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Geirskogul posted:I purchased an emote for just such an occasion: This is good advice and is basically true. Except for the ones where you have to drill rivets or cut steel to get at something/fix something because the designer thought 'no one is EVER gonna need to take this apart!' Plus those annoying computers and their wiring smoke.
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Aug 8, 2013 04:19
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Geirskogul posted:Cars are a bolt sandwich. Anyone can make a sandwich. What sandwiches do you make that let coolant puddle in the tail light housings? VW 
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Aug 8, 2013 05:05
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:What sandwiches do you make that let coolant puddle in the tail light housings? That has got to be my absolute favorite mindfuck of a design failure.
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Aug 8, 2013 05:07
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To be a fly on the wall for patient zero....
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Aug 8, 2013 05:08
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Joe Mama posted:
Normally I swear by Napa. Except for Honda ignitors, goddamn I've been burned by too many of those fuckers. Hit up Majestic Honda (and try to order more than one thing at a time, last time I ordered from them they raped me on S&H). What did this come off of? It looks identical to the one I had in my 91 Integra, but it was also used in Civics (and the Accord part looked very similar too).
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Aug 8, 2013 05:59
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:What sandwiches do you make that let coolant puddle in the tail light housings? I thought that was just a blinker fluid leak.
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Aug 8, 2013 10:51
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:What sandwiches do you make that let coolant puddle in the tail light housings? Wait, that's a real thing? How? 
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Aug 8, 2013 12:15
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Coolant migration all the way through the wiring harness from the coolant sensor. Wicks right up. Then it destroys the harness.
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Aug 8, 2013 13:40
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Leak from the coolant reservoir would run down the wiring harness to the lights. Here's the TSB efb
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Aug 8, 2013 13:43
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Hey I never said some sandwiches weren't lovely.
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Aug 8, 2013 16:19
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I saw the Volkswagen emblem and laughed.
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Aug 8, 2013 17:24
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Yeah that's the most  thing I've seen in a while.
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Aug 8, 2013 18:58
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A milder version of the same issue affects TD5-engined Land Rovers. Engine oil wicks up the harness and fills the ECU.
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Aug 8, 2013 19:32
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CroatianAlzheimers posted:
The MazdaSpeed 3's are apparently bad to break motor mounts.
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Aug 8, 2013 21:17
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I, uh, I'm gonna go get a flashlight and check mine right now.
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Farking Bastage posted:The MazdaSpeed 3's are apparently bad to break motor mounts. Yeah, they used the same soft-as-butter mounts that they did in the regular 3 as far as I know - despite the 100hp advantage over the naturally aspirated engine. Even when they're in new condition they don't really work that well.
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Aug 8, 2013 21:42
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Farking Bastage posted:The MazdaSpeed 3's are apparently bad to break motor mounts. Thankfully I have a first generation NA bog standard 3. It's a nice car and all, but I'm currently 800 miles from home with my wife and daughters and with only my emergency road kit in the trunk for tools. So, when I saw those busted mounts on that red car, I had a little uncomfortableness.
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Aug 8, 2013 21:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, they used the same soft-as-butter mounts that they did in the regular 3 as far as I know - despite the 100hp advantage over the naturally aspirated engine. Even when they're in new condition they don't really work that well. Hahaha, yeeeah I'm thinking some motor mounts are going on my christmas list.
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Aug 8, 2013 22:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, they used the same soft-as-butter mounts that they did in the regular 3 as far as I know - despite the 100hp advantage over the naturally aspirated engine. Even when they're in new condition they don't really work that well. Chrysler did this with the 1st gen SRT-4 too. The amount of motor flex brand new off the floor was a sight to behold. Within a month SRTForums was full of threads describing cracked oil pans from the lower mount smacking it under heavy flex and wheel hop.  Been rocking these for a decade. I get some great vibration stopped and idling but that's about it.  Edit: The stock one that broke the pan was the lower right hand one.  You could move the bolt sleeves all the way to the casing. By hand. Maker Of Shoes fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Aug 8, 2013 |
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Aug 8, 2013 22:18
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Maker Of Shoes posted:You could move the bolt sleeves all the way to the casing. By hand. But NVH is lower!!! Christ, no wonder my coworker's regular Neon has poo poo so many motor mounts in the time I've known him.
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Aug 8, 2013 22:38
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Slow is Fast posted:Technically it hasn't failed yet. I have a sacrificial metal bar that's weaker than the mounts in between the skid plate and the mounts, it's faster and easier to replace than repairing mounts. But every time I whack it hard, I end up with bolts like that. You get used to it 
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Aug 9, 2013 02:48
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The aforementioned Speed3 motor mount
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Aug 9, 2013 16:13
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IOwnCalculus posted:But NVH is lower!!! Here's the upper mount that failed in mine at 10k miles. 
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Aug 9, 2013 20:26
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The torque steer, the mounts, and apparently a really aggressive camber is what finally steered me from a speed3 to a WRX.
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Aug 9, 2013 22:10
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Maker Of Shoes posted:Here's the upper mount that failed in mine at 10k miles. That's not a mount, it's a damper. It's not structural. There's usually a real mount hidden directly beneath it.
