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Mattress Man posted:I just got back from a BMW Ultimate Driving Experience event. I drove a base f30 328xi, currently have a e90 328xi. Really didn't like the regular steering wheel or the non sports seats. The loaded sport line on the other hand was much better since I could tune the steering and chassis settings. Seriously looking at a f31 since the ladyfriend has a kid and nieces/nephews. Note that the suspension doesn't change with the sport/sport+ settings unless you get the handling package. Luckily it's only like $1,000 to get the adaptive suspension and sport steering.
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Aug 17, 2013 21:24
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So I got word from the bank yesterday and I am picking up my 2007 335I on Monday  ! I am buying it from a friend and he has already done an oil change for me and is putting new plugs in it for me as soon as they come in! I am so excited to get it!!
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Aug 17, 2013 23:11
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sean10mm posted:Note that the suspension doesn't change with the sport/sport+ settings unless you get the handling package. Luckily it's only like $1,000 to get the adaptive suspension and sport steering. Yeah I've driven one with the handling package, it makes the car a lot better. I think they gave me the stripper model since I'm 22. Even asked me "do you know how BMWs work?"
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Aug 18, 2013 00:20
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sean10mm posted:Note that the suspension doesn't change with the sport/sport+ settings unless you get the handling package. Luckily it's only like $1,000 to get the adaptive suspension and sport steering. Since when did BMW need to start relying on fancy electronics to make their cars sporty? I expect that from Caddy's, various super cars and so on, but BMW always relied on regular struts and suspension geometry to make their cars handle well.
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Aug 18, 2013 00:53
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Since when did BMW need to start relying on fancy electronics to make their cars sporty? I'm pretty sure they've had it on M cars and various models for a while? And it's pretty nice. Are you posting from an abacus or something? Plus they still have fixed sport suspensions standard on F30 sport/m sport lines.
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Aug 18, 2013 01:16
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sean10mm posted:I'm pretty sure they've had it on M cars and various models for a while? And it's pretty nice. Are you posting from an abacus or something? Posting from the phone. Its annoying with a giant spot in the middle. But I knew the E60 M5 had adaptive suspension, but I kinda figured the out going E90 M3 was just normal. Electronics are nice but gently caress that poo poo later in the cars life.
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Aug 18, 2013 02:03
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Does anyone have a preference for sun shades? Black interior + Texas = hot car.
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Aug 18, 2013 06:52
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Five weeks and $7,000 in repairs later, my e46's front end is like new:  I really missed driving this car.
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Aug 18, 2013 08:24
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Cojawfee posted:Does anyone have a preference for sun shades? Black interior + Texas = hot car. Tint your windows, crack your sunroof, and park your car in a direction that mitigates the sun hitting your dash/windshield directly. Always use a sun shade/dashboard whatever. I moved to an office building without covered parking and I have learned the subtleties of avoiding having your car become an easy-bake-oven. Chinatown fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Aug 18, 2013 |
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Aug 18, 2013 08:25
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bolind posted:Lots of words about the power steering being faulty on his E87. Well, after having sat for two nights the thing started right up, fault gone. Weird.
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Aug 18, 2013 12:15
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Chinatown posted:Tint your windows, crack your sunroof, and park your car in a direction that mitigates the sun hitting your dash/windshield directly. Always use a sun shade/dashboard whatever. I was more asking if anyone had any brand preference. The quarter windows are already tinted, and the door windows are slightly tinted. I mostly just need a decent sunshade for the windshield which is where I think most of the heat is coming through.
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Aug 18, 2013 15:23
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Clarkson's hyperbole is right sometimes, and the electronic suspensions that BMW do really aren't that great. It really is just a button to make it uncomfortable. It might work better with a light set of 18" wheels though, but I didn't want to chance that the EDC would still suck.
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Aug 18, 2013 15:33
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BMW is trying to make something that makes everyone happy and unfortunately that has to include Lexus/MBZ customers that demand a compliant ride on our gorgeous pot-hole filled shitwagon tracks we call highways. If I recall, Clarkson's prob was mostly with that E60 M5 version which was brutal. In theory they still have for pretty much everything from 3 series to X5: 1. Base suspension (still better than most other makes) 2. Sport suspension (thicker sways/more aggressive springs/dampers), always on and sometimes annoyingly so to some 3. Sport adaptive/dynamic whatever (base but with electronic dampers/electronic sways that activate with a switch and do all they can to mimic #2 but not completely since Lexus/MBZ guy doesn't want the full effect anyway. The Comfort/Sport button also controls throttle as well which actually works well while you are warming the car up, etc. I have just the electronic dampers (DDC) on my F10 and it is pretty amazing that when you kick it into comfort on a lovely road (it feels like an Escalade) but when you switch it back to sport you feel the steering tighten up, the throttle response improve and the road feel returns. In some respects this does make a dd car more usable, especially if you have to occasionally cart around people that don't appreciate a stiff spring/damper combo. What most sport oriented folks are doing is spending about $1k for Schnitzer springs and the M5/550d (Euro) sway bars that really get the suspension back where it needs to be while still allowing for some comfort adjustment.
