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I have a Pioneer head unit with two sets of preouts: front and rear/sub. I have 2 amps, one that's 80Wx2@2 ohms that I want to use for the (4 - 2 front, 2 rear) speakers in my truck, and a bigger amp I use for my subs. Currently I have the sub amp hooked up. Is the front preout intended for the speakers, ie not subs? I assume I just plug my smaller amp to the front preouts, and run my speakers to it, leaving the sub amp just the way it is with the rear/sub preouts going to the sub amp? Do I need to run a separate power cable from the battery to each amp or can I run power from the first amp to the second? Same for the power from the head unit, can I run that cable from the first to the second amp? For content, I have 2 JBL 6x9s (100W RMS) and 2 Clarion 5.25" (40W RMS). The smaller amp (Rockford Fosgate Punch 160.2) provides 40W RMS to these speakers, which is a big upgrade from the ~15W RMS my head unit produces. The subs are 2 10" Kenwood (150W RMS) being powered by a 500Wx1 Kenwood amp.
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Aug 12, 2013 20:21
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some texas redneck posted:He's tapping into a switched circuit so that it'll turn on/off with the car, I think he already has a constant 12V. His car, like a lot of newer ones, don't actually run a switched 12V to the stereo; the stereo ties into the car's onboard network (CAN bus or whatever they're using these days) and takes a signal from the BCM to turn on/off. In regards to the above, I'm pretty much decided on buying an Asteroid Parrot head unit (The android one). I'm having trouble deciding between wiring it into the canbus, or wiring it as stand alone and bypassing the vehicles in-dash amplifier. Stand alone would force me to re-run wiring to all 6 speakers. At the same time though, I'd like to run a amp to drive the speakers and then add a subwoofers. I get clipping with the oem Harmon mygig chrysler deck. Thoughts ?
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Aug 12, 2013 20:24
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Anyone heard anything good or bad about the Pioneer TS-A1675R 3-ways?
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Aug 12, 2013 21:04
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Lets break this up.johnny sack posted:I have a Pioneer head unit with two sets of preouts: front and rear/sub. I have 2 amps, one that's 80Wx2@2 ohms that I want to use for the (4 - 2 front, 2 rear) speakers in my truck, and a bigger amp I use for my subs. Currently I have the sub amp hooked up. The front preout will send signals intended for the front speakers. This will be full range and should your HU provide high/low pass filtering, it will apply it to this channel. Important because in your case, you can set it to not send low frequency signals to these speakers which your sub will be taking care of. Second, you will not be sending a signal to the rear outputs on the 4ch amp. Channel 1 and 2 will have an input, 3 and 4 will require either a Y splitter for the inputs. If your amp is equipped with an unfiltered output, you can run another patch cable from the output to the channel 3 & 4 input on the amp. In either case you have no fader control. Fade 100% rear and you have no sound, fade 100% front and it does nothing. This isn't terrible, just know that you don't have that option. There should be a setting on the unit to tell it to use the rear/sub outputs that you are using it for sub. This should also allow you to set the frequency filtering for the sub so that it only see's frequencies it can reproduce. Your amps may also have these filter features, it is your option as to which you use. quote:Do I need to run a separate power cable from the battery to each amp or can I run power from the first amp to the second? Same for the power from the head unit, can I run that cable from the first to the second amp? Run one wire from the battery to the power locations. Use a distribution block to split the power between the two amplifiers. Ground them separately and you are done. I went overkill and ran a 4 Gauge wire to the block and 8 Gauge wires to my amps, there are lots of schools of thought on this, but honestly the carrying capacity of a copper wire is more than most think. Crutchfield has a decent guideline for sizing your wiring.