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Aug 10, 2013 00:32
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Splizwarf posted:That's not a mount, it's a damper. It's not structural. There's usually a real mount hidden directly beneath it. Maybe if someone had told Dodge that, they wouldn't have used it to hold the engine still.
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Aug 10, 2013 00:39
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Splizwarf posted:That's not a mount, it's a damper. It's not structural. There's usually a real mount hidden directly beneath it. All 3 "mounts" on my Altima were pretty much the same style as that. One on the passenger side of the engine, two on the bottom (one at the radiator side, one at the firewall side).
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Aug 10, 2013 00:42
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Splizwarf posted:That's not a mount, it's a damper. It's not structural. There's usually a real mount hidden directly beneath it. 4 "mounts" in total, you can see them in the picture I posted above. 3 on one side, the upper and lower struts, the point on the frame rail (the only one of of the 4 that is filled but it's the softest of the bunch) and one on the transmission. The rail mount (bottom left in that picture) usually starts sagging at around 30k if you haven't taken the slack out else where with dog bones or filling the others. You can call it whatever you like but I know when I go to the dealer to buy a "motor mount" they'll ask me which of the 4 I need and if it's a Neon you should probably just buy all 4. Edit: Also this vvv IOwnCalculus posted:Maybe if someone had told Dodge that, they wouldn't have used it to hold the engine still. Maker Of Shoes fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Aug 10, 2013 |
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Aug 10, 2013 00:44
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Eh, just spray some windo-weld in there and you're good to go, right? Right?
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Aug 10, 2013 02:12
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My volvo 240 told me the motor mounts were broken by no being able to move the shift lever, didn't even have to look at them.
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Aug 10, 2013 04:41
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Farking Bastage posted:The MazdaSpeed 3's are apparently bad to break motor mounts. An employee of mine bought a used Mazda 3, and that exact mount broke 3 days after she drove it home. Must be a hell of an engineering failure.  (loving love KSP)
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Aug 10, 2013 05:39
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Eh, just spray some windo-weld in there and you're good to go, right? Right? Never heard of it but apparently marine urethane does a great job of replacing thrashed mounts. Carteret posted:
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Aug 10, 2013 08:37
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I bought that emote and I drat well like the use it is getting 
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Aug 10, 2013 09:02
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General_Failure posted:Never heard of it but apparently marine urethane does a great job of replacing thrashed mounts. Ive used Sikaflex to build engine mates for my mates ford corsair after we got quoted $200 a mount (3 of) and it only took us about 2hrs to rip a nearly unbroken set out of a wreck at u-pull-it
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Aug 10, 2013 10:50
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As long as whenever it dries its roughly the same hardness I'd think you'd be ok. Search whatever the brand and model name is followed by the word durometer. I believe most engine mounts are in the 70-90 A range.
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Aug 10, 2013 15:38
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, they used the same soft-as-butter mounts that they did in the regular 3 as far as I know - despite the 100hp advantage over the naturally aspirated engine. Even when they're in new condition they don't really work that well. We replace them all the time at the dealership. Thankfully it's extremely easy. Unlike the one underneath...
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Aug 10, 2013 21:15
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Slow is Fast posted:Technically it hasn't failed yet. Hey, I have a valve to match!  (Honda H22 turbo making ~430whp jumped timing)
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Aug 10, 2013 21:42
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I can't look at that valve and not see Michael Jackson.
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Aug 10, 2013 21:43
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I can't look at that valve and not see Michael Jackson. The head behind it reminds me of his nose.
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Aug 11, 2013 02:16
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Localish autox guy got a Volvo 245 turbo.  Thread: http://www.mrheavyfoot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2833
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Aug 11, 2013 02:22
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 10:27 |
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I realized at the beginning of the summer that I don't know as much as I should about cars, so I've spent the summer lurking in AI and watching YouTube videos of engine rebuilds to try and figure out what all those pieces under my hood are for. However, since this thread loves garage-negligence stories, I've got a contribution. Earlier in the summer I had some work done on my Mazda MPV at a local garage that has always given me excellent work and low prices. I had my wheels balanced, and when the receptionist called with my estimate, she said they had zeroed out the wheels on their machine but there was still some vibration. Whatever; I can live with a little wheel shimmy. The first part of the drive home is over slow back roads, but the moment I got the van up over 30, I could tell something was terribly wrong. It wobbled hard, so hard that I pulled over to see if the right rear tire was flat. By this point I was more than halfway home and the shop was closed for the day, so I just drove the rest of the way home, creeping along at about 25 miles per hour. As I said, I don't know much about cars now and knew even less then, so I spent the evening puzzling over what might cause such a tooth-loosening shimmy. The van simply wasn't safe to drive; the wobbling was genuinely scary. Finally I went to bed, having decided that I would call the garage in the morning and ask what might be up. I woke up from a dead sleep in the middle of the night: "I bet the lug nuts are loose." The next morning, I got up at the crack of dawn and went outside. The lug nuts weren't just loose; they were barely on. I used my tools to tighten them as best I could, then called Progressive to make use of my free roadside assistance and have it towed back to the garage. The garage, as you might imagine, was mortified. They fixed the car, delivered it back to my house, and gave me a coupon for a free oil change  .I've seen a couple of pictures in this thread of what would probably have happened to the van if the wheel had come all the way off while I was driving it, and yikes.
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Aug 11, 2013 15:13
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