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Aug 18, 2013 17:28
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I'm having some trouble bleeding the cooling system in my E46. I replaced the radiator and thermostat, pulled the engine block drain plug, drained the expansion tank while it was out. Completely empty the system took about a half gallon of coolant. My bleed process is: Let the engine idle until up to temperature with the radiator cap off and coolant starts circulating back from the radiator Coolant level changes minimally, top off with 50/50 BMW coolant and distilled water as needed Get uncomfortable as coolant boils in the expansion tank, turn car off when the temperature gauge needle starts moving from center I have done this four times on separate days with the same results each time. At this point there's just over one gallon of coolant in the system and some of that has to have evaporated off. Even as the temperature gauge rises the electric fan doesn't engage - is this a sign the new thermostat is bad? Possibly related: my blower motor has stopped working at all, so I can't blast the cabin heat during all this. This car has been garaged for a few months waiting to be fixed up and sold, and the battery died (wouldn't take a jump or charge from a trickle charger and tested dead on an Autozone battery tester). The blower motor worked when it went in, and doesn't even make a sound now after the battery replacement. All fuses for blower, heater, and air conditioning are good. Google tells me this might be the blower motor itself or the final stage resistor. I'm leaning towards the final stage resistor, is there any way to test the current one for malfunction with a multimeter? It seems to make sense that without opening the heater lines up I can't get a thorough bleed, but both the final state resistor and the blower motor appear to be in difficult locations.
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Aug 18, 2013 18:54
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Keyser S0ze posted:BMW is trying to make something that makes everyone happy and unfortunately that has to include Lexus/MBZ customers that demand a compliant ride on our gorgeous pot-hole filled shitwagon tracks we call highways. If I recall, Clarkson's prob was mostly with that E60 M5 version which was brutal. Sounds like they fixed it up a bit. I'm curious now because I drove the new M6 and it was in fact Escalade-like, but it was like that all the time. The huge tires gave tons of grip but there wasn't any feedback. And you're right about American roads, we're on par with Quintana Roo in Mexico for road quality. Even the Thai manage to keep their poo poo in better shape.
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Aug 19, 2013 02:42
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Cellular Suicide posted:I have done this four times on separate days with the same results each time. At this point there's just over one gallon of coolant in the system and some of that has to have evaporated off. Even as the temperature gauge rises the electric fan doesn't engage - is this a sign the new thermostat is bad?
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Aug 19, 2013 05:12
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Das Volk posted:Sounds like they fixed it up a bit. I'm curious now because I drove the new M6 and it was in fact Escalade-like, but it was like that all the time. The huge tires gave tons of grip but there wasn't any feedback. And you're right about American roads, we're on par with Quintana Roo in Mexico for road quality. Even the Thai manage to keep their poo poo in better shape. I shouldn't have said "amazing" but instead "adequate". I haven't tested a new M5/M6 but it sounds like the new competition package is going to firm them up a bit. Still as Clarkson said about the F10 M5, it's too fierce for the street and too big for the track.
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Aug 19, 2013 05:38
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Bah, I was literally one day from jumping on a train to buy this sweet E34 540 Touring, then the guy sends me a text last night saying he doesn't want to sell it anyway - after having had it online for a YEAR, recently dumping the price, and adding "must sell now I bought a new car!!!!!!" to the ad. Hopefully he'll change his mind. http://www.bilbasen.dk/brugt/bil/bmw/540i/40-touring-aut/1514764
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Aug 19, 2013 09:15
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Took an early morning drive up in the mountains this morning, grabbed a few cellphone pictures. Would have brought my real camera/tripod but a friend is borrowing it right now     This was also my first drive in the mountains in this car and goddamn. It's no lotus elise, but it's amazing. I'm excited to do some suspension work to tighten it up a bit more but even now it's a seriously incredible car. omgitstheinternet fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Aug 19, 2013 |
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Aug 19, 2013 16:03
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omgitstheinternet posted:Took an early morning drive up in the mountains this morning, grabbed a few cellphone pictures. Would have brought my real camera/tripod but a friend is borrowing it right now :arch: Whatup, new M Coupe buddy? Please keep us in the loop about what you decide to with (especially WRT suspension).
