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I have Ohlin FPSs on my 2005 STi and I am starting to get some clunk in the rears. How hard is it to repack/grease these struts? I've seen the how-to for the stock struts and it looks pretty straight forward, but I am not sure how much of a difference there is, if any.
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Jul 27, 2013 02:25
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It should be a similar process, but shoot RCE an email about it. They will know best.
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Jul 27, 2013 05:06
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A club member locally rebuilt his 06 STI Ohlins (not sure about model though, but I'm thinking there can't be too many) in the same way as the stock struts. I'm heading over there hopefully some time in the next week so he can help me out with my 04 STI struts before they go in the DD.
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Jul 27, 2013 15:37
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Got my car back. Shifts feel less lovely. Is this thanks to the tsk?
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Jul 27, 2013 23:28
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nm posted:Got my car back. Shifts feel less lovely. Is this thanks to the tsk? Undoubtedly. Imagine you're the throw-out bearing. Imagine the kind of life you have to put up with and the poo poo you get from the clutch and its thugs. Your only real friend is the input shaft and that fucker suddenly drops the floor out on you so you're not even spinning in a normal pattern. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jul 27, 2013 |
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Jul 27, 2013 23:48
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Meat Mitts posted:So I've recently got the sudden urge to mod my STI.... I feel like a CB is a pretty big commitment. Mine is loud as hell and it's pretty middle of the range as far as volume goes. It's an AMS and more often than not I'd rather have stock. My stock muffler fell apart and I threw the AMS on a few days ago with my new replacement header. At that level a CB is only really for noise, if you want any semblance of reasonable volume I'd stick with factory. A down pipe will provide a bit more noise in the cabin as well as real performance gains. Cat-less can be pretty stinky and unpleasant too so I wouldn't sweat high flow cats. I'm not a fan of Cobb products but I would want a custom tune with any air intake. The problems is their proprietary "marry/unmarry" bullshit screws up a lot of ECUs and customers of theirs. Finding a decent tuner is difficult and a car build is really only as good as the tune IMO. At the very least your parts have the chance to work to their potential. It makes such a difference. I LOVE KSTech for intakes, it's especially a good intake for tuning. Those guys have some other cool stuff FYI. I would imagine a 2013 STi is a capable drat vehicle. If I had a new STi I'd leave it stock and drive the poo poo out of it. That factory airbox is a nice piece and the stock tune is pretty sophisticated. I wouldn't ditch those. Maybe suspension definitely tires. Good fluids and maintenance. The factory setup is designed by some smart fellas to all work harmoniously together. Replicating that level of polish is super hard.
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Jul 28, 2013 00:24
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I drove an '07 WRX Limited today and it was fun on a bun. There were a good number of obvious bolt-on modifications to it (CAI, some fancy pipes and poo poo under the hood that I didn't bother to look at closely), and everything seemed to be done correctly but the Edit: Found a list, I am a moron:
Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Jul 28, 2013 |
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Jul 28, 2013 00:39
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Been noticing some loss in power in my 02 WRX. It just feels sluggish to accelerate when you put the hammer down. It isn't the first time and I've taken it to an independent shop before and they didn't say anything was wrong. I did notice that resetting the ECU made the power come back but then slowly over time it would go away again. I'm pretty new to fixing my own car. First thing I thought was maybe O2 sensor was bad since resetting the ECU maybe make it go back to stock air:fuel or whatever but I don't know how to check if that's the problem or what because yeah I'm a noob. Any ideas on what to check or any other problems it could be? Thanks.
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Jul 28, 2013 01:00
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Off the top of my head for "what else could it be?" Most 02s are going to be on their way to their first coilpack replacement pretty soon, so ignition strength might be something to think about as well. If the ignition system is sickly I could imagine the car aggressively learning that the timing should be retarded. However you're not seeing misfire codes quite yet so the coils aren't really toast.
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Jul 28, 2013 01:10
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Well looks like the clutch on my STi is finally giving up the ghost and slipping in 5/6th gear. From what I can tell it's the original (110,000 miles).
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Jul 28, 2013 01:37
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G-Mach posted:Well looks like the clutch on my STi is finally giving up the ghost and slipping in 5/6th gear. From what I can tell it's the original (110,000 miles). My clutch does not like WOT either. So, what I'd like is something that feels close to the stock clutch but is rated higher. Is there a "sweet spot" clutch that can take say 400 hp to be on the safe side and still feels similar, or am I looking at a leg breaker in traffic?
