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Hello Saabgoons, I have a question. The rear driver's side window on ~*MY GIRLFRIEND'S*~ 2002 9-3 kept falling down, and wouldn't go up. We can hear the motor still working so we know that's not the problem. We did a bit of digging on Google and saw one possibility was that the roller regulator was busted. This guy right here. Took the door apart, and as it turns out, the regulator roller is still good. What's broken is this piece, but we have no idea what it is:   Anyone know what this piece is and how difficult it is to replace? Fake edit: here's our comedy fix until we can figure this stuff out: 
ryden fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Jul 29, 2013 |
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Jul 28, 2013 22:03
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| # ? May 28, 2024 12:24 |
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That part of your regulator/motor combo that is where your window attaches. I've never seen one break like that, before. The entire assembly looks like part #51 84 890, but this is somewhat build date dependent. Whats your VIN?
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Jul 30, 2013 07:48
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It's not too bad to replace, just a bit tricky to get the cable re-strung. You might have trouble sourcing the part though, so consider replacing the whole unit with a salvage one. This is a repair/upgrade part, but it costs $40  . The video on the page should help you though.
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Aug 3, 2013 08:27
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..not to mention that trying to get Taliaferro parts that you paid for are just about as easy as getting them that you haven't bought yet. I picked up an entire assembly for my last NG900 project for roughly $75, shipped. E: Went looking for a cheapish 4x4 toy to work on. Ended up chatting up the other person looking at cars there, and discovering that 2005 was their 95, and they might be interested in selling it. 
Viggen fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Aug 5, 2013 |
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Aug 5, 2013 15:09
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ryden posted:Fake edit: here's our comedy fix until we can figure this stuff out: That's way better (though more work) than my fix, which was to wedge a rubber spatula in the window to keep it up. I think those things must have been problematic. I remember recently seeing another 9-3 with the same issue. Loved the car though.
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Aug 5, 2013 18:01
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Even the rear doors break, which are cable driven. I posted pages back about mine. I have 06 window regulators in my 07 and the vin to parts number don't match. Looks like it from the factory that way. Also I checked both doors for those wondering.
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Aug 5, 2013 20:59
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Even the rear doors break, which are cable driven. That is a rear door? 
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Aug 6, 2013 19:04
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I saw an old 900, but I was so enamored with the bumper sticker on it (Boston Derby Dames) that I forgot the details. What was the overlap between coupe models and hatchback models?:  That vent on the rear quarter panel seems familiar. I wanna say it didn't have aero headlamps.
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Aug 8, 2013 04:55
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I wish you got a picture of the front, I'd be able to tell better with the front grille. Off the top of my head, I'm just going to throw out that it's a '82 with the ugly US impact bumpers and aforementioned vent. Edit: '82 or newer, it's missing the rearmost window to be a '79. 
Viggen fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Aug 8, 2013 |
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Aug 8, 2013 14:44
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Bear with me here because I'm a complete noob at car repair. I bought a 2000 9-5 Aero (manual) to play around with and I'm busy replacing the front axles in order to pass a Maryland inspection. I've got the new axles on, but the knuckles are off. The car is on jack stands. It's been a couple of weeks since I started the engine, so I decide to turn it over for a few minutes. I start the engine, put it in neutral, and ease off the clutch. To my surprise, I can hear the axles turning. This isn't normal behavior is it? I was under the impression that if the car was in neutral the axles shouldn't be turning.
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Aug 12, 2013 21:19
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Thanks for the info guys. We've decided to just leave it for now. The video Mario posted was helpful, but it seems like getting the whole assembly out of the door is going to be a pain in the rear end.
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Aug 13, 2013 16:50
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ltugo posted:Axles turning in neutral Nevermind, reading on some other forums indicates this behavior is completely normal.
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Aug 14, 2013 14:03
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Oh god help We got t-boned a few weeks ago, destroying the passenger side door; everything was replaced, and after we got it back from the body shop, this started. She took it back to the body shop that did the work, and they told her it was a short in the wiring and that they fixed it... except that the message came back the next day.  The locks all work, so I'm not sure what failure it's reporting. It's an '04 9-3 Linear.My experience is mostly with old Japanese bikes and Ford Rangers, so I'm not used to anything that requires maintenance. 