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Aug 13, 2013 00:17
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Aflicted posted:Lets break this up. Okay, thanks for the answer. For what it's worth, the speaker amp is actually 2 channel, but the idea's the same. I'll just be combining Front-Left + Rear-Left and F-R + R-R. I assumed I wouldn't have any fading if I went this route, either way. 2 more questions come to mind. 1) It seems to me that it would be easiest for me to remove the speaker wires from the harness at the back of the head unit, attach additional speaker wire to those, and run them at the same time as the amplifier RCA cables. Then attach the appropriate Left and Right combined speaker wires to the amp. Is there any reason this wouldn't work? 2) Am I going to need a capacitor, powering 2 amps? edit: lastly, on a distribution block such as this, does the input HAVE to be 4 gauge and the output 8 gauage? Could the input be 8 gauge and you just tighten the screws a little tighter? I honestly don't know about this, but the power cable from my battery currently is 8 gauge. johnny sack fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Aug 13, 2013 |
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Aug 13, 2013 03:42
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johnny sack posted:Okay, thanks for the answer. For what it's worth, the speaker amp is actually 2 channel, but the idea's the same. I'll just be combining Front-Left + Rear-Left and F-R + R-R. I assumed I wouldn't have any fading if I went this route, either way. You can run the speaker leads from the amp to the harness behind the radio rather than running them individually to the speaker locations. If you are going to combine speakers like that, you need to pay attention to wiring in series and wiring in parallel and how that changes the impedance seen by the amplifier. That will affect how much power is actually being provided to the speakers. I always have to go look up the rules on this whenever I'm working with circuits, maybe someone else knows just off the top of their head. You will not need a capacitor for any of this. Capacitors just store energy and release it in quick bursts. It doesn't really help anything in this case. What matters is how many amps your alternator is rated for. If your lights start to dim or flicker then it would be a better choice to get your alternator tested if it is old, and/or replace it with a new/upgraded unit. You really shouldn't have any issue with this though unless your alternator is just barely capable of running your car. The distribution blocks come in all sizes and some even incorporate fuses into them. You should be able to find one that is for an 8awg input with 8awg outputs etc... If the set screw isn't long enough to get a firm purchase on the wire and hold it before running out of threads, then you can't use that block. Generally that is why they rate them for one awg or another.
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Aug 13, 2013 12:03
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johnny sack posted:edit: lastly, on a distribution block such as this, does the input HAVE to be 4 gauge and the output 8 gauage? Could the input be 8 gauge and you just tighten the screws a little tighter? I honestly don't know about this, but the power cable from my battery currently is 8 gauge. In my experience with a block like that, the screws are too short to handle a smaller wire and you have to fill the gap in the block somehow. On the other hand, it's all just one big solid block of metal so there's no reason you can't put the input into one of the 8 gauge holes and leave the 4ga hole unused.
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Aug 13, 2013 17:49
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EbolaIvory posted:So the Buick I went and picked up. Monsoon is all over the place as far as its setups. Sometimes I think they just used whatever they had lying around. IIRC your car will have a pair of woofer only 6x9's on the rear deck and then a separate tweeter module (or coaxial 6x9's bi wired) What most people do wrong is plug a normal set of 6x9s in there to one of the 2 outputs and either get only the low-passed woofer output or the high passed tweeter output, or worse twist everything together.... But if you find a set of 6x9s you can bi-wire or just stick a set of 6 3/4" components on an adapter plate you should be fine. The stock speakers are sometimes weird impedances so you might get a reduced overall output off the monsoon amp, if that happens I'd run an external amp.
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Aug 13, 2013 22:00
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You'll probably think I'm insane for asking this but are there any MP3 / whatever player stereos out there without the need for an always on circuit? I couldn't give a poo poo about a clock. I like the old tape decks / just radios that didn't have any parasitic draw. All I want is an MP3 / ogg player and probably an FM radio. nothing more.
