This is the least of your problems, but I believe that the load on an ibeam needs to come from the top of the I, can't just wedge poo poo onto the bottom like that. Edit: Nice to see a picture where extension cords stapled in place for permanent use isn't the biggest issue ntd fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 20:13
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eddiewalker posted:The other ends are sitting on top of concrete. The foundation was poured with a lower top to accommodate the drop down. A proper sistering job should fix that. You have the right idea-- jack up the floor to where it needs to be then attach another joist piece that will rest on the beam properly. Tom Silva prefers construction adhesive and nails to bolts because nails have a lot of shear strength and you can use a lot of them to spread the load to make sure the boards act as a single piece. The longer the sistering board the better, no shorter than 3 feet is where you should be aiming.
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Jul 16, 2013 23:20
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What's sad is instead of that half-assed poo poo, whoever did that could have bought actual engineered straps special-made for that purpose that would have actually worked and worked well. http://www.strongtie.com/products/CFS/S_LBV-S_B.asp 
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Jul 16, 2013 23:41
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Very similar to the poo poo done on my house by previous owners.. Just nailed 2x6s to act as floor joists without any hangers. Thankfully it is getting fixed as we speak with sistered joists and proper strap hangers. The whole notching it out thing to put it on that I beam takes it to another level though, of course the wood is going to split like that. I did not know there were straps that can be attached to the I-beam. That'd probably be a good bet.
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Jul 16, 2013 23:44
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This was literally on ask this old house like 2 weeks ago, I didn't realize it was so loving common for people to saw through the boards that hold up their floors.
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Jul 16, 2013 23:55
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I have a concrete garage floor cleaning question. Our garage floor has all sorts of grime and stains on it (mainly motor oil, road salt, and some hardened glue from an old project). I want to give the garage floor a good cleaning before I repair some holes in the concrete. Is an electric pressure washer appropriate to use in this situation, or is it overkill? Do I need to use a concrete cleaning detergent in addition to a power washer?
melon cat fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Jul 18, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 14:22
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Cakefool posted:Your roaster will draw as much current as it needs, if the breaker on that circuit can't supply that it'll trip so I'd check voltage on each of the outlets first. How do I do that?
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Jul 17, 2013 14:36
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eddiewalker posted:Well, I think I found the source of my squeaky floors, but I don't think fixing them is going to be so simple. The advice you've been given about sistering these joists is right on the money, but I don't think it's enough from these pictures. 2 X 2" x 10"/12" are really strong and will do the job, but even if you replace them and still have them sitting on another piece resting on the beam, then the weak point at the notch is essentially unchanged. In fact, maybe even worse due to increasing the load to include twice as much lumber. From what I can see, you will also need to address the connection point between the levels. That means either figuring out how to put proper hangers in there, or adding permanent jack posts (or better yet lally columns) under a beam to carry that end of the floor. From those pics, it would probably be easier to put in the carrying beam and some posts. You'll lose some space in the basement, but you'll gain a lot of peace of mind. Edit - I should have mentioned that if you put in a beam and some posts, make sure you have proper footings for them, and don't install your jack post or lally column upside-down. I see it all the time and some people do it intentionally as a way to forestall corrosion or provide additional stability. In my opinion, if you're thinking of going down that path, then it's a pretty clear indication that you're using the wrong support. Oh - and make sure you beam is properly sized. May want to consult an engineer here, it'll be worth it to you in the end. Killing Flies fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 15:00
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Sorry to hear about your cosmetic floor. Those pictures should definitely be crossposted to the Crappy Construction thread.
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Jul 17, 2013 16:17
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nwin posted:How do I do that? You say you've got a multimeter--for  I'll assume it's an analog one with a dial to adjust the scale. Turn the dial to the AC volts setting (one that goes at least as high as 120 if there are multiple ones), stick the red lead into the short slot and the black lead into the long slot. Your voltage should be consistent throughout your house and should be in the 115-125V range.
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Jul 17, 2013 18:36
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stubblyhead posted:You say you've got a multimeter--for Ok, I checked inside and outside outlets. Everything goes to 125V. So what would explain the difference in power output? Maybe it's just in my head? I swear it takes longer outside.
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Jul 17, 2013 19:33
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nwin posted:Ok, I checked inside and outside outlets. Everything goes to 125V. A multimeter will test your voltage, but doesn't generate any load (pulls very little current) so it's possible that when that circuit is under load its voltage is dropping for some reason. I can't really think of what would cause that to happen that would be limited to that circuit/outlet.
