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Revvik
Jul 29, 2006
Fun Shoe
Probably the same, although I would then have to decide between a 1x18 and a 2x15 to put under a 410 cab.

And then I'd be like "gently caress I have two 410 cabs I could run two full stacks."

I'm just being greedy though and should focus on either moving away from my Portaflex 500 head + Sansamp into tube territory or start messing around with more effects, especially since my drummer's dad saw this:

http://chemistrydesignwerks.com/holeyboard-wide.html

and built me this:

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Kilometers Davis
Jul 9, 2007

They begin again

I'm looking for the bass string equivalent of DR Pure Blues. Is there anything out there like that?

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Kilometers Davis posted:

I'm looking for the bass string equivalent of DR Pure Blues. Is there anything out there like that?

https://www.bassstringsonline.com/DR-Jonas-Hellborg-Signature-4-String-Set_p_47.html

Kilometers Davis
Jul 9, 2007

They begin again


Leave it to Hellborg to have me covered. Thanks man!

Ericadia
Oct 31, 2007

Not A Unicorn
Hey bass thread, I want to pick your minds:

I have a 1963 Harmony H22, it's a hollow-body with a short scale neck and hifi pickup. Love the bass, sounds like a contra etc, but my issue is that the drat thing is not weight balanced. The center of gravity is in the neck somewhere. Changing the strap mounting points hasn't helped much, and the wood isn't sturdy enough for it in several places. So now I'm thinking, since it's a hollow body, maybe there is a way I could mount some counter-weights on the inside, possibly behind the bridge. Has anyone ever heard of anything like this, or have thoughts on materials/methods (keep in mind this bass is :corsair: and loved dearly)?

Scarf
Jun 24, 2005

On sight
Have you tried a super-wide, padded shoulder strap? You'd be surprised how much that can help, especially combined with a slightly different mount-point.

Ericadia
Oct 31, 2007

Not A Unicorn

Scarf posted:

Have you tried a super-wide, padded shoulder strap? You'd be surprised how much that can help, especially combined with a slightly different mount-point.

Would this stop the bass from dropping neck first (apologies, I just realized I didn't mention that in my post)? As it is now with a 3" canvas strap, the thing will dip hard and fast if I let go with my left hand, and the body will go into my armpit.

Scarf
Jun 24, 2005

On sight

Ericadia posted:

Would this stop the bass from dropping neck first (apologies, I just realized I didn't mention that in my post)? As it is now with a 3" canvas strap, the thing will dip hard and fast if I let go with my left hand, and the body will go into my armpit.

Does your strap have any padding? Is it leather? Or just the kinda typical nylon strap? If it's a super severe drop like that, a wider, padded/leather strap will definitely at least help tame the drop. Other than that, no clue man, sorry. I've never tried to counter-weight a hollowbody before :\

Regardless, a good, wide padded/leather strap is a great $20-$30 investment. Even on well balanced basses it makes them so much more comfortable to play for extended periods of time. So if you don't have one, I'd recommend one anyway.

Hope you can figure something out, I love old hollowbodies like those. And please post some pics if you get a chance, I'd love to see it.

Ericadia
Oct 31, 2007

Not A Unicorn

Scarf posted:

Does your strap have any padding? Is it leather? Or just the kinda typical nylon strap? If it's a super severe drop like that, a wider, padded/leather strap will definitely at least help tame the drop. Other than that, no clue man, sorry. I've never tried to counter-weight a hollowbody before :\

Regardless, a good, wide padded/leather strap is a great $20-$30 investment. Even on well balanced basses it makes them so much more comfortable to play for extended periods of time. So if you don't have one, I'd recommend one anyway.

Hope you can figure something out, I love old hollowbodies like those. And please post some pics if you get a chance, I'd love to see it.

Its a leather strap but zero padding. I've never put much thought into straps, but I did a quick search for "padded guitar strap" and just looking at some of these soothes my shoulder. If it doesn't help the nosediving, I think you are right that it looks like a good investment. I've been using the same two straps for like a decade now so I'm open to suggestions. 4-1/2" Levy looks pretty nice.

And yeah I could take some pictures of it, although it isn't very pretty. I rescued it from a friend as a teenager (my first bass actually). A few paint chips, a few dents, garbage aftermarket tuners, frayed/scrambled wiring, but the worst thing was some really bad water damage near the output jack that had rotted the wood away to the point where the jack was just dangling out the bottom, and the original rear strap peg is lost to history. Being my first bass I had a sentimental attachment to it and years later paid a luthier to fix it up, even though I had two other good, working basses. I assumed it was just some random, broken, lovely bass; didn't think it was very old. The first time I brought it to the luthier he said "oh wow that's an old guy!" He did some research and found the year and model. Like I said before, the electronics were totally batshit on this bass when I first got it, so it never actually worked plugged-in, and man the first time I plugged it in after the wires were all sorted out was goose bump town.