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Jul 28, 2013 02:26
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Quick; someone with more money than me go buy this car! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970...=item2a2f41fe3f 
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Jul 28, 2013 04:29
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GrAviTy84 posted:Been noticing some loss in power in my 02 WRX. It just feels sluggish to accelerate when you put the hammer down. It isn't the first time and I've taken it to an independent shop before and they didn't say anything was wrong. I did notice that resetting the ECU made the power come back but then slowly over time it would go away again. I'm pretty new to fixing my own car. First thing I thought was maybe O2 sensor was bad since resetting the ECU maybe make it go back to stock air:fuel or whatever but I don't know how to check if that's the problem or what because yeah I'm a noob. Any ideas on what to check or any other problems it could be? Thanks. Are you making boost when this happens?
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Jul 28, 2013 05:20
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nm posted:Are you making boost when this happens? I don't have a boost gauge so I can't tell for sure, but it does sort of feel like the turbo isn't spooling up as strong as it should. I did notice the effect wasn't as bad tonight and I'm thinking that maybe that is because the air cooled off quite a bit since this afternoon if that is at all a possible thing.
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Jul 28, 2013 06:47
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GrAviTy84 posted:Been noticing some loss in power in my 02 WRX. It just feels sluggish to accelerate when you put the hammer down. It isn't the first time and I've taken it to an independent shop before and they didn't say anything was wrong. I did notice that resetting the ECU made the power come back but then slowly over time it would go away again. I'm pretty new to fixing my own car. First thing I thought was maybe O2 sensor was bad since resetting the ECU maybe make it go back to stock air:fuel or whatever but I don't know how to check if that's the problem or what because yeah I'm a noob. Any ideas on what to check or any other problems it could be? Thanks. Do you have an accessport? Checking your DAM would be the first thing I'd do. That said when I noticed my 03 had been losing power it was due to rod knock and the motor pulling basically all boost.
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Jul 28, 2013 09:03
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I just did two logs on my STi. DAM is at zero, but the car is boosting, accelerating, generally running great. The logs are long and reflect the end of the car being warmed up and a spirited drive. Plenty of boost and load, very few knock below -1 deg, but DAM pinned at zero. Anyone have any suggestions? Update: I reset the ECU with the Accessport. Drove around for a while and DAM went from 0.81 where it started suddenly back to 1.0. I drove it casually and did some fifth pulls cause I figured if it was gonna get hosed, up hill in fifth would do it. Anyway, picked up a few -1.4 feedback knock events during high boost and load, but it always learned them away incrementally and quickly. Although no one wants to see knock, I see this as the computer doing it's job at least, and since it was never more severe than 1.4 deg being pulled, I feel like it's "ok". I guess with my limited understanding, fine knock learning "predictably" stayed at zero since I had just reset the ECU. Anyone have any insight? Any pros feel like looking at a couple well formatted logs? I will email... I'm going to keep logging but I honestly barely drive the car. Yesterday was the first day in a few weeks, drove through a massive rain. THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Jul 29, 2013 |
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Jul 28, 2013 17:48
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Is the stock (Clarion) head unit on new WRXs really that bad? Everyone on other forums says it should be the first thing you replace when upgrading the stereo system. I'm not an audiophile and I want to keep a stock look, but I do want a better sounding system. I just got a powered subwoofer as a gift, but I'm wondering if I should wait to install speakers and / or a new head unit at the same time to really make a difference.
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Jul 29, 2013 14:41
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sim posted:Is the stock (Clarion) head unit on new WRXs really that bad? Everyone on other forums says it should be the first thing you replace when upgrading the stereo system. I'm not an audiophile and I want to keep a stock look, but I do want a better sounding system. I just got a powered subwoofer as a gift, but I'm wondering if I should wait to install speakers and / or a new head unit at the same time to really make a difference. So I just went down this path. I swapped my front speakers and added a powered sub to my stock HU. I drove around like that for about two weeks and the sound was better, but it was a pain in the rear end with the sub overpowering the speakers in some songs and being nonexistent in others. I constantly found myself playing with the gain on the sub amp to control the volume of it (which is not what the gain is for, but you have no other way to control it). I finally just bit the bullet and ordered a Pioneer HU and ASWC-1 to keep my steering wheel controls. The HU says clarion, but defies the quality you would expect. I even changed the "hidden" options to set the EQ to "through" and turn loudness off. It made it better, but still annoying. I have read some people have swapped the HU and kept the stock speakers and were happy as well. I have a pair of Focal coaxials in the front, pioneer HU, alpine 4ch driving the fronts, and an 8" polk sub in a small ported enclosure. It is miles apart from stock, and I never meant to go that far with it. Check out AE64.com for SVXdc's wiring guides and information, and subaruaudio.net for everything else.
