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fralbjabar posted:Hey, I've got a bit of a "what's normal" question. I've been looking at early (2002-2004 mostly) WRXs and finally found one worth a test drive today and I immediately noticed that it had the shortest and heaviest clutch pedal I have ever found in a car. It had maybe 5-6" of movement before it hit the floor, and took at least twice as much force to move as the clutch in my current impreza coupe. It felt very much like a slightly squishy brake pedal. Supposedly the car was all stock, and it looked stock, but the clutch just didn't feel how I'd think a stock clutch would feel. So what's normal for a WRX clutch, are they all like that or was this screwed up somehow and something I should watch out for in the future? This was a 2004 wagon, I walked anyhow because the turbo started smoking at the end of the test drive. Figured that wasn't a good sign for the overall health and well being of the car. The specification for clutch pedal stroke is 130-135mm (5.12-5.31in), so that's correct. A heavy clutch pedal can mean the clutch is worn and may need replacing soon. Check maintenance records, these cars are getting long in the tooth, so if it hasn't been done yet, plan on having it done.
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Aug 11, 2013 15:46
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Bought a 97 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited from a friend this week, he had been wanting a new car and my 626 died, so he did me a favor and I got it cheap. 230,000 miles, exterior and interior are in great shape. The only minor issue is it has what he called a "lazy lifter," when you start the car in the morning you hear a little knock for about 2-3 minutes and then it goes away. He's driven it with this for as long as I can remember, so I'm not too worried about it at the moment.
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Aug 11, 2013 16:03
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Sure it isn't just piston slap? Very very common on ej25s and nothing to worry about if it goes away.
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Aug 11, 2013 20:11
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Sounds like piston slap, on a somewhat related note. I've been EJ25'd http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tL9ZQq2oRzs
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Aug 11, 2013 20:37
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Bankok posted:Bought a 97 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited from a friend this week, he had been wanting a new car and my 626 died, so he did me a favor and I got it cheap. Are your engine mounts totally trashed, too?
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Aug 11, 2013 22:53
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Neptr posted:The specification for clutch pedal stroke is 130-135mm (5.12-5.31in), so that's correct. A heavy clutch pedal can mean the clutch is worn and may need replacing soon. Check maintenance records, these cars are getting long in the tooth, so if it hasn't been done yet, plan on having it done. The clutch very well could have been going bad, I was having trouble finding the engagement point and it felt like it may have been slipping a little in 4th. How many miles on average are the clutches good for? 125k like I hear for most things?
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Aug 12, 2013 00:23
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Will a Tactrix unit with via USB to an android device running Torque, or will I need the Bluetooth unit off Amazon anyway? Or will it not work at all with an 02 becuase of Can/ODBII fuckery? I haven't been able to find much in the piles of poo poo that is NASIOC and ClubWRX.
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Aug 12, 2013 00:27
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I bought one of these for my '02, and it works just fine.
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Aug 12, 2013 00:30
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fralbjabar posted:The clutch very well could have been going bad, I was having trouble finding the engagement point and it felt like it may have been slipping a little in 4th. How many miles on average are the clutches good for? 125k like I hear for most things? 125K is average, but it depends on how good the driver is too. My 02 had it's clutch replaced at 54K, and I just replaced it again at 88K (bought it with 74K). GrAviTy84 posted:Any tips on how to remove the hoses from a fuel filter when replacing it? I'm having a hell of a time removing them on mine. Spray the end of the line with lubricant like Liquid Wrench. Then twist with a pair of pliers so the lube will wick down the fitting. Cover the sharp edges of the pliers so you don't cut up the lines. Neptr fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Aug 12, 2013 |
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Aug 12, 2013 01:36
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Any tips on how to remove the hoses from a fuel filter when replacing it? I'm having a hell of a time removing them on mine.
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Aug 12, 2013 01:36
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GrAviTy84 posted:Any tips on how to remove the hoses from a fuel filter when replacing it? I'm having a hell of a time removing them on mine. As someone already said, take a pair of pliers, grab the hose, and twist the hose separate from the filter, it should start spinning free and then you can simply pull the hose off.
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Aug 12, 2013 01:45
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GrAviTy84 posted:hoses from a fuel filter In addition to the above, I've had luck spraying a little penetrating fluid and using a small flat head screwdriver to loosen the hose around the pipe. They're still a bitch to take off though.
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Aug 12, 2013 02:19
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Air Oil Separators. There are lots of options and write-ups for the turbo cars and how to hook them up. However, the NA cars are different. How the gently caress do you hook one up.
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Aug 12, 2013 02:48
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So once I throw my money at Tactrix for their cable (and the $8 adapter for the bugeye WRX), do i just plug it all together and route it into my computer, or do I have to buy separate software for tuning and datalogging?
