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Picked up a radjet 420 and maidened it last night, fast little fucker for a micro on 2S. I've got it dialed back to 60 dr and 50 expo and it handles really well, flip it over to 100/0 and drat it's twitchy. Well worth the $60 + $10 if you already have some 2S 180-300mAhs. 
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Jul 28, 2013 13:12
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Another video just cruising around the park. I've just updated to arducopter 3.0.1 and am going through the process retuning all the pids https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASg4k7A3qjo I really need to go and fly somewhere more interesting than the many parks of vancouver.
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Jul 29, 2013 18:26
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Just about ready to try flying my bixler II. Flap servos are in and linked to the 3 pos switch for down, flat, and up. Making use of slowed response setting. I also swapped the motor and propeller, which definitely has more thrust. I also placed the ESC on top of the fuselage just behind the cockpit hatch. I think the last thing I really should do is the tape reinforcement. One issue I have is the ailerons. They are plugged into ail l and ail r, but in the remote they seem to both be controlled by channel 4. I need to reverse just the one side though as they both go up or down, which means they won't let me roll the plane. I also can't set the trim off the servos independently. My best guess is I'll have to remove the template aileron mix, and find the channels myself.
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Jul 30, 2013 18:22
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Normally you use a y-splitter and plug both aileron channels into the same RX channel, and the move opposite directions by virtue of their mounting orientation in the wing. What transmitter/radio do you have again? Did you stay with the 9Xr? The documentation for that OrangeRX 3-axis Rx look more like this: Of course, with ER9x firmware the channel "labels" are meaningless because you can assign any function to any channel but since this Rx has gyros on specific channels then you need to stick to those stock assignments.
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Jul 30, 2013 20:38
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mashed_penguin posted:Another video just cruising around the park. I've just updated to arducopter 3.0.1 and am going through the process retuning all the pids Whoa, are you doing the optical compensation in software, or with actual optics? If its in software, please share how you did it!
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Jul 31, 2013 03:39
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I'm using the 9x radio with opentx. Tried flying today with, very limited success. Plan tended to roll over to the right end I'd end up coming down either nose first or cartwheeling. Fairly certain on my receiver its labeled ail L and ail R. But are you saying I use a y-connector for the ail 1 and the outer flaps, then another Y with a reverser for the inner flaps? I'm currently using both ail L and Ail R, and they both link to the aileron channel by default on the radio. Then I'm using Gear and Aux for the inner flaps and mix them together. Oh well, lots of time to figure that out while I source a new wing spar. the last crash wasn't very gentle.
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Jul 31, 2013 03:56
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Golluk posted:I'm using the 9x radio with opentx. Outer flaps are the Ailerons. Typically you use two servos wired into the same radio channel. Both servos should be mounted in opposing directions. Example:  Inner flaps are the flaps. Both servos should be mounted the same direction, so that if you wire them on one channel they both move the same direction. Servo flaps example: 
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Jul 31, 2013 04:45
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So I've got my 1.3/1258 gear. Now I'm looking for an flytron uhf system. Finding FPV components can be such a bitch.Jim Silly-Balls posted:Whoa, are you doing the optical compensation in software, or with actual optics? If its in software, please share how you did it! Pretty sure you can do this in Premiere : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZQBInr7-GY
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Jul 31, 2013 13:27
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Golluk posted:Oh well, lots of time to figure that out while I source a new wing spar. the last crash wasn't very gentle. Can't tell if you're in the US or not, but you can get a solid 6mm thick 1m spar here, it ran about $35 shipped after their outrageous shipping/handling charges. How much more powerful is the motor you added, and did you get the smallpartscnc motor mount? I had some serious torque roll issues when I upgraded to a significantly more powerful motor (unlimited vertical  ). If you can angle the motor to the left slightly, 6:30 if the nose as at 12 and you're looking at it from the top down. I'll try and remember to get a picture for you when I get home.
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Jul 31, 2013 14:25
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ease posted:So I've got my 1.3/1258 gear. Now I'm looking for an flytron uhf system. Finding FPV components can be such a bitch. Oh, not available in Premiere for Mac  Dammit steve jobs.