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Aug 16, 2013 07:26
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Which of your locks doesn't work (check the trunk too)? Use the transponder to lock/unlock them. Then take it back and tell them they didn't finish the job.
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Aug 16, 2013 15:41
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ryden posted:Thanks for the info guys. We've decided to just leave it for now. The video Mario posted was helpful, but it seems like getting the whole assembly out of the door is going to be a pain in the rear end. When re-installing, it helps to have a way of holding the glass partway up. I used a loop of tape going over the top of the door, protecting the finish with a towel. 
Mario fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Aug 17, 2013 |
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Aug 17, 2013 04:17
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Motronic posted:Which of your locks doesn't work (check the trunk too)? Use the transponder to lock/unlock them. Everything works, but I can hear the actuator in the front passenger side door moving several times after the door locks/unlocks, so I'm guessing there's some sensor not registering the state of the lock. Sigh, stupid body shop. 
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Aug 19, 2013 02:04
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Fats posted:Everything works, but I can hear the actuator in the front passenger side door moving several times after the door locks/unlocks, so I'm guessing there's some sensor not registering the state of the lock. Sigh, stupid body shop. That's going to be a little expensive to fix. Contact your insurance company and find a competent shop.
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Aug 20, 2013 00:54
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Fats posted:Oh god help I'm going to guess the passenger door module is bad or at the very least not programmed to get along with the BCM(the door module is actually part of the window switch assembly.) Or the door lock/latch assembly micro switches aren't doing their job. Especially if the door came from a junkyard where it was sitting unattached to the donor car. The micro switches in them like to die even when treated nicely. On my 04 the driver front door lock/latch assembly died slowly and the car would randomly set the alarm off or keep the dome lights on thinking the door was open. A junkyard latch from Goldwingsaab was $85 easy to replace and solved my issues. If you're not comfortable delving into this take it somewhere competent with Saab's and with a working TechII.
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Aug 20, 2013 01:39
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Guy Random posted:If you're not comfortable delving into this take it somewhere competent with Saab's and with a working TechII. It's a botched insurance repair. He needs to be taking it somewhere regardless.
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Aug 20, 2013 01:44
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I made the mistake of mentioning that I wanted to get Euro-style clear courtesy flashers for my 2000 95 that is no longer with us several months ago to a buddy in Sweden. He decided to do the opposite. v  v
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Aug 27, 2013 18:27
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So Saab guys, between a 2000 9-3 2.0 and a 2002 9-5 2.0t automatic which is more likely to require expensive repairs? 9-3 has 175k km and the 9-5 has 214k but comes with a service history, 9-3 is slightly cheaper. Both passed an EU inspection this year, meaning that safety critical parts + suspension, steering, rust etc. should be ok. Are automatics to be avoided in general or are there certain year ranges that were worse than others? Background: I'm an EE with some limited car repair experience, I was able to diagnose and bodge a fuel system leak and a bad distributor cap on a Willis Jeep once, but I've never been a "car person" before. I don't need a car to daily drive but I'd like to most of the time, and I won't have room for a full shop but I have in-door parking. Basically I would like it to work but I won't depend on a car to get to work, so some down-time is acceptable.
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Aug 29, 2013 10:07
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Both the early B205 and B235 have sludging issues. Check the 95 to see if it has had the PCV #6 update in records, and physically examine the 93 for the same (there are pictures to identify this earlier in the thread). This would show that maintenance was being kept through at least 2005. 214k is quite a bit, but if everything has been taken care of, it isn't really all that much. Personally, I'd go with the 95, because it is larger, more comfortable, and I can attest to its passenger compartment being safe. Don't be afraid to ask for a PPI on the car before you commit. You're still spending good money on a 12-14 year old car.
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Aug 29, 2013 16:14
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I'm thinking about putting in an offer for this 9-3. The guy's mechanic (Saab-oriented indy) says it'll need new front rotors and a handbrake adjusted for the safety cert. I've exchanged a few emails and apparently it had an issue with the oil pressure sensor (was replaced) about 5 years ago. This was when the guy learned about sludging and he switched to synthetic from then on. He doesn't know whether it has PCV6 or not. How much of a gamble is it for the engine being sludged? Winters get drat cold here in Ottawa. I'm planning to offer around $1000 as is.
