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socketwrencher posted:Thanks Grover. Makes sense as the cost of the additional concrete seems relatively minor given that you're already paying for the grading/forms/pump truck etc.
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Aug 4, 2013 02:03
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I appreciate the feedback.
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Aug 4, 2013 02:37
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Got a sloped backyard that I'm trying to de-weed. It's been weed-whacked a few times over the past months and the weather's been warm/dry so it's not growing much at the moment, but it looks bad and as soon as it rains again it'll "bloom" like crazy. Read that covering it with old carpet will eradicate them but then talked with a neighbor who tried that and ended up with weeds growing into the carpet and the whole thing being a disaster to remove and dispose. Also read that black plastic sheeting works- just cover the weeds, weight down with rocks, and in a few weeks the weeds will be gone. Anyone ever tried this? Any feedback would be appreciated- thanks.
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Aug 4, 2013 16:51
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socketwrencher posted:Got a sloped backyard that I'm trying to de-weed. It's been weed-whacked a few times over the past months and the weather's been warm/dry so it's not growing much at the moment, but it looks bad and as soon as it rains again it'll "bloom" like crazy. The plastic sheet method is known as solarization. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74145.html I've never done it before but I've heard of it. 
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Aug 4, 2013 17:01
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Landscape cloth works well too. You can put gravel or mulch overtop to make it look nice. Another option is to put down cardboard or newsprint to smother whatever it goes over. Wet down the cardboard/paper to get the process started and cover with dirt if you don't want it looking lovely. The paper will decompose and become new earth so you'll get weeds again but if you stay on top of it from that 'reboot' it's not too bad. I'm planning on using this method to turn some of my lawn into larger garden plots. Less lawn = less mowing, watering, etc.
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Aug 4, 2013 17:10
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pseudonordic posted:The plastic sheet method is known as solarization. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74145.html Great article- thanks. They recommend clear sheeting except in cooler, less sunny climes, where black may work better as weeds won't get sunlight.
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Aug 4, 2013 17:25
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priznat posted:Landscape cloth works well too. You can put gravel or mulch overtop to make it look nice. Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to check out both landscape cloth and plastic sheeting and probably go that way. The cardboard/newspaper option would be cheaper upfront but may entail more work... and since I can barely keep up with what's going on now, a "set it and forget it" method may work better.
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Aug 4, 2013 17:29
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socketwrencher posted:Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to check out both landscape cloth and plastic sheeting and probably go that way. The cardboard/newspaper option would be cheaper upfront but may entail more work... and since I can barely keep up with what's going on now, a "set it and forget it" method may work better. The great thing about cardboard/newspaper is that you can till it in once the weeds are baked down and have free mulch. Plastic, not so much.
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Aug 4, 2013 17:32
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Yah personally I'm not big on putting plastic into the soil because if it is left and a layer of soil forms on top it will be a pain to remove. Landscape cloth holds together pretty well and can be pulled out easier than the plastic, and it will let water through so it might be ok to just leave in down the road. Plastic you'll get mildew issues because of the water just sitting (although not so much on a slope).
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Aug 4, 2013 17:39
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:The great thing about cardboard/newspaper is that you can till it in once the weeds are baked down and have free mulch. Plastic, not so much. Good point. I'm just concerned that due to the slope and size of the yard it'll be more than I want to take on. I should mention that laziness is a factor too.
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Aug 4, 2013 17:40
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I can totally relate, but once you have it rebooted with the cardboard/paper you can cover it with mulch which will keep the weeds down or just get a Dutch hoe and give it a weekly once over and things won't get out of hand.
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Aug 4, 2013 17:51
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Food for thought. I should also mention that this is my sister's new place, and I'm helping out because her husband is recovering from a car accident. I'll discuss all options with them and see what makes the most sense for them. The cardboard/paper route may indeed be the way to go as they are or at least were planning to terrace the backyard at some point anyway. But that was before their budget got blown to bits, so we'll see what the new plan is. Thanks priznat.
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Aug 4, 2013 18:00
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socketwrencher posted:Got a sloped backyard that I'm trying to de-weed. What are you trying to get at here? As in, what's it supposed to look like once it's been "de weeded"......because it's certainly not going to stay that way if it's just dirt regardless of how thorough of a job you do. Is this going to end up being replanted with grass? Landscape beds?
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Aug 4, 2013 18:11
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Motronic posted:What are you trying to get at here? As in, what's it supposed to look like once it's been "de weeded"......because it's certainly not going to stay that way if it's just dirt regardless of how thorough of a job you do. Agreed that weed maintenance will be an ongoing issue. Right now the hill is completely covered with 6" tall dry weeds. The idea is to remove them both for aesthetic reasons and so raised flower/vegetable beds could be constructed (there are areas that are flat enough for this). Longer-range plans include terracing the hill and creating useable space for a few deck chairs, maybe a fire pit, etc. When it rains, or even drizzles, the weeds just explode. So the idea is to remove as much as possible to minimize the explosion. All options are being explored, and plans are in flux due to a variety of circumstances. This discussion is very helpful and appreciated.