The sound it makes is pretty distinct from my other basses too. It makes a charming "UNK" sound, if that makes any sense. It has a big white finger switch that puts the bass in either baritone mode or booming big bass mode (I've nick-named this the "Thunder Switch"). But oh drat I'm babbling about my bass now oops.

tl;dr: guy meets bass, guy fixes bass, guy loves bass. Will probably post pictures

RetardedRobots
Dec 19, 2010

Have you seen this man?
Melon "Weed" Dude 1936 - 2011
Rest in peace, you shitposting bastard.

Ericadia posted:

Will probably post pictures
With that bass, I think your top strap pin would have to be near the 12th fret or so to get a barely workable balance, it's just way too neck heavy. Fenders balance well because their top pin is around 12 and the body-neck weight ratio is better.

Do this test: Hold the bass by the strap like three inches or so from the top pin so it's basically balancing on the top pin only. When I do that test, my Fenders get perpendicular to the floor and my very neck dive-y (somewhat strap fixable, but still a pain to play) Gibson ends up around 45 degrees. If yours ends up worse than 45--I suspect your headstock will hit the floor--you really have trouble.

Crazy suggestion that should work: Try tying the strap to the headstock like an acoustic guitar instead of using the top pin.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...
Swapped out the stock JJ/Ruby set in my Streamliner for a JAN 5751 and a pair of Tung-Sols, and I'm pleased with the results so far. The low end is much tighter, without any of the farty distortion on the lowest strings, and the overall sound seems much more balanced.

Now I need a better cab so I can really hear the difference between the Streamliner and Shuttle. I think Baer is calling my name.

duggimon
Oct 19, 2007

If I had a horse I'd buy it oats and fuck it
Anyone know a bit about Rickenbackers who could help me out here? I have a '79 4001 that's in for repair just now, the jack connections on it are intermittent and having already had it taken apart, cleaned, rewired and resoldered I think I need to replace the jacks. Problem is with the Rick is that it's a weird setup with the one main output that does both pickups but has a second output that switches the outputs to be one for each pickup. I have no idea if I'm explaining this clearly enough but what I need to know is what bits to buy in order to replicate the same original function of the outputs. The shop that does my repairs suggested I get the parts myself and bring them in because they'd have to charge me a markup on them and they don't have a trade supplier for Rickenbacker parts.

I'm in the UK so if anyone knows any suppliers this side of the pond that'd be helpful too but really I mainly need to know I'm buying the right parts, I can search about for where to get them myself.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

It is just a regular mono jack and a stereo jack, the pickups go to the stereo jack first, and then those lines are both sent (and combined) to the mono. There's a schematic for this at rickenbacker.com. You can get a prewired setup at ricsrus.com, but at £33 it is overpriced.

Cpt. Spring Types
Feb 19, 2004

Wait, what?
Is it cool to ask if someone wants to do some collaboration in this thread? I have a song I've been working on that needs a much better bass part than what I can conjure. Kind of a dark, crunchy rock song with some twists.

Sounds like this right now: https://soundcloud.com/theblackflash/with-bass/s-xdpV1

If anyone's interested in laying down something sexy on this, give me a PM. Also if it's totally not kosher to ask about this in here, I apologize in advance.

And just so this post has some actual bass-talk content, I found a G&L L1000 in a storage container at work and was messing around with it the other day. I think it could use some work, as it's pretty dirty and the knobs feel loose and the neck isn't straight, but it does sound really good. If I cleaned it up I think it'd be a great bass. It also has no frets and it kinda feels like someone pulled them out and filled the lines themselves. Does anyone happen to know if G&L produced a fretless L1000 that had filled fret lines and wasn't just a solid fingerboard?

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Cpt. Spring Types posted:

And just so this post has some actual bass-talk content, I found a G&L L1000 in a storage container at work and was messing around with it the other day. I think it could use some work, as it's pretty dirty and the knobs feel loose and the neck isn't straight, but it does sound really good. If I cleaned it up I think it'd be a great bass. It also has no frets and it kinda feels like someone pulled them out and filled the lines themselves. Does anyone happen to know if G&L produced a fretless L1000 that had filled fret lines and wasn't just a solid fingerboard?
Factory fretless fingerboards usually have the side markers where the frets would be, not centered like on a normal fretted bass. Where are they on this one? Also, does this have the dot markers on the face of the fretboard? Fretless ones usually don't.