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Jul 31, 2013 14:33
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devmd01 posted:Can't tell if you're in the US or not, but you can get a solid 6mm thick 1m spar here, it ran about $35 shipped after their outrageous shipping/handling charges. I'm thinking of ordering from hobbyhobby since I'm in Canada. Looks to be about 20 bucks or so with shipping. The motor is a D2826-6 2200kv out runner, with a 6x4e prop. It's on the stock mount. I don't think torque roll is an issue since I'd have to aim the motor at 5:30 to counter what it was doing.
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Jul 31, 2013 15:03
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Whoa, are you doing the optical compensation in software, or with actual optics? If its in software, please share how you did it! I'm doing it in after effects. Its pretty easy you just add filter -> distortion -> optics compensation. The settings I'm using are 65 deg and check the remove distortion checkbox. You obviously lose a bit of FOV doing it and it will soften the edges of the frame a little bit. I think it makes gopro footage look a lot more cinematic though. I didn't fully straighten the image though as it got way too soft at the edges.
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Jul 31, 2013 16:52
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Had a closer look at the spar, and it was a fairly clean break. I'm thinking of just gluing a smaller shaft inside to hold it together. I also found out the receiver has the two outputs Ail 1 and Ail 2 linked to one channel, but opposite each other. I used the Y connector and attached both to Ail 1. I can't trim them separately on the radio, but they are working as intended now. And finally, it looks like the stabilizer will work. I can rotate the receiver and see the control surfaces react in a way that would counter it. I initially thought I should have the left stick's up/down control throttle, and L/R control roll. Then have the right stick's up/down control the elevator, and the L/R the rudder. The idea being I could aim the planes direction with my right thumb, while worrying about roll with the left. In practice though it looks like you tend to roll the plane and pull up to turn. So it might be more intuitive/simpler to make the right thumb control elevator and ailerons? I think I need a trainer port cable and simulator software :/
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Aug 1, 2013 02:03
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Golluk posted:In practice though it looks like you tend to roll the plane and pull up to turn. So it might be more intuitive/simpler to make the right thumb control elevator and ailerons? The most common setup in North America is called mode 2 which is left stick up down is throttle. Left stick left right is rudder. Right stick up down is pitch and right stick left right is roll.
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Aug 1, 2013 02:49
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How do you do the nose-in funnel turns as seen here around the 0:21 mark? What is that maneuver actually called? http://vimeo.com/46329367
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Aug 1, 2013 16:58
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I believe the CCPM heli guys call it a "tornado" but really it's just an aileron (roll) turn. If a heli isn't pitched into the turn it won't stop moving in the direction it's headed.
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Aug 1, 2013 17:15
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I love my MQX. I have owned a bunch of planes before, including classics like (multiple) slow sticks and the UM Beast and I dont think I've ever had as much fun flying as I have with my MQX. I was outside trying to get the hang of the tornado, when I had an unintended landing. Sent the canopy flying, it was a rough one. Split the right rear boom down the middle, the long way. Tossed it back up in the air and kept flying because, gently caress it, I only have so long for lunch. Still flew fine, little squirrely with the flexy boom, but it was mostly fine. I have a spare boom that I'll put in tonight, plus the mailman came bearing gifts including 6 feet of MQX-sized hollow carbon fiber square tube, so I can make my own booms now!!! Man the MQX rocks.
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Aug 1, 2013 20:41
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I purchased a dtf uhf tX, and I'm waiting for him to get more rXs in stock. I'm not 100% that I want a 4 channel rX w/ ppm though, as I've never used it. I'm not sure if my Crius multiwii supports it, but I'm willing to upgrade if I have to. I was thinking of just getting a flytron rX, but those are also not in stock.
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Aug 1, 2013 22:34
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I'm finally going to just give in and get back into this after taking my Radian sailplane out for an hour today. So that means time to order some new toys because...well why not. edit: figured it out. 9xr, module, battery and blade nano QX ordered. Will be keeping my eyes open for a cheap Align 250 as well I think. edit 2: Otherwise drat this is tempting - http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t742560p1/ Just add batteries (think I have some that would work) and sell the radio. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Aug 2, 2013 |
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Aug 2, 2013 01:01
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I loving give up for a while, I suck at R/C planes. The minicub is in pieces until I can get a replacement receiver board. The Critical Mass is in pieces waiting for a replacement motor to arrive. The Stinger 64 is in one piece but the new body has already had the nose ripped off once. I took the radjet 420 in nose first full throttle yesterday, likely not repairable. And something just loving broke on the Bixler 2 and spiraled in from 300 feet right on top of a school, right after I got a brand new carbon spar and two 45-90c batteries to run in parallel. Hopefully it doesn't catch on fire! 