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Aug 4, 2013 18:35
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On a different note, we used diatomaceous earth (food grade) in a dirt crawlspace and got rid of a huge community of fleas. So much better than pumping in chemicals. We tried bowls of water with a bit of liquid soap, and those sticky traps that come with a small light bulb, and they both worked in a limited way, but the D.E. seems to have completely resolved the issue.
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Aug 4, 2013 18:44
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socketwrencher posted:All options are being explored, and plans are in flux due to a variety of circumstances. This discussion is very helpful and appreciated. I'm not one to use a lot of chemicals unless they're really necessary, but this sounds like a job for some 2,4-D and glyphosate (50/50 mixture). It will need to be reapplied probably monthly. The only other chemical option that would last longer is Gramoxone, which I absolutely do NOT suggest in this situation. If/when you decide to seed any part of a yard that has been treated with 2.4-D and/or glyphosate you should be safe within 10 days to do so. socketwrencher posted:On a different note, we used diatomaceous earth (food grade) in a dirt crawlspace and got rid of a huge community of fleas. So much better than pumping in chemicals. We tried bowls of water with a bit of liquid soap, and those sticky traps that come with a small light bulb, and they both worked in a limited way, but the D.E. seems to have completely resolved the issue. DE is awesome. I keep a sock full of it in my greenhouse. Yes, a sock. Hold it over where you need it and tap/shake. It's a perfect dispenser.
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Aug 4, 2013 18:44
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If weeds are the only thing on this slope I am worried about erosion. Topsoil rise is going to lose overall mass and also suffer runoff channels.
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Aug 4, 2013 18:52
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Motronic posted:I'm not one to use a lot of chemicals unless they're really necessary, but this sounds like a job for some 2,4-D and glyphosate (50/50 mixture). It will need to be reapplied probably monthly. The only other chemical option that would last longer is Gramoxone, which I absolutely do NOT suggest in this situation. Thanks for the chemical info but we're trying to avoid them at all costs. I like the sock idea. Dispensing/broadcasting DE was indeed the biggest challenge (an extremely minor one, but still).
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Aug 4, 2013 18:57
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:If weeds are the only thing on this slope I am worried about erosion. Topsoil rise is going to lose overall mass and also suffer runoff channels. There are trees and bushes and- yes- cactus! I think I need to upgrade my account to post pics. socketwrencher fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Aug 4, 2013 |
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Aug 4, 2013 19:03
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Don't have any good pics but here's a glimpse:
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Aug 4, 2013 19:21
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Note the giant compressor left by the previous owner. Took 6 people to carry it down.
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Aug 4, 2013 19:26
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socketwrencher posted:Thanks Grover. Makes sense as the cost of the additional concrete seems relatively minor given that you're already paying for the grading/forms/pump truck etc. Fiber mesh is junk for several reasons. Putting enough fiber in to do any good makes the batcher add more water to get it out of the truck, defeating the shrinkability problem, and causing finishing problems. The elastic ratio during temperature changes is about the same for concrete and steel, so no extra stress is placed on the concrete due to temperature change. The plastic just stretches, causing cracks. Unless you are the highway department and special ordering the mesh it isn't going to be spec'd to what you need. The quick guide on steel driveways is #4 (1/2" bar diameter; not the 3/8 that is typically stocked) and should be at 12" oc both ways. On 6" thick concrete (for fork lift traffic and trucks) it is #5 rebar at 12" oc both ways. Your rebar should be either chaired with concrete or clay brick, or they make a tiny plastic chair that will hold it at 2" off the compacted earth. So if you really want to sperg out:
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Aug 4, 2013 23:20
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Hed posted:Awesome concrete driveway. What do you think about 8" footers all the way around a 4" slab with the rebar bent down into the footer? It seemed to combine the best of both worlds: not cracking at the corners from heavy traffic and not as much concrete required.