Cpt. Spring Types
Feb 19, 2004

Wait, what?

DrChu posted:

Factory fretless fingerboards usually have the side markers where the frets would be, not centered like on a normal fretted bass. Where are they on this one? Also, does this have the dot markers on the face of the fretboard? Fretless ones usually don't.

ah, yep they are centered between the frets, and it has face inlays. Guess someone probably had a go at it. Figured as much.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

If it's been converted that's probably why the neck isn't straight.
Fretting adds stiffness to a neck and depending on how tight the slots are cut can add a back bow. If you get it and can loan the truss rod completely and gently heat the neck and clamp it to something flat it might straighten out.

FancyMike
May 7, 2007

Hi.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Your cabinet fell over.

Revvik
Jul 29, 2006
Fun Shoe

DrChu posted:

Your cabinet fell over.

I got weak in the knees seeing that too.

Seventh Arrow
Jan 26, 2005

The cabinet is merely worshipping in the hallowed presence of a Rick.

ewe2
Jul 1, 2009

New G&L SB-2 Tribute, built in Dec 2012.



Massive sound!

Gym Leader Barack
Oct 31, 2005

Grimey Drawer

Ericadia posted:

Hey bass thread, I want to pick your minds:

I have a 1963 Harmony H22, it's a hollow-body with a short scale neck and hifi pickup. Love the bass, sounds like a contra etc, but my issue is that the drat thing is not weight balanced. The center of gravity is in the neck somewhere. Changing the strap mounting points hasn't helped much, and the wood isn't sturdy enough for it in several places. So now I'm thinking, since it's a hollow body, maybe there is a way I could mount some counter-weights on the inside, possibly behind the bridge. Has anyone ever heard of anything like this, or have thoughts on materials/methods (keep in mind this bass is :corsair: and loved dearly)?

My main guitar is a Firebird and I have the same neck-heavy issues. I tried repositioning the strap buttons, getting a wider strap, using a big shoulder pad, even buying a HeadsUp strap that has 3 lead weights in the body, and none of it worked as the neck always went on a freefall straight to the floor if I stopped supporting it. I was in the middle of designing some body harness system to mount it to my torso when I stumbled upon a pretty neat solution:

A carabiner clip attached to the guitar strap, which gets hooked to a belt loop at the back of my pants. This prevents the strap from sliding over my shoulder beyond a certain point and keeps the neck at the perfect playing level. The strap I'm using had enough space to thread the clip through it but you could easily melt a hole in any sort of nylon strap and attach it that way. Completely effective and does not damage or modify the guitar in any way.

Macavity
Jun 29, 2006

There never was a cat of such deceitfulness and suavity.
Fun Shoe
That's really clever! Might try doing something like that on my neck-divey viola-style bass.

The Science Goy
Mar 27, 2007

Where did you learn to drive?
What do you hook it to when you play without pants???

I've got a wedding gig tonight, then Sunday I get to play at the Surf Ballroom! The bandleader is bringing markers so we can sign the wall.

The Science Goy fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Aug 9, 2013

ZetsurinPower
Dec 14, 2003

I looooove leftovers!
Is it normal that an SVT-410HE has NO rear end?!??! I know this is the cheaper line of Ampeg 4x10 cabs but drat...its not loud enough :(

I bought this thing last week and its hard to hear over the rest of my band compared to my old piece of poo poo Crate 4x10. I'm pushing it with an SVT-3 Pro this should not be an issue! What am I doing wrong?

PenguinBob
Oct 12, 2000
have it do some squats.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

The 410HE is sealed, so it is always going to have less low end than a ported cab. Plus, it is 8 ohms so you're running the amp at half power. Plus, your amp is an SVT III Pro which many people find to have low output.

You're gonna need to turn the graphic EQ on, boost the right most slider (adjusts overall level), and then boost some of the low and low mid frequencies to taste. Also, don't use the low switch, its actually more of a mid cut than a bass boost, so you'll loose some power that way.

Scarf
Jun 24, 2005

On sight

DrChu posted:

The 410HE is sealed, so it is always going to have less low end than a ported cab. Plus, it is 8 ohms so you're running the amp at half power. Plus, your amp is an SVT III Pro which many people find to have low output.

You're gonna need to turn the graphic EQ on, boost the right most slider (adjusts overall level), and then boost some of the low and low mid frequencies to taste. Also, don't use the low switch, its actually more of a mid cut than a bass boost, so you'll loose some power that way.

My god... It's... the perfect post.