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Aug 2, 2013 01:26
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devmd01 posted:I loving give up for a while, I suck at R/C planes. Hi Five crashing bixlers buddy! I tried mine out today for all of 3 rather short flights. All three went nice and straight, roll pretty much in control. Trouble was I couldn't really get it to turn, and didn't want it to get to far away so I'd bring it down. The third time not gently enough. It re-snapped the wing spar, but this time also tore away part of the wing that was screwed in, and split up the other half of the wing where it goes into the body. So what glue should I be using to fix this? At least its near the body so the balance shouldn't be effected.
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Aug 2, 2013 03:39
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Golluk posted:So what glue should I be using to fix this? At least its near the body so the balance shouldn't be effected. A friend of mine just got into RC planes and I suggested he get a Bixler (SkySurfer, but whatever). His fiberglass spar broke as well while making a high-g turn. Thankfully I had a CF rod on hand and it's fine now. Hot-melt glue & fibre reinforced tape works pretty darn well. Of course it'll add weight and you'll probably need to re-balance for CG. devmd01 posted:Critical Mass,Stinger 64, radjet 420 I have no idea how long you've been flying nor do I want to suggest you're a horrible pilot, but those look like pretty tricky planes to fly if you don't have a lot of experience. Perhaps stick to something like the Bixler for a little longer? devmd01 posted:I loving give up. Don't do that. Have you guys ever considered using a flight sim? Not one of the stupid RC flight training sims (they're all horrible) but an actual flight sim like MS Flight Simulator or IL-2? I learned how to fly RC by using IL-2's stationary ground camera and a USB PlayStation2 style controller. It's really loving hard, but at least the planes fly like they should... not like spaceships in the RC flight sims. It really teaches you the importance of speed management and what happens when you try and do stupid things.
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Aug 2, 2013 13:12
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Flying them isn't the problem; I have correct CG, throws, D/R and expo set so they're not out of control when flying normally. The problem is when I flip the D/R and Expo over to 100% up in the air and start loving around trying to do more advanced acrobatic maneuvers. I'm not gonna sell my stuff off, but I am gonna take a break for a bit - i'm tired of throwing money at this right now and the frustration that comes with it.
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Aug 2, 2013 16:28
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Ah, understood.
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Aug 2, 2013 16:51
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devmd01 posted:i'm tired of throwing money at this right now Start making dollar-tree foam-board planes from scratch 
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Aug 2, 2013 16:56
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4th of July vid, figured it was appropriate for this thread. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0YfTjrH0Co&hd=1
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Aug 2, 2013 20:53
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CrazyLittle posted:Start making dollar-tree foam-board planes from scratch A buddy of mine built the baby blender. That thing is a really fun plane to fly. He also crashed it into a light pole when coming into land  About $2 in materials damage. Not counting rebuild time.
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Aug 2, 2013 21:11
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CrazyLittle posted:Start making dollar-tree foam-board planes from scratch That or SPAD's with aluminum u-channel, plastic cutting board and coroplast. They are usually horribly ugly but were a blast to fly because worst case I had spare "wing/body/engine mounts" in the car that could be swapped in 10 minutes. The infamous pizza box flyer is really an amazing thing to fly once you get over what you're flying...hovers, flat-spins, body length loops, etc. I think I may have to make one for one of these spare .15 engines.
