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Buy that e36. I rode the bus for 8 loving hours to get my e36 m3. Completely worth it.
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Jul 25, 2013 23:29
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The e36 is definitely nicer.
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Jul 25, 2013 23:32
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ok, so another shootout: Would you rather E36 328i or E46 330i?
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Jul 25, 2013 23:44
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330i hands-down.
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Jul 25, 2013 23:55
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If it was a track day car I'd get the 328 because I'd mod the hell out of it, but the E46 330s are awesome daily drivers.
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Jul 25, 2013 23:56
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330i. I've owned two 330s (one ZHP, one Sport) and one 328is, but e46 is just better. Extra power with the same mileage (or better with a 6spd), more comfortable, more interior room, better interior, better headlights. The only arguement I could make for an e36 is that I do prefer the compactness of the interior and the lighter weight. E36 is pretty much the better track/slalom car because you're starting out with less weight and the engine is still plenty to have fun in.
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Jul 26, 2013 00:59
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 Crank pulley fell off my '04 320d. Can I just put it in gear (5th?) to lock the engine (M47TU / 6 speed manual) or will I need a special tool? Google results give conflicting results on the forums. There also appears to be a special tool for refitting (See: http://bmw.workshop-manuals.com/3_Series_E46/320d_M47TU_TOUR/index.php?id=601) I have no ides what this does or how important it is.  100nm +60deg + 60deg + 30deg.
stump fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Jul 26, 2013 |
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Jul 26, 2013 15:37
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Popete posted:Yeah sorry about that I was referring to both e36/e46 M3s. Do it, I did a fly-n-drive for the E30 M3 and it was great. Nothing like 800 miles in a 25 year old car to find all the little buzzes and rattles. Only things that sucked were no cruise control or working cigarette lighter to power phone/gps...and the loose shifter that buzzed the whole loving drive. edit: poo poo just remembered my first basketcase E30. Talked a roommate into driving to West Virgina (from west-central WI) with me to drive it back, around 1000 miles. Did a timing belt the weekend after getting it home and realized the belt was beyond shot and really shouldn't have made the trip. No PPI, barely had enough money to get back to WI. Or the E21. Flew to CA, drove it to WI then TN with blizzards thrown in for fun. Things that failed on the trip: ignition, coil, heater, battery and I'm sure more I'm forgetting. TLDR: fly-n-drive is awesome NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Jul 26, 2013 |
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Jul 26, 2013 17:01
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Popete posted:Is this a stupid idea? Have any of you guys flown 1000+ miles to buy a 16 year old car and drive it back? I flew 400 miles for a then-30-year-old car in far worse shape, and drove it back. Do it. stump posted:Can I just put it in gear (5th?) to lock the engine (M47TU / 6 speed manual) or will I need a special tool? Google results give conflicting results on the forums. No matter how German they design these things, I can't think of any way they could set up a manual transmission car where putting it in top gear with the brake set and the drive wheels down, wouldn't be enough to lock the crank in place.
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Jul 26, 2013 17:17
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For those who bought cars long distance, how do you negotiate sight unseen? How do you get a PPI prior to picking up the car?
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Jul 27, 2013 01:26
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lostleaf posted:For those who bought cars long distance, how do you negotiate sight unseen? How do you get a PPI prior to picking up the car? I hoped on google maps and started searching for bmw dealerships and specialty shops. Found one and called them up, explained the situation and they told me to have the seller call them. Seller brought it over then picked it up after the inspection. I just made to sure to tell the guy doing the inspection to take a lot of pictures and take his time, ended up taking around 3 hours. I didn't do any price negotiation until I got there but I did mention things the inspection found that I didn't like so they were aware I was going to negotiate. Had a cashier's check for ~90% then cash for the remaining to negotiate with. Got there, they had dropped the price 1k after the inspection and negotiated from there. Really it went smooth as hell. I would recommend getting a dealer plate or something if possible...I spent 2+ hours in the CT DMV getting a transit plate.
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Jul 27, 2013 01:33
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What a weird day... Got an email this morning saying the e36 M3 in Houston was sold so no go this weekend  I'm sitting at work bummed out but I decide to see if this dealer in Chicago has finally gotten pictures up of a black 96 e36 M3 with 89k miles for $8500. They put photos up yesterday apparently because I have been checking everyday for a few weeks. The photos look great, the car looks to be in good condition so I say screw it I'm taking a half day and going down to Chicago (2 hour drive). Call up my roommate and he is down to come with and drive my e30 back if need be. We get there after some horrible traffic at a little after 4:00 PM take the car out for a test drive inspect it and get to haggling. Talked him down to $7500 as it had a tiny rust bubble near the trunk lid and the glove compartment panel is a bit beat up. Just got home after a long drive in the rain and heavy traffic but it is an awesome car. I have never driven something like this before, I've owned a few e30's but this is a different beast and I love it so much more torque and power. I had to pull over in some very heavy rain as the car felt like it wanted to kick out and was hydroplaning at 40 mph I definetly can't drive it like my e30. All in all I'm very happy with how things turned around today and the car looks and drives killer.