This is pretty much spot on, so yeah, do all that stuff.

Hollis Brownsound
Apr 2, 2009

by Lowtax

Scarf posted:

My god... It's... the perfect post.


This is pretty much spot on, so yeah, do all that stuff.

Seriously, I'm always amazed at how much more bass players know about their gear and the operation of it than guitar players do about theirs.

crazyfish
Sep 19, 2002

DrChu posted:

The 410HE is sealed, so it is always going to have less low end than a ported cab. Plus, it is 8 ohms so you're running the amp at half power. Plus, your amp is an SVT III Pro which many people find to have low output.

You're gonna need to turn the graphic EQ on, boost the right most slider (adjusts overall level), and then boost some of the low and low mid frequencies to taste. Also, don't use the low switch, its actually more of a mid cut than a bass boost, so you'll loose some power that way.

All of this, as I used to own a SVT 3 Pro. If you wanted a cab with rear end, the 410HLF is what you wanted (though I found it waaaaaaaay too boomy).

edit: Anyone have a recommendation on an acoustic/electric bass? I'm looking to play it entirely unamplified and I'd like something that can be heard in a group with other acoustic instruments (no drum kit). Could probably spend a few hundred but I'm not willing to buy something super expensive.

crazyfish fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Aug 10, 2013

Stravinsky
May 31, 2011

crazyfish posted:

edit: Anyone have a recommendation on an acoustic/electric bass? I'm looking to play it entirely unamplified and I'd like something that can be heard in a group with other acoustic instruments (no drum kit). Could probably spend a few hundred but I'm not willing to buy something super expensive.

I practically have a AB-80 Semi Acoustic Bass Guitar and have been using it more and more recently. It sounds pretty good as long as you are aware of the fact that some of the highest frets are going to have a couple of dead spots, but that is pretty much the case for acoustic basses. Your main problem is that most likely you will be drowned out pretty easily unless everyone else is playing softly or your just wailing on the strings.

Declan MacManus
Sep 1, 2011

damn i'm really in this bitch

HollisBrown posted:

Seriously, I'm always amazed at how much more bass players know about their gear and the operation of it than guitar players do about theirs.

Bassists are used to sitting in a mix while guitarists want to be on top of everything.

Maximum Sexy Pigeon
Jun 5, 2008

We must never speak of this!

eh4 posted:

New G&L SB-2 Tribute, built in Dec 2012.



Massive sound!

I have one of these, they are tone monsters!
I recommend everyone get one to replace their Squires and MexiFenders.

DEUCE SLUICE
Feb 6, 2004

I dreamt I was an old dog, stuck in a honeypot. It was horrifying.
I was looking through some old pictures today, and found this.

I love my current rig, (Carvin BX1200 + two Baer ML112's, soon to replace the BX1200 with a Baer Valkyrie) but GOD drat was that a sick rig.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Scarf
Jun 24, 2005

On sight

DEUCE SLUICE posted:

I was looking through some old pictures today, and found this.

I love my current rig, (Carvin BX1200 + two Baer ML112's, soon to replace the BX1200 with a Baer Valkyrie) but GOD drat was that a sick rig.



:gizz:

That is a pretty loving pro rig.

crazyfish
Sep 19, 2002

DEUCE SLUICE posted:

I was looking through some old pictures today, and found this.

I love my current rig, (Carvin BX1200 + two Baer ML112's, soon to replace the BX1200 with a Baer Valkyrie) but GOD drat was that a sick rig.



I don't envy your back though. I'm currently running a TH500 and an Avatar 1x12. Love being able to carry my entire setup in from the car in one trip.

DEUCE SLUICE
Feb 6, 2004

I dreamt I was an old dog, stuck in a honeypot. It was horrifying.
Yeah, it was totally ridiculous size-and-weight-wise, but drat did it sound nice. It was even better after I switched the Sansamp out for one of the first-gen rackmount Aguilar AGRO's.

I'm loving the Baer cabs, though. Huge, huge low capability, punchy as hell, and a beautiful top end with great extension but without that horn "clank." Two of them can hit any volume level I ever needed to with my old GS412, and they're only 37lbs a piece. These Eminence Kappalite speakers are no joke.

ewe2
Jul 1, 2009

I've been drooling over the Baer cabs for a while, but the Valkyrie sounds interesting!

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Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

I went to my local music shop earlier today to pick up a set of four strings, and well, I walked out with six of them instead, attached to a bass.



My first six string. It's weird. But nice. It's a Schechter Studio 6. So far, I loving love it. I'm still not sure what the hell most of the dials do, and there's a lot of them. It just sounds real nice.

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