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Checked the tb coupler and it's fine. Perhaps installed incorrectly last time? Assuming that's not the case (???) how else would oil coat that whole red hose? It seems like the damage to the red hose would be obvious unless it's just seeping ever so slowly. I may have to buy/rent a pressure tester but that sounds like a serious pain in my rear end.
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Aug 7, 2013 01:30
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GrAviTy84 posted:Edit: How does, say, going catless on the uppipe affect smog test stuff? Without the EGT sensor, you will get a CEL. If you have a tune, it will get rid of that for you. If you don't, you can put a 2.2kOhm resistor in the sensor's plug to fake the correct signal and get rid of the code. A lot of people are selling their V2 AccessPorts right now if you want to get a tune. I don't know which states still do sniffer tests, but let's assume yours does. I don't think you have much to worry about here, but I'm not positive. The uppipe cat is placed in front of the turbo because it gets very hot there, so it will heat up quickly and help with cold start emissions. The problem is if it gets too hot, the cat can fail and destroy the turbo. That's what the EGT sensor is for, to check the cat's temperature. So if you're going for an inspection and you need to pass a sniffer test, just make sure your car is good and warm so that the primary cats can do their job.
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Aug 7, 2013 04:08
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Neptr posted:Without the EGT sensor, you will get a CEL. If you have a tune, it will get rid of that for you. If you don't, you can put a 2.2kOhm resistor in the sensor's plug to fake the correct signal and get rid of the code. A lot of people are selling their V2 AccessPorts right now if you want to get a tune. I pass smog with flying colors with an OEM DP and an STI catless UP. The only purpose of the up is to clean emissions when cold. If the car is warm, you're fine (and even if it is cold, subaru got rid of the UP on later models without changing the DP. . .), and the STI UP looks OEM because it is. It looks lovely and says subaru on it!. I would not use an aftermarket DP in CA as if they see that, it is an instafail. DP is pretty easy to swap before SMOG, but the UP is more involved, so I just swap my DP and have been fine.
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Aug 7, 2013 06:27
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I'm a proud new owner of a 2005 Forester XS and I want this vehicle (147k currently) to last me a good while. I know I should get the newer headgaskets on there ASAP and I plan on taking it in to my mechanic for a general inspection. I don't know a whole lot of what the only previous owner did to it but I believe the belt has been replaced. What should I be looking at replacing next if I want this car to take me past 250k+?
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Aug 7, 2013 19:02
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If you are not 100% sure the tb has been done, do it asap.
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Aug 7, 2013 19:22
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nm posted:If you are not 100% sure the tb has been done, do it asap. welcome to the Timing Belt woes/"oh poo poo I wish I knew if this was done before I bought the car because fuuuuuu that's expensive" club
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Aug 7, 2013 19:29
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Going to change my Motor and Transmission mount to the Group-Ns on the RS tonight. Motor mounts I have done, but never the Transmission on. Anything I should know? I'm thinking it's as easy as jack up tranny a little, drop the transmission crossmember, replace mount.
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Aug 7, 2013 19:48
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daslog posted:Going to change my Motor and Transmission mount to the Group-Ns on the RS tonight. Motor mounts I have done, but never the Transmission on. Anything I should know? I'm thinking it's as easy as jack up tranny a little, drop the transmission crossmember, replace mount. You can take most of a Subaru apart with 10, 12, 14, and 17mm sockets. The two nuts that hold the mount to the crossmember? 15mm. I don't get it. E: Just looked at an install guide, and it said the nuts were 14mm. God, I hate owning a used car sometimes. Neptr fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Aug 7, 2013 |
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Aug 7, 2013 20:04
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daslog posted:Going to change my Motor and Transmission mount to the Group-Ns on the RS tonight. Motor mounts I have done, but never the Transmission on. Anything I should know? I'm thinking it's as easy as jack up tranny a little, drop the transmission crossmember, replace mount. It's a little bit more involved than that, pretty sure the exhaust and exhaust heat shields have to be removed to get at it. I did mine while doing the driveshaft so all that stuff was out anyway. Other than that it was stupid easy.