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Jul 27, 2013 04:01
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Congrats! Do you have any photos? As for the hydroplaning, you need some better tires.
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Jul 27, 2013 14:50
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I'm going to see if I can find a better camera to use today for some photos. Yeah the tires are bit worn and could use some air as well, I may just end up buying a new set pretty soon.
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Jul 27, 2013 15:38
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Even with worn out tires the traction control stuff tends to keep the car pretty settled. One thing you might check is to see if it has an aftermarket chip or something interfering with the TCS. We test drove a E36 M3 in Chicago ~10 years ago and almost spun it going around a sandy corner from a standstill. We messed with the TCS a bit but could never get it to kick in, we mentioned it to the dealer who pretty much said "Oh that's an issue with this car, we're not sure why."
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Jul 27, 2013 16:26
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IOwnCalculus posted:No matter how German they design these things, I can't think of any way they could set up a manual transmission car where putting it In top gear with the brake set and the drive wheels down, wouldn't be enough to lock the crank in place.
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Jul 27, 2013 16:36
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DIY Auto Repair in Denver To The Rescue! $315 in parts. $140 for 3 hours of labor. This morning, I replaced the water pump, water pump housing, thermostat, oil change, fan-delete mod, and switched from the green coolant that the DAPO put in at some point back to the BMW blue coolant. I'm SO GLAD I paid them to take out the coolant plug on the block. I kept reading "BEWARE! It's really messy" - but I had no idea how messy. The coolant ran down every horizontalish surface (exhaust, trans case and cooler lines, frame, body, catalytic converter, etc) until if found someplace inconvenient to drip from. Ugh. Clean, well stocked bays. $24.95/hr to do it yourself. $45 to have them help, and $89 to have them just do it for you. Super reasonable, and the folks there are super nice. These folks were so great that I don't think I'm going to another mechanic ever again.
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Jul 27, 2013 20:03
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Kenny Rogers posted:DIY Auto Repair in Denver To The Rescue! God drat, I wish that sort of thing existed here. That sounds just about perfect for us non-garage havers.
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Jul 27, 2013 20:23
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I've been reading up a bit on having the e36 M3 lowered seems the two options are lower sport springs or getting coilovers. People seem to think the Eibach pro-kit spring set is the way to go and will lower the car ~1 inch and the kit is only $250. I have never attempted something like installing springs but I'm not completely mechanically stupid and I'm thinking about attempting this. How difficult would this be? Or should I just say screw it and pay my mechanic to do it? I wish we had something like the DIY shop around here as well that sounds perfect for someone like myself to tinker around with the car.
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Jul 27, 2013 20:35
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Popete posted:I've been reading up a bit on having the e36 M3 lowered seems the two options are lower sport springs or getting coilovers. People seem to think the Eibach pro-kit spring set is the way to go and will lower the car ~1 inch and the kit is only $250. I have never attempted something like installing springs but I'm not completely mechanically stupid and I'm thinking about attempting this. How difficult would this be? Or should I just say screw it and pay my mechanic to do it? Why are you lowering it? Lowering it for track days, autocross, etc is different than lowering for cosmetics. The process is the same but the springs/shocks are very different. As for as installing springs it's easy assuming you don't have a poo poo load of rust or something to deal with. Rear is as easy as supporting the car on jack stands, remove the lower shock bolt to let the control arm droop then swap the spring. Front you undo the top bolts for the strut, pull it out then remove the top hat to slide out the spring. Like this but rent a spring compressor...don't use loving zip-ties - http://syclone.motocrew.com/E36/suspension.htm
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Jul 27, 2013 20:57
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Popete posted:I've been reading up a bit on having the e36 M3 lowered seems the two options are lower sport springs or getting coilovers. People seem to think the Eibach pro-kit spring set is the way to go and will lower the car ~1 inch and the kit is only $250. I have never attempted something like installing springs but I'm not completely mechanically stupid and I'm thinking about attempting this. How difficult would this be? Or should I just say screw it and pay my mechanic to do it? Don't go screwing with the suspension geometry, the last thing the world needs is another lowered M3. Mine came with the comp pack springs (and I didn't even order them!) and it's about as stiff as I'm comfortable with. Do maintenance items, rubber, paint correction, all the stuff the car needs to be really cherry, then focus on stuff like that if you really want to.