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Jul 17, 2013 19:46
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stubblyhead posted:A multimeter will test your voltage, but doesn't generate any load (pulls very little current) so it's possible that when that circuit is under load its voltage is dropping for some reason. I can't really think of what would cause that to happen that would be limited to that circuit/outlet. And that can be tested by testing another outlet in that box (or using a power strip if there is only one) while to roaster is going. This will give you your voltage sag. Then test on a completely different circuit in the house with the roaster running to see if the sag is present there as well.
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Jul 17, 2013 20:11
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQG1rsK9UFE What type of saw is this person using if it can cut through both metal and wood (you can see gouge marks in the wood work platform)?  It looks a small hand-held saw. The size and power of the thing makes it appealing to me since I'm only an amateur, and I don't need a gigantic saw for the projects I do since I'd like to make small details, instead of hardcore sawing action on large pieces of wood.
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Jul 17, 2013 23:26
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EagerSleeper posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQG1rsK9UFE Looks like a coping saw with a fine tooth metal blade. For my question - is there a more common name for that plastic or rubber U-channel that would be used to cover the edge of something thin like heavy gauge sheet metal? Searching amazon for plastic U channel and plastic edge guard isn't turning much up.
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Jul 18, 2013 01:41
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SkunkDuster posted:Looks like a coping saw with a fine tooth metal blade. Grommet edging. That's the slotted stuff for tight corners, but they make just unslotted black stuff, too. Search for "edging" there at grainger. You can find anything at grainger.
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Jul 18, 2013 02:57
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Grommet edging. That's the slotted stuff for tight corners, but they make just unslotted black stuff, too. Search for "edging" there at grainger. You can find anything at grainger. Perfect, thanks!
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Jul 18, 2013 04:19
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EagerSleeper posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQG1rsK9UFE It's a Coping saw. If you're looking for a powered version for intricate cuts, you're looking for a Scroll saw. I shouldn't say that the two are interchangeable, since a coping saw is actually originally for coping like this, but the fine, thin blade makes it a natural choice for intricate work like that where a full on scroll saw would probably be overkill.
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Jul 18, 2013 15:20
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Does the ground wire in an outlet really need to be attached to the junction box, or just to the ground in the Romex? If the former, why, aside from "code says so?"
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Jul 18, 2013 17:45
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NancyPants posted:This was literally on ask this old house like 2 weeks ago, I didn't realize it was so loving common for people to saw through the boards that hold up their floors. When I first bought my house, this is what I found:  the previous owners had decided they wanted a flush to the floor bath tub. Simple enough for them, just cut the joists and lower the clawfoot tub down. They literally just butchered two joists and called it a day, zero support. Jacked up the joists, put in a girder and pier blocks. Lifted out the 1918 clawfoot and restored it. Heres how she stands today 
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Jul 18, 2013 18:50
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High Lord Elbow posted:Does the ground wire in an outlet really need to be attached to the junction box, or just to the ground in the Romex? If the box is metal it should be grounded. If it ever became energized (loose wire slipping out), it would save your rear end
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Jul 18, 2013 18:51
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stubblyhead posted:A multimeter will test your voltage, but doesn't generate any load (pulls very little current) so it's possible that when that circuit is under load its voltage is dropping for some reason. I can't really think of what would cause that to happen that would be limited to that circuit/outlet. A loose wire nut or connection would cause voltage to test normally under no load but drop once load is applied. Check that all screws in the panel are torqued down and start testing wire nuts to make sure no wires are loose. Its possible its also a bad breaker
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Jul 18, 2013 18:55
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dwoloz posted:Lifted out the 1918 clawfoot and restored it. Heres how she stands today That renovation is a god damned thing of beauty.
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Jul 18, 2013 19:11
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High Lord Elbow posted:Does the ground wire in an outlet really need to be attached to the junction box, or just to the ground in the Romex? If the box is metal, then yes. The why is really "the code says so." 250.96(A) posted:General. Metal raceways, cable trays, cable armor, cable sheath, enclosures, frames, fittings, and other metal non-current-carrying metal parts... shall be bonded where necessary to ensure electrical continuity and the capacity to conduct safely any fault current likely to be imposed on them. You can look back through the revisions to when that section was inserted to see what the reasoning was to include that in the code, but largely, that's why we do it. Logically, it's so if a wire slips out of an outlet and touches a metal box, the breaker will instantly pop instead of energizing the box to shock you next time you touch it.
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Jul 18, 2013 20:21
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:If the box is metal, then yes. The why is really "the code says so." Thanks - that's what I wanted to know.