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Aug 7, 2013 20:10
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You just support the trans with the jack, take off the trans x-member, change mount. Super simple.Neptr posted:You can take most of a Subaru apart with 10, 12, 14, and 17mm sockets. The two nuts that hold the mount to the crossmember? 15mm. I don't get it. They are supposed to be 14mm
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Aug 7, 2013 20:10
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Basically, when buying ANY used car that has an interference engine and a timing belt (that has mileage close to, or beyond the change interval), require them to produce records of that timing belt service done. If they don't have it, the price of the car gets discounted by a grand to account for the service.
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Aug 7, 2013 20:24
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Larrymer posted:Here's your stock map. Thanks for the suggestion. You have to register for this site and then get approved by a moderator before you can access anything. I registered when I read your post and still haven't been approved so I can't see or access the map. I googled "2005 legacy gt stock map" and there are hits but I really don't know what I'm looking for. These are probably the same ones: http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7591 But an 05 legacy gt MT has the following calibration IDs: A2WC500N A2WC510N A2WC511N A2WC521N A2WC522N From google, it sounds like 522N is the latest revision but I can't say for sure. Any advice?
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Aug 7, 2013 23:02
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Speaking of timing belts, my 98 Legacy just hit 180k and I'm going to be taking it in for the 60k mile service next week. The timing belt was last changed at 105k in 2005. Now while the old one lasted that long, that 105k was put on in a lot less time than the last 75k since it hasn't been driven as much without an 80 mile commute every day. I was going to have them do it at the same time to hopefully save on labor, am I being premature? Also since the 60k service includes a diff/transmission fluid change, is Extra-S worth it? The mechanic says he has some and it's a bit more pricey, but the transmission syncros are kinda lovely (especially 1st) but otherwise it shifts smooth, save for the ridiculous play (2-3") in the shifter. Oh and anyone near Philly really ought to check this place out, it's awesome: http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/2013/08/07/a-journey-to-subaru-of-americas-history-collection/
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Aug 7, 2013 23:42
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I can't imagine anything in the 60k service that would save labor on the timing belt other than potentially filling the cooling system.
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Aug 8, 2013 00:00
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That's what I was thinking, just wanted the opinion of someone who has actually done the job before. So besides not saving a lot on labor, is it premature?
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Aug 8, 2013 00:19
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How serious is a P000b code on the check engine light? Like immanent death, or I can drive around for a few days? Here's an associated service bulletin: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20080&d=1352490977
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Aug 8, 2013 01:14
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Sudo Echo posted:That's what I was thinking, just wanted the opinion of someone who has actually done the job before. So besides not saving a lot on labor, is it premature? Someone just said, within the last two pages I think, that the timing belt is 105K/8.75yr, so I guess you are due if that's the truth. You can get Subaru Extra-S for $15 a quart with Amazon Prime. Generic synthetic 75W-90 is $10-12 a quart. You need ~5qts for a trans and rear diff fluid change. Just checked the FSM for the Impreza and it's every 105 months or 105K miles. Neptr fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Aug 8, 2013 |
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Aug 8, 2013 03:26
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Neptr posted:You can get Subaru Extra-S for $15 a quart with Amazon Prime. Generic synthetic 75W-90 is $10-12 a quart. You need ~5qts for a trans and rear diff fluid change. For oil, I looked into this like nuts for my car so thought I'd share. If you have a DCCD Subaru tranny you seem to be best served with Motul 300 *NON-LS* 75w90. For the rear diff, Motul 90PA if you have an LSD. I used 5w-40 for my engine/front diff oil on advice from my local race fabrication/tuning shop.
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Aug 8, 2013 03:46
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The STi control arms I have are missing this piece for the bushing. Can I buy these seperately?