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Aug 2, 2013 21:20
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So half a year ago or something I got myself my first RC helicopter. I've pretty much always wanted one but I never did. Then when my sisters started having babies and I had to be in toy stores sometimes I realized that I could just buy one (novel concept I know) and so I did. The selection wasn't too great and for some reason I didn't want to buy online so I got a Silverlit Aero Commander. In blue! It's only 3 channels and I found it rather hard to control. I don't have a lot of space indoors and it's a bit light for outdoors so I pretty much crash it constantly. But it's sturdy enough and it still works. I guess what annoys me the most is no external batteries and it takes really long to recharge. Then a week ago I had the itch to get something better so I got: Blade MCX2 Blade Nano QX Spektrum DX7s I know the Spektrum is complete and utter overkill, but so what. First impressions: I knew they would be light, but I didn't expect the plastic canopy/covers so be so thin and, well, flimsy. But I guess their only function is to be light and protect the insides when they crash so they'll work perfectly fine for that. And the Nano QX has an extra canopy included so there's that. As for the Spektrum: yeah, overkill...  It's a good thing I have a natural feeling for buttons and switches because the menu system can be a bit weird. I was able to bind the Nano, and copy settings for it from some guy on YouTube. Then I promptly lost the settings again because I bound the MCX2 on the same program. Oops. Anyway, I entered settings for the MCX2 from the same YouTube dude and later I'll enter the Nano settings again. On a different program this time.Anywho, flying. I started with the Nano because its battery was charged first. (I've since discovered that they both use the same battery. Kinda weird, because the MCX2 was supposed to have a 120mAh battery. A 150mAh was delivered instead, same as the Nano. Works out fine for me because I was planning to use 150mAh batteries anyway. I ordered 4 extra.) Quadcopters obviously control differently than normal helis. They yaw a lot slower for one. (I don't have a clue how that physically works actually, should look that up.) I'm able to fly it in my living room, something that I wouldn't dream of doing with the Silverlit, with all the fragile stuff in here. A bit of work trimming it and then it controls rather well. Pretty much the same story for the MCX2. Trim a bit, fly in my living room. Spinning it around is fun :-) Again something that I have never done with the Silverlit, I suspect it would've crashed into a wall basically instantly. I already want a bigger one
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Aug 3, 2013 11:59
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uXs posted:Quadcopters obviously control differently than normal helis. They yaw a lot slower for one. (I don't have a clue how that physically works actually, should look that up.) I'm able to fly it in my living room, something that I wouldn't dream of doing with the Silverlit, with all the fragile stuff in here. A bit of work trimming it and then it controls rather well. I don't have one yet, nano QX is on the way but I would assume yaw and pitch on these is done by just increasing rpm on one side (say left) while decreasing on the other (right), this drops the right side to turn into a corner. Same for forwards/backwards. I spent way too much time on rcgroups, rcuniverse, helifreak and runryder yesterday reading and browsing for sale ads. As a side effect I have a BNF Align 250 and a Mini Titan E325 (needs receiver) that should be here next week. I'll look them over, full maintenance then clean/lube and they should be ready to go. Best part is they come with lots of spares (250 includes a full spare heli with motor/esc) and they were very cheap. Me being sick and stuck on the couch or in bed is not good for my wallet.
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Aug 3, 2013 14:13
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I looked it up and quad rotors rotate in opposite ways. So left front and right back rotate one direction, and the 2 others in the other. Yaw is done by decreasing rotation in 2 rotors that spin the same way, which makes it yaw.
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Aug 3, 2013 14:33
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Oh yaw I was thinking pitch and roll. Going to be a long day.
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Aug 3, 2013 15:15
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So, question: in the mcx2 box there was a black foam rubber L-shaped thing, 7.5 cm long. Any ideas what it might be? There was a special place for it in the box even so it must be something that has some use?
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Aug 3, 2013 18:35
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uXs posted:I looked it up and quad rotors rotate in opposite ways. So left front and right back rotate one direction, and the 2 others in the other. Yaw is done by decreasing rotation in 2 rotors that spin the same way, which makes it yaw. Yep, tricopters or quad-vtail copters will yaw faster because they have a motor tilted into the direction yaw.
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Aug 3, 2013 19:22
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I was tuning Arducopter 3.01 today, and was hovering three feet up at 25% throttle when I switched to loiter mode. The quad pivoted vertically 30 degrees and took off at full throttle, getting 40 feet up before I could switch back to stabilize mode, and it plummeted upside down into a driveway. Shockingly I only snapped two carbon fiber props, bent all the prop adapters, two motor shafts, and had a motor vanish entirely. One of the motor shafts was pushed through partially to the other side of the casing. What's the best way to tap it back into position? If I can fix this I have enough spare parts to get it back into the air. Although that motor is making an odd sound, and I hope its the shaft being displaced and not a bad bearing.