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Jul 27, 2013 21:18
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Well, my car just threw a 19 0x12 DME code (P01397 in OBDII)...looks like a VANOS seal job is in my future; unless my exhaust CPS has actually failed. 
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Jul 27, 2013 22:15
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Kenny Rogers posted:DIY Auto Repair in Denver To The Rescue! That sounds magical. I spent my afternoon replacing an oil filter housing gasket in a cramped garage with not quite the right tools.
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Jul 28, 2013 00:21
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Did the slave cylinder in the e30 today. Forgot what it was like to not have to double clutch.
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Jul 28, 2013 04:19
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Kenny Rogers posted:DIY Auto Repair in Denver To The Rescue! Do they have tools there you can use, what about a lift? I can't believe these don't exist everywhere! Edit - apparently they are hard to turn a profit from all the regulations and lawsuits, according to some random forum posts I could find on Google. Binge fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Jul 28, 2013 |
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Jul 28, 2013 20:55
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Popete posted:I've been reading up a bit on having the e36 M3 lowered seems the two options are lower sport springs or getting coilovers. People seem to think the Eibach pro-kit spring set is the way to go and will lower the car ~1 inch and the kit is only $250. I have never attempted something like installing springs but I'm not completely mechanically stupid and I'm thinking about attempting this. How difficult would this be? Or should I just say screw it and pay my mechanic to do it? I'm at odds with Das Volk on this topic. I feel that there is a nice balance of ride height that can be achieved with some modest lowering springs and appropriately chosen struts/shocks. I recently "upgraded" my EDC-equipped E92 to the DDC (ZCP) suspension as it sits lower (shorter struts) in combination with some milling to the top hats (to offset the added height from the camber plates,) and lowering springs to achieve the following:  I feel it is a nice balance, if at the very least making my 15mm spacers seem useless. Thankfully my 9.5" square setup of 220M wheels will be finished soon so I'll get the front fenders filled back up 
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Jul 28, 2013 21:04
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Binge posted:Edit - apparently they are hard to turn a profit from all the regulations and lawsuits, according to some random forum posts I could find on Google. That's the one right there. As cool of an idea as this seem like in theory I know enough about running a business to know this is a disaster waiting to happen. Even if you were turning a profit you're always just one or two unforeseen events caused by customer stupidity away from loss of liability insurance (getting dropped by any and all carriers) and then it's just a skip and a hop right on to bankruptcy.
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Jul 28, 2013 21:46
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thealphabetsez posted:I'm at odds with Das Volk on this topic. I feel that there is a nice balance of ride height that can be achieved with some modest lowering springs and appropriately chosen struts/shocks. I recently "upgraded" my EDC-equipped E92 to the DDC (ZCP) suspension as it sits lower (shorter struts) in combination with some milling to the top hats (to offset the added height from the camber plates,) and lowering springs to achieve the following: At least with your car you can do a 10mm drop, or going further, install some shaved E36 M3 bump stops and retain the stock suspension travel, albeit at the cost of ride comfort. With the E36 he's just losing travel and grip by doing that. Also your wheels and tires are 8lbs per corner heavier than mine  
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Jul 28, 2013 22:00
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Das Volk posted:At least with your car you can do a 10mm drop, or going further, install some shaved E36 M3 bump stops and retain the stock suspension travel, albeit at the cost of ride comfort. With the E36 he's just losing travel and grip by doing that. Also your wheels and tires are 8lbs per corner heavier than mine I installed the E36 M3 front bump stops just for that purpose In addition, I threw the top hats on a mill and removed 9mm, allowing for 4mm more travel than even afforded by the Dinan suspension. For the rear, I opted for the Dinan top hats which already enable additional travel for EDC vehicles. I'm currently awaiting my BPM performance tune stuff which will also reprogram the EDC to the DDC settings, enabling a firmer sport+, and a dynamic sport (to accompany the dynamic comfort) settings. BTW, the group buy has a couple slots left if you're interested:Group Buy I didn't know the weight difference was that great! Is that based on front (9") or rear (10") measurements? I do love the ZCP wheels, a lot, but couldn't pass up the great deal I got on a set of square 220M's I was recently comparing the 9.5" rears of my car to the new CH-R's (19x8.5) my sister picked up for her Audi and was genuinely surprised at how much heavier her package feels in direct comparison. I'd say a lot has to do with the opting for performance all seasons. I'm also exceptionally anxious for some Pilot Super Sports, seeing as the comical option: Pilot Sport Cups aren't available in the 275/30/19 I'm hunting after.