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Aug 8, 2013 06:07
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MrZig posted:The STi control arms I have are missing this piece for the bushing. Can I buy these seperately? What exact car is that piece from? I'll see if I can pull a part number for you. Edit:  I believe that's part number 20283 - "Fitting - Transverse link". Sourced from an MY00 STi. You could call a dealer about ordering one in - I have no idea. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Aug 8, 2013 |
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Aug 8, 2013 06:16
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VelociBacon posted:What exact car is that piece from? I'll see if I can pull a part number for you. Woops, off a 2006 STi. Looks like new ones are $150 ish EACH. I'm better off to buy a set of used control arms and keep mine as spares..
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Aug 8, 2013 06:26
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I bought a 2002 Outback today. Engine seems fine, and I had it checked over by a friend who knows cars (as well as myself, but I only know a tiny bit) and it displayed no symptoms of head gasket problems. Test drive went fine, no weird noises or anything. Tonight, I noticed that it's making a "clunk" from the front/right side when turning sharply right (left is fine) at anything other than very low speed. This was not apparent during a test drive, driving it home, or driving across the city this afternoon. The problem persists when I add a fuse to the FWD slot in the box. Any idea what it might be? The CV boots looked fine, but I know that's no guarantee the joints are actually OK. Googling tells me it could be an axle or wheel bearing problem, but I'm a bit lost.
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Aug 8, 2013 11:56
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AlphaDog posted:I bought a 2002 Outback today. Engine seems fine, and I had it checked over by a friend who knows cars (as well as myself, but I only know a tiny bit) and it displayed no symptoms of head gasket problems. Test drive went fine, no weird noises or anything. Axle, wheel bearing, or strut/tophat
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Aug 8, 2013 13:27
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Are those things going to be super expensive to fix in Australia?
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Aug 8, 2013 13:41
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FogHelmut posted:How serious is a P000b code on the check engine light? Like immanent death, or I can drive around for a few days? I called the service department at the dealership, they said I would be fine to drive around until they can look at it on Tuesday.
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Aug 8, 2013 13:52
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VelociBacon posted:For oil, I looked into this like nuts for my car so thought I'd share. If you have a DCCD Subaru tranny you seem to be best served with Motul 300 *NON-LS* 75w90. For the rear diff, Motul 90PA if you have an LSD. So is the GC drivetrain different from the 6spd DCCD unit? I'm pretty sure in the sti 6 speed the front diff, center diff, and tranny all use the same sump. I know you have a 5 spd with DCCD, I'm just curious. Also I swapped my driveline fluids to extra s at 18 or so k miles and it's felt great.
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Aug 8, 2013 15:00
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Homers BBBq posted:Thanks for the suggestion. The first time you hook up romraider it will read your ECU ID in the bottom right. Just use that one.
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Aug 8, 2013 16:08
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FogHelmut posted:How serious is a P000b code on the check engine light? Like immanent death, or I can drive around for a few days? Looks to be the same TSB for the cam positioning sensor on the FA20 in the BRZ, in which case it just goes into a semi-limp mode. I know it's a super-common issue on the BRZ/FRS and yes, you are fine to drive around on it. The ECU update that corrects the problem adjusts how the cam position sensors are polled. Back when they didn't know what the root cause was, they were ripping out cam gear assemblies and replacing them as a correction.
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Aug 8, 2013 16:21
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Linux Nazi posted:Looks to be the same TSB for the cam positioning sensor on the FA20 in the BRZ, in which case it just goes into a semi-limp mode. I know it's a super-common issue on the BRZ/FRS and yes, you are fine to drive around on it. Yeah, I don't notice any loss of power or anything. Just the CEL is on, and the traction control light as well.
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Aug 8, 2013 16:58
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I've got an 02 wagon, and we are doing a work track day coming up. Hallett Motor Racing circuit:   How bad do I NEED the killer b P/U? Is it trackday = HAHAHAHAHAHA BYE BYE BEARING? http://www.killerbmotorsport.com/index_files/EJ20UltimatePickup.htm Do I need the baffle too? Jamal, should I buy it through you or direct from Killer B?