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Aug 12, 2013 03:30
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Basically you are removing the PCV and putting the separator between the intake and all of the crank and valve cover vents. So, same basic process. The vent right at the back of the block and then two valve cover ports I think is all there is. So run a line from all of those places to the can, then the vent would go into the intake pipe somewhere. Plug everything else- the extra ports in the intake and the hole in the manifold.
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Aug 12, 2013 03:34
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Simkin posted:So once I throw my money at Tactrix for their cable (and the $8 adapter for the bugeye WRX), do i just plug it all together and route it into my computer, or do I have to buy separate software for tuning and datalogging? http://www.romraider.com/
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Aug 12, 2013 05:19
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I posted last week about a problem with a 2002 Outback I'd just bought. Thanks guys - it was the CV joint in the end. Since the secondhand dealer had sold it with a RWC*, and Vicroads confirmed that a bad CV joint is something that should have been found on inspection, he had it fixed at no cost to me. I suspect he'd done something dodgy because the CV boot was pretty much perfect even though the joint was hosed, but he didn't try to argue about it. Even though I don't know heaps about cars, the OP of this thread (and the links there) helped me understand enough to reject a few cars when I was looking at them, for stuff like oily coolant, torn CV boots, etc. One I looked at even had the FWD fuse in (and the dude told me it was supposed to be there because it "runs the four wheel drive system"). I wouldn't have known what to look for or where to learn without this thread. The car is pretty awesome, easily the best car I've owned but that's not saying much. *Roadworthy Certificate - I'm in Victoria, Australia, no idea if you have similar things in the USA.
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Aug 12, 2013 08:29
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I'm planning on new wheels, possibly next year for summer tires. Any thoughts on these? http://www.amazon.com/Drag-Gold-Wheel-17x7-5-5x100mm/dp/B003SLERSO Gold is a nice color with SRP, and with a wagon is 225/45 OK or is 215/45 preferred?
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Aug 12, 2013 16:22
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jamal posted:Basically you are removing the PCV and putting the separator between the intake and all of the crank and valve cover vents. So, same basic process. The vent right at the back of the block and then two valve cover ports I think is all there is. So run a line from all of those places to the can, then the vent would go into the intake pipe somewhere. Plug everything else- the extra ports in the intake and the hole in the manifold. Hmm yea, so I was overthinking it. Thanks.
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Aug 12, 2013 16:30
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toplitzin posted:I'm planning on new wheels, possibly next year for summer tires. The measured rim width for 225/45 is 7.5", and 225/45R17 is a hair closer to 205/55R16 compared to 215/45. Plus people usually want a bigger contact patch, only downside is fuel economy.
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Aug 12, 2013 17:37
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Neptr posted:The measured rim width for 225/45 is 7.5", and 225/45R17 is a hair closer to 205/55R16 compared to 215/45. Plus people usually want a bigger contact patch, only downside is fuel economy. Well, the fenders on the wagons aren't as flared and may need to be rolled depending. Per Tire rack: 215/45-17 is a safer tire size for the WRX Wagon. The Wagon does not have the flared fenders like the sedan. Using 225/45-17 may require the rear fender lip to be rolled. Most of the time 225's with ET50 or higher fits without any problem.
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Aug 12, 2013 18:01
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225 will fit on a wagon just fine as long as the offset isn't silly.
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Aug 12, 2013 18:09
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Anything I should know about before getting a 2014 Legacy? Any things I should replace/modify/change once I get it? FWIW going to get the 2.5 sport version.
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Aug 12, 2013 19:10
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Like toplitzin, I'm also in the market for new wheels come next spring. My plan is to buy proper winter tires when the first snow hits and have them mounted to the current wheels, then buy new wheels in the spring and mount my current tires to that. My '07 WRX (Limited if it matters) came with 17" Rota Torques and 225/45-17 Yokohama's. My question is two-fold: Can I measure the rim width/offset/whatever else without taking off the tires? Is it labeled somewhere on the wheel that I'm not seeing? What should I be looking at for winter tires? What's good and what's crap? I've had both Glacier Grip IIs and Blizzaks recommended to me.
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Aug 12, 2013 20:17
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Usually width and offset are stamped into the back the spokes. If I had to guess, 7.5" and +48.
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Aug 12, 2013 20:21
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Offset and width are usually cast in the back of the spokes on the wheel. Usually. drat you Jamal. Same minute and everything.
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Aug 12, 2013 20:21
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Well are they stamped or cast? 
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Aug 12, 2013 20:30
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I've put one season on the General Altimax Arctics and am amazed with how good they are. Especially for the price.
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Aug 12, 2013 21:29
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FecalFajita posted:I've put one season on the General Altimax Arctics and am amazed with how good they are. Especially for the price. Did you get them studded? They're phenomenal tires. I like them way better than my unstudded WS70s.
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Aug 12, 2013 21:31
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If I could have, I would have. No studs in Minnesota. Even with all the ice here I had more than enough grip when accelerating, and there was usually enough braking power to make the front end of the Forester dive. They also did great on i70 in Colorado this winter.