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Aug 5, 2013 02:08
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Socketwrencher: Are you planning on forming, placing and finishing this driveway yourself, or having someone do it for you? I ask for several reasons: 1. If you are having someone else do this, Welded Wire Fabric (WWF) is perfectly acceptable as an alternative to rebar. If you feel like doing some math, check out http://rebar.ecn.purdue.edu/wwr/resDesign.aspx . It is just hard to get the mats ( or rolls) to your house and placed if you don't have a truck / trailer and several friends to drag it along. 2. Does this driveway connect to any city property? If so you will most likely need an encroachment permit. This at least needs a brief visit to the county/ city to make sure they are ok with your plans. This ensures they are not going to make you rip anything out for non compliance (ADA compliance being one), or penalize you in some way. 3. You mentioned a pump truck. Is your property hilly, or in some way unaccessible by concrete truck? Most front driveways are usually easily done with the chutes on the concrete truck. Again, this is most. 4. While clouds are good, RAIN IS BAD. Not so bad after everything has been down and finished for a couple hours, but finishing the concrete while it is raining? Forget about it. 5. Coloring concrete: If you are going the colored concrete route, check into getting the batch plant to mix the color for you. Yeah, it will cost more per yard, and there will be a per yard minimum, but this is the preferred way in my part of the world. 6. Depending on your location and your mix designs, 2500 psi mix should be sufficient for your driveway. Here in good old Arizona, 2500 psi design strength reaches about 3300 PSI in about 7 days. 7. Stay off your driveway for at least 3 days, longer is better to a maximum of 7 days. The concrete will continue curing ( hardening) for the next 28 days, and then slowly for the rest of its life.
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Aug 5, 2013 02:37
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I just bought a cheap 50ft^2 solar panel off amazon to heat my pool. This panel as well as a spare pump I have that I'm going to run it with accept 1.25" or 1.5" pool hose clamped on. What's the easiest cheapest stuff I can buy at lowes to adapt a garden hose to something 1.25" id that can be clamped onto the pump outlet + solar inlet + outlet? To locate this panel where it actually needs to be I'd spend more $ on pool hose than I would have the panel itself and probably a bit more even than if I went all out & buried pvc. For now I want to try garden hose.
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Aug 5, 2013 20:50
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You'll find adapters from hose threads to several different diameters of PVC at any big hardware store. Piece them together like Legos till you get where you want, then buy some purple primer and PVC glue.
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Aug 5, 2013 21:20
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Wagonburner posted:I just bought a cheap 50ft^2 solar panel off amazon to heat my pool. It took me a moment to realize you mean 50 square feet and not fifty feet by fifty feet. I thought maybe you wanted to boil your guests alive in a 30,000 gallon stew. Anyway, I'd love to see pics of your setup. I've got a pool I'd love to heat for another couple of usable months.
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Aug 6, 2013 00:04
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:What do you think about 8" footers all the way around a 4" slab with the rebar bent down into the footer? It seemed to combine the best of both worlds: not cracking at the corners from heavy traffic and not as much concrete required. I think that would be great if you could still compact the edges. If not, I'd just taper them. Compaction is more important than thickness in this case.
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Aug 6, 2013 00:51
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Hed posted:Fiber mesh is junk for several reasons. Putting enough fiber in to do any good makes the batcher add more water to get it out of the truck, defeating the shrinkability problem, and causing finishing problems. The elastic ratio during temperature changes is about the same for concrete and steel, so no extra stress is placed on the concrete due to temperature change. The plastic just stretches, causing cracks. Unless you are the highway department and special ordering the mesh it isn't going to be spec'd to what you need. Whoa- great information. I've never had luck with caulking concrete joints but maybe a better brand like Sikaflex will hold up. Thanks so much Hed.
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Aug 6, 2013 02:45
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morethanjake32 posted:Socketwrencher: Are you planning on forming, placing and finishing this driveway yourself, or having someone do it for you? I ask for several reasons: Thanks jake32. This will be hired out. The driveway meets a city street and I've already been to the county building dept as this is an unincorporated area and will pull permits once the details are sorted out. I was thinking pump truck because I'm assuming they'll be starting at the back end of the driveway, but I don't really know. The property is hilly but the driveway and street are not; access is good.
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Aug 6, 2013 02:54
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High Lord Elbow posted:It took me a moment to realize you mean 50 square feet and not fifty feet by fifty feet. I thought maybe you wanted to boil your guests alive in a 30,000 gallon stew. I guess I did write that weird. http://www.amazon.com/20-Foot-Solar...ver+solar+panel This is what I bought. (delivery tomorrow) 20' * 2.5' strip. It says on the box good for up to a 24' round above-ground. I have an 18'. Pool forum people say I need more like 2 or 3 of these, I'm going to start with 1 like the box says and see what happens. I saw another website talking about solar heating saying you want to have 50-100% the square footage of your pool as panels. I guess 18' is 254 sqft so 1 doesn't seem like its going to meet that rule either. Ours doesn't get too cold now but if this one panel really does warm it up some I'll quickly buy more to keep it open a few weeks later Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Aug 6, 2013 |
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Aug 6, 2013 15:03
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Re: soil solarization. I did it. I wanted to kill off any weeds and bermuda grass before changing turf to buffalo grass. I just bought some painters' sheeting to use as the cover. Had to water the yard for about 2 days straight to get the soil soaked to the recommended depth (~10") in the guide I found and then I laid down the sheeting and used various yard debris to hold down the edges-- bricks, rocks, some pipe, etc. I let it sit for about 2 months in the late summer arizona sun, and I got the soil up to about 130 degrees in ambients of 90ish at a depth of 6 or so inches. I ended up not planting till this spring and the solarization killed (and kept from returning) about 95% of the vegetation. I only had to spot-spray with herbicide in a few places.