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Aug 8, 2013 17:08
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Sudo Echo posted:Oh and anyone near Philly really ought to check this place out, it's awesome: http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/2013/08/07/a-journey-to-subaru-of-americas-history-collection/ Awesome, will have to check that out. Edit: poo poo: "it’s certainly not a museum, and it’s not open to the public" toplitzin posted:How bad do I NEED the killer b P/U? Is it trackday = HAHAHAHAHAHA BYE BYE BEARING? So, uh...bull3964...what do you think you'd let that 2002 WRX go for? Just curious, don't even have a garage at the moment. Jared592 fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Aug 8, 2013 |
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Aug 8, 2013 19:17
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Yeah, the killer B pickup doesn't offer any performance or oiling upgrades over the stock part unless the stock one cracks. Which happens. So the better upgrade is getting a newer sti pan which is shaped and baffled better. You also need a new windage tray and pickup to work with the new pan, so at that point I think it's worth it to buy the killer b part.
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Aug 8, 2013 19:19
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I thought the 02's (EJ20's) had an acceptable pan and just needed the baffle? Or at least that's how it looked from the Killer B website.
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Aug 8, 2013 19:55
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No those ones have the old square pan that is not very good. Something like the 07+ wrx got the new one. Here's all of them next to each other with part numbers: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=27383408&postcount=36
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Aug 8, 2013 20:10
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06 and onwards WRX has the new pan. Shop ordered an STI pan in for me and then discovered it was the same on my car when they were doing the pickup and baffle/scraper.
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Aug 8, 2013 20:21
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MrZig posted:Woops, off a 2006 STi. I have a no good aluminium control arm from a 2000 GC STi. I could unbolt you one and send it for a couple bucks.
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Aug 8, 2013 21:30
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Jared592 posted:
Heh, I'm NOT quite ready to part with it yet despite my frustration. It's the first car I ever bought new and was my first real "grown up" purchase so there's a bit of sentimental value there. I would trade my 2011 in a heartbeat for something better, but I pains me to think of getting rid of the 2002.
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Aug 8, 2013 21:35
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:So is the GC drivetrain different from the 6spd DCCD unit? I'm pretty sure in the sti 6 speed the front diff, center diff, and tranny all use the same sump. I know you have a 5 spd with DCCD, I'm just curious. In my car I believe the front diff and engine use the same sump and the tranny uses a different one. I'm not sure about the center diff to be honest. I would love to do a 6spd DCCD swap (or even a 6spd non-dccd), having a 4.444 final drive means on the highway at 120kph I'm sitting around 4000 rpm. Edit: AlphaDog posted:I bought a 2002 Outback today. Engine seems fine, and I had it checked over by a friend who knows cars (as well as myself, but I only know a tiny bit) and it displayed no symptoms of head gasket problems. Test drive went fine, no weird noises or anything. To test if it's an endlink have a friend rock the car aggressively back and forth while you hold the endlink, you'll feel any clunking if it's there. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Aug 8, 2013 |
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Aug 8, 2013 21:37
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AlphaDog posted:I bought a 2002 Outback today. Engine seems fine, and I had it checked over by a friend who knows cars (as well as myself, but I only know a tiny bit) and it displayed no symptoms of head gasket problems. Test drive went fine, no weird noises or anything. I had a similar clumk and it was the front endlinks. Replaced them and no more clunking. Relatively cheap fix.
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Aug 8, 2013 21:49
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Sockington posted:I have a no good aluminium control arm from a 2000 GC STi. They're keyed side to side (hence the camber trick). Which side is the one you need it from? I have a busted drivers' side (USDM driver's side... the left side) JDM GC aluminum arm with a good one of those.
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Aug 8, 2013 22:10
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