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~Coxy posted:Better to check as soon as you get it and can return it without hassle. It's not like Apple is going to let you return it just based on having display type XYZ. That would be a recall. So if you don't even have an issue to show them, no need to bother. Plus all reasonable customers get AppleCare, so time isn't pressing with returning these machines. 
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Aug 6, 2013 07:25
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There's a 14 day no questions asked return period which would be best to take advantage of. Outside of that window you're going to have the convince the genius to let you exchange it. Plenty of people have had issues doing so, even when they can clearly demo the issue in-store.
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Aug 6, 2013 07:38
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Well they certainly exchanged my display when I had that issue. It's not something to exchange the whole machine over.
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Aug 6, 2013 08:08
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Sorry I didn't get AppleCare as I can't afford it, it doesn't cover accidents, and I generally can't stand the hand-us-money runaround that Apple service gives you anyway. I don't really want to get into the whole screen retention lawsuit thing, I just would like to check if I have a Samsung screen if possible. (if you must know, I dropped my macbook, got it replaced at a shop because it was $400 + shipping versus $950+ other places quoted me, and they claimed they replace screens with Samsung ones and I just wanted to check. Apple is basically out of the question here since it was a drop)SeaborneClink posted:
yep, already tried that one. @.`0 6 Color LCD.
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Aug 6, 2013 08:24
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e:fb by like 5 hours!
kuskus fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Aug 6, 2013 |
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Aug 6, 2013 13:13
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What is this, MacRumors where people sit at the Apple store unboxing machines until they find one with the SSD/screen combination they want?
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Aug 6, 2013 13:29
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If one is objectively worse than another then why wouldn't you? Servers them right for charging premium prices but using wildly different levels of quality parts from their suppliers.
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Aug 6, 2013 14:58
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A lot of those old 250GB drives will actually max out at 60-20MBs depending on which end of the disk you are reading from. And the smaller 120GB/80GB drives will be even slower, like 45-15MBs
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Aug 6, 2013 15:05
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Space Gopher posted:There should be effectively zero lag on a Thunderbolt-HDMI conversion. Forget that, you can get a Dell 27 inch with the same panel too for about half the price of the cinema display. And it has tons of inputs and features.
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Aug 6, 2013 15:44
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Electric Bugaloo posted:Go naked and keep it in a sleeve, like Bob Morales said. Excellent, many thanks to both you and Bob Morales. I read that those things could theoretically scratch up the computer if dust / dirt got between the case and the computer. Any recommneded sleeves? I read Colcossacs are nice but they don't fit right apparently. I'd like some modern that looks good and offers good protection (ideally without zippers that can scratch the computer, unless there is protection for that).
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Aug 6, 2013 16:27
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It's really personal preference and reading reviews on sites like Amazon for anything you might miss. I have a Speck sleeve that's made out a stretchy material. Works great but there's nowhere to carry anything with it like USB drives, a mouse, power cord, pens... Then I also have an STM Jacket which is a little thicker and has pockets for more stuff, as well as a removable shoulder strap. I used to have an Incase sleeve that was made out of a ballistic nylon type material, I'm not a huge fan of neoprene. It had a fur-type lining which was pretty nice. I've never had issues with zipper damage. I've also seen some cases from Booq and Hard Candy that interest me. Generally the more protective of a case, the bulkier it will end up being, which can be a turn off if you have an Air. I'd go Mac-specific if you can, generic small cases from companies like CaseLogic are usually pretty low-end. There are a lot of sleeves out there that look like leather wallets, envelopes, or books if that's your type of thing. Depending on what they're made out of they can cost over a hundred dollars, but if that's the look you are going for, you probably don't care.
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Aug 6, 2013 16:38
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~Coxy posted:If one is objectively worse than another then why wouldn't you? At least with the Airs, people would never notice if they hadn't read about it online. Have you been to their site, it's the weirdest bunch of OCD people you'll ever meet.
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Aug 6, 2013 16:39
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Bob Morales posted:At least with the Airs, people would never notice if they hadn't read about it online. Have you been to their site, it's the weirdest bunch of OCD people you'll ever meet.
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Aug 6, 2013 17:20
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Bob Morales posted:What is this, MacRumors where people sit at the Apple store unboxing machines until they find one with the SSD/screen combination they want? The image retention thing on the retina LG panels does look pretty terrible. I could see it getting annoying enough to swap for a new display.