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Aug 29, 2013 22:14
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I'm pretty sure the '99 9-3 hatch 2.0t was a B204 (not a sludgemonster). Get a VIN or a picture of the engine and we can tell you more.
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Aug 29, 2013 23:28
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I've found a home! I'm a happy owner of an '06 93 2.0T automatic and I've loved the car for the year that I've had it. obligatory porn:  The previous owner wasn't the kindest person to it and it has a few bumps and bangs along the body and the installation of a  sound system (two 10" subs and two amps in the trunk). Electric work is questionable and I'm dreading how much it will cost over here to straighten the wiring out so that my controls function normally.Anyway the car itself has been great so far, fast and smooth. It's like flying on the Autobahn and down the country roads. With all that said I do have a few concerns about restless idling and a difficult to describe problem where I feel like it's just not getting the power it needs when going up hills. I'm not a car person by any stretch so I don't know if it's just normal to require a little bit more "oomph" on a grade but I feel like something just isn't right. I've heard new ignition coils may possibly remedy the situation but I just wanted to check to see if maybe I'm being paranoid or not. Is it normal for a car's RPM's to just jump to 5K and not switch gears during rapid acceleration as well? When trying to pass some cars I want that instant pull which it feels like the car is capable of but the RPM's jump and it feels like it wont shift into the next gear. Pushed it hard one time before noticing and the engine light was on for a week before going away? I've found that lightly releasing the gas allows something to register with the transmition and the RPM's drop back to around the ~3K range.
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Aug 30, 2013 16:05
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West SAAB Story posted:I'm pretty sure the '99 9-3 hatch 2.0t was a B204 (not a sludgemonster). Get a VIN or a picture of the engine and we can tell you more. Ahh, this seems to be correct. That's a relief. Now I am waiting to see whether or not the seller's offended by my low-ball offer.
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Aug 30, 2013 18:41
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That metal dude posted:Is it normal for a car's RPM's to just jump to 5K and not switch gears during rapid acceleration as well? When trying to pass some cars I want that instant pull which it feels like the car is capable of but the RPM's jump and it feels like it wont shift into the next gear. Pushed it hard one time before noticing and the engine light was on for a week before going away? I've found that lightly releasing the gas allows something to register with the transmition and the RPM's drop back to around the ~3K range. Have you tried removing the battery for a few hours so it can 'retrain' to your driving habits? Have you tried to use the flappypaddles to manually coax it to shift? I'd be more worried at where your turbo gauge is, than the engines' oomph. When you push it, and the engine seems willing, but the turbo gauge won't get over the bare minimum of boost, you may have a rather nasty leak. You should get a cheap ODBII reader so you can see what code it was setting. E: Wish I knew someone in Phoenix to put me up for a few Craigslist posted:2006 Saab 93 Aero. 2.8L v6 (blue) engine for sale. I bought this car and as of right now I have $3300 in it. The oil pan was broken and the engine is stuck( I did not know at that time). I am willing to let it go for the same price. On top of that I have another Saab 93 Aero 2006 that I used prevously for parts. Engine has about 60000 miles. I am willing to throw the second car in the same deal. This is an amazing deal. Parts on blue Saab alone is more than $3300. I do not have the space to keep them. Viggen fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Aug 30, 2013 |
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Aug 30, 2013 19:44
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West SAAB Story posted:Have you tried removing the battery for a few hours so it can 'retrain' to your driving habits? Have you tried to use the flappypaddles to manually coax it to shift? I'd be more worried at where your turbo gauge is, than the engines' oomph. When you push it, and the engine seems willing, but the turbo gauge won't get over the bare minimum of boost, you may have a rather nasty leak. You should get a cheap ODBII reader so you can see what code it was setting. I'll try the battery thing, I wasn't aware it was something to do with these cars. The boost functions normally as far as I can tell but I'll keep a closer eye on it the next time I hit the street. What are these "flappypaddles" you refer to?
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Aug 30, 2013 20:38
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That metal dude posted:I'll try the battery thing, I wasn't aware it was something to do with these cars. The boost functions normally as far as I can tell but I'll keep a closer eye on it the next time I hit the street. Your setup isn't like this?  Left side one shifts down, the right side one shifts up.. As an aside, this is the strangest drat saab I've ever seen.. Viggen fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Aug 30, 2013 |
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Aug 30, 2013 20:44
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I think only the aeros got the paddles.