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Aug 14, 2013 08:24
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There's a few dual knob shaft units that will play MP3 via memory card (or have an aux connector), generally cheap. They probably do have a constant connection just to remember which song it was playing, but you could connect both switched and constant to a switched circuit. It would definitely forget what song it was playing, but if you go with a really basic radio, it won't be a big deal. I doubt this exact model (or even brand) is available in Aus, but this has an FM radio and an aux input, plus tape player, but no card reader. You'd need some kind of cheap MP3 player to plug in to it. Something like this would read cards, but no aux input, and without a constant, it would start over. Plus it's a massive pyle of poo poo (I owned a few of their products way back in my HS days.... their brand name is very appropriate). You can probably find something a bit better on your own, but these are what popped up in a quick search. I'm assuming you want something that will cut in the stock cutout as well; I honestly don't know of any single DIN unit that would do what you want.  e: I'd personally go for something with aux in and use a cheap stand alone mp3 player - at least that way you have some kind of display to pick songs. I had a really solid MP3 player that was really close to  plus a micro SD card and AAA battery.. the user interface was decent too, it had a 3 line dot matrix LCD display and a basic set of buttons, and could also function as a flash drive. Doubt you'd find that brand there though (RCA). I bought it as a throwaway, and wound up using it daily for over a year.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Aug 14, 2013 |
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Aug 14, 2013 08:42
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some texas redneck posted:There's a few dual knob shaft units that will play MP3 via memory card (or have an aux connector), generally cheap. The Piles ones in Australia at least on eBay are expensive for some reason. So help me I'm considering Chinese no-namers just because I don't want a CD player because they have been and always will be functionally useless to me. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CAR-STEREO-AUDIO-HEAD-UNIT-SD-USB-MP3-WMA-IPOD-IPHONE-ITOUCH-AUX-PLAYER-/400523438658 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Audio-Stereo-In-Dash-Fm-Receiver-With-Mp3-Player-USB-SD-Input-AUX-Receive-/370876028856 Aux inputs are a pain in the rear end. Useful yet useless. What? Well it requires a lot of loving around for short trips and extra hardware. I can use the tape adapter or my pure forged Chinesium cig lighter MP3 FM transmitter for aux. But the stereo is questionable at best. Crackly pots and a tone dial that cruises along with the volume. On that cig lighter adapter, it has no battery backup but it can resume from where it left off. Not to the second but to the song, but can't do it with read only files so it touches them with something. Forgot to say, my current tape deck is very voltage sensitive too which is a huge pain in the rear end because it fades out at intersections and doesn't like indicators etc. I just want something to listen to some tunes on while I'm annoying people in town.
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Aug 14, 2013 08:58
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some texas redneck posted:They probably do have a constant connection just to remember which song it was playing, but you could connect both switched and constant to a switched circuit. It would definitely forget what song it was playing, but if you go with a really basic radio, it won't be a big deal. He'll also lose any bass/treble/balance/fade settings. What I would do if you're really, really committed to not having a microamp current draw is hook the memory power wire up to a small pack of rechargeable batteries that are also hooked up to switched power with a diode so they are charged when the key is on but only power the stereo memory when the key is off. But of course at this point you realize that you already have a rechargeable battery and it's already hooked up in the same circuit and it has vastly more capacity than a small set of dedicated batteries and you're totally being anal about parasitic draw for no reason.
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Aug 14, 2013 20:13
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Has anyone used this guy? http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-X9500BHS I noticed some of the newer Pioneers feel cheap and flimsy on the face/buttons - wondering if this one does as well since it's higher end. I can't find it locally.
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Aug 15, 2013 00:18
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Mighty Horse posted:Monsoon is all over the place as far as its setups. Sometimes I think they just used whatever they had lying around. Yeah. I've been going over the wiring and I really only want to tear it down once. I think I'm going to bypass the monsoon poo poo and just replace it all. I have to compromise on the radio itself a little but I can live with it. Think the factory wiring will work? Or am I running speaker wire to the doors and trunk?
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Aug 15, 2013 08:27
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blk posted:Has anyone used this guy? http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-X9500BHS I had the 9400 BT for about a year, which was its immediate predecessor. Yes, it felt cheap and plasticy (in fact, it didn't even come with a case for the faceplate, which pissed me off - I always removed it when parking since I lived in dorms at the time), and in typical Pioneer fashion, the user interface was poo poo. The remote wouldn't even work out of the box - the battery was completely dead, despite it being a new model at the time. Also, the X9500 isn't high end, at all - it's 1 step above their very basic stuff (the basic stuff is stuff you'd find in Wal-Mart - some Wal-Marts even sell the 9400 and 9500). It has some higher end features, but it's still a relatively cheap head unit. Nothing wrong with cheap, as long as you know it's cheap. But today's name brand cheap head units are leaps and bounds ahead of yesterday's middle of the road stuff, and the day before yesterday's top of the line. I still have some mid 90s issues of various car audio magazines, the X9500 blows everything in their high end roundup away by miles (and for thousands less), even if you don't factor in today's convenience stuff (like BT). I think the 9500 puts out either 2V or 3V on the RCA preouts, while the higher end Clarion I had in the mid 90s probably put out about 0.5V. That said, the only real gripe I had (once I got used to the menus) was there's no dimmer wire on a lot of Pioneer head units; it had a toggle in the user settings to dim it. It sounded great, and had plenty of options. A new battery got the remote working, I'm guessing it shipped with a defective battery (it still had the plastic thing you yank out to "activate" the remote). Also, it absolutely hated doing the Bluetooth game with my Nexus 4 - it would do A2DP streaming fine, but if I enabled phone call streaming, both the phone and head unit would lock up constantly. I blame that on both LG's lovely BT implementation and Pioneer's lovely BT implementation. FWIW, I paid $120 for the 9400 a year and a half ago (and sold it for ... half? in SA-Mart this spring). I'd expect the 9500 to be in the $100-130 range by now for new, if not cheaper. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:08 on Aug 15, 2013 |
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Aug 15, 2013 10:59
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If I run focal 165 A1 off a vw RCD-510 without crossovers will I break something?