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Aug 6, 2013 18:29
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After 2 years of dealing with a terrible issue with my NVidia card in my 2010 Mid-Year 15" MBP, and Apple refusing to say there was an issue, they finally put out a statement that everyone can get a repair. Getting a new MLB! Woohoo
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Aug 6, 2013 19:19
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bows1 posted:After 2 years of dealing with a terrible issue with my NVidia card in my 2010 Mid-Year 15" MBP, and Apple refusing to say there was an issue, they finally put out a statement that everyone can get a repair. Do you have the specific article or KB number handy for that?
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Aug 6, 2013 19:24
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Apple has had a repair extension program for that since at least early 2012, probably even late 2011 or before.
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Aug 6, 2013 19:33
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NerdsMcGee posted:Do you have the specific article or KB number handy for that? http://support.apple.com/kb/TS4088
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Aug 7, 2013 04:37
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Are there any other differences between the July 2011 mac mini with i5 and AMD Radeon HD 6630M and the current model other than the integrated graphics and lack of USB3? Which mini is likely to perform better with Mavericks? Will the older one even be compatible?
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Aug 8, 2013 14:32
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Quick question, what's the best PC competitor for the iMac?
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Aug 8, 2013 14:50
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Danger Man posted:Quick question, what's the best PC competitor for the iMac? Weird question to ask, but here is a Verge article describing the competition. In my experience as an on-site tech with these other AIO solutions, they are all a big pain in the rear end to repair and lovely machines in general. People do seem to love them and a client recently ordered $30,000 worth of HP AIOs to set up for their entire office after having 2 of their tester machines fail within a few months. I wouldn't exactly recommend any AIO, but that's more from personal experience.
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Aug 8, 2013 15:00
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Danger Man posted:Quick question, what's the best PC competitor for the iMac? Depending on the iMac in question, probably a Dell or the Vizios maybe: http://www.vizio.com/all-in-one/overview That Verge article is getting a bit long in the tooth. Maneki Neko fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Aug 8, 2013 |
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Aug 8, 2013 17:51
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I posted a little while back about the faulty USB ports on my MBP, which ended with me taking the machine in for repair and having Apple replace the logic board. I just got my machine back today and have found that I'm unable to log into OS X with the password I've been using for years. Fortunately I set up a guest account prior to sending it away which I'm using now. I'm guessing this is an NVRAM thing and since I have a new logic board... What's the best / most hassle free way to proceed here?
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Aug 8, 2013 19:35
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I just want to pimp iFixit's customer service. My late 2012 iMac adhesive strips arrived creased, like they were packed in a hurry. They sent me new ones without a hitch. Good people.
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Aug 8, 2013 19:38
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Cyne posted:I posted a little while back about the faulty USB ports on my MBP, which ended with me taking the machine in for repair and having Apple replace the logic board. I just got my machine back today and have found that I'm unable to log into OS X with the password I've been using for years. Fortunately I set up a guest account prior to sending it away which I'm using now. I'm guessing this is an NVRAM thing and since I have a new logic board... http://kashiv.com/2012/04/16/reset-root-password-using-single-user-boot-in-osx-lion/
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Aug 8, 2013 21:10
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Neurophonic posted:http://kashiv.com/2012/04/16/reset-root-password-using-single-user-boot-in-osx-lion/ Beautiful, got everything sorted out just fine. Thanks!
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Aug 8, 2013 21:40
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KingEup posted:Are there any other differences between the July 2011 mac mini with i5 and AMD Radeon HD 6630M and the current model other than the integrated graphics and lack of USB3? If you can wait and afford a new one, the Haswell models could be nice because the faster integrated graphics...and hopefully lower heat to keep the fan speed down better, granted Mavericks should help there too for all models. I have the 2011 w/Radeon and the fan noise is my main peeve, like some random process decides to spike for a few seconds and the fan ramps up for a bit in response. The 2012s might have the asymmetric fan blade design which reduces noise, but I haven't seen confirmation on that one way or another.
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Aug 8, 2013 21:44
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Cyne posted:I just got my machine back today and have found that I'm unable to log into OS X with the password I've been using for years. Fortunately I set up a guest account prior to sending it away which I'm using now. I'm guessing this is an NVRAM thing and since I have a new logic board... There is a password reset feature in the bootable OS X install disc or recovery partition. http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1274 It's not a nvram thing, the password (or more precisely a hashed version of it) is stored on disk. The repair tech probably did a password reset in order to be able to log in. e:fb BobHoward fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Aug 8, 2013 |
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Aug 8, 2013 22:31
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BobHoward posted:It's not a nvram thing, the password (or more precisely a hashed version of it) is stored on disk. The repair tech probably did a password reset in order to be able to log in.  Yeah, I don't know why I thought that, OS X is fundamentally Unix after all. In any case, problem solved, thanks again guys. 