thealphabetsez fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Jul 28, 2013 |
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Jul 28, 2013 22:31
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I'm not set on having it lowered at this point just thinking about projects in the future. I'm taking the car this week to a local guy I like a lot and he tuned up my e30 when I bought it a few years ago. Gonna have him thoroughly go over the car and check the OBD codes. The ASC and ABS lights are on which could be any number of things but it seems like the common problem is a faulty wheel speed sensor so I'll have that fixed first. I don't want the car dropped so it's scrapping the ground over every bump but an inch for me would be nice aesthetically, I honestly don't know what that would do to the ride quality so it is just a cosmetic thing for me and if it ended up that it would compromise the ride I would not do it. The guy who owned my e30 before had it lowered a fair amount and I love how it looks so doing the same on the M3 would be nice.
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Jul 29, 2013 00:57
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thealphabetsez posted:BTW, the group buy has a couple slots left if you're interested: It looks like the group buy is just for those with an E9xM3---do you know if that's the case or can this E90 328i owner get in on this?
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Jul 29, 2013 05:12
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I'm buying new tires for my 328Ci, and apparently I cannot get the Sumi HTRZIII's in my wheel size(205/55/R16). Of the following in my price range, what would make a nice, quiet, summer DD?: - Continental ExtremeContact DW - Kumho Ecsta SPT - Hankook Ventus V12 evo K110 - BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2 All appear to be reviewed well on TireRack, but is there a "best" option here?
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Jul 29, 2013 15:42
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where do you live and does your car "sleep" outside? I only ask as I have the Conti DW's on my E46 330 and they are lumpy as hell in the winter, (sleeping indoors in California) until they warm up. Other than that, they are fantastic.
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Jul 29, 2013 16:03
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I live in Michigan so the roads are poo poo, but the car is garaged when not in use. I do have a set of winters, though.
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Jul 29, 2013 16:27
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It seems the starter solenoid has given up on my E46 (can hear the starter motor spinning, but the engine doesn't turn over). Is it worth the trouble to replace just the solenoid or should I do the whole starter? edit: Ugh, the DIYs I've found so far seem to show this being possibly the worst part to replace on the entire car. Some are saying to drop the driveshaft and tilt the entire engine/trans assembly down. Others say to take off the intake manifold and go from the top. Either way it's not going to be fun, it seems. I think this might turn in to one of those jobs that snowballs, as either way involves getting past other parts that probably need replacement by now and if I'm already there I may as well do it. wolrah fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Jul 29, 2013 |
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Jul 29, 2013 16:31
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It can be done with no engine tilting or manifold removal. I can write you a quick DIY when I get home with a few pics I have sitting around.
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Jul 29, 2013 19:43
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wolrah posted:It seems the starter solenoid has given up on my E46 (can hear the starter motor spinning, but the engine doesn't turn over). Is it worth the trouble to replace just the solenoid or should I do the whole starter?
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Jul 30, 2013 00:39
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Ok I didn't take a lot of pictures , but I do have a summary: -Remove everything on top of the engine near the windshield, up to the blower motor plastic cover. -Remove the undertrays/metal skid plate The "upper" bolt needs to be removed from above, in the space you create by removing the blower motor cover. There is no possible way to get a torx socket on it, but a 3/8" 12pt socket will fit it perfectly. I recommend having a ratcheting wrench and a regular 3/8" 12pt. You'll need another wrench to hook on and get enough torque.   The "lower" bolt can be gotten at from underneath with a wobble joint and a LOT of extensions. Enough that I had my mess of extensions behind the transmission mounts.    Once you break those loose, loosen the 3 nuts on the starter. Then tap it out with an extension from underneath, and remove all the connections. It can then be fished out from underneath, near the control arm. You may have to remove/push aside hoses to fit stuff. Then just fish the new one in, redo all the connections, and put the bolts back in. Total time doing it without removing intake or driveshaft was about 6 hours. I've also done BMW starters both other ways - intake manifold removal and driveshaft removal. I prefer either of those ways - intake manifold if it's a rusty car, driveshaft if it isn't. The method I explained is best for those that don't really have the tools/space to do either of those methods.
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Jul 30, 2013 01:16
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  Have appointment to sort out a deal on Friday. 60k km, 6-speed. Appears bone stock. Sepang Bronze is really, really hot in person.
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Jul 30, 2013 04:45
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sofullofhate posted:
Gorgeous, do it. Does anyone know if the darker grey wheels were a factory option? I've seen a few with that exact color and I think that the darker grey would look good on my silver z4m. Sort of unrelated: I took my front plate off and it looks so much better.  Bring on the tickets! omgitstheinternet fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Jul 30, 2013 |
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Jul 30, 2013 05:16
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