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Aug 15, 2013 19:55
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Honey Im Homme posted:If I run focal 165 A1 off a vw RCD-510 without crossovers will I break something? What exactly do you mean run it without crossover? As in you aren't going to use the crossovers that come with the speakers? That is a size able portion of the sound you are paying for. What car are you going to put it into? Does it have factory tweeters? Usually the factory door speakers have a full range feed and the tweeters just have a resistor to block frequencies. I would definitely wire in the crossovers.
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Aug 15, 2013 21:57
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Honey Im Homme posted:If I run focal 165 A1 off a vw RCD-510 without crossovers will I break something? Are you looking to do active crossover and separate amp channels for the tweeter and woofer? Or do you not have the crossovers? Wiring them together on the same channel of the amp would be a bad idea and sound like poo poo sending low frequencies to the tweeter.
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Aug 15, 2013 22:38
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I bought the speakers second hand and don't have the crossovers. I'm putting them into a vw scirocco. I've tested the speaker and tweeter on one side tonight and it sounds fine. Is it worth buying matching crossovers? I think focal sell them separately.
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Aug 15, 2013 23:50
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It will sound way better with some crossovers. I have a pair from a set of infinity kappa comps I had in my fiat before trade-in that you can have for shipping or a platinum forums upgrade if you don't want to paypal. I'm sure focal wants decent cash for theirs. BosozokuTruck at geeeeeeemail if you want them.
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Aug 16, 2013 01:23
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some texas redneck posted:I had the 9400 BT for about a year, which was its immediate predecessor. Thanks. I bought the Alpine CDE-147BT recently and like it OK except for the fact that it doesn't fully change color to match the rest of the interior. It's advertised as doing so:  But in reality the square source button is frosted blue acrylic, and it stays blue unless it is the absolute pitch black dead of night, when the colored LED behind it doesn't have any reflections to overpower. It really irritates me since I like my illumination to match. I also don't seem to be able to control Pandora on my Android phone from the headunit over BT, but that may be my error, I need to read the manual. I'm going to compare to the Pioneer and see if it does better. The rest of the car audio is stock and I'm going to keep it that way, so I don't have high terribly high standards there. Just needs to sound OK, have good BT/phone compatibility and blend in with the rest of the instruments and stack.
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Aug 16, 2013 02:19
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Holdbrooks posted:It will sound way better with some crossovers. I have a pair from a set of infinity kappa comps I had in my fiat before trade-in that you can have for shipping or a platinum forums upgrade if you don't want to paypal. I'm sure focal wants decent cash for theirs. BosozokuTruck at geeeeeeemail if you want them. Take this deal. You are a good dude Holdbrooks.
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Aug 16, 2013 05:41
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I've got a 2013 f150 with the mytouch system in it.. I don't want to replace the head unit but I do want to remove anything past the actual head unit and replace it with stuff that's actually good. Does anyone know what I'd need to bring the signal from the mytouch to some amplifiers? I haven't done this in a long time but I used to just get some speaker -> line converters and go off that when people didn't want head units. I want to go a little farther than that and get a signal processor but I went to a stereo installation store and they're trying to sell me audison bit one and bit tens.. I don't think I need quite that much overkill but I would like to have some sort of signal processing at the end of the day. What do you guys recommend? My main goal is to have a 2 or 4 channel to run the mids/highs and a monoblock for the subwoofer (so front/back and sub outs would be a plus). Thanks!