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Jul 29, 2013 15:17
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Got my koni's installed super easy, but found my vacuum line after the MAF to the Boost Control Solenoid has cracked/broke. I've taped off the line leading to the intake so it doesn't suck unmetered air in the meantime, but is it just replace a vacuum line, or is this an OEM part i need?
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Jul 29, 2013 15:22
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sim posted:Is the stock (Clarion) head unit on new WRXs really that bad? Everyone on other forums says it should be the first thing you replace when upgrading the stereo system. I'm not an audiophile and I want to keep a stock look, but I do want a better sounding system. I just got a powered subwoofer as a gift, but I'm wondering if I should wait to install speakers and / or a new head unit at the same time to really make a difference. It's not great, but far from the worse I've heard. Though the nice thing about the head unit is that it already looks aftermarket and poorly fit from the factory, so no matter what you put in (within reason) it won't look worse.
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Jul 29, 2013 17:00
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sarcastx posted:It's not great, but far from the worse I've heard. Though the nice thing about the head unit is that it already looks aftermarket and poorly fit from the factory, so no matter what you put in (within reason) it won't look worse. I installed mine using the metra kit and it really doesn't look bad. If you stick with a double din radio, you can pick up a double din bezel from Subaru that is a perfect fit. The stock radio and bezel are slightly wider than a true DDIN space. The DDIN factory bezel I was looking at was a JDM part, but I believe there is a USDM part number for the bezel that can be ordered without purchasing from a JDM importer/overseas vendor. On another note, while it is fresh in my mind, has anyone tried to retrofit their 3G WRX headlights with HID projectors? I stumbled upon TheRetrofitSource.com while looking at the options for swapping out STI HIDs. TRS has a bi-xenon kit that actually looks pretty nice provided it functions like an OEM unit. I miss the bi-xenons on my A4, and for $300 for the kit this seems almost too good to be true. I do realize that I am baking my brand new headlights to split them for the retrofit, but that seems pretty easy too so long as you have a decent oven and your wife won't chew your rear end about the stink. The latter is questionable in my case  I did a quick search and didn't see any direct DIYs on this, or independent reviews. TRS is in Atlanta where I am so I guess I could even take my lights to them if they were willing.
Aflicted fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Jul 29, 2013 |
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Jul 29, 2013 17:18
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blindjoe posted:I might, I should use my vcmc membership for something. Since the 29th is a weekday I probably have right to the end to sign up. Registration is now open.
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Jul 29, 2013 21:55
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toplitzin posted:Got my koni's installed super easy, but found my vacuum line after the MAF to the Boost Control Solenoid has cracked/broke. Replace the line. As long as it's not the one on the wastegate with the restrictor pill in it (feel the line, it's probably bulging where the pill is) then a normal rubber line is fine.
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Jul 29, 2013 22:08
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What are the most common sources of mild vacuum leak in an STi? Cobb thinks I may have one. The only thing I've messed with is intercooler removal I think twice. I didn't replace the BPV gasket either time. Should I have? I'm pretty worried that the car is boned.
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Jul 30, 2013 21:26
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It's real easy to tear that gasket or seat it wrong so it leaks. I've never replaced mine when it's been off but I also try and minimize contact with it. Is there a shop near you with a smoke machine? That could probably find the hose at fault quickly. Probably a torn or blown off intake emissions hose.
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Jul 30, 2013 21:47
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Ugggg... Got the vacuum line replaced, but now I have The Clunk in the right rear. WTH, is it likely just the rear sway not tightened? Not putting the domes back on the rear towers? It doesn't do it often, usually on a bump when turning right, and definitely from the right rear.
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Jul 31, 2013 04:59
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toplitzin posted:Ugggg... If by domes you mean the little plates over the struts on the inside of the car, those won't cause the problem. Either the end links, dead strut, or some hosed up bushing on that corner. Probably end links, though.