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Aug 12, 2013 21:57
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I just bought a set of Michelin X-Ice3's, and am looking forward to my first AWD winter 
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Aug 13, 2013 01:00
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Bankok posted:Bought a 97 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited from a friend this week, he had been wanting a new car and my 626 died, so he did me a favor and I got it cheap. You should read my thread. Pretty much the same car by my understanding, aside from the obvious one's a wagon and one's not. Mine makes that noise when first starting in the morning too. Along with some other fun noises that you should hope yours does not make.
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Aug 13, 2013 05:47
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Also, I forgot, I came here to ask a question. On my lil' project car above (98 Legacy GT Limited 2.5 DOHC for those too lazy to click), I know I need new head gaskets, and yes I've read the OP. However, I figured I should just go all-out while I have the engine out (since I have to take it apart for diagnostics anyway). So, do you guys have any preferences or recommendations for decent quality gasket sets? Something like this, perhaps? Also, should I get all new head bolts or is keeping the old ones fine? I'm just not experienced enough to know if all head bolts are torque-to-yield or just some. Also, pretty much the same question again but for something like a front/rear end suspension rebuild kit? Do those even exist? I'm researching this stuff now because I'm pretty certain I'm gonna end up doing a lot to it and might just want to get some kind of kit to do it all at once. I'm not looking for any fancy lowering or lifting kits, just some standard OE spec ones. Or whatever may be available.
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Aug 13, 2013 06:09
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OEM headgaskets. 11044AA610. Rest of the stuff isn't as important but I have all the part numbers if you want them. I always ordered all the spcific gaskets we needed separately because there is a ton extra stuff and things you probably won't use in the big kit.
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Aug 13, 2013 06:22
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For the front end just buy most of that stuff from RockAuto: ball joints, tie rods (inner and outer), CV boots (or the axles depending on how hosed they are), strut tops are the big things I can think of off the top of my head. Probably the struts are cooked too - based on the level of overall neglect on that car - in which case pick up KYB GR2s from there/Tire Rack/Amazon, whoever's cheapest. Brakes (softlines, maybe a caliper rebuild kit if it needs it, pads and rotors, fresh fluid) would be my next stop. I think you've dealt with all of this already though. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Aug 13, 2013 |
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Aug 13, 2013 06:26
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Linux Nazi posted:Looks to be the same TSB for the cam positioning sensor on the FA20 in the BRZ, in which case it just goes into a semi-limp mode. I know it's a super-common issue on the BRZ/FRS and yes, you are fine to drive around on it. I'm just quoting this again for context. I took my 2012 Impreza to the dealer to have the code checked out. They want me to come back next week and leave the car with them, saying they have to pull things apart, and take measurements of the cams, and it could take up to 2 days to diagnose. They will be providing me with a loaner vehicle, so whatever they need to do to fix it is fine with me. But does this seem excessive? That's all of the info I got on the phone, and I'll know more when I go to pick it up. edit- Apparently their specialist is away at Subaru school this week, I think they don't have the expertise there right now to deal with it or diagnose it. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Aug 13, 2013 |
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Aug 13, 2013 19:08
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Omglosser posted:You should read my thread. Pretty much the same car by my understanding, aside from the obvious one's a wagon and one's not. Mine makes that noise when first starting in the morning too. Along with some other fun noises that you should hope yours does not make. No other noises or issues with mine thank god, just 2-3 minutes in the morning when I start up. Everything else is great shape. My friend who I bought it from didn't DIY anything, he was pretty religious on upkeep/repairs for the most part. I know in the past year he had probably put at least 2k or more into repairs.
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Aug 13, 2013 20:54
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I took my wife's 2013 Outback out the other day and noticed a strong sour smell when I first started the car and the air came on. It quickly went away, but I asked her about it and low and behold it happens all the time for her. Only when you first start the car after sitting for a while. I am a bit irritated since the car is 2 months old. Is this something that is likely to be covered under warranty or should I expect them to push back? Any ideas on where to start looking if the turn me away?
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Aug 14, 2013 01:34
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Aflicted posted:I took my wife's 2013 Outback out the other day and noticed a strong sour smell when I first started the car and the air came on. It quickly went away, but I asked her about it and low and behold it happens all the time for her. Only when you first start the car after sitting for a while. I am a bit irritated since the car is 2 months old. Is this something that is likely to be covered under warranty or should I expect them to push back? Any ideas on where to start looking if the turn me away? Sounds like a cabin air filter. You can bring it to the dealer, but it's literally a $10 part from your local auto parts store.
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Aug 14, 2013 18:58
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After lots of debate on what to do with the 04 WRX, I've decided to go the hybrid motor route with an open source tune. I can get the shortblock at dealer cost, and I don't even have to pay for it when I get it. Anyone have a good parts list?
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Aug 14, 2013 19:10
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