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Aug 17, 2013 01:22
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Hey all, I am a total rookie when it comes to installing my own car stereo but I just picked up a 2010 Corolla SE and would very much like to try my hand at giving it a few upgrades. Right now the entire system sound like rear end and I'm thinking I'd like to bring it up to par one piece at a time. Any advice on a decent head unit for this car? I don't want to break the bank and am really only concerned with ensuring that the unit blends fairly smoothly with the dash; no gaping holes between things and whatnot. I currently have a box with two older JL 12 inch subs that still sound drat good, some older kicker 6x9's and couple of decent amps to power them, but for now I really just want to focus on the head unit. If I manage to successfully install that without blowing anything up I'll try the other things. So long story short, what are some good mid-level head units around 150 to 250 out there and should I know anything in particular before attempting this on my own? Any beginner guides on installing them that you know of would be greatly appreciated, and if you need more info that I left out because I am dumb I'd be happy to oblige.
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Aug 17, 2013 15:51
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Anyone have any experience with the fiat, Peugeot and Citroen's connect nav + system? I wonder if I can use the RCA input in the glove box to connect a DVD player. Or replace the head unit and still have the info all on the main color screen?
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Aug 17, 2013 16:58
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Person Dyslexic posted:Hey all, I am a total rookie when it comes to installing my own car stereo but I just picked up a 2010 Corolla SE and would very much like to try my hand at giving it a few upgrades. Right now the entire system sound like rear end and I'm thinking I'd like to bring it up to par one piece at a time. Any advice on a decent head unit for this car? I don't want to break the bank and am really only concerned with ensuring that the unit blends fairly smoothly with the dash; no gaping holes between things and whatnot. I currently have a box with two older JL 12 inch subs that still sound drat good, some older kicker 6x9's and couple of decent amps to power them, but for now I really just want to focus on the head unit. If I manage to successfully install that without blowing anything up I'll try the other things. If you order from Crutchfield they give you a good set of directions for headunits; you might try that. Their filtering system for head unit selection is pretty good too, so you can narrow down by what features you want and compare wattage, etc some there.
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Aug 17, 2013 20:18
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blk posted:If you order from Crutchfield they give you a good set of directions for headunits; you might try that. Their filtering system for head unit selection is pretty good too, so you can narrow down by what features you want and compare wattage, etc some there. Yeah I was looking at them... how is there advice by phone? And thanks.
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Aug 17, 2013 21:31
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Person Dyslexic posted:Yeah I was looking at them... how is there advice by phone? And thanks. I've never used it, but supposedly fabulous - they get high rankings for customer service all around, not just among car audio retailers.
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Aug 17, 2013 22:05
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Person Dyslexic posted:Yeah I was looking at them... how is there advice by phone? And thanks. I've used their tech support service once. It was pretty good. Had a real person on the line in just a few minutes and they seemed to know what they were doing.
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Aug 17, 2013 22:15
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Awesome I'll give that a shot then, would be nice to talk to someone who knows what they're doing. Thanks for the feedback!
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Aug 18, 2013 00:31
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Holdbrooks posted:It will sound way better with some crossovers. I have a pair from a set of infinity kappa comps I had in my fiat before trade-in that you can have for shipping or a platinum forums upgrade if you don't want to paypal. I'm sure focal wants decent cash for theirs. BosozokuTruck at geeeeeeemail if you want them. Thanks for the kind offer but I'm in the UK!
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Aug 18, 2013 04:50
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So my old amp and sub have been sitting in the garage for awhile, I'd like to put them in my current car, but keep the stock head unit (for now). Current car doesn't have RCA outputs on the stock head unit, but the amp has high level inputs (....if I can find the plug), so no biggie there. But I have no idea where to hook up the remote turn on. Accessory circuit? I don't think the stock head unit has a remote or antenna power lead. I know the rear 2006 Saturn Ion 3, original stereo is the GM corporate double DIN that they started using around 05-06 (AM/FM/CD/XM optional/Onstar/aux input). Car also has (active) OnStar, which is partly why I can't really replace the head unit yet - I need a $100 adapter to retain onstar and the retained accessory power functionality. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:00 on Aug 18, 2013 |
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Aug 18, 2013 08:42