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Jul 31, 2013 17:42
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It's real easy to tear that gasket or seat it wrong so it leaks. I've never replaced mine when it's been off but I also try and minimize contact with it. Thanks for the advice. I think I'll grab a BPV gasket just to rule it out. As far as smoke machine, the local guy wants 45 bucks to do it. I might just try to do that myself in my garage  I'm mostly kidding but 45 dollars is retarded.
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Jul 31, 2013 18:05
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Yeah a cheap hookah is like $15.
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Jul 31, 2013 18:14
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Larrymer posted:If by domes you mean the little plates over the struts on the inside of the car, those won't cause the problem. Either the end links, dead strut, or some hosed up bushing on that corner. Probably end links, though. I've just replaced all 4 corners with Koni inserts, and a rear sway off an 02 sedan, so I'm guessing end link or bushing.
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Jul 31, 2013 19:01
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So I've got a friend who wants to lower and make his 2010 Forester (non-turbo) handle better, what's he looking at? Would Koni inserts work on one of these (I know very little about performance suspension). Should he play with the sway bar setup? He also wants to make it faster, but I'm not optimistic he'll get much from an intake an exhaust on a non-turbo car.
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Jul 31, 2013 19:29
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Jared592 posted:So I've got a friend who wants to lower and make his 2010 Forester (non-turbo) handle better, what's he looking at? Would Koni inserts work on one of these (I know very little about performance suspension). Should he play with the sway bar setup? If he wants to make it faster he should sell it and get another car. Period. If he wants to make it turn better and sit lower, I'm sure you can get lowering springs or maybe retrofit impreza junk. I don't know about late model foresters and how much interchanges as much as I do the earlier stuff, which was "just lower it on wrx stuff".
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Jul 31, 2013 19:33
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So I've decided to roll with the Continental ExtremeContact DW's because of a combination of car and driver test reports, tirerack.com survey results, their treadwear compared to the others I was looking at, and the price point. Something noticed when I took the car in worries me. The passenger front tire had a lot of wear on the inside side of the tread. There was disproportionate wear on the driver's side, too but not as bad, the rears looked fine. Is this just indicative of hard cornering/driving style or is there a suspension problem that needs addressing? How do I diagnose it if it is suspension? 2002 wrx wagon fwiw. I have a bluetooth OBD scanner coming today so hopefully it can shed a bit of light on my powerloss problem.
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Jul 31, 2013 19:35
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GrAviTy84 posted:So I've decided to roll with the Continental ExtremeContact DW's because of a combination of car and driver test reports, tirerack.com survey results, their treadwear compared to the others I was looking at, and the price point. Something noticed when I took the car in worries me. The passenger front tire had a lot of wear on the inside side of the tread. There was disproportionate wear on the driver's side, too but not as bad, the rears looked fine. Is this just indicative of hard cornering/driving style or is there a suspension problem that needs addressing? How do I diagnose it if it is suspension? 2002 wrx wagon fwiw. Have you had an alignment recently?
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Jul 31, 2013 19:38
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Slow is Fast posted:If he wants to make it faster he should sell it and get another car. Period. Thanks, that confirms what I was thinking re: power. Especially where there is a turbo variant in existence, it'd likely be a lot cheaper to just trade on an XT. GrAviTy84, sounds like an alignment is in order.
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Jul 31, 2013 19:42
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Is that something I can do myself or should I take it in to a specialist?
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Jul 31, 2013 19:43
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GrAviTy84 posted:Is that something I can do myself or should I take it in to a specialist? It's easier and faster to just take it somewhere. Make sure your steering wheel is straight when they give it back to you.
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Jul 31, 2013 19:52
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GrAviTy84 posted:Is that something I can do myself or should I take it in to a specialist? Or that fancy guy in la if you can drive to la on a weekday.
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Jul 31, 2013 22:01
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nm posted:Pruetts precision alignment in redlands. having more knowledgeable goons that live near me owns. thanks. is an alignment a "wait in the lobby for it to be done" job or a "drop off the car and go dick around town for a few hours" job?
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Jul 31, 2013 22:09
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GrAviTy84 posted:having more knowledgeable goons that live near me owns. thanks. Depends, if you can make an appointment and they stick to appointments and run on time then you can easily wait for it. Hell they might even let you sit in the driver seat so it is weighted right and align it. If its a regular tire place etc... then they will do it when they have time and your at the mercy of them so dropping off is best if you hate watching TV in uncomfortable lounge chairs. You might luck out and they have wifi so you can browse the forums, because that is all the internet is for right? Ultimately depends on the place.
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Jul 31, 2013 22:13
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