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Aug 9, 2013 02:06
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Danger Man posted:Quick question, what's the best PC competitor for the iMac? There's nothing I like in the exact same form factor, but you could argue that any PC regardless of form factor is still a competitor for an iMac. Honestly I don't see the difference myself day-to-day as my PC is on the floor, totally invisible. If you really want a flexible, almost all-in-one solution I'd suggest going for a nice laptop and just buying a decent Dell monitor, with a built in USB hub. That way you have a laptop, and can plug in 2 cables and get a desktop form factor.
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Aug 9, 2013 10:12
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Anandtech has posted their 11" MacBook Air review (2013) http://www.anandtech.com/show/7180/apple-macbook-air-11-2013-review
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Aug 9, 2013 13:51
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So uh, is there a recommended way to re-attach a transistor to a Mac Mini logic board?
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Aug 9, 2013 19:42
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tehschulman posted:So uh, is there a recommended way to re-attach a transistor to a Mac Mini logic board? With a soldering iron. However, I regret to inform you that if you detached it without the use of a soldering iron you have probably damaged the component, the pads and traces it was soldered to, or both. Can you take a picture with a camera that has a decent macro mode?
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Aug 9, 2013 20:51
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Quine Connoisseur posted:Did you ever check Activity Monitor while this is happening? yes of course. I've got a ticket in with Apple support and they are baffled. I knew I was in for a bad ride when they started asking about the warranty status
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Aug 9, 2013 22:06
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BobHoward posted:With a soldering iron. However, I regret to inform you that if you detached it without the use of a soldering iron you have probably damaged the component, the pads and traces it was soldered to, or both. Here's what it looks like:   Now, here's the weird part. I ASSUME this is where the resistor (I think it's a resistor) came from. I also assume this is the orientation of the component based on how the solder lines up. I've looked very hard at both sides of the board and this is the only spot where it's very obvious something came loose. Looking at a big picture of the A1347 board (my Mini is a July 2011) however, it looks like there is NOT supposed to be a component in this position (I've highlighted the spot in teal):  Backstory: I was installing a dual hard drive kit this morning when it happened. I think the component got dislodged when I removed the logic board tray from the case. I didn't feel any resistance or hear anything break, but I noticed the resistor was sitting on my workspace just before reassembling the Mini. I have solder experience and some brand new fine tip solder heads. Some advice I read mentioned using a heat gun to reapply the component but I don't have access to one of those. EDIT: Upon closer inspection, the photo of the whole board doesn't look like the correct model for my mac (no battery at the top, it sits more in the middle of things. It definitely looks like my logic board in the A1347 though. Dotcom Jillionaire fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Aug 9, 2013 |
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Aug 9, 2013 22:25
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Just got my Air in from B&H, they threw in a card for a year of "LoJack for Laptops." My instinct is that it's hot garbage to be throw away but with all the commuting/traveling I'll be doing with it some theft protection could be nice. Doesn't Apple already do some of this remote locate/wipe stuff? I guess it depends on how lovely the software is and how difficult it'd be to cancel it after the year. Thoughts?
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Aug 9, 2013 22:39
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tehschulman posted:Here's what it looks like: You ripped the pads off the board. It's toast.
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Aug 9, 2013 22:46
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But on the plus side, if you solder it well you've got nothing to lose, really. What does the board do without that piece?
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Aug 9, 2013 23:57
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Sonic Dude posted:But on the plus side, if you solder it well you've got nothing to lose, really. Explode?  Yeah this is my thinking basically. I'm pretty sure opening the case voided the warranty so I might as well give it a go at this point. I think I will prep the pads with a small dab of solder and then try to carefully set the component back in place. I am pretty confident about the orientation of the component (I have a 50/50 shot!) so I will post my results once I do the surgery. I've also read some posts about people turning their Minis on with a transistor or cap missing, and in some cases, the computer turned on and functioned somewhat normally. I don't suggest doing this personally, but I'll give it a go if worst comes to worst.
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Aug 10, 2013 00:06
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tehschulman posted:I've also read some posts about people turning their Minis on with a transistor or cap missing, and in some cases, the computer turned on and functioned somewhat normally. I don't suggest doing this personally, but I'll give it a go if worst comes to worst. A long time ago we used to play a game where we broke the electrolytic caps off a computer (off random places/cards) until it quit working. You could break quite a few off before it would start acting up.
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Aug 10, 2013 00:19
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