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Jul 18, 2013 20:57
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Quick question regarding pressure washers. I want to pressure wash our garage's concrete floor, but the stores only rent out gasoline-powered devices. I'm concerned about renting the gasoline-type because I'll be using it in our garage, which obviously has a very large door opening to outside. Is it at all safe to use a gasoline-fueled pressure washer in an enclosed area like a garage?
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Jul 18, 2013 23:32
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melon cat posted:Quick question regarding pressure washers. I want to pressure wash our garage's concrete floor, but the stores only rent out gasoline-powered devices. I'm concerned about renting the gasoline-type because I'll be using it in our garage, which obviously has a very large door opening to outside. Is it at all safe to use a gasoline-fueled pressure washer in an enclosed area like a garage? They usually come with pretty long hoses, like 25ft or 50ft. You should still be able to stick the pressure washer outside. The electric pressure washers are crap, stay away from them.
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Jul 18, 2013 23:43
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melon cat posted:I have a concrete garage floor cleaning question. Our garage floor has all sorts of grime and stains on it (mainly motor oil, road salt, and some hardened glue from an old project). I want to give the garage floor a good cleaning before I repair some holes in the concrete. Is an electric pressure washer appropriate to use in this situation, or is it overkill? Do I need to use a concrete cleaning detergent in addition to a power washer? Rent a pressure washer and use 3500-4000 PSI. Get the cleaner they recommend, use the nozzle with the rolling steel ball. Be careful at cracks because you are at a pressure that could spall the floor up. Should take about ~3 hrs.
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Jul 19, 2013 00:00
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After consulting with the contractor who fixed my neighbor's identical structural issues, here's how I ended up addressing my 12 cracked joists: Raised the floor one joist at a time with an automotive jack sitting on wood blocks and a 4x4 post. Sistered 2x12 onto the cracked 2x10s so the new pieces make contact with the subfloor, but also hang below the old joists low enough to slot into the i-beam. The inside of the beam is only 8 inches tall so the tops had to be notched, but with two sisters per joist, that's 16 inches of wood total. The flanges of an i-beam may not be rated for as much load as the tops, but they're better than what I had. Liberal use of construction adhesive and a carriage bolt every 10 inches in a W pattern. Nails were difficult to drive with a hammer in the space between joists, and the bolts made it easy to draw all the sandwiches together. Ideally I would have sistered the whole length of the joists, but after my first test-fit, the garage door wouldn't open  so we just did 6 foot repair sections.The floor above feels rock solid now. No more squeaking and creaking. It feels as if we lost some carpet padding, since the floor doesn't flex with every step. Glad I never ended up standing on top of my car in the garage.
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Jul 19, 2013 16:00
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Okay, so our shower arm (along with the head) fell off today, and I think I can see why. The pipe itself is, uh, too small for the shower arm to go in. What? I thought pipes like that were standard size? Is there any recourse to this? Adapter? Or do we need to get someone to tear down most of the shower, replace the pipe, redo the shower (or of course do it ourselves)? Like, the shower arm literally will not screw in. The previous one was held in with some sticky tape and nothing else, which is why it naturally just fell out when tugged slightly.
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Jul 20, 2013 14:52
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Bring everything you can to the nearest hardware store. They have an aisle of adapters loose in bins and you can just keep trying things out until you find the right one. You could also just measure the inner and outer diameters, but I like to know for sure that I have the right part because making two trips to a big box hardware store in one day is a fate worse than death. If you own the house you might want to replace the whole pipe because that smaller pipe is probably reducing your shower's water pressure.
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Jul 20, 2013 15:25
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The tape you're seeing is probable plumbers thread tape, by the way.
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Jul 20, 2013 15:30
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What's on the back side of the wall where the shower head is located? Usually the plumbing can be accessed from behind. Either the showerhead neck was not threaded in properly or the threads rusted out - but that is typically obvious.
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Jul 20, 2013 17:34
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silvergoose posted:Okay, so our shower arm (along with the head) fell off today, and I think I can see why. The pipe itself is, uh, too small for the shower arm to go in. What? I thought pipes like that were standard size? How about some pictures? Take one of the pipe and another of the fitting inside the hole in the wall.
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Jul 20, 2013 22:19
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When I bought my house, the bank redid the kitchen with granite. It looks good, but the opening for the oven/range is oversized. There is about 1.5" extra on one side of the range and maybe 1/3" on the other. I hate having cooking juices and whatnot fall down there and get gross. Is there a simple cover that can be near the gas burners and cover the gap for looks and to prevent stuff falling through the crack?
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Jul 21, 2013 16:41
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