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Aug 19, 2013 16:40
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The more of those I see the more I like them. Nice car!
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Aug 20, 2013 02:02
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I'd just like to reiterate what has been said here about buying used BMWs. There seems to be quite a bit of overlap between E46 and E36 M3 cars showing up here on the cheap (4-6k) but they are all deep deep in maintenance debt. I bought mine last year (knowing that it needed a lot of work) and I'm over $1k just in parts and I'm not even closed to finished. Avoid the neglected cars if you're not handy or expect to splash out in order to not drive around a rattle trap. Service records are worth their weight in gold. Mid-process of my clutch/flywheel, shifter rebuild, CVV, tie rods, LCABs, and complete fluid change. On a positive note, the car is now officially 1/2 inspected (emissions) and will get an unexpected performance bump with a lightweight flywheel as it was several hundred dollars cheaper than a new DMF. 
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Aug 20, 2013 15:11
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Which flywheel did you go with? I've been trying to find something that is convenient for street driving and not too light. I don't need a 7-lb wheel.
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Aug 20, 2013 16:13
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If you have the time and can DIY they are usually decent deals though. To buy every OEM rubber bushing that wears (sub frame, diff, rtab, fcab, swaybars) plus end links and rear shock mounts is 350 dollars. As long as the neglected things are mechanical and not bodywork it isn't too bad to bring one up to snuff. I figure about 1k total for a complete overhaul on my 330ci, maybe 1200 if I need new springs. Not bad for a 5.5k car. I did learn from parting my 328 that the sub frame removal difficulty is over exaggerated. I think a in 2 solid 8 hour days you could do rtabs, diff bushings and subframe bushings. Maybe less depending on corrosion.
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Aug 20, 2013 16:41
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Cellular Suicide posted:I'm having some trouble bleeding the cooling system in my E46. I replaced the radiator and thermostat, pulled the engine block drain plug, drained the expansion tank while it was out. Completely empty the system took about a half gallon of coolant. My bleed process is: E46's have bleed screws just like the E36's, right? are you making sure you're using the bleed screw? Did you read this? http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=689618
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Aug 20, 2013 19:28
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I'm trying to remove my old alternator and am running into problems removing the belt from the pulley. Online sources seem to say that I can use a 16mm socket to loosen the tension on the belt, but I'm not having this happen for some reason. Any insight into doing this? Otherwise it seems like an easy thing. Also, what tools/how is the procedure done for swapping the old pulley onto the new one? Thanks! edit: I figured the belt thing out - now time to try to swap the pulley 8) Sorry - e36 328is. UnkleBoB fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Aug 20, 2013 |
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Aug 20, 2013 20:26
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UnkleBoB posted:I'm trying to remove my old alternator and am running into problems removing the belt from the pulley. Online sources seem to say that I can use a 16mm socket to loosen the tension on the belt, but I'm not having this happen for some reason. Any insight into doing this? Otherwise it seems like an easy thing. Also, what tools/how is the procedure done for swapping the old pulley onto the new one? Thanks! It would probably be helpful if you told us what kind of car it was on.
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Aug 20, 2013 21:22
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You need to put the correct size socket on the tensioner next to the alternator (pry the plastic cap off). Then put a big breaker bar on at about 2-3oclock, and crank it clockwise.
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Aug 20, 2013 23:16
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So i replaced the TPS on my e30 the other night, and I seem to have made things worse not better. The car will idle at ~900 for a few seconds, then rocket up to ~2000 and the check engine light kicks on. I'm at a bit of a loss as to why, and am trying to avoid bringing it into a shop to get unfucked. I was hoping to take care of my leaking valve cover gasket and do a valve adjustment as well this week, but if I can't figure out what I broke from the first repair attempt I'm loathe to just keep wrenching. Can anyone help point me in the right direction on troubleshooting? Its an '87, so I can't even do the stomp test to pull the code, and I don't have one of the readers on hand (But will probably order one with my next pelican order).