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Aug 31, 2013 01:14
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Guy Random posted:I'm going to guess the passenger door module is bad or at the very least not programmed to get along with the BCM(the door module is actually part of the window switch assembly.) Or the door lock/latch assembly micro switches aren't doing their job. Especially if the door came from a junkyard where it was sitting unattached to the donor car. The micro switches in them like to die even when treated nicely. On my 04 the driver front door lock/latch assembly died slowly and the car would randomly set the alarm off or keep the dome lights on thinking the door was open. A junkyard latch from Goldwingsaab was $85 easy to replace and solved my issues. If you're not comfortable delving into this take it somewhere competent with Saab's and with a working TechII. Two weeks and two repair shops later, the local independent Euro shop says that it's the door module, and it needs to be replaced. Unfortunately, neither they nor the single Saab place in Oregon can source a new one (and they say used ones can't be reprogrammed... that wasn't what I had read, but since it's an insurance repair, it's out of my hands). Guess we'll be living with the error message for a while. quote:I think only the aeros got the paddles. The Linear has the "manual" controls on a side gate off of Drive, at least on ours. Not quite as convenient as flappy paddles.
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Aug 31, 2013 01:31
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I'm guessing this has already shown up in the thread, but just in case: http://www.zatzy.com/projekt/374743-mrspringer-saab-9-3-srt10-megapower.html Any thoughts on regular 9-3 (Sportcombi) reliability/cost of ownership?
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Aug 31, 2013 02:59
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West SAAB Story posted:Your setup isn't like this? No mine doesn't have those style shifters.
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Sep 1, 2013 11:16
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astropika posted:I think only the aeros got the paddles. He said he had an Aero. That metal dude posted:No mine doesn't have those style shifters. Huh. I didn't know there were options beyond the manual and single slushbox? Plug your VIN into SAABVIN, I'd be interested to see what it reports for your transmission.
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Sep 1, 2013 23:22
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That metal dude posted:Is it normal for a car's RPM's to just jump to 5K and not switch gears during rapid acceleration as well? When trying to pass some cars I want that instant pull which it feels like the car is capable of but the RPM's jump and it feels like it wont shift into the next gear. Pushed it hard one time before noticing and the engine light was on for a week before going away? I've found that lightly releasing the gas allows something to register with the transmition and the RPM's drop back to around the ~3K range. Most automatic cars have a detent at the bottom of the gas pedal's travel that makes the transmission downshift.
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Sep 2, 2013 02:00
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West SAAB Story posted:He said he had an Aero. I don't have an Aero, it's just a regular 9-3 2.0T atomicthumbs posted:Most automatic cars have a detent at the bottom of the gas pedal's travel that makes the transmission downshift. This is helpful, thanks. I've also read some similar symptoms others are having with their cars and they recommend changing the ignition coils so that's probably next on my to-do list. The driving conditions here in Germany are a little more demanding than the average roads but this car is so smooth even over 120mph.
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Sep 4, 2013 14:32
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That metal dude posted:I don't have an Aero, it's just a regular 9-3 2.0T Rereading your initial post, I'm not sure why I had it stuck in my head that you had an Aero. v v
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Sep 4, 2013 15:49
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So fix for the month is replacing a bad wheel bearing. So far in trying to remove the wheel bearing I've managed to kill 2 pullers and a 20 ton press and the bearing is still in the spindle. Time to take it to a shop because, gently caress it, it's obvious I'm not going to get the job done because something with the bearing has severely went wrong. edit: also the v v above really worked out preemptively.
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Sep 6, 2013 20:53
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I just changed my front bearings and I didn't even try to remove them myself. I just removed the whole assembly and took it to a mechanic who agreed to pop the old ones out and the new ones in with a hydraulic press. Only charged me an hour of labor.
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Sep 6, 2013 21:30
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Where do you guys get new parts for your SAABs? For my VW I usually just buy mid-range aftermarket parts from rockauto.com. Is that OK for SAABs too or would you recommend getting genuine components? I know there's gonna be quality/price trade-off, but the "Genuine SAAB" stuff I'm seeing generally at least twice as much as aftermarket. edit: this would be for an OG9-3 fyo fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Sep 6, 2013 |
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Sep 6, 2013 22:37
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