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Aug 4, 2013 06:41
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Symbolized posted:I was tuning Arducopter 3.01 today, and was hovering three feet up at 25% throttle when I switched to loiter mode. The quad pivoted vertically 30 degrees and took off at full throttle, getting 40 feet up before I could switch back to stabilize mode, and it plummeted upside down into a driveway. Shockingly I only snapped two carbon fiber props, bent all the prop adapters, two motor shafts, and had a motor vanish entirely. One of the motor shafts was pushed through partially to the other side of the casing. What's the best way to tap it back into position? If I can fix this I have enough spare parts to get it back into the air. Although that motor is making an odd sound, and I hope its the shaft being displaced and not a bad bearing. I can't help you with your motor problem but what do you think caused your loiter glitch? I haven't got loiter tuned in in 3.0.1 but for me it is slowly losing its position especially when yawing which makes me think its a compass issue. I'd guess a crazy jump like that is probably some sort of gps issue.
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Aug 5, 2013 05:00
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Symbolized posted:I was tuning Arducopter 3.01 today, and was hovering three feet up at 25% throttle when I switched to loiter mode. The quad pivoted vertically 30 degrees and took off at full throttle, getting 40 feet up before I could switch back to stabilize mode, and it plummeted upside down into a driveway. Shockingly I only snapped two carbon fiber props, bent all the prop adapters, two motor shafts, and had a motor vanish entirely. One of the motor shafts was pushed through partially to the other side of the casing. What's the best way to tap it back into position? If I can fix this I have enough spare parts to get it back into the air. Although that motor is making an odd sound, and I hope its the shaft being displaced and not a bad bearing. Good to know the Arducopter software is still poo poo. For the shafts, I ended up getting a super-cheap arbor press from Harbor Freight for adjusting and replacing motor shafts. Trying to tap them back in can be tricky--sometimes the tolerances are weird, and you're more likely to damage a bearing then get the shaft back in right. I eventually got a bunch of cheap versions of the same motor I had been using from China (really, same exact thing, it seemed), along with spare shafts, sets of bearings, and different adapter types. I have a box of sorta-broken motors that I keep around so that when I need to fix one, I can steal the bearings from one, and the rotor from another. Also make sure to tighten the set screw for the shaft afterwords, possibly with loctite as well.
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Aug 5, 2013 05:10
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mashed_penguin posted:I can't help you with your motor problem but what do you think caused your loiter glitch? I haven't got loiter tuned in in 3.0.1 but for me it is slowly losing its position especially when yawing which makes me think its a compass issue. I'd guess a crazy jump like that is probably some sort of gps issue. I had basically the same thing happen last year on an earlier version of AC. It's really, really bad software, by any metric.
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Aug 5, 2013 05:12
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Slanderer posted:I had basically the same thing happen last year on an earlier version of AC. It's really, really bad software, by any metric. Exactly the same thing happened (happens?) to me with my AC2.9. I haven't gone into loiter since though that's more because the crappy plastic collets on my turnigy motors keep letting the prop nut undo.
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Aug 5, 2013 06:06
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| # ? May 11, 2024 11:35 |
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I fixed the motor shafts with a hammer and a dremel. I cut them to be flush with the motor casing, and am using prop adapters that screw right onto the case now. Two of them sound raspy so the bearings are probably shot. I will get an arbor press off ebay and try my hand at replacing the bearings. Any recommendations for bearings? Also reviewed the log for the crash, and it was trying to loiter about 50 feet South of the actual launch where I powered up and armed it. e: I was powering the APM through a BEC connected to the outputs. Now it will only power on if connected to the analog/servo pins. I have the jumper installed to draw power from inputs & outputs, and it seems unbroken. Also the motors will intermittently halt if I power them up too soon after turning on the board. I had the board in the 3dr case when it crashed, so the board was fine outside a few twisted pins from the inputs being yanked out quickly. I'll check for broken solder or traces again tomorrow, but I'm thinking the board might be beyond repair. Muppet Danny Brown fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Aug 5, 2013 |
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Aug 5, 2013 06:51
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