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Aug 20, 2013 23:34
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Crustashio posted:You need to put the correct size socket on the tensioner next to the alternator (pry the plastic cap off). Then put a big breaker bar on at about 2-3oclock, and crank it clockwise. Yup, thanks for this! Feel kind of dumb for that. Now to figure out how to remove this pulley. How do I keep the pulley itself from rotating when I try removing the bolt? (I'm obviously terrible at this and should have hired someone to do it for me.)
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Aug 21, 2013 00:15
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As I mentioned earlier my car was acting up on cold start, wanting to stall in first gear for the first minute or so. I decided to try some easy fixes first and threw in a new air filter, the old one was pretty nasty when I pulled it. This seems to of helped, already feels a little bit more responsive and I haven't noticed the car wanting to stall. Letting the car cool down now, I just picked up some MAF sensor cleaner as I have been hearing great results. Hopefully this puts the issue to rest and I even gain a little power back as the can claims. Also got my new composite water pump today can't wait to get that installed in a few weeks when I have a weekend free. The car is started to look good, got it washed yesterday and small maintenance items are really starting to work magic in getting this 17 year old 90k mile beast back in shape.
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Aug 21, 2013 01:39
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UnkleBoB posted:Yup, thanks for this! Feel kind of dumb for that. Now to figure out how to remove this pulley. How do I keep the pulley itself from rotating when I try removing the bolt? (I'm obviously terrible at this and should have hired someone to do it for me.) The bolt doesn't get removed. You are using the wrench to move the tensioner in the direction where it loosens the belt (against it's spring tension). When you move it far enough, slip the belt off of the most convenient pulley and then unload the pressure on the tensioner and remove the rest of the belt. Install the new one the same way, leaving the last part of the belt near that most convenient pulley. Move the tensioner to give you some slack and slip it over the last pulley.
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Aug 21, 2013 02:06
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I'm getting so impatient waiting for a good E46 330i sedan in manual that I might just roll with an 07+ Cooper S because at least these I can find.
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Aug 21, 2013 02:07
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GrAviTy84 posted:I'm getting so impatient waiting for a good E46 330i sedan in manual that I might just roll with an 07+ Cooper S because at least these I can find. My buddy at work just picked one up shortly before I got my M3. They are neat cars for sure, my dad absolutely loves them I'm not huge fan but I can definitely see the draw. I'll have to get a ride with my friend and see how they are in person though.
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Aug 21, 2013 02:13
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voltron posted:Which flywheel did you go with? I've been trying to find something that is convenient for street driving and not too light. I don't need a 7-lb wheel. I initially just got the Sachs clutch kit but when I took everything apart I found that the flywheel was toast as well. I looked around and Gripforce had an OE setup with a DMF+clutch kit for $700ish but they also had a single mass cromoly 15lbs flywheel+clutch kit for $475 so I got that. I just hope it doesn't make too much noise. It's 10lbs lighter than stock but heavier than some of the featherweights I came across. I wanted to keep everything OE as it is now my DD since I dumped the VW. Depending upon which model you have Valeo makes a single mass conversion kit with a 25lbs flywheel that is supposed to be pretty good for the e36 3er but not for the M3. ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Aug 21, 2013 |
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Aug 21, 2013 02:42
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Hey guys. I've got an 07 335i and on my way in to work this morning I had an issue. I was accelerating moderately at maybe 2000 rpm and my gas light (second warning) came on. It came on in conjunction with the amber light that depicts a motor with half of it slashed through. I believe this means "continue at a reduced speed" or something. They came on at exactly the same time; a single *ding* and both lights. No SES light came on. So, I got to my exit and put a half tank of gas in it. No warning lights were on when I restarted the car. I ran the engine up a couple times, but in a 40 mph zone I couldent exactly give it the full business. However, I could hear the glorious whistle of the twins so I know I was in boost. My question is, was the engine light caused by trying to accelerate with low fuel and the car is simply holding my hand, not letting me waste fuel unnecessarily by lighting the motor light? I could see the logic there...
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Aug 21, 2013 15:37
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Could be your HPFP? I believe that was an issue on cars of that vintage.
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Aug 21, 2013 15:44
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HPFP. Low boost. Something else. You need to get a scan tool to read the codes. A half engine light could be a ton of things.
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Aug 21, 2013 16:07
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drat it all. I just had that loving fuel pump replaced in June.
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Aug 21, 2013 17:28
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Anyone have a good mechanic in Glendale, CA for a PPI? May take a mini cooper to one today. I looked up Avus Autosport and they look pretty good, quoted 170bux for a PPI which seems a bit steep to me. Any experiences?
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Aug 21, 2013 18:55
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