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Aug 6, 2013 23:09
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Wagonburner posted:I guess I did write that weird. Yeah, my problem is similar - my pool is 45'x18', and I'd like to heat it, but I don't want to lay out the square footage necessary. Right now it has an oil heater, but I'd be an idiot to heat 32,000 gallons of water with oil. I'd also be broke.
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Aug 7, 2013 12:01
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Qwijib0 posted:Re: soil solarization. I did it. I wanted to kill off any weeds and bermuda grass before changing turf to buffalo grass. I just bought some painters' sheeting to use as the cover. Had to water the yard for about 2 days straight to get the soil soaked to the recommended depth (~10") in the guide I found and then I laid down the sheeting and used various yard debris to hold down the edges-- bricks, rocks, some pipe, etc. I let it sit for about 2 months in the late summer arizona sun, and I got the soil up to about 130 degrees in ambients of 90ish at a depth of 6 or so inches. 95% non-return sounds great. I'm going to give this a shot- thanks.
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Aug 7, 2013 15:27
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Washing machine started leaking and upon inspection...a god damned hair pin found its way in to the pump and the impeller fired it THROUGH the plastic housing. Picture of the two holes: Now I could buy a new pump...or I could seal these holes. Any thoughts on the best method to seal the holes up? Its marked "PPT-40" which I think means it's polypropylene dwoloz fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Aug 8, 2013 |
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Aug 8, 2013 02:07
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After having a hairpin shot through it I would not put much stock in that pump's innards still being intact. If it were me I'd just buy a new part.
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Aug 8, 2013 06:47
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dwoloz posted:Washing machine started leaking and upon inspection...a god damned hair pin found its way in to the pump and the impeller fired it THROUGH the plastic housing. Picture of the two holes: I'd put my money on JB Weld. Still, look up the cost of the part. If it's over $100, look into buying a new.. used washer.
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Aug 8, 2013 07:28
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Is there a better way to break up and remove a 1-3" thick cracked concrete pad (about 10' by 20') than renting a jackhammer and going to town? About a third is salvageable and will stay there as a small patio, but the rest needs to go. I don't think there's any rebar or support mesh or anything in it. Related, what's the best way to till up the ground under the pad once it's up? Basically our back yard is a mess and it would be cool if we could tear it up this winter to seed/plant in spring. We have a small gas-operated tiller, but this is going to be hard frozen red clay compacted by concrete sitting on it for 60 years.
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Aug 8, 2013 13:31
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Tourette Meltdown posted:Is there a better way to break up and remove a 1-3" thick cracked concrete pad (about 10' by 20') than renting a jackhammer and going to town? About a third is salvageable and will stay there as a small patio, but the rest needs to go. I don't think there's any rebar or support mesh or anything in it. Better than a jackhammer? No. Possible to do without one? Sure. You've seen old prison movies where the inmates punishment is to break rocks all day with a pick? You could do that. Also, you'll need to saw cut at the section you want to keep. Tourette Meltdown posted:Related, what's the best way to till up the ground under the pad once it's up? Basically our back yard is a mess and it would be cool if we could tear it up this winter to seed/plant in spring. We have a small gas-operated tiller, but this is going to be hard frozen red clay compacted by concrete sitting on it for 60 years. If it's really all red clay you don't need to break it up so much as you need to get rid of it and put down some topsoil What size of an area are you talking about? If it's small you can beat it into submission with a digging bar and a shovel. If it's a significant size it's worth the money to rent a bobcat (or hire someone with one). You'll need a topsoil delivery anyway, and also somewhere to put all that concrete and clay. Having a machine around will speed up the process immensely. Also, fall is the perfect time to get new grass started. Much better than spring. By next summer you can have a great law there if you do the right stuff.
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Aug 8, 2013 13:46
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Tourette Meltdown posted:Is there a better way to break up and remove a 1-3" thick cracked concrete pad (about 10' by 20') than renting a jackhammer and going to town? About a third is salvageable and will stay there as a small patio, but the rest needs to go. I don't think there's any rebar or support mesh or anything in it. I'm going to be doing the same thing sometime. I like the prisoner pickaxe suggestion, my pad isn't that big. My house came with a WTF ~12x6' pad in the side yard made out of mortar and the same rocks the house is made of. No one has a clue what it would have been for. Unlevel/bumpy as poo poo. I suppose it's big enough to park like a jet-ski trailer on but why?
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Aug 8, 2013 14:53
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