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LloydDobler posted:He'll also lose any bass/treble/balance/fade settings. Well how about that. I wrote a reply to this but I guess I forgot to submit or something. Yeah I considered the rechargeable battery idea too and came to roughly the same conclusion. Although it does make me think that a low voltage cutout on some accessory circuits would be a good idea, but they are of course on different circuits so what's the drat point? Been watching eBay for decent stereos. For some reason the prices are sky high right now. I keep trying to use the one in the Niva and although it's a Pioneer it's just a lovely old tape deck now. Crackling, fading in and out, poor sound quality etc. For some utterly retarded reason Australian eBay doesn't have a section for car stereos but it has one for in car DVD players. What? I am getting a little lovely about the available range. I don't want something that's all lit up brightly and distracting or something I need to look away from the road just to bump a track with. I don't care about iThing connectivity and I have no use for a CD player, nor do I want something that plays video. Looking at what's available anything between $25 and $150 is about the same. I'm not going up above that on a $600 vehicle that a 5 year old could break into. Honestly I was hoping for something like the older Kenwood designs which had a display but they were subdued and pleasant to use. I appreciate the help for sure. Unless I find something today I might but a cheap Chinese one for now  e: Bought one of these used on eBay. It'll do for now. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=QM3781 General_Failure fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Aug 19, 2013 |
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Aug 18, 2013 22:56
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I posted before about possibly hooking up my 40w x 4 amp to my cab speakers, with a 250w amp driving my two subs already. Here's the dilemma. On audio CDs, the sound is quite good even when turned up very loud. There is little to no distortion when I turn it up about as loud as I could stand it. However, when I use my iPod as source, with compressed audio files, the volume can't go as loud before I notice distortion, all over the spectrum (highs and lows). What should be crisp double bass becomes muddled and sounds bad on the subs. The cymbals become painful and I have to turn down the treble or volume. This has now raised 2 points for me. First, I don't think it's going to be worth an entire Saturday for me to install this second amp to the cab speakers because I don't have enough quality sound to utilize it. Second, I'm realizing I have to go through all of my CDs again, at least those I listen to frequently, and rip them to better sounding audio files. What do people use, that an iPod can load and play, to get the best sound? Just really high bit rate mp3s or is there something else? My deck only recognizes Apple products via USB so it has to be iPod friendly.
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Aug 19, 2013 18:36
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Does your headunit provide options to change source input volumes? Do you have any EQ settings configured on the iPod? (Not sure if the EQ applies to sound through the dock connector, but worth considering as a test) You could rip the CDs in Apple Lossless or just set the bitrate for MP3 at 320kbps. I haven't played with an iPod or iPhone in a long time so I'm assuming they can't handle FLAC or Ogg Vorbis.
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Aug 19, 2013 18:50
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johnny sack posted:I'm realizing I have to go through all of my CDs again, at least those I listen to frequently, and rip them to better sounding audio files. Before you re-rip all your audio, rip just one and verify that it's the source file that's the quality problem. I use all generic mp3 stuff on a Kenwood deck and even the lower bitrate MP3s sound pretty ok. It makes me think you might have an interface problem or just an output volume problem. But test to make sure. If you rip one and it sounds good then yeah, re-rip.
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Aug 19, 2013 19:33
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Are there any aftermarket in-dash nav systems that have displays & maps anywhere near as nice as these? 
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Aug 19, 2013 22:19
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Are there any aftermarket in-dash nav systems that have displays & maps anywhere near as nice as these? If you have a smart phone you can look at units like the AppRadio 2 or 3 that let you pass your phones applications to them. There are caveats to consider for an iPhone and Android as they require a bit different approach to the same result. Ultimately you can pass google maps and navigation to the screen and in most cases control the app from the screen. People are using AppRadio 2 + the ARLiberator app to basically mirror their Android phone's screen onto the radios touch display. At that point it is your phone on a 7" screen. Even more radios have app modes that allow you to pass apps from your iPhone to the screen and control them. MirrorLink is a technology coming out for Android devices that does what ARLiberator the app does currently only it is supported on any head unit that does mirrorlink. The mirrorlink compatible phone list is quite small right now though. Edit: To specifically address your question, yes you can get good touchscreen head units that have equally sharp looking displays to what you posted, and one of them is apparently using USGS maps and Google for its imaging. Just for fun, I'm going to guess that the first image is from an Audi. The second I'm less certain on, but would hazard that it is a Mercedes. Watch me be wrong on both counts! Aflicted fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Aug 19, 2013 |
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Aug 19, 2013 22:53
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Audi & BMW. Which unit uses USGS / Google maps? I haven't been able to find it. I guess AppRadio is an option that I haven't really investigated - even though I always have my phone on me I'd rather have my car be a standalone deal.
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Aug 19, 2013 23:18
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One of your examples was using google and USGS for the mapping. I don't know of a navigation equipped head unit that does it, but if you are using pass through from your phone its going to be Google maps and navigation.
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Aug 19, 2013 23:47
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